My plane has always been a touch off on the tachometer, about 100RPMs to fast, but recently it has gotten more aggravted - About 300RPMs high on the tach. It's not a pressing issue, but it is annoying. Is there any way to fix this?
My plane has always been a touch off on the tachometer, about 100RPMs to fast, but recently it has gotten more aggravted - About 300RPMs high on the tach. It's not a pressing issue, but it is annoying. Is there any way to fix this?
That explains why the cruise numbers you've told me seem too low.
I believe it is cable. I'll take it to my mechanic tomorrow and see what he thinks
binding cable will make it jerky, not slow or fast.
And his TT is high too.
TT? Total Time?
?????the tach is also an hourmeter which bases its time on total revolutions. The hourmeter isn't affected by the magnet spacing as it is directly geared to the cable drive on cable type tachs. So based on that his TT shouldn't be affected by the rpm error unless he's changing rpm based on the tach.
?????
At a given throttle setting, he's the tach is recording more rpm than actual, hence he's getting more hours recorded than he should.
No, the error in the system comes PAST the counter wheels. the flow is:
cable->shaft->wormgear driving counter wheel-> drive magnet->calibration gap-> couple magnet->shaft with perpendicular "clock spring"->shaft through the face-> needle. The error is adjusted out in the calibration gap and comes from the needle side of it.
That is the basic format for every cable driven instrument of that type, speedometer or mechanical tach.
Gonna swap tachs sometime this week, and see if its the tach or something else.
If that doesnt work I'm going to have an electric one installed
Could you explain, perhaps in better words, as to why an electric tach is "yucky"?BEEP BEEP, Bad mistake, electric Tach is yucky....
get a new mechanical tach and have it set at the TT of your aircraft/engine.
Could you explain, perhaps in better words, as to why an electric tach is "yucky"?
most engines will not hold a steady RPM so the electronic tachs will cycle the numbers too fast to get a good mag reading, and they are short lifed.
I have an EI tach with LEDs around the outer edge, for an analog presentation, and digital in the center.
The resolution of the digital tach is filtered to 10 rpm, to prevent the numbers from constantly changing.
For mag checks, you press the two buttons simultaneously, and it resets the rpm to zero. Flip to a mag or pull carb heat and it shows you the drop from the zeroed rpm.
And when you are required to turn off the electric power in an emergency?