The Ted Race Team: Because Racecar

[Half Fast]

And yes, his lines were really pretty bad. In some cases I was hanging back because I was afraid he was going to spin out ahead of me, and I wanted to make sure I had enough space to give myself an out if he did.

Yeah, he got squirrely a time or two. His lines were terrible and inconsistent. It looked to me like he was braking earlier than necessary, but of course I don't know what he had for brakes. I think you could have braked later, though, and been all up his exhaust pipe in the corners, which make have woke him up but also could have scared him into losing control. (An acceptable race strategy but not good for a track night.)

With high speed corners like that, you probably don't need to worry about overheating the brakes. Stay on the throttle until you hear harp music or smell brimstone, then stand on the brakes until you can juuuust barely make the corner.

 

[Half Fast]

Ooh, I could put logos of various cars on the fender like enemies I shot down!

Three or four Porsche badges might make the point...

I knew a guy who had a sticker on his mirror that said "Objects in mirror are Porsches."

 

[SoonerAviator]

Ooh, I could put logos of various cars on the fender like enemies I shot down!

Victory marks just like a WWII fighter, lol.

 

[Ted]

Obviously the Boxter didn't want video on YouTube of a 40-year-old 1st gen RX-7 passing him.

It's great to see that old warrior on a track again. Watching the view out the windshield and hearing that soothing Wankel purr brings back some terrific memories.

I'm very glad of that. Machines like this are more than the sum of their parts.

If you're only seeing speeds in the 90s, though, you could be down on HP. The carb might be hurting you more than you know. I'm not sure if you were getting all you could exiting the turns, but at the end of that loooong front straight you should be getting well up into 5th gear and turning over 130mph, pushing 140. At the end of Sebring's back straight I was typically going 135-140 (calculated; the speedo is way off). Makes me wonder whether you're really getting full throttle, or if something is restricting the flow.

What air filter are you using? The engine wakes up with good air flow. I used a K&N and cleaned it regularly, but there might be something better available now.

That track looks like it would be easy on brakes, so you could probably be going deeper into the corners and getting back to full throttle sooner (but maybe you are and the carb is choking).

That's a good data point. I'm going with the GPS data, which is saying 98 MPH or so. I can't recall what the speedo says at that exactly, something like 120-140 I guess?

But it would make sense that the carb issue on the primaries is hurting me on horsepower overall. More reason to dig into this further. The fact that it wouldn't hit 100 MPH seems like it is low. The air filter is the same K&N that was on the car when I got it from you (which means it probably is the same one you raced with). I wasn't kidding about the salad bowl, I still have that on my list of things to do, which could include a new air filter and should increase flow slightly.

It might be worth making sure the brakes aren't dragging. I used to file and round rough edges off the tabs on the brake pads so they wouldn't hang in the calipers, and I used scotchbrite to polish the caliper pins and I greased them with a thin layer of hi-temp grease. When you come in at the end of a session, jack the car up and spin the front wheels and make sure they're very free. You have to check while they're still hot or it won't tell you anything.

That's another good idea. Next time I'll bring the floor jack with me to see if I notice that. I know the brakes do get hot, but I've noticed zero fade, including on a 100F+ day. I recall that you also rebuilt the calipers between races, which I've only rebuilt these the one time. I could do some work on the carb and then also try to purposely get the brakes as hot as I can on the street and then perform that similar test. The brakes are probably getting to the point where they could use some more attention.

I also think that the Hawk blues in the rear might be too much. I know you ran blacks, but those aren't available anymore - so maybe I should try to find another rear brake pad that's less aggressive. I've managed to get the rear brakes to lock up under certain situations, with capacity left on the fronts.

Anyway, it looks like you're having fun and that's the whole point. Just use less brake and more throttle and you'll go faster!

That's the goal! And I'm trying to get to where I have to let off the throttle or use the brakes even less, which comes down to continuing to turn harder. I have more of the track to learn and more personal driving skill to improve on with that. But if you noticed on those first corners after the main front straight, I slowed down (got from 5th to 4th) before entering, and then was in 4th gear basically flat out the whole way through them. I think I can keep moving in that direction.

Yeah, he got squirrely a time or two. His lines were terrible and inconsistent. It looked to me like he was braking earlier than necessary, but of course I don't know what he had for brakes. I think you could have braked later, though, and been all up his exhaust pipe in the corners, which make have woke him up but also could have scared him into losing control. (An acceptable race strategy but not good for a track night.)

