Yeah, the TSIO360-MB1 is the one you want but be prepared to pay....
Yeah, you aren't getting one of those for $50k...not an airworthy one....
Yeah, the TSIO360-MB1 is the one you want but be prepared to pay....
When I move back to Colorado, I'm getting a 231 with the better turbo conversion.
Maybe Greg and a someone else will go in on a really nice one with me?
Yep, nothing safer than a L/A. Just another everyman's airplane. Never hear about anything bad happening to those darts. F-100 Sabres are going pretty cheap too.
I'll start buying lotto tickets right away!
Short-body M20E ("Super 21", "Chaparral", 1963-74: snug, simple speedster);Which Model had the fuel injected IO-360?
L/As do require attention as a pilot, you can't be lax or lazy in your flying. You better know the plane by feel as well as the numbers, you find low energy by stick feel, not ASI. It is a plane that can turn around and bite you a new a--hole faster than you can say WTF. The MkII tail settled a lot of issues with them. That said, there are plenty of people who fly them safely, and I think Jesse would be just fine in one.
I couldn't be comfortable in one that somebody else built, as I've seen too many problems that showed up well after construction was completed. And since I couldn't build a soap-box racer by myself, they are pretty much NWJ's here. Do they all crack, or just some of them?
The cost of maintenance is higher than any other aircraft because mechanics hate working on them.
If you bend the gear it will be more expensive to repair than any other retract. and the line guys can bend the gear pretty easy.
Add 250+ to the annual for a retract test, and gear check.
Constnt speed prop to maintain.
behind the panel repairs or instrument replacement is a night mare.
I don't know a single A&P that wouldn't rather own a Bonaza.
BZZZT, wrong! Yes, resealing the wings is a PITA and is expensive. But you CAN get a guaranteed reseal job from one of several specialty shops. The bladders eat useful load and are prone to chafing. When I had a M20J, I went the reseal route and, three years later when one small seep started, the shop that did the reseal fixed it free, promptly and without complaint.The "proper" fix is to get bladders installed, which we did, to the tune of $11k.
The 201 is slick enough that if you are on short final gear up you simply cannot go slow enough without sticking the nose way up in the air. The trim change that comes with gear extension is similar to what other airplanes get with flap extension. In the 201, hit the gear down and the nose down electric trim at the same time, and they run close enough to the same speed that the nose just puts itself in the right spot without you even having to think about it. Plus the gear lever in a Mooney is up high, right in your face. It's a great combination of attributes. Gear up in an Arrow, I can understand. Gear up in a Mooney ... not so much.The only thing I don't like about Mooney is the retractable landing gear. This isn't Mooneys- I'd feel the same way about any retract. I'm concerned I'd leave the gear up on landing. Considering that I sometimes forget the GUMPs check in a Cessna, I think it is a real fear.
Still wondering what made a Mooney the perfect airplane for Jesse's needs.
That would basically be a 252 (aka Encore in the later model years).When I move back to Colorado, I'm getting a 231 with the better turbo conversion.
BZZZT, wrong! Yes, resealing the wings is a PITA and is expensive. But you CAN get a guaranteed reseal job from one of several specialty shops. The bladders eat useful load and are prone to chafing. When I had a M20J, I went the reseal route and, three years later when one small seep started, the shop that did the reseal fixed it free, promptly and without complaint.
My log books and every invoice from 5 years of operation of an M20J are open to anyone. Tom, your posting is ridiculous and a disservice to anyone considering buying a Mooney.(IMHO, of course)
That would basically be a 252 (aka Encore in the later model years).
Everything necessary.What did you have done in 5 years?
Did you replace the rubber donuts in the gear?
Did you have a bent nose gear (towbar over extend) replaced?
what did you pay for an annual? with retract inspection included?
The hours to do any thing on a Mooney, is higher than any aircraft I can think of..simply because there isn't room to do anything.
Everything necessary.
Yes
No
$820 to the IA plus a couple of hundred in parts this year; yes
Balony
For example, up through the early 201s, the belly had about 327 inspection panels held on by 192 screws each. Eventually, Mooney gave the belly one big inspection panel.I was under the impression that access for maintenance was drastically improved in later models compared to the earliest ones. WRT getting at the dirty side of the instrument panel the same is true of Bonanzas.
