I should take up car detailing as a side gig

[RJM62]

They use Magnesium Chloride here which is sticky and nasty and horrible and yeah, I DO get that stuff off of the cars at least once a week during snow season when they're using that crap.

At least a run through an automated car wash as a bare minimum but I prefer to wand it so I can get it off all the undercarriage bits.

White sticky corrosive film all over the cars after the snowstorms. Ugh.

I guess the stuff is cheaper to get from the Great Salt Lake than getting the other more common Chloride types from salt mines in Kansas. That or someone in CDOT has a brother in Utah. LOL.

Over here they use either salt, mag chloride, or sand, depending on the road, location, and amount of snow or ice. Different portions of different roads are treated differently. For example, on "my" hill, most of it usually gets sand, but two curves of it usually get salt. But if the snow is heavy, the whole road gets salt. Other places always get salt or always get sand, and a few always get mag chloride.

The complicating agency in all of this is the NYCDEP, which owns a lot of reservoirs up here. They really don't want the local governments using any salt at all, but they have limited authority to impose their will on non-DEP areas within the watershed. The way it all settles out is that sand is used except when there's a good reason to use salt, and mag chloride is used in certain areas based on wildlife considerations.

In the end, it really doesn't matter much what they use. The snow-removal here is phenomenal. It's a very visible service upon which many people base their votes come election time, so it tends to be done very quickly and very well.

Rich

 

[CC268]

You don't get paid for the clean cars.

Actually not "completely" true - many of the high end detailers who get paid the big bucks work on very high end cars that are actually relatively clean, but need some serious paint correction. A fairly popular service is a "new car" detail. Despite what most think, that new car you just picked up off the lot could potentially be full of iron contamination (causes clear coat degradation over time) and swirls and scratches from the guy at the dealership who washes all the cars for $5 an hour. Iron contamination comes from brakes on trains/trucks that are hauling these things. Sadly many times the paint on a new car is far from perfect. Of course to most it still looks great.

But yes you are correct - as a detailer you might have to deal with some nasty cars!

 

[CC268]

Okay, thanks. Looks great. I'll look into it.

Rich

Optimum makes GREAT products.

 

[Ted]

Maybe not where you are, since they figure all you guys drive farm tractors and semi tractors with chains and stuff, but in town they do. The last couple winters have been pretty dry, so they have a good surplus of salt and any time there is a hint of ice in the forecast, they'll be out with the salt and spray trucks to pretreat for the ice that doesn't come after all.

I was saying it halfway jokingly. They do salt the roads here, but from what I can tell most vehicles older vehicles here don't show nearly the rust that I typically saw back east. I know the couple of winters I've lived through have been pretty easy, but keep in mind I was raised in the northeast. There was a whole lot more snow (and salt) in NY, PA, and other places I frequented such as Chicago, upstate NY, Massachusetts, etc. Even Cincinnati had noticeably worse snow than what I've been seeing here.

Even compared to Nebraska, the amount of snow we get is much lower.

 

[weilke]

But yes you are correct - as a detailer you might have to deal with some nasty cars!

That's how it was meant. $180 to vacuum and wipe down a car that is driven by a neatnik and was detailed just a month ago is easy money. The same $180 if you ever encounter the mixture Kellogs Mini-Wheats (with gluten!!) and orange juice is hard earned money.

 

[CC268]

That's how it was meant. $180 to vacuum and wipe down a car that is driven by a neatnik and was detailed just a month ago is easy money. The same $180 if you ever encounter the mixture Kellogs Mini-Wheats (with gluten!!) and orange juice is hard earned money.

Lmao yea I agree...some of the details I've seen posted on AutoGeek are just downright disgusting. Looks like someone threw up on the entire interior. You'd have to have some sort of quoting system so you don't get killed by jobs like that (assuming you use some sort of flat rate fee).

 

[denverpilot]

I suppose I should mention that I haven't found any more peckerations in the Subaru for a number of months now. I almost miss the little guys showing up from under the seats.

 

[Mistake Not...]

Staying on top of it makes a huge difference.

It takes me 90 minutes, inside and out IF I haven't let it go. Take yer damn trash in the house with you when you go. Don't let candy bars sit in the cup holders. Cup holders are NOT coin holders. Coins seem to either have or attract a slimy, sticky gunk after a few days in a hot car. It doesn't all have to be done at once.... I'll usually either vacuum OR wipe down the inside, but not both. Glass always gets done, because I loves me some clear glass.

