Subaru being a Beeeotch

Thanks guys, you all jinxed me.

The battery on my '13 Outback just crapped out this morning. 4 years 10 months on a 5 year battery.

I bought the biggest battery I could fit in it. It starts now..!!!:yesnod::yesnod::yesnod:
 
Zeldman said:
Thanks guys, you all jinxed me.

The battery on my '13 Outback just crapped out this morning. 4 years 10 months on a 5 year battery.

I bought the biggest battery I could fit in it. It starts now..!!!:yesnod::yesnod::yesnod:
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Did they prorate the two months on the warranty? ;-)
 
mondtster said:
There are plenty of production vehicles with wide band o2 sensors these days. Where do you think the ones that all the aftermarket sensor kits come from? ;)

Running off look up tables with no feedback from an o2 sensor in open loop mode can be plenty accurate, no wbo2 needed. The engineers know how much air is going to be moving through the engine at different load points and can inject an appropriate amount of fuel without using a sensor to adjust. When in open loop under heavy load the fueling goes rich for the same reasons we run aircraft engines rich under heavy loads.

Subaru has used plastic intake manifolds, at least back as far as 2005 with the Legacy GT. The '08+ WRX has a plastic intake as well. I haven't looked at the F series engines for a while now but I think they have plastic intakes too.

For the oil leak, I'd start by looking at the turbo oil drain line or maybe a right side valve cover. Those both sit right above or near the exhaust.
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Thanks for the advice. Valve covers have been checked, and they're fine. I'll check the turbo line.

Interesting that WBO2 has become more common. I hadn't looked into it very recently. I had thought most in the aftermarket were from test and measurement rigs, not actual production cars. However, I know my car and @denverpilot 's certainly don't have it.
 
denverpilot said:
The oil filter location looks incredibly stupid. LOL.
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I thought it looks easy to replace. Drain the oil, loosen the filter. Have a beer, then replace drain plug, unscrew filter. Throw the used filter away, grab another beer. Wipe up any mess in the nice wide ring with a lip under the filter, screw new filter on, start pouring in oil (under the filler cap, not into the filter). Have another beer. Start the car, it's easy to check for leaks, you don't even have to crawl under it again. Reward yourself with another beer.

If you think this is awkward and messy, you should try changing the oil filter on my Mooney. I'll even provide the ladder for you to stand on. :) You provide your own colorful language and rags, and we'll split the beer when you get finished. If it's your first time, I'll give you a place to stay cause you won't get done in one afternoon.
 
Hank S said:
I thought it looks easy to replace. Drain the oil, loosen the filter. Have a beer, then replace drain plug, unscrew filter. Throw the used filter away, grab another beer. Wipe up any mess in the nice wide ring with a lip under the filter, screw new filter on, start pouring in oil (under the filler cap, not into the filter). Have another beer. Start the car, it's easy to check for leaks, you don't even have to crawl under it again. Reward yourself with another beer.

If you think this is awkward and messy, you should try changing the oil filter on my Mooney. I'll even provide the ladder for you to stand on. :) You provide your own colorful language and rags, and we'll split the beer when you get finished. If it's your first time, I'll give you a place to stay cause you won't get done in one afternoon.
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Two issues I can see with the location, and they both have to do with the anti-drainback valve.

If the valve is working, the filter should be full of oil. That ring doesn't look big enough to catch it all, though it may be designed to allow it to drain back into the engine.

If the valve fails or leaks, the filter will empty after the engine stops. That means a couple seconds extra between starting the engine and actually getting oil pressure.

Neither is the end of the world. It certainly does make it convenient.
 
I drain the oil first, then use 3 or 4 paper shop towels and wrap around the base of the filter, then remove it.

A friend of mine told me to poke a hole on the bottom (top?) of the filter, then drain the oil. I'll try that next oil change.
 
Zeldman said:
A friend of mine told me to poke a hole on the bottom (top?) of the filter, then drain the oil. I'll try that next oil change.
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Just make sure the filter is a cartridge and not a separate element+housing setup. :D
 
Zeldman said:
You bet..!!!

All I have to do is drive to the nearest Subaru Dealership...... where ever there is one in the middle of the desert.....:yesnod::lol::lol:
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Grand Junction or Albuquerque I'm sure...
 
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