Riding Mower/Lawn Tractor

Well, after consulting with my friend, we did spring for that John Deere 1025R subcompact tractor with 60” mower deck and front loader. Getting delivered Friday. Will be under $150/month each, which we can swing easier than a bunch of cash up front.

We realize it’s not a “real” tractor, but should suit most of our needs, and we have access to the airport owner’s big Kubota for bigger jobs if we need it.

Thanks again for all the advice - much appreciated even if we couldn’t follow it all!

Nothing wrong with that. It's probably a good step in to the "tractor" realm without getting something to cumbersome to do the mowing portion of the work. It'll also be easy to sell if you do decide to go with a slightly bigger tractor later on.
 
2859C94A-9670-4452-A3CF-1327B4369156.jpeg Mowing the airport today with this. It is not cheap; however, it is very effective.
 
View attachment 63258 Mowing the airport today with this. It is not cheap; however, it is very effective.

Now I want that. Or the mowing attachment I saw yesterday on a neighbor’s skid steer.

Skid steers are so much more useful around the typical property than tractors, but I never knew they made front mowing attachments for them until I saw it. Now I’m envious.

Not going to pay for a skid steer though while the old tractor is still operable.
 
Now I want that. Or the mowing attachment I saw yesterday on a neighbor’s skid steer.

Skid steers are so much more useful around the typical property than tractors . . .

Lol, that’s kind of subjective. If I’m moving dirt, digging post holes, or need a jackhammer then sure, a skid steer is great. If you need to brush hog 10 acres, you couldn’t pay me to do it with a skid steer and mower attachment. Different tools for different jobs. Tractors are faster over the ground, too. So if you need to pick up a round bale and run it a few hundred yards to the lean-to, the tractor will make quicker work of it and not beat the hell out of you in the process.


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I went to the JD dealer to see what they had to offer for a big mower, they offered a compact tractor with 72" deck for 17k.
When they tried to demonstrate it, they couldn't get it to start.

Bye bye.
 
We have a 60” Bad Boy ZTR that was purchased for $5K new. Does a fantastic job mowing about 3 acres. We also have a 90’s Kubota B7100HST with a 60” belly mower that does a great job as well, but has sat mostly idle since the ZTR was purchased.

I’d skip any big box store rider/ZTR if you need to mow more than a 1-acre area. They just don’t hold up to the abuse, and paying $2-3K for a heavy duty JD rider is silly when you can pick up several great compact tractors or used ZTR mowers for about the same cost that will mow circles around the JD mowers.

I’d skip Cub Cadet unless it was a compact tractor model with the Yanmar. Mahindra makes good stuff as well.

Decide what you need first: a pure mower, or a compact tractor that mows decently but can also do work with a loader or 3-point. I highly recommend the belly mower vs a 3-point finish mower on a tractor. It’s just easier to maneuver in close quarters.

Also, if the ground ever gets muddy or has some uneven terrain, you’ll be getting the ZTR stuck in no time. That’s their main downside.


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What's a "3-point" ?
 
Thanks, gents!

If you start taking about three point hitches you’ll inevitably hear “PTO” also. That’s “power take off”. The standardized way to connect the tractor engine power to the implement being towed to run stuff like mowers, snowblowers, etc.

My ancient Ford has a PTO thats attached to the manual transmission. It’s fairly annoying if you have to change direction or shift the thing. The implement slows down while the clutch is engaged.

Other tractors with automatic transmissions usually have a PTO that stays live while the tractor transmission does its own thing.

For me that means snowblowing is a pain if the tractor gets stuck against the snow pile. I’m already driving in reverse looking over my shoulder when the snowblower digs in and either the tractor almost stalls or the tires start spinning on snow in 4WD and you have to mash the clutch with a snowblower attachment full of snow that it’s trying to toss, shift to a forward gear, drive up a bit, clutch and shift again to get another run at the snow pile, and repeat for an hour in really bad heavy snow conditions.

The guys with the automatic just take it out of gear and let the snowblower munch on the snow it already injested until it’s clear and then reverse again. Some of those guys even have enclosed cabs, and the really well to do guys have heated ones. :)

But with an average of a single blizzard a year, I try not to get too jealous. It’s not worth $20,000 to fix the problem.

Another thing most three points won’t do is down-force. They only lift the implement off of the ground. Again, more money, you can have down-force and implements that need it on the rear. Like the snowblower that wants to ride up on top of the snowbank. Or the auger drill for post holes that uses big weights on the machines without down-force and just spin and do nothing in really hard ground.

