{NA} Question about the backdoor {NA}

SixPapaCharlie said:
Oh God! My kids are begging for a cat but I'm quite allergic. I like cats too.
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There are supposed to be cat breeds out there that are hypoallergenic. A google search verified it.

Plus, you can get allergy treatment. Sacrifice for your kids! LOL I have had the shot series for other allergies. Not so bad, more of a hassle.
 
Could always get a sphynx cat...

The fact that the dog door overlaps the rectangular panel on the door is deeply disturbing.
 
SoonerAviator said:
They make a "door sweep" that you can attach to the inside of the storm door which can be adjusted to whatever height you need to cover for that gap. You could install in less than 10 minutes.


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:yeahthat:
 
10-Sphynx-cat.jpg


That is one bald....uh..... kitty cat.
 
No. I don't want a storm door or a bald cat.
 
The only thing wrong with touch-up aerosol texture is it's a little soft. It'll wear faster than hopper-sprayed texture in wear areas (like around TP holders, etc) and that shows as white spots in the paint. Let it dry, use a PVA primer, then paint.
 
That bottle of stuff @SixPapaCharlie posted said Homax, which is dangerously close to Lomax...

But what we are all really wondering is if he's feeling okay after pounding his backdoor in.
 
Figured it out. Prior owner had this alarm on the door so if their kids went outside, they would hear the beeping noise while the kids drowned.
I disabled it and put a safety net on the pool. I love my kids more then they love theirs.


Anyway, hard part is out of the way. Now a touch of drywall, texture, paint and trim.

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This is one of those projects I am glad I did but I will never do it again.
Messy, time consuming, and probably a 2 man job.

I am still not 100% square. Everything is level top, bottom, and sides but the last 10 percent of closing the door and it has a somewhat noticeable bit of resistance.
It wants to be open about 2 inches. Every project always has one little detail that only I will notice but I will notice it.
 
And I will admit this. I set the door in the frame and went to get the wife. A gust of wind blew it down. Time slowed down as I jumped over furniture and ran with everything I had trying to get to it before it fell. The thing landed flat on its face and the glass didn't crack or anything. I am so glad about that.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
This is one of those projects I am glad I did but I will never do it again.
Messy, time consuming, and probably a 2 man job.

I am still not 100% square. Everything is level top, bottom, and sides but the last 10 percent of closing the door and it has a somewhat noticeable bit of resistance.
It wants to be open about 2 inches. Every project always has one little detail that only I will notice but I will notice it.
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If its level top and bottom and the sides are plumb and its not square, you might have a "bad bubble." Levels that are bit off can mess up projects. The door not wanting to close the last couple inches could mean it is "hinge bound." Google it. There are easy soulutions.
 
luvflyin said:
If its level top and bottom and the sides are plumb and its not square, you might have a "bad bubble." Levels that are bit off can mess up projects. The door not wanting to close the last couple inches could mean it is "hinge bound." Google it. There are easy soulutions.
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This is great! Thanks. Looking it up.
 
You should be able to get the frame really close, plumb, square... Nail it... Then you might have to shim individual hinges to dial in the door to get a good even reveal on all three sides between door and frame.

One thing I've noticed on residential doors is that sometimes the hinges actually have a little slop that can become a complicating factor in getting it just right.

Edit to add: if it is truly hinge bound and it looks like shimming is going to require a substantial amount of shimmage, sometimes it is better to just bend the hinges if done carefully and squarely.
 
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So everything is good there is one part at the top on the lock side where it's got a bit of a gap.
Is that something that I can fix with hinge shims?
I guess the terminology is that it is not out of square but twisted? Seals perfectly everywhere else.

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You either need to bring that corner of the frame in, or the diagonal opposite corner out. Maybe both. You can try doing that by fiddling with the hinges, but I think I would pull the trim off and beat on the jamb legs until it was dead on and then put the trim back on.
 
SaltH2OHokie said:
You either need to bring that corner of the frame in, or the diagonal opposite corner out. Maybe both. You can try doing that by fiddling with the hinges, but I think I would pull the trim off and beat on the jamb legs until it was dead on and then put the trim back on.
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Ok. I've got a BFH. I'll give it a shot.
 
Matthew said:
Uhhh, unless you have a very tall dog, I think there's something wrong.
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If you train him right, he can just jump through. Also keeps the riff-raff out that way.
 
luvflyin said:
Was the door closed when you shimmed and nailed the jambs in?
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Shimmed yes.
Nailed, not possible.

I did it at night. Should have done it inn day time so I could see if any daylight was visible.

I'm re doing it today. Hopefully I can get it even
 
Cirrus drivers shouldn't be doing these things.

Better to have added to your roofer ad-ons. I'm sure the hail storm damaged the original door. :(
 
Ravioli said:
Cirrus drivers shouldn't be doing these things.

Better to have added to your roofer ad-ons. I'm sure the hail storm damaged the original door. :(
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Hey! Us nose draggers have to stick together ;)
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
Shimmed yes.
Nailed, not possible.

I did it at night. Should have done it inn day time so I could see if any daylight was visible.

I'm re doing it today. Hopefully I can get it even
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There should be room to send nails in through the jamb, on the "out side" of the door, into the stud. Measure things, you'll see. Have the door closed when you do it. One nail top and bottom, each side, is enough for starters. Then you can open the door to put in more. But be careful not distort things when you put in more. Don't sink those first nails all the way at first. Leave a little head sticking out so you can get them out easily if you need to "reset." Prehung doors usually come with spacers between the door and the jambs to keep you from compressing the jambs together and pinching the door. They also do a very good job of letting the "door" keep the "jambs" square. You keep those in, with the door closed until you have set the whole thing in the rough opening and have it secured enough so things don't shift. Beware of letting the jambs "twist." You want them parallel in both dimensions. The spacers will do that along the long vertical dimension. The upper jamb and the threshold will keep them parallel, front to rear, at the top and bottom, but it's possible to put in a little twist in the middle with over aggressive shimming.
 
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I have pulled all the screws and nails out. I think I can tap parts of it with a mallet and get it back where everything is aligned.
I need to cut all the expanding foam. That stuff is doing a great job of making it immobile.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
I have pulled all the screws and nails out. I think I can tap parts of it with a mallet and get it back where everything is aligned.
I need to cut all the expanding foam. That stuff is doing a great job of making it immobile.
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Yeah. And as it expands it can exert enough pressure to move things a little. Get things set and working right before you squirt that stuff in
 
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