old cessna glue removal above headliner

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c182Pilot

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c182Pilot
I've been doing a bunch of research regarding the removal of the *yellow* glue and some very minor corrosion from our late 60's 182 above the old headliner and insulation, but can't seem to find a solution that doesn't involve some sort of heavy chemical like MEK. Reading through the 93 cessna service bulletin regarding this it recommends using MEK as well.

Has anyone had success with a more natural solution to remove this old glue??

Thanks!
 
I use a forced fresh air respirator, butyl rubber gloves, and MEK.
 
c182Pilot said:
Has anyone had success with a more natural solution to remove this old glue??
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Define "natural"? But Goof-Off works and if not try some Toluene which doesn't evaporate as quick as mek. Gloves and fresh air a must. That yellow glue is not natural by the way....
 
Enamel reducer. Not much better for exposure than MEK but not as quick to evaporate so you can apply it and take a fresh air break, then come back with a flexi scraper. And yes, I've tried Goof Off and MEK. Enamel reducer works better.
 
Methyl Ethyl Badsh-t as we call it.

Enamel reducers vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. They're usually mixtures of hydrocarbon solvents: Acetone, Toluene, Xylene, Ethyl/Methyl-Benzenes. I might prefer the MEK.

WD40
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Then you can attach the new headliner with duct tape.
 
Might? No theoretical comments on my part. Been there, done that.

Use a fan to ventilate the cabin well. Wear a respirator. And good luck finding any gloves that’ll work!

Avoid ammonia based strippers or anything else that’ll require rinsing or you may create a new corrosion problem.

34ED2397-7453-4C49-BE9E-415A7A711036.jpeg
 
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Solvents in the cabin can be an explosion hazard. Closed spaces can let concentrations rise to dangerous levels. Disconnect and remove the battery first. And make sure nobody is grinding or welding or smoking anywhere near that airplane. Even a worklight can make a spark.
 
Copious amounts of GooGone soaked on a rag and held in contact with the glue for a few minutes. Scrape with a soft plastic scraper and repeat. Use in a ventilated area, but nearly as nasty for your or as bad-smelling as the harsher solvents.

Some Corrosion X on a rag to thoroughly treat the corrosion areas (unless it needs something more aggressive, in which case you may want to remove corrosion with a scrubbing pad and then treat with some zinc chromate (or similar) primer, as the protective coating on the aluminum will be removed by the scrubbing pad.

Jeff
 
Dan Thomas said:
Solvents in the cabin can be an explosion hazard. Closed spaces can let concentrations rise to dangerous levels.
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Someone who writes on a different pilot forum was apparently very badly injured in a ground fire in a light aircraft under such circumstances. The person survived.

https://www.pprune.org/biz-jets-ag-flying-ga-etc/471810-david-green-fsd.html#post6935073
It's post #4.

"David is in a critical condition in hospital, he has got through 7 hours of surgery yesterday, but faces more today."

Not much information is public and I know nothing that is not public. It was apparently not an "Aircraft accident" and since fortunately no one died either there was likely not an investigation.

Take great care.
 
Spring Ford said:
Someone who writes on a different pilot forum was apparently very badly injured in a ground fire in a light aircraft under such circumstances. The person survived.

https://www.pprune.org/biz-jets-ag-flying-ga-etc/471810-david-green-fsd.html#post6935073
It's post #4.

"David is in a critical condition in hospital, he has got through 7 hours of surgery yesterday, but faces more today."

Not much information is public and I know nothing that is not public. It was apparently not an "Aircraft accident" and since fortunately no one died either there was likely not an investigation.

Take great care.
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Was this the mechanic who removed a fuel tank panel from the bottom of a wing with an electric drill?
 
SkyDog58 said:
Was this the mechanic who removed a fuel tank panel from the bottom of a wing with an electric drill?
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I don't think so. As far as I suspect, I don't KNOW anything, it was an owner/pilot who was in the cockpit and there was a fire. Vapour from solvent or paint was mentioned in some post. Cessna twin as I recall. I got the impression that the aircraft was parked. That's it. In UK.