You said more what I was thinking about his driving. My lines aren't perfect, but his were really quite bad. I also definitely could've gotten a lot closer to him in the corners, but that is frowned upon by the officials running the track night (one of the officials outright told me he doesn't personally like running in advanced "Because the *******s in there will get right up on your bumper"). Ok, hint received. I don't want to get a bad reputation. If there were more corner workers, it's possible he might've gotten the blue flag waved at him, but oh well.

With high speed corners like that, you probably don't need to worry about overheating the brakes. Stay on the throttle until you hear harp music or smell brimstone, then stand on the brakes until you can juuuust barely make the corner.

For me I'm pretty sure it's the brimstone I'll be smelling.

And yes, I'm working to head that direction more each time.

 

[Half Fast]

I've managed to get the rear brakes to lock up under certain situations, with capacity left on the fronts.

Yep, that's exactly why I ran the blacks in the rear. A better solution is a bias adjuster, but less aggressive rear pads can do the job. If the rears have been locking, that might be why you've felt you had excessive oversteer. If they lock up, or are close to it, at turn-in, there's no traction left for a side load (traction circle).

Trail braking is a big help to speed once you get it right; you can have 70% of max braking AND 70% of max turn-in simultaneously since the vectors are orthogonal, which means you can carry braking much farther into the corner than you realize. It's all about staying on the perimeter of the traction circle.

But if you noticed on those first corners after the main front straight, I slowed down (got from 5th to 4th) before entering, and then was in 4th gear basically flat out the whole way through them.

If you used 3rd gear in those corners, would you have run out of revs before exiting? Ideally, you'd like to use a low enough gear so that you hit your shift point just as you get the car collected from the exit.

 

[Half Fast]

BTW, one big difference between street cars and race cars: at the end of the track night, those other guys need to drive their cars home. You just need to have the remaining pieces of the car in close enough proximity to one another to get them onto the trailer.

A fully-utilized race car disintegrates as it passes under the night's last checker, so that by turn 1 the driver is sliding on his butt holding the steering wheel and everything else is dust. Whatever is still intact was either over-designed or under-used. (By which you can correctly conclude that I was a failure at getting everything possible out of the car.)

 

[Ted]

Yep, that's exactly why I ran the blacks in the rear. A better solution is a bias adjuster, but less aggressive rear pads can do the job. If the rears have been locking, that might be why you've felt you had excessive oversteer. If they lock up, or are close to it, at turn-in, there's no traction left for a side load (traction circle).

Trail braking is a big help to speed once you get it right; you can have 70% of max braking AND 70% of max turn-in simultaneously since the vectors are orthogonal, which means you can carry braking much farther into the corner than you realize. It's all about staying on the perimeter of the traction circle.

I definitely was doing better at trail braking this past track night vs. previous ones. But I think you're right, since the rears tend to lock first, that's probably part of the issue I'm having. A proportioning valve would be better, especially if I plumbed it so I could adjust in the car. I'll have to do some more thinking on this one.

If you used 3rd gear in those corners, would you have run out of revs before exiting? Ideally, you'd like to use a low enough gear so that you hit your shift point just as you get the car collected from the exit.

If I used 3rd gear in those corners I'd be above redline going into them.

BTW, one big difference between street cars and race cars: at the end of the track night, those other guys need to drive their cars home. You just need to have the remaining pieces of the car in close enough proximity to one another to get them onto the trailer.

A fully-utilized race car disintegrates as it passes under the night's last checker, so that by turn 1 the driver is sliding on his butt holding the steering wheel and everything else is dust. Whatever is still intact was either over-designed or under-used. (By which you can correctly conclude that I was a failure at getting everything possible out of the car.)

That part is very true, and part of why I like trailering it to the track - no worries about having to drive it home (and frankly it would not be a pleasant drive anyway - as you know, that car is a track weapon and lacks street manners or pleasantries anymore). But I do want it to be usable afterwards.

So another interesting data point. One theory I've had about the car is that the old ignition coils might be contributing some, even though I do have spark at all 4 plugs (confirmed as such). There was an Amazon Warehouse deal on an MSD Blaster 2 coil (my favorite high-energy replacement for standard style distributor ignitions). I threw that in the trailing side (no reason, just that was the coil I grabbed). Car immediately started and idled better. No idea what it does beyond that and it still sputtered a bit at revs, I think still being lean, but as you know a lean mixture is harder to ignite and harder on the ignition system.

I'm going to keep an eye out for a second coil on a deal (and might even buy one just because), but I think the next job is going through the carb again to hopefully get more cleaning done on it and hopefully find some extra horsepower before the next track night. Plus adding a few pounds of pressure to the rear tires, and likely also messing around some with the brakes, especially if I put on some different rear pads to do the cheap way of bias adjustment, although I might try running an adjustable proportioning valve... I do have the flare tools.

