The Oil Temp sender on my Grumman Tiger is bad. It's a Stewart Warner 362-EW. The part (or specs) are not listed anywhere. Anyone got any idea where I can find one?
Do a google search on the information you have.
I actually searched all of website sources suggested before posting, and a dozen more. So far no straight up P/N match. This is another one of those problem parts for a vintage airplane.
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The Oil Temp sender on my Grumman Tiger is bad.
And we know this how?
Jim
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I actually searched all of website sources suggested before posting, and a dozen more. So far no straight up P/N match. This is another one of those problem parts for a vintage airplane.
I hope you'll find that this isn't brain surgery and a sender is a sender when it come to most simple instruments like oil temp, particularly in older planes. I may be wrong....
I checked mine by buying a long stem thermometer and stuck it in the dipstick hole when I shut down. It matched my instrument so I knew it was correct.
So....if it's Stewart Warner why not match it up with one at the auto parts store and check it with a thermometer. Might save you time and money?
.....Good question Jim.
I believe I ruined it. I had all the cowls off to address a battery leak and while I was in there, among other things I re-routed some wiring (the oil temp wiring was one of them). When I went to re-secure the wire back on the the terminal post, the post was spinning. And, when I did my engine run, the needle didn't move.
That is a pretty good indication that there is something amiss with the sensor.
I did make sure I had continuity, but really didn't try inserting a 28.5 ohm resistor to see if it indicated red line (ref the AMM). I could fairly easily bread board up a 1W 28.5 ohm resistor and check it. Given that it's starting to look like it's going to be a PIA to get I should probably do that.
33ø in parallel with a 220ø gives 28.7ø which should be close enough. Why 1 watt? That seems awfully hefty.
.....I believe the 362's are all 100-240 deg F, with variations in physical sizes (per a survey of old Stewart Warner Catalogs). I pulled it out of the airplane today, measured it, checked thread pitch etc. I haven't looked up NPTF dimensions yet.
You don't need to check dimensions. You go down to the hardware store and into the plumbing fittings. You pull out a coupling that looks about the right size (the TLAR test). If you can thread the old sensor in two or three threads by hand, you have figured out the thread size.
I can find 362-XX, none -EW. I'm sure this will work out. If I can find one that will fit for the right temp range in another airplane parts catalog, I believe I can just use it Ref AC AC 23-27 Parts and Materials Substitution for Vintage Aircraft.
You can bet your bottom dollar that American didn't have a special made to order S-W sensor. Just like Cessna didn't have Ford make them up a special alternator or door handles. There is a one-size-fits-all S-W sensor that accomodates all size threads from 1/8 npt through 1/2 npt with threaded bushing adaptors.
What's all this stuff about "gasket". I've never seen a gasket used with pipe thread before.
Jim
.....Without all details in a 12V circuit, 28ohms alone would require greater than 1 Watt (work out the math) and AMM recommendations for performing same test on another system said 1 Watt and it worked as advertised.
Other than an insane need to teach, you can use a thousand watt resistor for all I care. HOWEVER, Brother Ohm is not so easily dismissed. You don't have a 28 ohm resistor directly across a 12 volt battery, you have a meter in series with its own internal resistance. If you had the 28 ohm resistor directly across the battery, it should be a 5 watt resistor. YOU do the math ... I'll even give you the equation rather than having you look it up: P=E^2/R=144/28=5.14 watts. Now if you want to believe AMM (whoever they are) who am I to say different other than you sometimes need to do your own research.
Once my work week starts it's easier to check specs than to get to a hardware store. There are several pipe thread specs, NPTF dry thread was specifically designed for fuel/ oil systems with no thread dope. I also like looking at specs because I usually learn something, and all of this is part of exploring life for me.
Explore life to your heart's content, then fix your airplane.
My installation has a crush gasket. I recognize the old S&W parts were the COTS selections of the day. I personally don't like the one size does all kludge of adapters and sleeves with mystery threads made from mystery metal for the caveat emperor world of auto parts.
If your installation has a crush gasket, then I submit you do NOT have pipe threads. Think about it. WIth pipe threads the seal is made by tapered threads which do NOT get seated all the way to the bottom of the thread (or the seal is worthless). A gasket is used for STRAIGHT threads. NOw, which do you have? What you don't like and what will fix your airplane are two separate and independent items.
The Latin phrase is "caveat EMPTOR".
The thought of a solid plug with the RTD inside is more assuring for oil system. Night IFR in the clouds; do I want to deal with the possibility there might be oil on my windshield? Nah.
If you do night IFR single engine you are a braver man than I. Or perhaps the term isn't "braver".
I knew this was a regulated industry when I bought this thing. I've made a decent living from it. I'm ok trying to work within it. Doing my own work puts most options within my reach. Other pilot owners warned me the first year would be a tough one, especially on my first airplane.
I worked my way through college with the airlines. They taught me the difference between what I learned in engineering school and the real world of airplanes. I hope your airline has that sort of teaching talent on staff.
Jim
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Jim, I participate in GA for a hobby. Your whole presentation reeks of someone that has a problem. I have no time for you.
Any wonder the airlines can't make money....?
You are correct. I've been trying to teach a pig to sing, and all it does is frustrate me and annoys the pig.
I'm sure a callow novice engineer has no time for somebody who has spent nearly 60 years crafting his trade in the profession.
Go build your houses with a micrometer. The world needs a good belly laugh.
Jim
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I typed the number into google and it took me to a Controler ad selling the sender in question...
http://www.controller.com/list/PartsSearch.aspx?PartNum=362EW
KRN has one in stock:
http://www.avspares.com/parts/search?parts=362EW
Am I really good at Google or am I missing something?
This seems like a mole hill type of issue...
I saw this coming back at post #7...
Because with only 4 posts he can’t post an image.Why?
Conehead, that explains a lot. I had one that couldn't understand why the antenna screws were stripping out. When I asked what size apex tip he was using I got a blank stare. When AA deleted avionics guys on the line a lot of problems went away.Well, he's in Memphis, so I suspect the "airline" is FedEx. Even a clod like this can't screw up the money machine that FedEx has built.
Jim
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Pipe threads. There are tapered pipe threads: NPT, National Pipe Taper, and NPS, National Pipe Straight. I have changed these senders many times but have never meaasured them to see what thread they are. They DO use a crush gasket but those threads are straight and could easily be 3/8" NPS. Remember that the dimension for pipe thread is the nominal inside diameter, not the outside diameter as in most other thread applications. A 3/8" pipe thread is around 5/8" OD.
This place implies it's a 5/8"-18 thread, not pipe: http://www.parts4aircraft.com/westach-oil-temp-sender-5-8-18-unf-c2x9383439
3/8" pipe is also 18 TPI. Howver, you don't want to mix them up. Their thread diameters are not the same.
What's the part number and manufacturer?I have a solution with a Stewart and Warner part that has the same thermistor as the original 362EW and therefore the same Ohm resistance curve as the original. It includes the same thread and a new crush washer so no adaptor. I have a few extra and will sell for $100 each plus shipping. I can provide the documents for your A&P to do the approval for this replacement.