Ah.

https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/wiki.php?id=141391
"A 48-year old man suffered serious burns in an aircraft fire at North Weald, Essex, UK. The incident happened shortly after 7.20pm on the runway of North Weald Airfield when a twin engine aircraft caught fire.

Four fire engines were called to the blaze, which included two foam pumps from Stansted. Firefighters used foam and dry powder to put out the fire, which was extinguished just after 8.05pm. The man was put in the care of the ambulance service.

Aircraft presumably deemed at a later date to be damaged beyond economic repair, as the registration N41098 was cancelled by the FAA on March 31 3014."

Hmmm. If it had been in the process of flight (on the runway) surely there should have been an investigation. NTSB or AAIB?

https://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=74456
"The incident happened after hours and involved a parked aircraft. No other aircraft were involved."
 
http://web.archive.org/web/20130718...s/2012/01/plane-fire-at-north-weald-airfield/

"was parked at the time of the incident. ... The Air Accident Investigation Branch of the Civil Aviation Authority has been notified but has indicated that it will not be investigating the incident as there was no intention to fly. The matter is currently in the hands of Essex Police."

It would have been completely dark at 19:40 when the incident occurred.
 
In the old days, before cancer and brain damage was invented, we would have tried avgas. Then laquer thinner and/or MEK. Then maybe a torch (after breathing in the fumes of the aforementioned solvents, our judgement was questionable.)
 
Old post,but I use Touline, open the doors and use a box fan usually medium speed works best. Touline also works when installing rubber seals and headliners. Apply a coat of adhesive like Plyobond get the quart can or pint can,you can also thin the plyobond with Touline. I usually use an acid brush,apply a coat let it dry and sometimes I will apply a second coat let it dry, Touline works best if applied with a airbrush or touch up gun. Apply a coat to your rubber or upolustry part, and start attaching spray a fine coat of Touline and stick away.
 
Sundance said:
Old post,but I use Touline, open the doors and use a box fan usually medium speed works best. Touline also works when installing rubber seals and headliners. Apply a coat of adhesive like Plyobond get the quart can or pint can,you can also thin the plyobond with Touline. I usually use an acid brush,apply a coat let it dry and sometimes I will apply a second coat let it dry, Touline works best if applied with a airbrush or touch up gun. Apply a coat to your rubber or upolustry part, and start attaching spray a fine coat of Touline and stick away.
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Laquer thinner is mostly toluene.
 
Avgas (or any gasoline for that matter) is way more volatile than MEK or the other petroleum solvents (toluene, benzine, xylene, all the ingredients in the commercial things mentioned like googone or reducers or whatever). Yes lots of people have found that gasoline and things like sandpaper and scrapers are a bad combination.
 
Yeah, I've been using MEK recently. It melted the selection of gloves that I tried. I looked up a glove compatibility chart and nothing seemed to work well with MEK. Wonder if the "invisible glove" type creams would be better than nothing.

PS, young and dumb in the '70's, my hands lived in acetone as I worked in the 'glass field for years back then. Nothing better than leaning up against a mold at a certain elevation and soaking the front of your pants then run to the bathroom with the acetone for round two!
 
alfadog said:
nothing seemed to work well with MEK
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Butyl rubber gloves are the only ones that will stand up to MEK and other solvents for extended periods. The "invisible glove" you mention should never be used in direct contact with solvents but can be used with gloves.
 
alfadog said:
Yeah, I've been using MEK recently. It melted the selection of gloves that I tried. I looked up a glove compatibility chart and nothing seemed to work well with MEK. Wonder if the "invisible glove" type creams would be better than nothing.
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As mentioned in post #2, buy butyl rubber gloves. For some reason that material isn't even listed on many compatibly charts. Few places seem to stock them.
 
bnt83 said:
As mentioned in post #2, buy butyl rubber gloves. For some reason that material isn't even listed on many compatibly charts. Few places seem to stock them.
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Thanks, I will give them a shot.
 
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