Paint peeling off in sheets

mondtster said:
The processes are similar. Primer/UV protection is combined in one process, then color over top of that.

My concern with both Air Tech and Superflite is long term durability. I know Superflite had some problems with some of the older processes, and the two airplanes ive been around and worked on with Air Tech on them started cracking after they got older. Both are easy processes to install though and look nice.

I personally am more of a Poly Fiber guy. My Stinson was done in Poly Fiber in the late '80s and it is still in decent shape. The paint is flat but it is still pliable and not cracking, and easily repaired when necessary.
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Airtech was invented for the Ag-Croppers on the old AG cats, a long time ago, it is the preferred system for them. it will out last poly-fiber.

the local Potato farmer has a old Ag-Cat recovered in the 60s still looks great. and sets out all year. it impressed him so he had his Steerman done with it.
 
I know Sean Tucker's Pitts a little. It's covered in Superflight VII. Long term durability isn't a concern as they strip, inspect, repair, and re-cover that plane every winter.

Airtech, Superflight VII, Stewarts.... all are urethane systems. Durable and chemical resistant. Polytone's Aerothane and Randolph's Ranthane are urethane top coats for application over polybrush/polyfill or dope undercoats. Both of those systems provide urethane topcoat durability with easier repairs than all urethane systems. Both use silver for UV protection while the all urethane systems use chemical additives. Aerothane is thinner and harder to spray but the thin film is flexible. Ranthane is higher build. Easier to spray but more likely to crack. Flexibility is a big issue with all urethanes. That's why car paints are taboo on fabric planes. Especially the new high solids-low VOC paints. High solids paints are easier to spray and allow guys to put too much on the fabric. Thick coatings don't make for long lasting fabric jobs. The easiest topcoats to repair are Polytone and dope. Polytone and dope are matte finishes. Urethanes are usually high gloss. Polytone and dopes aren't good choices on metal so those systems require enamels or urethanes for parts of the plane. Urethane paints are good on the whole plane. Purists don't like high gloss on fabric. It doesn't look "correct" on classic airplanes. Dope coating is flammable. Polyfiber and urethane systems are less so.
 
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bluerooster said:
The coating system is releasing it's self from the fabric in sheets. Not just the color coats, but all the way down to the white fabric. Even the "rando-proof" blue first coat stuff is comming off.
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More general info for guys who are interested. The comment about the coatings releasing down to white is interesting. If the first coating was applied properly the color of the fabric is the same on the inside and outside as the coating has to saturate the fabric completely. See the pic of my airframe as the baggage area interior was covered in Polyfiber. The tell-tale Poyfiber pink color is the same on both sides of the fabric but was only applied on the inside.
 

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Stewartb said:
More general info for guys who are interested. The comment about the coatings releasing down to white is interesting. If the first coating was applied properly the color of the fabric is the same on the inside and outside as the coating has to saturate the fabric completely. See the pic of my airframe as the baggage area interior was covered in Polyfiber. The tell-tale Poyfiber pink color is the same on both sides of the fabric but was only applied on the inside.
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As it should be..

try spraying the first coat on a test piece, see what happens.
 
Stewartb said:
I know Sean Tucker's Pitts a little. It's covered in Superflight VII. Long term durability isn't a concern as they strip, inspect, repair, and re-cover that plane every winter.
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you worked on Tucker's plane?.... :eek:
 
There is one other possibility that will cause the paint to peel off the cloth.. IF .. by chance the iron was set too hot it will cause the fabric to melt and close the weave so the paint will not penetrate.
All the instruction manuals I've read warn against not having a calibrated iron.
 
Stewartb said:
Staining is simple to remove from dope or polytone. Simpler yet on a cured urethane or polyurethane like Ranthane, Aerothane, Airteck, Superflight 7, or Stewarts.
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My 182 customer had his aircraft painted using Randolph products, a year later he had a fuel leak, now his beautiful white aircraft has a blue streak down the side. we have tried every thing to get it out. nothing will get it out.
 
Randolph on a metal airplane?

Urethane paint stain removal- mild cutting polishing compound.
 
James331 said:
I know, it's probably very frustrating for you, take your time
Actually let me make it easier on you.
Do you think prepping a surface before application is a bad idea?
Do you think reading any and all documentation that may have come with a product before doing a job is a bad idea?
Do you think using the knowledge of the manufactor of a product you bought is a bad idea?
Do you think asking for advise of your AP (who you are doing the work under) is a bad idea?
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How'd I miss this. Anywho, take it up with Tom. I was just enjoying you get called out. BTW you never did answer Tom I don't think, did you? Ahh didn't think so.
 
mscard88 said:
How'd I miss this. Anywho, take it up with Tom. I was just enjoying you get called out. BTW you never did answer Tom I don't think, did you? Ahh didn't think so.
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What question?

The manual? He posted a few himself, kinda answered his own question
 
What ever came with the system, or the manufactor recommended, asked and answered.

But I'm repeating myself, read the old posts I made on this thread
 
once you beat the horse to death, you must dig the hole. :)
 
Stain goes all the way to metal with catalyzed polyurethane paint? I don't think so. Rub harder.
 
Stewartb said:
Stain goes all the way to metal with catalyzed polyurethane paint? I don't think so. Rub harder.
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metal already showing in places, blue stain still there.
 
Maybe you should have fixed the leak first?

Doesn't matter. Don 't care. I'm done.
 
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