I'll never wax again. About every 3 months (just because I love the dipped-in-glass-look) I'll spray the whole thing with a part alchohol, part distilled water mixture, strips EVERYTHING off. Then wipe on a paint sealant (I like Blackfire). 15 minutes total.

Oh, and for cryin' out loud. WIPE THE BUGS OFF. Like the next day. Latest.

I moved recently and couldn't wash for a while, so now I have to deal with water spots. Anyone recommend a good water spot remover? I'm leaning toward CarPro's...

 

[spiderweb]

It looks great! I just bought some new Armour All wipes. All I do is the car wash, vacuum and wipe, and it is obvious how much better real detailing is!

 

[CC268]

It looks great! I just bought some new Armour All wipes. All I do is the car wash, vacuum and wipe, and it is obvious how much better real detailing is!

I can't stand Armour All...probably the worst consumer grade product for anything lol. It contains silicone, absolute dust magnet, greasy, etc...not to rain on your parade...if you like it then keep using it.

If you want something dirt cheap that is actually quite good then pick up some Meguiar's Quick Interior Detail spray.

 

[CC268]

Staying on top of it makes a huge difference.

It takes me 90 minutes, inside and out IF I haven't let it go. Take yer damn trash in the house with you when you go. Don't let candy bars sit in the cup holders. Cup holders are NOT coin holders. Coins seem to either have or attract a slimy, sticky gunk after a few days in a hot car. It doesn't all have to be done at once.... I'll usually either vacuum OR wipe down the inside, but not both. Glass always gets done, because I loves me some clear glass.

I'll never wax again. About every 3 months (just because I love the dipped-in-glass-look) I'll spray the whole thing with a part alchohol, part distilled water mixture, strips EVERYTHING off. Then wipe on a paint sealant (I like Blackfire). 15 minutes total.

Oh, and for cryin' out loud. WIPE THE BUGS OFF. Like the next day. Latest.

I moved recently and couldn't wash for a while, so now I have to deal with water spots. Anyone recommend a good water spot remover? I'm leaning toward CarPro's...

Yea great advice - if you do a weekly or biweekly wash it makes a huge difference.

Heck if your gonna strip the whole car with the alcohol mixture you ought to apply a coating like McKee's Paint Coating. Very simply to use and lasts much longer than any wax/sealant (although Blackfire is great). If you keep your car garaged you may be able to get 2 years out of a paint coating. Although coatings like CQuartz and a few others are very good, they are tougher to apply whereas the McKees is very simple.

Some people actually prefer wax/sealants over coatings though as they enjoy waxing their vehicle on a semi regular basis.

 

[CC268]

By the way I totally forgot to post my quick detailing guide - I will post it tonight.

 

[spiderweb]

I can't stand Armour All...probably the worst consumer grade product for anything lol. It contains silicone, absolute dust magnet, greasy, etc...not to rain on your parade...if you like it then keep using it.

If you want something dirt cheap that is actually quite good then pick up some Meguiar's Quick Interior Detail spray.

Are you talking about the interior wipes? And leather wipes?

 

[CC268]

Are you talking about the interior wipes? And leather wipes?

Yes...anything Armour All...spray, wipes, etc. Not trying to give you a hard time, just being honest.

I had a 2007 F-150 that I frequently used Armor All on the interior. One day I noticed that the paint on my air bag dash was starting to flake a little. Did some research and it turns out a lot of folks had issues with this - all related to Armor All use on vinyl or painted plastic. This wasn't just Ford specific. I stopped using it as they clearly had some issues with Armor All causing various forms of damage over time. I won't touch the stuff. I believe they even had a law suit over this.

I believe they have changed their formula since. Still won't use it.

 

[spiderweb]

Are you talking about the interior wipes?

And leather wipes?

Yes...anything Armour All...spray, wipes, etc. Not trying to give you a hard time, just being honest.

I had a 2007 F-150 that I frequently used Armor All on the interior. One day I noticed that the paint on my air bag dash was starting to flake a little. Did some research and it turns out a lot of folks had issues with this - all related to Armor All use on vinyl or painted plastic. This wasn't just Ford specific. I stopped using it as they clearly had some issues with Armor All causing various forms of damage over time. I won't touch the stuff. I believe they even had a law suit over this.

I believe they have changed their formula since. Still won't use it.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[CC268]

And leather wipes?

Thanks for the heads up!

Oh for the love of God please don't use Armor All leather on your nice leather hahaha. If it says Armour All on it I'd pass but that's just my opinion.

