Clark1961
Touchdown! Greaser!
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B nut on a pipe thread. Right. Now I've heard everything.
Look at the fitting again
B nut on a pipe thread. Right. Now I've heard everything.
Pay attention to the flow of the forum thread... the elbow fitting with the damaged threads was not pipe
Nope! There's a set of them in my toolbox. And a torque wrench to properly tighten them.
Not a good idea IMHO. Grease makes the gasket and mating surface slick. When the fasteners are tightened, this can cause gasket displacement and leaks.
Better to use a product designed specifically for this application.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...sistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant-detail
When the torque is right and the clocking angle ain't what
They have a max torque spec. If you can't get it to line up and not leak, get another fitting.
They are $8.50 each and it takes a week to get here, You buying? do you tell your customer "that will be another week"?
They are $8.50 each and it takes a week to get here, You buying? do you tell your customer "that will be another week"?
I've rubbed him the wrong way.... he's just being difficult.there are many ways to skin a cat...surprised it would even bother you...
That's your opinion. I have many track championships with Sprint Cars running at 10K. We NEVER use the cork gasket in the intakes as they spit out or suck in if we are running a vacuum system. We use Permatex "The Right Stuff" and I have never in over 15 years of racing had one issue with using silicone for the intake. I have had new engines straight from Donovan and Garate with the silicone.My favorite is when someone uses silicone sealant on intake manifold valley end gaskets. Blue Permatex silicone seems to be the weapon of choice.
When the manifold is torqued down (and of course before the sealant is cured) the slick elastomer gasket squirts out like a banana peel, leaving a 3/32" void that leaks copious amounts of oil. The gasket on the rear of the manifold is always the one that leaks because you can't see it.
I normally use a tiny bead of 3M 8001 to adhere the valley gasket to the block and let it cure.
Here's a perfect example of globbing on ten times more sealant than needed...this photo was posted on a forum as an example of how to properly seal the intake.
Note there is silicone on the manifold and the block! The block gasket mating surface is filthy...yeah, it's gonna leak.
When the torque is right and the clocking angle ain't what then?
I have a short steel line and a steel "B" nut for each size I normally use, just attach as you would a line and use it as a handle to remove the fitting.
They have a max torque spec. If you can't get it to line up and not leak, get another fitting.
They are $8.50 each and it takes a week to get here, You buying? do you tell your customer "that will be another week"?
there are many ways to skin a cat...surprised it would even bother you...
I have access to bench stock with probably a minimum of 6 at any time, of all the common ones our fleet use. You do what you want with your low budget outfit. Though, it's not your fault if his hardware is worn out
When the torque is right and the clocking angle ain't what then?
One guy mentions skinning a cat and it's "you guys". I like cats, leave me out of it.
BTW, what the hell do you guys have against cats??! Why would anyone know even one way to skin one??
Though, it's not your fault if his hardware is worn out
Is this OK for fuel and oil fittings?
I'll rephrase the question: What is this suitable for?
That stuff is full hardening, and not 100LL soluble, if you expect to ever remove the fitting don't use it.
Thing is that GM has been using RTV in that area since the early 80's with no troubles. But, what you have pictured is way in excess, and an invite for trouble.My favorite is when someone uses silicone sealant on intake manifold valley end gaskets. Blue Permatex silicone seems to be the weapon of choice.
When the manifold is torqued down (and of course before the sealant is cured) the slick elastomer gasket squirts out like a banana peel, leaving a 3/32" void that leaks copious amounts of oil. The gasket on the rear of the manifold is always the one that leaks because you can't see it.
I normally use a tiny bead of 3M 8001 to adhere the valley gasket to the block and let it cure.
Here's a perfect example of globbing on ten times more sealant than needed...this photo was posted on a forum as an example of how to properly seal the intake.
Note there is silicone on the manifold and the block! The block gasket mating surface is filthy...yeah, it's gonna leak.
Oh hell, be smart when using thread tape.
They can also have straight pipe threads vs tapered pipe threads......
at least we don't have whitworth and BSP to deal with....normally.
Frank
You already know the answer to that and I'm not getting into a pi**ing match over it.
When the torque is right and the clocking angle ain't what then?
I have a short steel line and a steel "B" nut for each size I normally use, just attach as you would a line and use it as a handle to remove the fitting.
No, DON'T use thread tape on an airplane.
I spoke with one of the instrument repair stations (the ones that actually open up and overhaul instruments), we are supposed to use thread tape on the instrument fitting threads, skipping the first 2-3 threads. They will void any instrument warranties if they find any goop being used as sealant. Basically, any pneumatics are to use thread tape, any fluid lines uses "goops" as appropriate.
The reasoning for the thread TAPE and not goop, is that the tape will get caught in the inlet filter, whereas goops can go right through and into the bearings.
I spoke with one of the instrument repair stations (the ones that actually open up and overhaul instruments), we are supposed to use thread tape on the instrument fitting threads, skipping the first 2-3 threads. They will void any instrument warranties if they find any goop being used as sealant. Basically, any pneumatics are to use thread tape, any fluid lines uses "goops" as appropriate.
The reasoning for the thread TAPE and not goop, is that the tape will get caught in the inlet filter, whereas goops can go right through and into the bearings.
Pneumatics are fluids. When I was in the Air Force in the late '70's, it was Avionics standard practice to use thread tape on all pitot static fittings at instruments. Yeah, I know, we're talking about vacuum system instruments. F-4 and T-38 didn't have those.I spoke with one of the instrument repair stations (the ones that actually open up and overhaul instruments), we are supposed to use thread tape on the instrument fitting threads, skipping the first 2-3 threads. They will void any instrument warranties if they find any goop being used as sealant. Basically, any pneumatics are to use thread tape, any fluid lines uses "goops" as appropriate.
The reasoning for the thread TAPE and not goop, is that the tape will get caught in the inlet filter, whereas goops can go right through and into the bearings.
Pneumatics are fluids.
If you think so, try washing your car with them.
Repair stations have no authority to set policy, all they can tell you is what they do.
There isn't enough vac pressure this side of the moon to draw EZ turn into a gyro.
Pneumatics are fluids. When I was in the Air Force in the late '70's, it was Avionics standard practice to use thread tape on all pitot static fittings at instruments. Yeah, I know, we're talking about vacuum system instruments. F-4 and T-38 didn't have those.
They do set warranty policy.
The only drag associated with washing a car is the effort of getting the hose out.If you think they're not, what causes drag?