 

[Half Fast]

A proportioning valve would be better, especially if I plumbed it so I could adjust in the car. I'll have to do some more thinking on this one.

IIRC, there's a short length of hose at the rear between the hardline from the master cylinder and the splitter that goes to the hardlines to each wheel. That hose is the place to plumb in a valve. Just replace it with lengths of hose going to and from a valve in the cockpit. The Wilwood adjuster was the most popular: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...-XPJD8ngIQgnFKk2gaa2QsdLeqteluiBoCjnYQAvD_BwE .

If I used 3rd gear in those corners I'd be above redline going into them.

Then you're downshifting too early, or at least letting the clutch out too early. Select your corner gear based on the exit, not the entry.

I threw that in the trailing side (no reason, just that was the coil I grabbed).

Try it in the leading position. I believe ignition tends to be a bigger issue for the leading plugs than the trailing.

 

[Bill]

Stay on the throttle until you hear harp music or smell brimstone, then stand on the brakes until you can juuuust barely make the corner.

A friend of mine who used to motorcycle race told me he used Jesus as his braking marker.

 

[Albany Tom]

I'm not a race driver, even in pretend, but I will agree that it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is a fast car slowly.

 

[Spring Ford]

A proportioning valve would be better

In case anyone else is curious whether "proportioning valve" is new age sales talk for pressure limiting valve, it's not. It's a far superior device.

No point in me trying to explain it when Wilwood do it very nicely.

https://shop.wilwood.com/blogs/news/how-does-a-proportioning-valve-work

 

[Half Fast]

I can't recall what the speedo says at that exactly, something like 120-140 I guess?

If the speedo was accurate with the original 3.92 rear, the 4.88 should give a reading of 122mph when you’re going 98, ignoring tire OD. Not sure if the tire height is the same or not.

 

[Ted]

If the speedo was accurate with the original 3.92 rear, the 4.88 should give a reading of 122mph when you’re going 98, ignoring tire OD. Not sure if the tire height is the same or not.

Thanks, I wasn't sure what the stock rear was. And yes, that sounds about right, I think 120ish sounds like what I was seeing. I don't pay much attention to the speedo just because I know it's inaccurate and it's the least important gauge in the car while racing.

Ok, I think I've now convinced myself to pull the carb apart. Now I need to see if I have enough parts in stock for another rebuild or if I need to order another rebuild kit, I think probably option 2.

 

[Ted]

Photo from Thursday's track night.

 

[Daleandee]

First time to comment on this thread to say I've been following it and enjoying, learning quite a bit. Thanks for the vids ...

 

[Ted]

First time to comment on this thread to say I've been following it and enjoying, learning quite a bit. Thanks for the vids ...

Glad you've been enjoying it. I need to do some more videos on the car itself, which I've been bad about... I will at some point.

 

[FormerHangie]

I watched most of your video. That fellow in the Porsche should be in the novice group.

Also, too bad for the Fiat driver. I did a track night a few years ago in a rented Mustang (don't tell Budget) and there was a driver there in an older Firebird whose engine seized. I wound up giving him a ride home, it turns out he was a retired racing mechanic, and had lots of interesting stories. It was well worth the extra hour's drive.

 

[Ted]

I watched most of your video. That fellow in the Porsche should be in the novice group.

I definitely agree. It seemed to me like he had more pride than skill, between being in intermediate and not being willing to point me by.

Also, too bad for the Fiat driver. I did a track night a few years ago in a rented Mustang (don't tell Budget) and there was a driver there in an older Firebird whose engine seized. I wound up giving him a ride home, it turns out he was a retired racing mechanic, and had lots of interesting stories. It was well worth the extra hour's drive.

I felt badly for him. However, part of the reason I hadn't started doing these years ago with the E55 Kompressor and then the XKR was that I wasn't convinced those cars would take the abuse well. I was worried about the E55 because it had over 200k miles on it and hadn't gotten a thorough once-over, and I was worried about the XKR because it was a Jaguar.

I suppose now I wish I'd gone and done it a bit more, but I was trying to be nice to those cars, and there's no way around the fact that track time is hard on those vehicles, much moreso than simply blasting from 0-exactly-the-speed-limit-not-over now and then.

 

[Ted]

Oh, and in case it didn't come through, at a couple points I was about yelling "GET OUT OF MY WAY!" at the Porsche.

 

[geezer]

Ted, I was surprised how far you were from the Boxster's bumper you were in the turns. He should have been sweating that you might run out of brakes and bump him. That does influence drivers with high dollar cars.