(The post hole thing is why my fence contractor here at the house had to hire someone with a skid steer. I didn’t even try with a weighted auger on the tractor and he thought he was going to do it with a hand-held auger. He ate the costs of hiring a skid steer with an auger that could rock up on the auger and put most of the weight of the skid steer itself on the bit. The skid steer guy had to drill over a hundred post holes for our fence that way, and it took many hours.)
 
Yeah, you have what’s referred to as a “Live PTO” which essentially tied to the tractor ground speed via the rear differential. It can be dangerous in certain situations when the implement starts pushing the tractor.

The independent PTO sure is nice. Our compact tractor has independent mid and rear PTO’s along with the hydrostatic transmission. Easy to run only what you want.


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Yeah, you have what’s referred to as a “Live PTO” which essentially tied to the tractor ground speed via the rear differential. It can be dangerous in certain situations when the implement starts pushing the tractor.

The independent PTO sure is nice. Our compact tractor has independent mid and rear PTO’s along with the hydrostatic transmission. Easy to run only what you want.


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Yeah. I want a better tractor but just can’t justify it. All it does is mow, occasionally move dirt to repair the entrance road or other small dirt moving jobs, and move snow.

It’s mediocre at the snow moving job, but better than pushing a traditional snowblower 850’!, and handles the brush mowing and minor dirt moving (usually with a box grader which is what’s on the back of it right now, since I flattened out the driveway from the usual winter damage) just fine.

The seat is partially busted, the implement up/down lever is a pair of vice-grips I clamped on to the nub of the control after the lever snapped off, and it’s seen much better days. But it runs. Oil and lube and let the little three banger diesel from Japan warm up since they’re known for cylinder cracking.

It went to the local tractor place for a tire that I couldn’t get back on to the fairly bent up rims once and that’s about it. It just chugs along. But equipment better suited for its jobs would be nice. The local tractor place back then was only one, and it’s John Deere green and the place runs on green cash. They charged a fortune to put a tire back on a rim. Since then a Kubota orange place has opened up down the road and that’s about it.

Finding anyplace that will work on an old Ford is a hundred mile drive with the tractor strapped down in the enclosed cargo trailer.

So ... thus my comments in other tractor threads about having a local dealer/repair place. If I were replacing it the replacement would be green or orange, just because dragging a tractor a hundred miles for services I can’t or won’t do, is dumb.
 
Finding anyplace that will work on an old Ford is a hundred mile drive with the tractor strapped down in the enclosed cargo trailer.

So ... thus my comments in other tractor threads about having a local dealer/repair place. If I were replacing it the replacement would be green or orange, just because dragging a tractor a hundred miles for services I can’t or won’t do, is dumb.

I'm surprised it's that difficult to find someone to work on Ford tractors. Is it the 8N/9N-style? We've got at least two guys in our area who rebuild them to new condition in their spare time for retirement income. You can pick 'em up for $2,500-3,000 pretty consistently. A bit more if they're in showroom condition. We don't "need" the bigger L-series Kubota, but it sure is nice to have something with 4WD and a decent amount of HP to run 6' implements now and again.
 
If you start taking about three point hitches you’ll inevitably hear “PTO” also. That’s “power take off”. The standardized way to connect the tractor engine power to the implement being towed to run stuff like mowers, snowblowers, etc.

You mean it's not Paid Time Off?

Actually I knew that one, but not the details of implementation, so thanks for the info.
 
I'm surprised it's that difficult to find someone to work on Ford tractors. Is it the 8N/9N-style? We've got at least two guys in our area who rebuild them to new condition in their spare time for retirement income. You can pick 'em up for $2,500-3,000 pretty consistently. A bit more if they're in showroom condition. We don't "need" the bigger L-series Kubota, but it sure is nice to have something with 4WD and a decent amount of HP to run 6' implements now and again.

Nah it’s a Japanese garden tractor rebranded Ford. The 1210 I believe.

Remember I’m in “horse” country not “farm” country. The New Holland dealer (and any old guys who work on Ford/New Holland stuff) are 100 miles north.

I live where the horse people will (stupidly) pay $20K for a John Deere green garden tractor to mow the horse paddock.

My place is only 4 acres. A 6’ implement would be hilarious. Four passes? LOL.

But... you do point out a big flaw in my tractor searches. I should get a flatbed trailer and shop down there. That’s not that bad a drive for those prices for a REAL tractor.

Problem is, I just don’t “need” a real tractor. But at $2500 plus fuel to go get it and maybe borrowing the neighbor’s flatbed trailer... hmmm...
 
If it’s a tractor, I like Kubota over JD.

Dad had a rough 6.5 acres to mow, after going thru two box store riding mowers in four years, he bit the bullet and bought a Kubota B5100. Three cyl diesel, 16hp, 4wd. It was going strong at 25 years old with just routine mx when we sold it with the estate. Bulletproof!
 
