Sealing old charts into tabletop?

buzzard86

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Jim R
Well, workbench, actually. Have a bunch of expired ones laying around and though it would be neat to clearcoat them into my workbench top. Surface is a sheet of plywood but I'm not sure what the best product to use to seal these. Will it even work?
 
Well, workbench, actually. Have a bunch of expired ones laying around and though it would be neat to clearcoat them into my workbench top. Surface is a sheet of plywood but I'm not sure what the best product to use to seal these. Will it even work?


Buy a sheet of lexan and lay them out on the workbench then lay the lexan over them. You can then use screws to attach the lexan to the plywood.
 
Are you suggesting you never did decopage as a craft in elementary school, including the burnt edges? :rofl::rofl::rofl:


BTW- I would go with the LEXAN idea as well, as it provides a work surface which is easy to clean.
 
Well, workbench, actually. Have a bunch of expired ones laying around and though it would be neat to clearcoat them into my workbench top. Surface is a sheet of plywood but I'm not sure what the best product to use to seal these. Will it even work?

My brother built a bar with corks from wine bottles. He poured something called Bar Top on it, and it hardened into a clear plastic. I don't know how durable it is for a work surface though.
 
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Thanks, I'll check out the lexan. I was picturing some sort of polyurethane product, but wasn't sure how it would affect the paper. Lexan may be best all around.

I've seen that bar top stuff in other applications. Really cool stuff but, if I recall correctly, you actually have to make a basin and then pour it in like 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. It dries crystal clear and looks awesome, but is more involved than I want to get with this project.

Jim
 
Thanks, I'll check out the lexan. I was picturing some sort of polyurethane product, but wasn't sure how it would affect the paper. Lexan may be best all around.

I've seen that bar top stuff in other applications. Really cool stuff but, if I recall correctly, you actually have to make a basin and then pour it in like 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. It dries crystal clear and looks awesome, but is more involved than I want to get with this project.

Jim


Lexan scratches too easily. It would get cloudy in no time. I'd use epoxy, or a product I used years ago called Lucite. It was a catalyzed, clear, hard resin. See
http://www.lucite.com/acrylic_moulding_compound.asp

Dan
 
Lexan scratches too easily. It would get cloudy in no time. I'd use epoxy, or a product I used years ago called Lucite. It was a catalyzed, clear, hard resin. See
http://www.lucite.com/acrylic_moulding_compound.asp

Dan

Use "NoMar" lexan. And I've used lexan in many applications and never had it turn cloudy.
Lexan is one of the brand names for polycarbonate. It's a fairly soft plastic and any number of solvents will haze it.
 
Well, workbench, actually. Have a bunch of expired ones laying around and though it would be neat to clearcoat them into my workbench top. Surface is a sheet of plywood but I'm not sure what the best product to use to seal these. Will it even work?

The local craft store will sell some kind of pour on stuff. Just pour it on thick and stay out of the way. The excess will run of the edges and the rest will self level. Really.

I used it while converting an old dresser into a vanity in the bathroom. Worked fine.
 
Any suggestions for "laminating" a large collection of taped together charts? Similar to the tabletop idea I am quite proud of the collection of sections I have meticulously cut and taped together and then thumbtacked in my man room wall.

Didn't iron the seams out or anything and it looks pretty awful actually. All the room really needs is Cheryl Ladd in a kimona and its a dorm room from the eighties. Any suggestions for goop to smear over it that would shellac it down so it looked better.

I think you can actually buy one sheet wall charts for a designated area so I am only willing to spend $4 on any proposed solution. If it permanently shlacks it to the wall so much the better.

Todd
 
Kelvin, is this a paint-type product?

Jim
It is...It has been quite a while since I have seen the product and a google search shows it still being made but nearly zero details...

Basically it is a polyurethane that builds up to give that "foot thick" look...
 
Before you coat your charts, you first must "mount" them to whatever surface you are using. You can not simply lay out the charts and pour your finish on to them.

If you are using plywood, wipe it down with a wood filler, let it dry, then sand it smooth. There is product you can purchase called "Yes Paste" it is a non curling vegetable glue. It is not cheap, around ten dollars a pint.