My son is a driver, and one year he gave me a day at the track for my birthday. It was a BMW club day (He was a member then), and his non BMW car was a relatively slow one, but cornered very well. It had been years since I drove it, so first lap was gentle, and ended with an M3, chip and tires, on my tail, waved him by. I was ever passed again, all day. Always on a BMW bumper by half way around the track, and waved by, regardless of whether they had more speed than I.

Coming into the last turn, I would be right on their bumper, second gear, and nursing throttle, so as soon as they signaled, I was coming by. They might have caught me before the hairpin at the end of that straight, but at the next turn, I was clear, and hunting my next bumper.

Edited to add: Do you have a horn? Blow it a little longer each lap. The corner workers will flag him for sure. It may not be the approved technique, but it can be done.

Top birthday present from him!

 

[Ted]

Ted, I was surprised how far you were from the Boxster's bumper you were in the turns. He should have been sweating that you might run out of brakes and bump him. That does influence drivers with high dollar cars.

I know, I know. For someone who learned to drive in NYC, I was giving him a lot of space.

Mostly I was concerned with him losing control and not being able to avoid him.

 

[Ted]

Managed to find another deal on an MSD coil. So both leading and trailing plugs will have high powered spark, which can only help things.

The carb rebuild kit ought to show up sometime next week. I probably won't get to doing anything with it until the following, but the next track night isn't until the 15th, so I've got a bit of time to get that done.

I'm debating if I want to do anything with the rear brake pads this time or not. My thought is probably not this round, I want to see if I can't get the engine running better and focus there, and then consider further if I want to do anything brake related on that side. A proportioning valve is really the right thing to do, if I do anything.

 

[Half Fast]

....and then consider further if I want to do anything brake related on that side.

An easy change would be to go pick up whatever cheapo rear pads you can get at AutoZone or PepBoys. They're sure to have less effectiveness than those Blues and that might be enough to see if it helps, even though it won't be the ultimate answer. I agree a valve would be best.

 

[Ted]

An easy change would be to go pick up whatever cheapo rear pads you can get at AutoZone or PepBoys. They're sure to have less effectiveness than those Blues and that might be enough to see if it helps, even though it won't be the ultimate answer. I agree a valve would be best.

I'd had that same thought as well. I'll think about it between now and the next track night.

 

[Ted]

I just signed up for the next track night (one week from tomorrow). I’m hopefully going to have time to go through the carb first, but no guarantees. Other than the potential to change the rear pads to something less aggressive to test brake balance a bit and throwing a little more air in the rear tires, any specific changes the group wants to see? This is especially relating to the videos. I think the camera location is about as good as I can do, but happy to consider changing it up.

The main change from last time will be the MSD ignition coils.

 

[Half Fast]

Do you have MSDs on both leading and trailing now?

If you’re going to fiddle with tire pressures, chalk the tires and see what sort of rollover you’re getting.

If possible, weigh the car. Get the corner weights while you’re at it. You might also re-check the alignment; excessive toe-in might be robbing you of straightaway speed.

 

[Ted]

Yes, MSDs on leading and trailing now. Good thought on the toe in, I’ll check that.

 

[Ted]

Tomorrow my plan is to be focusing on the RV, pulling the generator. If I'm exceedingly efficient at that and have time to go through the carb, I might do that. Otherwise I think I will just leave it be, maybe throw in some Berrymans to see if that helps clean things out while I'm driving on Thursday. Part of what I like about this is my preference to change one thing at a time, and see how that seems to help with engine performance.

My focus will be on the toe and maybe also go through the brakes and try to make sure the pads and sliding pins aren't binding and potentially causing me issues. Looking yesterday, there is definitely a significant amount of toe out and I would suspect that's hurting me on the straights.

Let's say the goal for this track night is to get over 100 MPH on the front straight (since that seemed to be my wall) and see if I can get a lap under 2:10 (best being 2:11 and change last time). Rear tires I want to start off trying a bit more air than previous as I think I haven't quite gotten the pressures ideal there for maximum performance/best times.

 

[Albany Tom]

I am a little tired, and read the above as "Ted's going to work on the RV, and see if he can get it to over 100 MPH on the front straight". And I thought "Ted's lost his mind!". Then I read it again....but now I'm wondering how the RV would do at the track.

 

[Ted]

I am a little tired, and read the above as "Ted's going to work on the RV, and see if he can get it to over 100 MPH on the front straight". And I thought "Ted's lost his mind!". Then I read it again....but now I'm wondering how the RV would do at the track.

