N/A When to seal asphalt driveway?

[ScottM]

JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket

Oh, and my daily driver is a 1999 Wrangler with over 140,000 miles on the clock. Runs great, just have to maintain them.

My Jeep runs great and has not ever really had anything catastrophic go wrong on it.

In the 14+ years and 170,000 miles I have had to replace wear items, a starter, water pump, rear springs, thermostat, one sway bar clamp, several front u-joints and the rear seals. But the engine runs great. That Chrylser 4.0l is bullet proof!

 

[Ghery]

That Chrylser 4.0l is bullet proof!

Amen to that. It's like a Timex watch - it takes a licking, and keeps on ticking! The old Dodge 318 V-8 was the same way.

 

[Lawreston]

I'll wait until next year to seal mine. This(from August) should hold me for the winter.

HR

 

[mikea]

I'll wait until next year to seal mine. This(from August) should hold me for the winter.

HR

I'm pretty convinced I'll never seal it again. The cracks are still open, although the guy said he'd come back if I have problems.

I'll save up to dig the thing up and install pavers in a few years.

 

[gismo]

I'm pretty convinced I'll never seal it again. The cracks are still open, although the guy he'd comeback if I have problems.

Yeah, but it looks better than before, right?

 

[Everskyward]

I'm pretty convinced I'll never seal it again. The cracks are still open, although the guy he'd comeback if I have problems.

Just grind it up and get a recycled asphalt driveway like mine. I haven't done anything to it in 15 years other than kill the weeds that are hardy enough to take root in it.

 

[mikea]

Yeah, but it looks better than before, right?

Sure. I'll have the warm felling how good it looks under the snow...we're supposed to be getting TODAY.

I suppose the seal will keep more aggregate from disappearing.

I'm keeping the "rope" up across the driveway for a while to deter those using my official village turnaround. Anybody wanna bet me that somebody drives into it and breaks it?

BTW, I hafta make one more mower/blower run with the tractor and then remove the mower deck and mount the snow blower. We have no idea if I have enough parts to make it work. I need the weight kit, too.

 

[gismo]

BTW, I hafta make one more mower/blower run with the tractor and then remove the mower deck and mount the snow blower. We have no idea if I have enough parts to make it work. I need the weight kit, too.

Weights are easier to remove for the summer if you want, but you could just put fluid in the tires. I use RV antifreeze but there's a product designed exclusively for this that's denser.

 

[flyingcheesehead]

Proofread, son.

Oh Ted, you're just happy that there's finally someone here that even you can call "son."

BTW, I hafta make one more mower/blower run with the tractor and then remove the mower deck and mount the snow blower. We have no idea if I have enough parts to make it work. I need the weight kit, too.

FWIW, you don't "need" the weight kit. I've never used one, though the tractor does get chains when the snowblower goes on.

I was out blowing leaves earlier and the mower threw a blade. I guess I get to fix that tomorrow.

Weights are easier to remove for the summer if you want, but you could just put fluid in the tires. I use RV antifreeze but there's a product designed exclusively for this that's denser.

Hmmm... A very interesting idea. Do you still fill it through the normal valve? Do you position the valve near the top and then add some liquid, remove some air, add some liquid, remove some air, etc.? How much air do you leave in the tires, or is it all liquid?

 

[gismo]

Hmmm... A very interesting idea. Do you still fill it through the normal valve? Do you position the valve near the top and then add some liquid, remove some air, add some liquid, remove some air, etc.? How much air do you leave in the tires, or is it all liquid?

You definitely must leave some air in the tire, if it were full of liquid it would be rock hard and hitting a bump might blow the tire off the rim. But unless you filled the tire when lying flat on ground (rim parallel to the ground) you won't be able to overfill it because the valve stem is well below the top of the tire.

I made a simple filling rig that attaches to a small pump I had lying around. The rig includes a screw on fitting for the valve stem a tee and two valves. One valve runs to the pump and the other to a small bleeder tube that runs into an empty bottle. First I let all the air out of the tire, then I pump fluid in until the pressure builds up. At that point I close the pump valve and open the bleeder valve until the pressure drops back to a couple PSI. It took something like 20 gallons to do each tire on my tractor and I think had to do the bleeding about every 4 gallons (less often at first, more towards the end). I had tire rotated so the valve stem was as high as possible and the weight off the wheel during the fill.