Kitchen oven problems

Albany Tom said:
:) I do NOT suggest running a gas line into the electric oven.

But seriously, to fix this, I think the next step is to replace or repair that control board. To put it in airplane terms, your engine might be OK, but if the constant speed prop doesn't work and is leaking oil, you kind of have to address that before expecting a successful take off.
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Yeah - I’ve been too busy to put any effort into it today. I think the best thing is to replace the control board. I might be able to scrounge up some replacement parts, or I might be able to take it to the local repair shop and then wait for them to scrounge up replacement parts and then they might tell me they can’t fix it after all. And while all that drags on we don’t have an oven. Getting a refurb controller on order might cost a few more dollars but we can cook again.
 
Sounds like a solid plan... Switching in a new controller should be simple, you've probably had it in and out a dozen times already. :)

Double check that you have solid continuity between the switched bake element terminal and the bake output wire from board, but it sounds 95% to me that it's one or both of those relays on the board.
 
Albany Tom said:
Sounds like a solid plan... Switching in a new controller should be simple, you've probably had it in and out a dozen times already. :)

Double check that you have solid continuity between the switched bake element terminal and the bake output wire from board, but it sounds 95% to me that it's one or both of those relays on the board.
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I can check that easily enough.

yep - I have good solid continuity from the relay terminal to the heating element.

edit:

I'll start looking for a new(ish) controller. I found one the other day, but I wasn't looking very hard, there might be a few out there I can look at
 
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Got hold of a local repair company, I found them on the interwebs and they looked like they could do the job, then I noticed they are just around the corner from me.

I asked about that specific board, and the answer was, "Oh, that one, yeah, we fix those all the time." They have relays in stock. For $120 they replace the relays, replace the capacitors, re-flow all solder connections, test, and give a 1 yr warranty. They'll have to charge extra if there are parts like the LED or needing reprogram an EPROM, or some other proprietary thing like that. They did say their success rate is 95% and up.

I'll be taking that control panel in next week.
 
That's a good deal. Without being familiar with the process it would take a lot longer to try to fix, and there's always the risk of breaking the plastic tabs.
 
Albany Tom said:
That's a good deal. Without being familiar with the process it would take a lot longer to try to fix, and there's always the risk of breaking the plastic tabs.
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If I charged by the hour, we could have bought a new oven by now.

I just need to take it all apart one more time, remove the control panel from the front touch-panel of the oven, then tape off or wire-nut off all the exposed connectors so we can use the cooktop that's on the same circuit.

I ran into another "feature" this afternoon. After taking things apart one more time to verify continuity between the bake relay and the element, I put it together and then turn on the oven. I let it heat up, of course the bake element won't come on, but the broil element will. After a few minutes the whole control panel had shut off - no keypresses did anything and the display was blank. There was still power to the oven, the light came on and I was able to jumper past the hi-temp switch and get the control panel cooling fan to come on. I had to cycle the breaker to reset the controller. I've never seen it do that before.

I really hope the repair shop works out, it will buy us a little time to get the rest of the kitchen remodel in motion. Since now we know that oven timer is running out, it should get us to move more quickly.
 
If it's just a couple of days I'd consider just doing the take out thing. If not, be real careful taping up the wires, especially if any are sharp.
 
Albany Tom said:
If it's just a couple of days I'd consider just doing the take out thing. If not, be real careful taping up the wires, especially if any are sharp.
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Will see how it goes.


almost all have the disconnects terminals for attaching to spades on the control board, and most of those have insulated covers. There is one Molex connector, and there is a flex membrane connector from the touch panel. I think there are only three that aren't already insulated, one is the ground and the other two I will have to look at the drawing to figure out.
 
.

More useless information from me .

I am very mechanically inclined but suck at electronics

My cottage has a huge heavy 1950's era refrigerator that quit working .... It is such a heavy beast I was reluctant to move it .... It had a simple on-off thermostatic control that was worn out and contacts were all eroded.

"Hot wired" it , plugged it in , determined the motor and compressor still worked fine .... put a good quality 20 amp timer on the wall plug .... put a thermometer inside and experimented.

