Piper Archer II Panel lights
- Thread starter RHaltom
- Start date
Are you a contortionist? It helps.
#1 Section XI - Electrical Systems in the service manual, 11-128 Instrument & Panel Lights, 4E3+
#2 remove whatever device is immediately above the switch panel. It's easier.
MajorTurbulence
Line Up and Wait
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MajorTurbulence
What specifically are your symptoms of dysfunction?
I have some history on this topic with my Archer2. Please provide which PA28 and year.
Edit: I see you mention the model in your title. Do a search for “PA28-181 panel light glitch.”
I have some history on this topic with my Archer2. Please provide which PA28 and year.
Edit: I see you mention the model in your title. Do a search for “PA28-181 panel light glitch.”
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Before you go that route, have you verified the rheostat is the problem? Will you be signing off the work or someone else? Unfortunately I've seen more rheostat/controllers changed than needed to be. But there are some tricks to the process.
RHaltom
Filing Flight Plan
Many thanks for the search tip. A lot of help. I was able to get the panel completely loose which helped a lot. Checking continuity with a meeter confirmed that the rheostat has a dead spot and the switch is bad. Looking at the Maxdim stc option as I can't seem to locate a replacement. I'd prefer to keep OEM but if I can't, I can't. Thanks!
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What part number rheo are you looking for? Some can be crossed to alternate P/Ns as they usually are considered a standard part.
Maxdim does have a legit/stc replacement for the switch/rheostat. I have 2 in my cherokee, and Piper is using them in new aircraft.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/maxDimUnit.php.
or go to Seaton's website, the current manufacturer:
Products - Seaton Engineering
Our products have been rigorously tested for quality control and performance. Our products are assembled in the USA by Seaton Engineering.
seatoneng.com
RHaltom
Filing Flight Plan
Well, I was able to get it sorted out. Rang out the wiring, all good. Changed the transistors, no help. I didn't like the the way the panel light rheostat was acting so I ordered a new one. took a bit to find and $220 dollars later it was mine. (I didn't want the rotary dimmer from Maxdim so I could keep it OEM). The laying on my back soldering was a bit of a challenge but got through it. Turned power on, nothing. Went back to look at the transistors and I noticed that the sockets were spread so I fixed that, and no help. So, I thought that I would again replace the transistors just in case. Flipped on the power and I saw a brief flash on the panel lights then nothing. Then I realized that the LED bulbs were taking out the transistors. (The previous owner installed these). I removed all of the LED bulbs, replaced the transistors with another set, installed one incandescent bulb I had and magic! Ordered some replacement GE's and I was back in business. Thanks for all of the tips and I hope this helps the next guy/gal out there.
MajorTurbulence
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Very impressed that you got a new POTentiometer, and for $220. Just to be clear, was that new new, or just new to you from someone’s old pile of used parts?
I just reviewed my photographs and it looks like those 7 wires to the Pot can be soldered more easily if the the large nut holding the Pot in place is loosened freeing up the POT. It looks like cutting those ties holding that harness can free up some length to allow an easier time of it. Upside down has got to be a treat but I wonder if extending those wires using soldered butt connectors are an approved FAA method that would allow a more normal position to work with.