For example, up through the early 201s, the belly had about 327 inspection panels held on by 192 screws each. Eventually, Mooney gave the belly one big inspection panel.
Still wondering what made a Mooney the perfect airplane for Jesse's needs.
Bonanza's are a terriffic airplane except for the fuel burn, and if you want to know what a part cost's just weight it and and convert to the London metals market for the current price of gold.
It's not just harsh, it's wrong.Well, I am a huge Mooney fan. However, that is a little harsh on the Bo. You can throttle them back, still get close to Mooney speeds (depending on the model) and burn 12 GPH. Beech's are well built. The whole parts thing is overblown, IMHO. Yeah, parts are expensive. Its an airplane and a darned good one. EVERYTHING is expensive.
It's not just harsh, it's wrong.
Flown correctly, a Bonanza will do 168 knots on 11.7 gph. That's the worst case; I've seen better. It's about 20 knots faster than most Mooney's and the fuel flow isn't that different. Parts are more expensive, but they also last longer.
Buying a Mooney isn't about fuel burn. The Bo and the Mooney happen to be the two most aerodynamic airframes around. Buying a Mooney is about sacrificing some speed and room for a much better price.
-Felix
It doesn't vary that much with model year and atmospherics. Mostly, WOT, 20 dfLOP, 10,500', V35A with the factory NA IO520. You can fly at peak at that altitude, too, for slightly better speeds. The -550 is slightly more efficient, so the numbers are a little better. The -36 models are a few knots slower. Interestingly, given the same fuel flow, the -360s are less efficient than the -550s.Which Bo, what weight, atmospherics and power setting provides those numbers? I've got a POH right here by the table.
Buying a Mooney isn't about fuel burn. The Bo and the Mooney happen to be the two most aerodynamic airframes around. Buying a Mooney is about sacrificing some speed and room for a much better price.
-Felix
It's not just harsh, it's wrong.
Flown correctly, a Bonanza will do 168 knots on 11.7 gph. That's the worst case; I've seen better. It's about 20 knots faster than most Mooney's and the fuel flow isn't that different. Parts are more expensive, but they also last longer.
Buying a Mooney isn't about fuel burn. The Bo and the Mooney happen to be the two most aerodynamic airframes around. Buying a Mooney is about sacrificing some speed and room for a much better price.
-Felix
I couldn't be comfortable in one that somebody else built, as I've seen too many problems that showed up well after construction was completed. And since I couldn't build a soap-box racer by myself, they are pretty much NWJ's here. Do they all crack, or just some of them?
If you're talking finish cracks, yes, they all do, it's because the substrate has a higher modulus of elasticity than the finish coat so you end up with fine checking and cracking in the paint or gelcoat. Ultrasound instruments are available relatively cheaply now so checking composite structures is not as difficult as it was. As far as repairing anything you don't like, it's quite a straightforward process to cut out scarf and replace the material, not much different from scarfing and splicing a Dutchman in a wood spar that gets a spot of rot.
brad, ive just got a few hours in a comanche. a 250 version with the rayjay turbo. cool airplane. pretty roomy inside and good performance. i liked the way it handled. i think it'd make a good airplane for hops up to 6Y9.
If you're talking finish cracks, yes, they all do, it's because the substrate has a higher modulus of elasticity than the finish coat so you end up with fine checking and cracking in the paint or gelcoat. Ultrasound instruments are available relatively cheaply now so checking composite structures is not as difficult as it was. As far as repairing anything you don't like, it's quite a straightforward process to cut out scarf and replace the material, not much different from scarfing and splicing a Dutchman in a wood spar that gets a spot of rot.
What are the planes made of? Finish coat? Are the materials different than those used in fiberglass boats? I saw only a few gel cracks in my sailboats and they used to take a pounding. Why would the plane show more gel cracks than the boat (assuming the same materials)?
As you mention, gel cracks are easy to fix- I'd rout them out, fill them (color match from the manufacturer), and sand with progressively finer wet & dry paper until the repair disappeared.
Plus, you're close to Webco in Newton.
Trapper John