Plasti Dip for Yoke Handles?

[Gary Ward]

I swapped out the bow tie yokes and decided to go with https://yokeupinteriors.com/ to refinish the rams horn yokes I found. I am very happy with the results, and they were great to work with. It was about a two week turnaround. Here’s a before and after.

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Another vote for those, they look very nice and custom.

I did not like the pictures I saw of the Warren Gregoire slip on leather covers.
I have their slip on rubber grips that are alright.

 

[Motor6]

These look really good. They have my vote.

How many AMUs?

About 1.6 to strip, epoxy prime, and leather wrap. I have no regrets, they look even better in person! Glenn was great to work with, and he even helped me with some small repairs the yokes needed at a very reasonable rate.

 

[Huckster79]

I removed mine and primed and painted them myself w single stage car paint. It’s held up ok but when I do it again I’m going to use epoxy primer instead of self etch as I did the first time. Live and learn- but I’d DIY it again no doubt. Epoxy primer definitely has superior adhesion- I just hadn’t discovered it yet when I painted mine

consider doing a new u-joint while it’s out if applicable. Expensive lil buggers but man it was like having an alignment done on your car- the controls were so much more crisp with a fresh u joint.

before




After- (kinda blurry but shows the improvement)

 

[WDD]

Powder Coat

Remove, strip (using aircraft stripper), clean, and take it to a local shop that does power coating. A hundred or so dollars. You'll have to wait until they have something they are powdering black and they can put yours in the batch.

 

[Rgbeard]

Powder Coat

Remove, strip (using aircraft stripper), clean, and take it to a local shop that does power coating. A hundred or so dollars. You'll have to wait until they have something they are powdering black and they can put yours in the batch.

good thing about black is …. They nearly always have a black batch happening soon.

 

[Dan Thomas]

Powder coating involves temperatures as high as 450°F. That can wreck any heat-treatment of aluminum, leaving it soft and weak. Beware.

 

[WDD]

Powder coating involves temperatures as high as 450°F. That can wreck any heat-treatment of aluminum, leaving it soft and weak. Beware.

Interesting. I’ve powder coated many aluminum parts for my motorcycle. But thankfully the yoke isn’t going to be under high stress loads as something like a wing spar would be.

 

[Dan Thomas]

Did a bit of digging and found that the FAA approves of it in some stuff:

https://www.victor-aviation.com/Electrostatic_Powdercoated.php

They also warn about it in another application:

https://www.faa.gov/other_visit/avi...afety/safo/all_safos/media/2010/SAFO10018.pdf

 

[WDD]

Seems like their issue is with drilling a hole in the sealed wing strut making it no longer sealed. They didn’t mention heating making the part softer.

You have a good point though - got to think about what your heating up. Does the part have two different metals in it? Does is have holes that need to remain open - don’t want the thick powered paint clogging them up.

 

[Dan Thomas]

Seems like their issue is with drilling a hole in the sealed wing strut making it no longer sealed. They didn’t mention heating making the part softer.

The struts addressed there are steel.