Tom-D
Taxi to Parking
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- Feb 23, 2005
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Tom-D
Which one are re-indexing?Which prop are you referring too?
Which one are re-indexing?Which prop are you referring too?
Which one are re-indexing?
If that's the case yer probably OK, but if it is a production built aircraft you can't always simply move the prop.I thought I was discussing the prop on Ben's airplane. I wasn't aware the maintenance manual on his prop wouldn't allow indexing.
Maybe Ben could answer that.
but if it is a production built aircraft you can't always simply move the prop.
Again, that depends upon the propeller.
Not the prop, the aircraft and or the engine.
True, but I wouldn't be advising the page to move a prop a bolt hole.Again, depends as this does not apply to all.
True, but I wouldn't be advising the page to move a prop a bolt hole.
Some Fed doing a ramp check sees a prop stop at the wrong angle, would really get their attention.
I thought I was discussing the prop on Ben's airplane. I wasn't aware the maintenance manual on his prop wouldn't allow indexing.
Maybe Ben could answer that.
If that's the case yer probably OK, but if it is a production built aircraft you can't always simply move the prop.
Ben could simply pull the prop shaft and re-machine it to stop the wobble.
. The tracking is RIGHT on every time. it is just that the blades are so flexible that on each revolution one tip could be out of track with the other 2 in flight... One of the drawbacks of thin tipped composite props..... Unless you guys have been around carbon fiber props you cannot appreciate to unique quirks they have,,, Dan has seen it and understands..
Same principles as helicopter blade tracking. Sounds like you have one blade going slightly out of track while running. Helicopter blades are "matched" by weight and blade twist, and various models have trim tabs to compensate.
Not sure how your blade manufacturer does his blades, if they are weight tested and balance tested against a master.
What you may want to try is the old method we use to track blades with, the stick with a piece of chalk on the end. Stand behind the prop while the plane is running and slowly extend the stick to the back side of the prop disk until you feel the chalk touching, then remove it. Shut off the engine and see which blades have chalk marks. If 2 blades have chalk and one doesn't, replace that blade and repeat. If one blade has chalk and the other two don't, replace that blade.
The chalk idea is a good one...
What you may want to try is the old method we use to track blades with, the stick with a piece of chalk on the end. Stand behind the prop while the plane is running and slowly extend the stick to the back side of the prop disk until you feel the chalk touching, then remove it. Shut off the engine and see which blades have chalk marks. If 2 blades have chalk and one doesn't, replace that blade and repeat. If one blade has chalk and the other two don't, replace that blade.
Pull the tops plugs, place a bench (something solid) in front and near the prop. Take a pointer of some kind and attack it to the bench to just touch the prop blade. Rotate the prop so that the next blade come in the same position. Adjust the pointer to the blade that comes closest to the pointer, measure the distant between the 2. Shouldn't be more than 1/8" or .125.
Your method works, but gives you no measurement, and I'm just not a fan of playing with moving props. There is a tolerance in blade tracking.
Your method works for a static track, but Ben's problem sounds like a blade is bending more than the others while running which is dynamic, which pulls the blades out of track and induces vibration. If all 3 blades are "matched" the problem wouldn't exist, but it doesn't appear to be that way.
This is true, and you are correct.
I have checked the prop statically and it is within .040..
R&W is on the right track I think, if for some reason one blade is slightly more flexible then it will pull forward faster then the other 2 and tracking gets out of kilter....
Use a fish scale and a dial indicator and check it by pulling X pounds on the scale, and see how the blades compare in movement.
Use a fish scale and a dial indicator and check it by pulling X pounds on the scale, and see how the blades compare in movement.
I think you did alright. Let us know the final d$amages.
Prop balance was $280. I had to pay a mechanic to run the motor since I couldn't be there so total out the door was $407.
If it went from .3 to .02 then you got your moneys worth in spades..
I agree.
I'm just surprised so few owners do this, it cost less than an oil change.
Ask the maintenance minimalists?
Where are they? I thought someone would show up and say what a waste of money it is and how I have more money than sense, this is like a parallel universe.
We're still up north. Currently 1/2 SM -SN BLSN OVC005, but it's supposed to improve to OVC003.I hope the vacation was good and not too "arctic" for you guys.
We're still up north. Currently 1/2 SM -SN BLSN OVC005, but it's supposed to improve to OVC003.
Probably taking off after lunch. Tops are only around 6k.
Sounds lovely.
Just for the record, I've seen occasions where dynamic balancing did not do any good.
but I've never seen any occasion where it did any harm.
When the crank weights on the 0-300 are worn out, balancing the prop won't cure the problem.