Get a short nap paint touch up roller, these cost around a dollar or so, they are about three inches wide. Lay a glob of Yes Paste on a piece of cardboard then roll your touch up roller into it. Roll an even coat of Yes Paste onto your mounting surface, in this case, the plywood, working both directions. Sight across the paste and remove any hard lumps or foreign particles.

Pick up your chart, start at one side or end of it, and carefully lay it down into the paste, wiping it with the side of your hand as you go to remove as much of the air pockets as you can. Cover the chart with a sheet of kraft paper and working from the middle, in a sunburst pattern using a dry cloth or rag, work out all the bubbles. You will not be able to see them, just feel then through the Kraft paper. When you are sure your chart is down flat in the paste, remove the cover sheet and double check.

Repeat this process with all your charts. Yes paste is water soluble, so you can clean up any dried paste with a wet cloth.

Let this whole thing dry for about twenty four hours before applying your top coat, whatever that may be. The ideal thing would be to weight the charts as they dry with sheets of glass or some other smooth heavy weight. If you mount them properly, weighting them is not a huge issue.

You mentioned not wanting to turn this into a project. You have several choices regarding that. You can make a mess, you can make something you will be proud of, or you could pay someone else to do it for you. I guess you could just dump the whole idea also.

If things are done properly and the results are what you had hoped for, it never really seems like a project at all. When it works out right, it is almost fun.

We get into trouble when we start looking for shortcuts and easy, then it becomes a project.

I know of these things because I am a professional picture framer.

John
 
Build 50 is one of those shortcuts I mentioned above. If you follow the directions exactly, you will be fine. I made a huge mess one time using Build 50 because I had used it successfully a few times before. Rather than reviewing the directions, I just jumped right on in. It never cured, it was like a layer of pitch over my project.

I never used the stuff again. It was not the products fault, it was pilot error.

John
 
including the burnt edges? :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Thanks for the horrid flashback. Now I'm thinking of musk cologne and rayon paisley with wide lapels.

Sadly, these days we're dealing with, "How should I do this?" rather than, "Look what I've done." Lot's of man cards are being revoked or lying unused.
 
Any suggestions for "laminating" a large collection of taped together charts? Similar to the tabletop idea I am quite proud of the collection of sections I have meticulously cut and taped together and then thumbtacked in my man room wall.

Didn't iron the seams out or anything and it looks pretty awful actually. All the room really needs is Cheryl Ladd in a kimona and its a dorm room from the eighties. Any suggestions for goop to smear over it that would shellac it down so it looked better.

I think you can actually buy one sheet wall charts for a designated area so I am only willing to spend $4 on any proposed solution. If it permanently shlacks it to the wall so much the better.

Todd

Wall paper paste to do the walls. You don't want to schelack them perminatly or then next owner might be really upset
 
Google "Bar Top Epoxy". Usually sold as an equal 2-part epoxy. Follow the framers advise to get it all stuck down first. I think we used "mod podge" (modge podge? from a craft store) or some other thin white glue to stick down cut outs from a magazine for our surface and seal the paper. Let that cure for a week. Use outdoor grade ply (or, even better, MDO) so the water in the white glue does not de-lam your backing.

Mix epoxy thoroughly and then for another minute or two more. Pour and use foam brushes. Use the heat from a propane or mapp torch to gently warm and raise any bubbles.

If you give the table a curb, you'll want to fill up to the curb. You don't have to - did a table with the wife that had rounded edges and it still coated it over the edges. Just had to wipe up the underside after a couple hours to get rid of drips.

I've heard of folks using jitterbug sanders (1/4 sheet non-random orbital sanders) to vibe out bubble and help it flow, too.
 
It's a great idea!! I'd imagine a "poured top" would be fine for a lot of work-type stuff, but maybe not extensive hammering, or nasty solvents.

I've seen poured tops in many bars and restaurants, though... they're certainly durable enough for heavy-duty dining or drinking.
So for layout and assembly work, and laying out tools, it would be fine, I think.
 
You can also purchase sheets of scratch resistant Plexiglas, just cut to size and lay it on top of your charts. No gluing, no muss, no fuss. Perfect results every time. The scratch resistant surface really does work, it is tough. It can be scratched, but you have to work at it.

John
 
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