The fastest Class A RV at Bonneville hit 122 MPH.

Yes, I have a new goal.

 

[Ted]

I did get a little shop time today and among other things I got the alignment better set on the RX7. It was significantly toed out so I’m sure getting it closer to 0 toe should help, and maybe get the steering wheel closer to centered if I get it right.

 

[Ted]

Last night was my third track night of the year, and the first one where I got to stay for all three sessions (past two I had to leave after two sessions because the kids had school the next day - school is now out for the summer here). It was also the hottest track night of the year so far, with temperatures right around 90, cooling off to 85 by the third event. That track feels hotter than whatever the temperature says it is.

My big changes for this session were MSD coils to replace the (really old... maybe original?) coils in there and I made the toe more neutral vs. significantly toed out. I didn't flush the brakes or do much else for regular maintenance. I also increased the tire pressures by a few psi as I felt like what I had in there was a bit on the low side.

I went into this with two goals: Get a lap time under 2:10 (previous best was 2:11.60ish, scroll up for the exact time) and a top speed on the front straight over 100 MPH (previous best 98).

In the first session I had a best lap time of 2:10.18. First sessions are the slowest ones since you're getting back into the swing of things (at least I am) and the car is getting up to temperature. So given that, that was very promising. However my top speeds were slower on the front straight, around 95, undoubtedly owing in part to the hotter temperatures hurting my already anemic power output. Still, that provided hope. I felt like I'd gone a bit too high on the tire pressures and backed them off a bit, to 35 front/38 rear (hot).

The second session once again had my proverbial brick wall of around 95 MPH, but the most important goal was achieved: 2:09.19 lap time, a new best, and my lap time goal achieved - and beaten significantly, since it wasn't a "just barely" under 2:10, but solidly under 2:10.

The third session had a best lap time of 2:10.24, but on one lap I hit a new best on the front straight of 101 MPH, achieving the second part of my goal. I was playing a bit with my racing lines on the car, going with earlier vs. later apexes, having now gotten the track dialed well enough in my memory that I've got more solid markers for these things.

The brakes are clearly in need of some attention and so I will need to do that before my next track night, and of course the carb still needs attention. But this tells me there's more speed in the car. Each session I've been tweaking things a bit, and going a bit faster. I'm learning and gaining more confidence with the track, going full speed over the slight uphill on the front straight (@Half Fast that is also undoubtedly lowering my top speed vs. what you'd expect, as the front straight does have a bit of an uphill with it).

I also tested to see if the brakes were dragging when I stopped after my laps. They aren't, they're working as intended.

Little tweaks, here and there, finding tens of a second adding up.

 

[SoonerAviator]

Any Porsche owners getting in your way this time?

 

[Ted]

Any Porsche owners getting in your way this time?

Nope, that guy wasn’t there last night. I forgot to mention I did actually pass a few cars (exciting!). There was one guy in a newer Miata session 2 who was being a real *******, right on my bumper and weaving around. I saw him fine, we just weren’t in a passing zone. Didn’t see him after that so not sure where he went, hopefully he got a talking to.

Otherwise everyone was quite civil.

 

[Half Fast]

...going full speed over the slight uphill on the front straight (@Half Fast that is also undoubtedly lowering my top speed vs. what you'd expect, as the front straight does have a bit of an uphill with it).

Yeah, that could do it. Being from Florida, the car has never seen a hill before and it's probably a little bit frightened.

BTW, did you still have the Blues in the rear brakes?

 

[Ted]

Yeah, that could do it. Being from Florida, the car has never seen a hill before and it's probably a little bit frightened.

Fortunately, Kansas hills aren’t anything to be scared of.

BTW, did you still have the Blues in the rear brakes?

I do. I think I’m just going to put a proper proportioning valve in so I have the ability to adjust it from the drivers seat.

 

[jsstevens]

I thought Kansas hills were just a gentle slope from east to west.

 

[Ted]

I thought Kansas hills were just a gentle slope from east to west.

We have a few other irregularities here and there.

 

[Half Fast]

I think I’m just going to put a proper proportioning valve in so I have the ability to adjust it from the drivers seat.

Yep, that's the best answer. You'll be able to dial it in for track conditions, like a little more to the rear when the track is wet.

Did you try letting it rev higher this time?

 

[Ted]

Yep, that's the best answer. You'll be able to dial it in for track conditions, like a little more to the rear when the track is wet.

Did you try letting it rev higher this time?

I did, I was more willing to let it go to or past 8k. I’m not sure if that contributed to better lap times, at least not significantly. The bigger thing was not upsetting the car mid-turn with a gear change.