PA28R Panel Lighting

Deelee

Deelee

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Deelee
I have googled and googled and my fingers hurt from trying to google any more on this. So I ask for the help of this esteemed collective of experts.

Short and sweet, here - I need to replace panel bulbs in our 1969 PA28R-200 Arrow. Especially the ones near the MP and RPM gauges. MP is very hard to read at night.

Questions - How hard is it to get the panel pieces off to replace the bulbs? Never taken the panel off, so any gotchas or tips on how to make this job go smoothly?

The parts catalog specifies a red bulb - part# 472 051 - BULB - (PS10008-53R) Red (20 of them). Can I replace them with the clear? This is part# 472 056 - BULB - (PS10008-53) Clear (20 of them). If so, has anyone done this and have pics of their panel at night? I like the red lighting, but dim, soft white wouldn't bother me. And if it is good for the later serial number Arrows, why not for ours?

Spruce has the clear ones here: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gereplacement_11-04193.php?clickkey=5558885

Red ones that I think will fit are here: https://www.jacksonelectricsupply.com/53R-Red-Miniature-Bulb-Ba9S-Base-p/53r.htm But I'm not sure if those are the right ones...

Anybody with an Arrow my year close to the same year as mine replace bulbs and can help?

Thanks!
 
Removing the upper plastic panel overlay is simple, just a bunch of screws. The bulb sockets "clip" into holes in the sub-panel. The lower overlay is also easy BUT you need to be careful not to accidentally move the landing gear switch! The handle just un-screws. The bulb sockets for the lower instrument panel are spring held into holes in the sub panel. They can fall out easily when work is being done behind the panel. So check to make sure the bulbs are still in place after you remove the lower instrument panel overlay. Regarding color of the bulbs...the ones in my '69 Arrow just happen to have all the red dye worn off for some reason :rolleyes:. Frankly I prefer the white light but it is your choice. The bulbs are cheap BUT don't be tempted to replace them with LEDs because the dimming circuit for this year Arrow is what is called an "emitter follower" and relies on current drain from the bulbs to affect the dimming capability. LEDs don't draw much current at all and, therefore, will not work with that dimming circuitry.

Having said all the above...I installed a LED "strip" light (removable, of course) on the underside of the glare shield to light up the upper panel better. The strip is 5 VDC and plugs into a 12 VDC to 5 VDC converter that is plugged into the cig lighter socket. I also installed a (removable) LED "wand" (like for laptop computers) just below the rocker switches for master, battery, fuel pump, etc. because those switches are not illuminated at all and are difficult to read with the overhead lighting. Unfortunately my photos are too big to post here but if you PM me I will send them to you.
 
I replaced all my GE53 panel lights and overhead light with LED lights from SuperbrightLEDs:
· Overhead White Floodlight is 67-W15 Natural White
· Panel and Engine Gauge lights are BA9S-W-120-12VAC-20PK

Most of the panel lights are accessible by removing the plastic overlays on the front. The bulbs for the engine cluster require pulling out the sockets from behind the panel. You may need a borescope to see them. Use great care when putting the new bulbs in because it is very easy to push the clip sockets behind the panel and it is a real pain to try to put those back in again. I used the cool blue color--a blue tinted white light. This is a big improvement over the GE53 bulbs. I suggest taping some aluminum tape behind the plastic panels for better reflectivity. The Superbright LED panel bulbs work fine with the Piper dimmer but are not as linear in dimming.
 
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Removing the fascia is easy, screws only
Replaced all the light bulbs from the incandescent reds to the LED whites from AC Spruce, dimmer works fine for me (1969 PA28R-180)
Life Hack: Put silver reflective tape on the back side of your plastic fascia. Works great!
 
Thanks for all the great suggestions and tips on getting the panels off. I think I am going to order the incandescent clear GE 53 bulbs and install all of them. They are cheap and the parts catalog says there are 20 of them. So maybe for 20 bucks I can get my panel lit again. I like the idea of putting the silver tape on the back of the panels, too.