Nah it’s a Japanese garden tractor rebranded Ford. The 1210 I believe . . . Problem is, I just don’t “need” a real tractor. But at $2500 plus fuel to go get it and maybe borrowing the neighbor’s flatbed trailer... hmmm...

Well, keep in mind that a Ford 8N/9N is a 1940's-1950's model with the same live-PTO setup you have now. Somewhere around 20HP or so I think. The big rear tires can put out some good torque though.

Dad had a rough 6.5 acres to mow, after going thru two box store riding mowers in four years, he bit the bullet and bought a Kubota B5100. Three cyl diesel, 16hp, 4wd. It was going strong at 25 years old with just routine mx when we sold it with the estate. Bulletproof!

Yeah that's essentially what our smaller Kubota 7200HST is. 16 or 17HP diesel, 4WD w/turf tires, 60" belly mower, and a 3-point good enough to run 4' boxblades or 5' PTO-driven implements.
 
You can by a good used zero turn commercial mower for the same price as a new box store POS. It will outperform and outlast the cheap new on.

This is my new ride at our airport. I just got it yesterday. Go big or go home :D:D

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You can by a good used zero turn commercial mower for the same price as a new box store POS. It will outperform and outlast the cheap new on.

This is my new ride at our airport. I just got it yesterday. Go big or go home :D:D

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Dang! You got shocks, pegs... lucky!

You ever take it off any sweet jumps?
 
Always something. I just came in from trying to do the first mowing of the unfenced side of the property.

Was getting dark so I had the headlights on and all of a sudden I’ve got a white cloud coming from the right side of the tractor. Awwwww crap.

Figured I blew a radiator hose. Shut it down and walked to the house, got a towel and a gallon of 50/50 premix and walked back.

Looking at it, the top and bottom hoses are on the other side and it’s blowing off steam through the cap pressure vent. WTH? Or it was anyway by where the small amount of steam is coming from.

So anyway, use the towel to pop the cap off and the radiator is half a gallon dry and of course instantly boils when the cap is off. No spew of course. I could tell by the steam it had boiled a bunch off.

So I let it calm down and then dumped most of the 50/50 in there to assist with cooling it.

Idled it back up to the house, parked it, and I’ll deal with it later.

Don’t know if it lost a water pump or it has a pinhole leak in the radiator and got low or what.

No signs of leaks anywhere but up near the cap drain hose. Weird. Not a hose either. Has to be a pinhole in the radiator.

If it’s blown a head gasket and it’s burning it... that could be it, too but I sure hope not. I haven’t seen any white in the exhaust so I doubt it.

I bet it’s the radiator.

Oh hell. I didn’t even look to see if the fan threw a belt. Going back outside to check that now. Hahaha. Stupid thing may just have tossed the fan belt and overheated. I know I saw the alternator belt was intact but I’m standing here in the kitchen thinking “was the fan turning?” LOL. Chit.

Be right back. Old tractors. Yay. LOL.
 
Stuck thermostat...unless it doesn't have a thermostat...ya never know...
 
Yeah fan is turning and when I shut it off I could hear the pinhole leak when I stuck my head up there. Or something hissing.

Can’t see it, but it’s sounding like it’s the radiator.

Guess I’m off to go dig out the manual and hunt the part number for a radiator. :)
 
Stuck thermostat...unless it doesn't have a thermostat...ya never know...

I don’t think it even has one, but I’ll look in the maintenance manual. Ha. I think as soon as it starts, coolant starts going roundy-round. It has a glow plug to get the diesel going then it just warms on its own. I always let it come up to temp before flogging it. :)

Usually just driving it to the row of implements and letting it idle while I’m working on hooking stuff up takes care of most of the warm up. I’m a big chicken though and it gets shut off when I’m attaching the PTO or have any body parts down in there between implement and tractor. My brain knows the bucket is down, it isn’t going to move, and the manual isn’t in gear, AND the PTO lever isn’t engaged, but I’m still a huge chicken.

Ha. Belt, suspenders, and a crane on that one. Nothing running while I’m doing that stuff! :)

But good point. Might as well buy it one if I’m replacing the radiator. It’ll probably be right where the hose goes into the block and easy to get at while the radiator is off.

Not that getting at anything on a tractor is particularly difficult. :)

Could probably rig up some way to pressure test the rad, but don’t really feel like it. If it’s not the rad it’s a hose, and if it’s not a hose, it’s a head gasket.

It has needed a tiny top off of coolant every year for the last four in the Spring, so it’s had some tiny leak somewhere I haven’t been able to find for a while now. The rad is about 2’x18” rectangular, not very big, and easy to pull and swap. Shouldn’t be too outrageously expensive either.

