Piper Cherokee 140 nose cowling crack

cosmetic but in an odd place. I was thinking it was somewhere else. Repair as mentioned above, touch up with red paint and be done with it.
 
I, for one, would want to know how the hole got to be there and what the back side of the nosebowl looks like before making any determination on if I'd leave it alone for now or fix it. Judging by its location, I'd guess the baffling chafed it from the back side until it wore through.
 
mondtster said:
I, for one, would want to know how the hole got to be there and what the back side of the nosebowl looks like before making any determination on if I'd leave it alone for now or fix it. Judging by its location, I'd guess the baffling chafed it from the back side until it wore through.
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Good point and would explain the odd location.
 
But look on the back side and see if it is a wear through from the baffle or just a crack. Looks like a wear through from the picture. Wouldn't do any good to repair it only to have it wear through again.
 
Timbeck2 said:
But look on the back side and see if it is a wear through from the baffle or just a crack. Looks like a wear through from the picture. Wouldn't do any good to repair it only to have it wear through again.
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Its in such an odd location its tough to see, but I don't believe there is anything behind it. I could be wrong, but it kind of looks like something hit it, creating the damage.
 
jason gula said:
Its in such an odd location its tough to see, but I don't believe there is anything behind it. I could be wrong, but it kind of looks like something hit it, creating the damage.
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At a minimum, something was behind it at one time. That's right about where the alternator, alternator belt, and baffling is, all of which are close to the cowl. Easy or not, someone with knowledge of what is acceptable needs to look at the back side and insure that whatever rubbed the hole in it isn't going to keep rubbing.
 
I guess to expand a bit further, and again I'm new to this so I'm looking for some help, I have another thread here where today I found a 2" orange duct, disconnected with a loose clamp, which goes from the unfiltered air scoop on the bottom of the cowling, into a box which someone identified as the fuel pump/gascolator box. It definitely was connected and somehow came loose. Any chance this is related to the nose cowling damage? Vibration or something? Or just a coincidence all of a sudden.
 
jason gula said:
I guess to expand a bit further, and again I'm new to this so I'm looking for some help, I have another thread here where today I found a 2" orange duct, disconnected with a loose clamp, which goes from the unfiltered air scoop on the bottom of the cowling, into a box which someone identified as the fuel pump/gascolator box. It definitely was connected and somehow came loose. Any chance this is related to the nose cowling damage? Vibration or something? Or just a coincidence all of a sudden.
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Jason, find a mechanic that works with owners. Tell him you want to learn how to do your own oil changes. You'll learn how to cowl and de-cowl your plane. You'll be at a shop already if something bad turns up. You'll learn all your systems and how to check for other items that like to "get loose" like exhaust hangars, etc. If it doesn't have one, you'll spend $57 to put in a quick oil drain and learn how to safety wire. Recommend you also show up at annual and learn how to re-pack bearings, remove wheels ... these are all things you're allowed to do without being an A&P and will help you that much more on a pre-flight ESPECIALLY after maintenance.
 
danhagan said:
Jason, find a mechanic that works with owners. Tell him you want to learn how to do your own oil changes. You'll learn how to cowl and de-cowl your plane. You'll be at a shop already if something bad turns up. You'll learn all your systems and how to check for other items that like to "get loose" like exhaust hangars, etc. If it doesn't have one, you'll spend $57 to put in a quick oil drain and learn how to safety wire. Recommend you also show up at annual and learn how to re-pack bearings, remove wheels ... these are all things you're allowed to do without being an A&P and will help you that much more on a pre-flight ESPECIALLY after maintenance.
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will do thanks.
 
jason gula said:
I guess to expand a bit further, and again I'm new to this so I'm looking for some help, I have another thread here where today I found a 2" orange duct, disconnected with a loose clamp, which goes from the unfiltered air scoop on the bottom of the cowling, into a box which someone identified as the fuel pump/gascolator box. It definitely was connected and somehow came loose. Any chance this is related to the nose cowling damage? Vibration or something? Or just a coincidence all of a sudden.
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I was that "someone" :) in the other thread. I doubt the the damage was caused by the hose as it would have to jump over the hose from your nose cowl to the carburetor in order to hit that area. Seems like you have two separate issues, both of which (based on the information you provided) are not hard or expensive to fix.
 
Timbeck2 said:
I was that "someone" :) in the other thread. I doubt the the damage was caused by the hose as it would have to jump over the hose from your nose cowl to the carburetor in order to hit that area. Seems like you have two separate issues, both of which (based on the information you provided) are not hard or expensive to fix.
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I'm on it. Thanks for the help.
 
Jason....is there an A&P school in your area? If so, consider taking the General course. You’ll learn safety wiring, what tools you should have, how to do an oil change, tires, batteries, what you’re allowed to do and what needs an A&P to do or sign off, and meet many students who want to be A&Ps. Some of those students will be very happy to help with owner-permitted work in exchange for airplane rides....
 
mondtster said:
I, for one, would want to know how the hole got to be there and what the back side of the nosebowl looks like before making any determination on if I'd leave it alone for now or fix it. Judging by its location, I'd guess the baffling chafed it from the back side until it wore through.
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Most likely. The aluminum baffle might have been replaced but not trimmed to ensure clearance between its edge and the cowl. The sealing strip is supposed to bridge the gap.

I have seen holes worn in cowls by the baffle seal, too. Grit gets between the seal and cowl and turns the seal into sandpaper. Airplanes parked outside in dust storms can get that.
 
Well I spoke with the previous owner today. He stated the baffling on the devious engine ended up chafing it. He stated new baffling was installed with the engine change. This occurred in 2014 so it’s been like this for 6 years now. I feel it will be fine then until I make the repairs.
 
jason gula said:
Well I spoke with the previous owner today. He stated the baffling on the devious engine ended up chafing it. He stated new baffling was installed with the engine change. This occurred in 2014 so it’s been like this for 6 years now. I feel it will be fine then until I make the repairs.
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Within 6 years, it should have been repaired.
 
Dan Thomas said:
...I have seen holes worn in cowls by the baffle seal, too. Grit gets between the seal and cowl and turns the seal into sandpaper. Airplanes parked outside in dust storms can get that.
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I have not seen a hole, but the zinc chromate underside of my Warrior's cowling had been worn through by the old hard, OEM black baffling. I covered the worn and adjacent areas with metal foil duct tape. When I replaced the engine, I replaced all the aluminum baffling topped with blue silicon. When/if the metal tape ever shows wear, I'll simply replace it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...ulti-Purpose-HVAC-Foil-Tape-1207792/100030120
 
Domenick said:
I have not seen a hole, but the zinc chromate underside of my Warrior's cowling had been worn through by the old hard, OEM black baffling. I covered the worn and adjacent areas with metal foil duct tape. When I replaced the engine, I replaced all the aluminum baffling topped with blue silicon. When/if the metal tape ever shows wear, I'll simply replace it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-...ulti-Purpose-HVAC-Foil-Tape-1207792/100030120
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I've seen that, and once I used a polyurethane anti-abrasion tape for the purpose, but the heat under the cowl loosened it and a piece found its way into the cold air inlet to the heat muff and made smoke in the cockpit. It could conceivably have ended up in the carb if carb heat had been applied. Not good at all. One has to be careful to look for unintended consequences.
 
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