What is it?
What does that magic number really mean?
an arbitrary number which means you can't put certain planes on a 135 ticket or export them to certain countries without doing expensive and unnecessary work to them first.
What is it?
What does that magic number really mean?
It means the closer to the number that your engine has achieved hours in service, the lower the offer you can expect to receive.
It's what the buyer of a plane looks at and calculates how long it's going to be before he "needs" an overhaul. While I wouldn't be scared to run an engine past TBO, especially had I been the one who's been flying behind it for the past 1700 hours. I'd probably consider it mandatory when buying a plane near TBO, if for no other reason than my fear of the unknown. If I bought a plane with an engine near or past TBO, a MOH was figured into the purchase price and will be done soon after the purchase.
I've never been able to find out. Is it a B-10 or a B-90 or something in between, or something else altogether? How is it determined?
Without that kind of information the number means absolutly nothing.
I've worked at enough engine manufacturers to have an idea that aviation engine manufacturers probably aren't any different. I've seen advertised parts life predicated on B50 failures when the part was first made, magically evolved to B10 failures, between the 1970's and the 90's. Nothing changed except the marketing.There again, that is a result of the number, how was the number derived.
Rusty, what if that engine had been overhauled to service limits prior to your 1700 hours of happy flying?
Would you go past TBO?
TBO is a number of hours that the manufacturer has determined that a new engine can be run and all parts in that engine will meet service limits.
That is why 43.2 is written the way it is.
Ask your mechanic which he would rather buy, an engine that has 1755 hours TT (on a 1800 TBO), or an engine that has 4500+ hours and 1750 SMOH.(on a TBO of 1800)When I lived in MT, I trusted my A&P/IA. He flew right seat in the soup with me over the montana rockies, he's been an A&P/IA/CFII for nearly 4 decades, does his own engine overhauls and had nary an engine problem during that time, on engines that he personally had MOHed 3 times. If he says it's time for an overhaul, it's time, if he says it can go another 200, it can go another 200. Unless it's him telling me or someone else I might gain that much trust in over the course of 5 years, we're overhauling near TBO. Maybe it's just me being overly cautious, but it's what I'd have to do to not worry. I may be irrational, but i'm your typical buyer.
And so? What do we know now that makes any difference compared
to what we knew before?
not enough information. If it's a lycoming I'd base my decision on the decade the crankshaft was forged.Ask your mechanic which he would rather buy, an engine that has 1755 hours TT (on a 1800 TBO), or an engine that has 4500+ hours and 1750 SMOH.(on a TBO of 1800)
Ask which engine he would expect to buy more new parts for.
all engines are a guessing game until you open and inspect. That's why you need to have a collection of other engines to pull parts from. But you know that and are trying to make a point that escapes me.I can see you do not understand the real meaning of TBO, and thus drag the thread off topic.
a first run engine will have parts in it that can be returned to service with minimal rework. Any other engine will be a guessing game after you open and inspect.
That depends upon what you knew before.
Good stuff Tom, I appreciate the info.
I would pick the first run engine any time over the one over hauled 3-4 times.
However, in the experimental world there are several engine overhaul shops that have exceptional reputations for rebuilding engines from parts they themselves inspect and approve. I have flown many hours behind some of these engines (Aerosport for one) that has been amazingly smooth, reliable, and trouble free. Their reputation in the RV world is second to none.
Check out their website. http://www.aerosportpower.com/
I know Bart & Sue, owners and they are top knotch for tech info and builder assistance.
I can see you do not understand the real meaning of TBO, and thus drag the thread off topic.
a first run engine will have parts in it that can be returned to service with minimal rework. Any other engine will be a guessing game after you open and inspect.
That's the result, how did the manufacturer arrive at that number?
When I was an Engineer in the USAF, turbine engines used to have a TBO. We could overfly it by 10% but it was a "hard" number that required pulling the engine and shipping it back to the Depot for overhaul and was based mostly on ignorance and superstition with a pinch of real information on service experience thrown in. GA Piston engines follow the same approach AFAIK.
The right engine realistically could have run probably another few hundred hours, but there's not much point in splitting the engines like that.
Not being a twin guy, why? Seems like it'd be easier on cash flow to have them split, as long as they're producing correct power. Is it the down-time of doing it more than the split itself or?
Just curious. Won't ever really be a factor for me.
What is it?
What does that magic number really mean?
That's really not the same thing. While it's true that a WD and ND lycoming are interchangeable as far as legality to install, in reality the baffling won't fit. It's not a drop-in change like the continental heavy vs light case.Lycoming has a similar comparison with the flat tappet vs roller tappet and wide deck vs narrow deck engines.
I can see you do not understand the real meaning of TBO, and thus drag the thread off topic.
a first run engine will have parts in it that can be returned to service with minimal rework. Any other engine will be a guessing game after you open and inspect.
We decided at 2100 hours (400 past TBO) that the 310's engines were time. We based it on the following:
-Oil pressure in cruise had decreased for both engines (bottom of green where they used to be mid/top of green)
-Compressions dropping on a number of cylinders
-Left engine having a decent amount of oil coming out of the breather
-Poor starting characteristics for left engine
We could have pulled and done a few jugs on the left engine and gotten some more time, but with the lower oil pressure, didn't see any benefit there. If oil pressure was good and we weren't seeing the oil coming out of the left engine, we would have kept running the pair. The right engine realistically could have run probably another few hundred hours, but there's not much point in splitting the engines like that.
A material change in oil pressure would be a big red flag for me.
That's really not the same thing. While it's true that a WD and ND lycoming are interchangeable as far as legality to install, in reality the baffling won't fit. It's not a drop-in change like the continental heavy vs light case.