@Arrow76R I think I am going to buy that wand to uplight the switch panel and also a dimmable LED tape light setup to go under the glareshield. I can plug them both in to the cig lighter with a cheap USB adapter (I have two USB ports for charging on that side, too).
 
I used the Nulites in my C-172 but in the PA 28 series (at least in my '69 Arrow) the panel light dimming circuitry doesn't play with NuLites.
 
guzziguy...is the panel light dimming circuit in your '69 PA 28-180 an emitter follower?
 
One issue with NuLites is that in the PA 28 series (at least my '69 Arrow) the plastic overlay panel already stands off by some amount from the sub-panel thus making the instruments peer out through a "tunnel" and installing the NuLites pushes the instruments back so does that make them more difficult to see?
 
I think my plan right now is to:

Replace the old bulbs (the remaining red ones and the burned out red ones) with these clear ones: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gereplacement_11-04193.php

Add a dual USB charger to the cigarette lighter adapter (we will still have two each open USB ports two on pilot side and two more on passenger side in addition to the cig lighter adapter).

Plug this in to one of the aforementioned USB ports with some 3m tape to secure it (@Arrow76R I think I just want the white, but this is based on your idea) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015R87GQ...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Plug it in to this dimmer to control the brightness (this way I don't have to use a remote) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTD713...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Add this little light bar under the switches and secure it with little zip ties (thanks @Arrow76R for this idea... the one you suggested is out of stock) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIQUJQ...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What do you all think?
 
Arrow76R said:
One issue with NuLites is that in the PA 28 series (at least my '69 Arrow) the plastic overlay panel already stands off by some amount from the sub-panel thus making the instruments peer out through a "tunnel" and installing the NuLites pushes the instruments back so does that make them more difficult to see?
Click to expand...

Not for me at least. The altimeter knob is little tighter that I like, but that’s about it. I have plastic overlay too
 
I think you will like the panel lighting provided by the strip lights. I like the NuLites and might go back to them for the tach and map/fuel flow gauge if they can be dimmed. I looked into replacing the Piper rocker switches with illuminated ones but that would involve A LOT of work behind the panel (and approval) but those switches aren't cheap hence the "light bar" approach. Truly "necessity is the mother of invention" !!!
 
Arrow76R said:
guzziguy...is the panel light dimming circuit in your '69 PA 28-180 an emitter follower?
Click to expand...
No idea, the dimmer is stock as far as I can tell. I installed the LED lights that look like little plugs not even knowing there could be an issue with the dimmer. Maybe not knowing keeps them working?
If I remember correctly, I got them on Aircraft Spruce.

Here they are. These work fine in my panel:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/marketled.php?clickkey=3007988
 
Deelee said:
I think my plan right now is to:

Replace the old bulbs (the remaining red ones and the burned out red ones) with these clear ones: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gereplacement_11-04193.php

Add a dual USB charger to the cigarette lighter adapter (we will still have two each open USB ports two on pilot side and two more on passenger side in addition to the cig lighter adapter).

Plug this in to one of the aforementioned USB ports with some 3m tape to secure it (@Arrow76R I think I just want the white, but this is based on your idea) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015R87GQ...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Plug it in to this dimmer to control the brightness (this way I don't have to use a remote) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTD713...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Add this little light bar under the switches and secure it with little zip ties (thanks @Arrow76R for this idea... the one you suggested is out of stock) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIQUJQ...olid=2FIK4C0FQ5ECD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What do you all think?
Click to expand...
You want to get rid of the GE53 incandescent bulbs altoghter and replace with LED. Ask anyone that has done this and they will tell you the same; they are brighter, consume less power, and more reliable. Your bulbs are likely clear now with a red plastic "condom" over them to make them appear red. Why don't you just remove the condoms on your existing bulbs and see if you like it better; no point in replacing your old incandecent bulbs with new incandescents. The LEDs do not need condoms.
 
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