Off to go figure out where the manual went... it’s in the office on a shelf somewhere... probably right next to the maintenance manual for the Dodge. ;)
 
Huh. It’s smaller than I thought.

13 1/4” x 14 1/4”

Such a tiny thing for all the work the tractor is doing.

Well anyway... $370 on eBay. Hmmm. Maybe I should pressure test the current one, eh?

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Love mowing....with the beast.
 

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So did a pressure test on the tractor cooling system at 20 psi tonight and no leaks. Some little pinging and popping noises from the radiator at first but that’s it.

But on startup of the little diesel I had a little bit of run time with some white smoke. Once it warmed up, no white. The pressure test appears to have pushed some coolant into one of the cylinders.

Sooooo... probably a very small leak in a head gasket into a combustion chamber or a crack in the block somewhere.

With proper coolant level it mowed for an hour without any complaints after the pressure test. I will check coolant level tomorrow morning when it’s cold. I know exactly where it was and parked it in the same level spot so I can see how quickly it’s going down, if it even is.

It may have either just gotten low by whatever mechanism is causing the white smoke, and overheated in dramatic fashion, or the hard bouncing may have dislodged the radiator cap if I didn’t have it on tight enough which caused an instant boil off.

Not sure yet. But it’s running and the pressure test held 20 psi for 15 minutes, so whatever this little leak is, is very small.

Unfortunately it doesn’t have a temp gauge. Can’t really see if coolant temp is behaving or not on the thing.

Going to watch it and see if it gets worse. It probably will. They always do. So far, nothing major found.
 
Our smaller Kubota has no water pump or temp gauge. Cooling is done via gravity flow, and I don't think there's a thermostat. We fought issues with it (bought well-used) burping coolant and eventually blowing white smoke. We ended up finding someone in OKC selling a used engine complete with radiator from the same tractor style that had it running on an engine stand. So we bought that and swapped the good engine in. The old one is still setting in the corner of the shop waiting on me to see if it's salvageable to re-sell.
 
Took delivery of the 1025R on Friday:

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I think we made a good choice. Mowed just a little, and played with getting just the bucket or the whole loader assembly on and off:

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Very easy. The airport owner who owns that big Kubota was jealous.

Also shown how the "ride off" 60" mowing deck goes on and off, but that's a tiny bit more involved and I'll play with it with my partner one day.

I think a "roof" would be nice to keep the sun off, but from John Deere its over $400. Pretty sure I can come up with something using pvc for the frame and tarp material for the shade.

Everybody needs a hobby!
 
If you’re going to leave the ROPS up, make sure you double check you garage/bay door is pushed up high enough.


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If you’re going to leave the ROPS up, make sure you double check you garage/bay door is pushed up high enough.


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and for those who have clothes lines.....zero turn mower....and ROPS.....don't do this. ROPS with the zero turn was new to me....and what I always did, I quickly learned....doesn't work any more. o_O

FB cross post...
So...I bought this new zero turn mower with a ROPs (roll over protection) bar. The bar the keeps you safe from a roll over.... The old zero turn mower could turn on a dime nicely (with no bar)...this one does zip well too. Cept, I discounted the effectiveness of the roll over bar.....and it caught the clothes line Tee.... mid turn....as I was zipping....around the pole. I nearly flipped it....as it was fully wound around the pole.
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In addition to bending the close line pole....I think it left skid marks.
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Those who have and those who will.

Lol we’ve never raised it on the big tractor as it’s pretty hard to roll an L-series Kubota on flat ground. The compact B7200 is a fixed ROPS but is only about 7’ or so, but it’s still enough that I pull in slowly if the door isn’t 100% up.


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Recovered enough from my hand and elbow surgery to start really using the tractor.

Was really handy for clearing out some felled trees and brush and piling in a burn pile.

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I'm sure that's old hat for you real farmers out there, but I'm still in the process of discovering how handy this thing is.

I installed a "Quick Hitch", and for now I'm just using some 25 lb plates I had for ballast:

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There are various threads on here about ride on mowers, people have varying opinions of different models!

I have a "Murray" ride on with a Briggs & Stratton engine, if you have a full mechanics toolkit, (you will need every tool in your kit, plus more, also a good pair of mechanics gloves as every fastener has been placed in a totally inaccessible place ensuring scraped knuckles when the cheap fastener eventually decides to allow itself to be undone or tightened up, as most fasteners constantly work them selves loose!) love working on crappy machinery, are a master mechanic with endless patience this is the machine for you! unsurprisingly it doesn't cut grass very well, drinks gasoline and oil, to add insult to injury it is ridiculously expensive for what it is!

Highly recommended!
 
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