1/2 hour on and 2 hours off worked perfect and inside temps were very consistent ... much better than the old system.

.
 
:) I'm just thinking that after all this work, if the open oven port ends up electrocuting the neighbor kid who likes to play with things, we're both going to feel like jerks. You know your airfield better than I do.
 
A Martin said:
.

More useless information from me .

I am very mechanically inclined but suck at electronics

My cottage has a huge heavy 1950's era refrigerator that quit working .... It is such a heavy beast I was reluctant to move it .... It had a simple on-off thermostatic control that was worn out and contacts were all eroded.

"Hot wired" it , plugged it in , determined the motor and compressor still worked fine .... put a good quality 20 amp timer on the wall plug .... put a thermometer inside and experimented.

1/2 hour on and 2 hours off worked perfect and inside temps were very consistent ... much better than the old system.

.
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The only problem with those old beasts that last forever, besides their weight, is that you could buy a new one with the cost of the electricity they use in a few months. (Well, maybe a year or two).
 
Albany Tom said:
:) I'm just thinking that after all this work, if the open oven port ends up electrocuting the neighbor kid who likes to play with things, we're both going to feel like jerks. You know your airfield better than I do.
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No unattended neighbor kids allowed in MY FBO!

The control panel mounts to the back of the front oven panel. When I pull the control board module off the front panel will get mounted back in place to cover the exposed wiring.

Yes, I’ve see what high current can do when it gets loose, but thanks for the reminder.
 
Picked up the repaired oven controller a few minutes ago. I’ll install it this evening when I have time.

The tech said the relay contacts were so oxidized they were failing under load. I had tried cleaning them, but they must have been too far gone. He replaced all the capacitors and tested it. There’s a one year warranty from today. Not bad for $120+tax.
 
Great! I was betting it was the relay contacts. Smart and nice of them to replace the caps. Electrolytics dry out over time. So if my math (really just guessing) is right then each of your family members has lost about 15 lbs from malnutrition. Or....you can now recognize at least 3 different food delivery drivers and/or wait staff 50' away.
 
Albany Tom said:
Great! I was betting it was the relay contacts. Smart and nice of them to replace the caps. Electrolytics dry out over time. So if my math (really just guessing) is right then each of your family members has lost about 15 lbs from malnutrition. Or....you can now recognize at least 3 different food delivery drivers and/or wait staff 50' away.
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The crock pot has been getting a workout.
 
Albany Tom said:
I'm leaning with Paul on this. Bad solder joint sounds highly unlikely...the board doesn't flex, and this is a high current part. It would've failed long ago if it were soldered incorrectly. The relay contacts, on the other hand, are a wear item and visibly burned. See if you can track down a replacement relay, the contacts are most likely shot. Relay is pretty easy to swap out if you can find a suitable replacement. Original is listed as obsolete.

update - I think I may have found a replacement for the double throw relay - https://www.digikey.com/en/products...y-potter-brumfield-relays/T9AS5L12-12/1128606

I think that's close to, if not exactly, a drop in part.
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I noticed they replaced both relays with the same DT relay.

I didn’t take the repaired controller apart or look closely enough to see if they clipped off a lead to convert one of the DT relays into a ST. But it works.

It might be my imagination, but it seems the oven heats up faster now.


53DCC224-D06E-4289-88EC-2339F370D3BE.jpeg
 
It makes sense for them to just carry one part, as it'll work for both. The manufacturer probably saved a dollar or so on using two.

If it does heat faster, it's because the old one was arcing a LOT. But I think more likely it's just a lot faster than the toaster over/crock pot... :)
 
Albany Tom said:
It makes sense for them to just carry one part, as it'll work for both. The manufacturer probably saved a dollar or so on using two.

If it does heat faster, it's because the old one was arcing a LOT. But I think more likely it's just a lot faster than the toaster over/crock pot... :)
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I could definitely see them arc when they switched, I was able to remove the covers to watch.

They were pretty worn out.

The pix are in this post:

https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/kitchen-oven-problems.134160/page-2#post-3144114
 
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