 

[ktup-flyer]

I'd go Griots over Megs for OTC stuff. Adams Polishes is my go-to for most stuff that I don't need right away.

 

[CC268]

I'd go Griots over Megs for OTC stuff. Adams Polishes is my go-to for most stuff that I don't need right away.

Griots is nice because I noticed they started selling it at Oreillys and AutoZone and stuff. Great stuff. I'd probably take them over the consumer grade Megs stuff. Wouldn't take it over the professional grade Megs though.

Quite frankly anyone who makes professional grade product you can't go wrong with. Doesn't matter if it's Adams, Griots, Pinnacle, etc

 

[CC268]

And leather wipes?

Thanks for the heads up!

Not sure if you have an Auto Zone around you, but if you do see if you can find some of the Griot's Garage product. They make multiple leather cleaners/conditioners. A few 3 in 1 products, others are dedicated cleaners or conditioners. Check them out. Probably the best bet for over the counter without ordering online.

I personally use the following for leather care, but I realize not everyone wants to pay the price for a gallon of product. It is absolutely amazing though and smells heavenly. I use it on my Cherokee's interior.

https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-d181-detailer-leather-cleaner-1gallon.html
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-d180-detailer-leather-cleaner-conditioner-1gallon.html

Meguiar's APC is probably the best all purpose cleaner for detailing on the market as well. It is a concentrate so a gallon goes a LONG ways.
http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/d10101-all-purpose-cleaner/

Anyways...I realize I am throwing up all this info, but maybe it will help some folks along the way.

 

[spiderweb]

Not sure if you have an Auto Zone around you, but if you do see if you can find some of the Griot's Garage product. They make multiple leather cleaners/conditioners. A few 3 in 1 products, others are dedicated cleaners or conditioners. Check them out. Probably the best bet for over the counter without ordering online.

I personally use the following for leather care, but I realize not everyone wants to pay the price for a gallon of product. It is absolutely amazing though and smells heavenly. I use it on my Cherokee's interior.

https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-d181-detailer-leather-cleaner-1gallon.html
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-d180-detailer-leather-cleaner-conditioner-1gallon.html

Meguiar's APC is probably the best all purpose cleaner for detailing on the market as well. It is a concentrate so a gallon goes a LONG ways.
http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/d10101-all-purpose-cleaner/

Anyways...I realize I am throwing up all this info, but maybe it will help some folks along the way.

I really appreciate it. My mother has a Land Rover and it deserves nice treatment.

 

[CC268]

Here is a link to a few detailing related documents that you may or may not find useful. The Detailing document is based upon Mike Phillip's book "The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine"...so I didn't just pull this stuff out of thin air. I am sure most will find it to be a bit silly, but you might find the order of operations to be useful, etc.

The other document has some tips on good microfiber towels (as well as how to properly wash microfiber towels - most people have no idea how to properly wash microfibers). Just a tip with microfiber towels - you ruin the fibers if you dry microfiber towels. You can dry them for 10-20 minutes on LOW heat. Also, don't use any detergent with fabric softener, etc as that ruins the fibers as well. Just plain detergent with no additives.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3CKvypp2vhaUFdvbjNkai1ReUk?usp=sharing

I was hoping to go through both documents and see if anything needed updating, but I am short on time right now.

 

[spiderweb]

Here is a link to a few detailing related documents that you may or may not find useful. The Detailing document is based upon Mike Phillip's book "The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine"...so I didn't just pull this stuff out of thin air. I am sure most will find it to be a bit silly, but you might find the order of operations to be useful, etc.

The other document has some tips on good microfiber towels (as well as how to properly wash microfiber towels - most people have no idea how to properly wash microfibers). Just a tip with microfiber towels - you ruin the fibers if you dry microfiber towels. You can dry them for 10-20 minutes on LOW heat. Also, don't use any detergent with fabric softener, etc as that ruins the fibers as well. Just plain detergent with no additives.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3CKvypp2vhaUFdvbjNkai1ReUk?usp=sharing

I was hoping to go through both documents and see if anything needed updating, but I am short on time right now.

Thanks again!

 

[CC268]

Thanks again!

No problem always willing to help if there are any questions

 

[ktup-flyer]

I use Adams Shampoo, APC, and Detail Spray. Leatherique leather rejuvenator, and Lexol conditioner. All the CarPro stuff. Regular old Megs 105/205. Adams and Nanoskin clay. Adams 10" wash pads. Adams drying towels. Adams buckets/grit guards/gamma seals. Adams H2O Guard and Gloss... I think that covers all my crap.

 

[mscard88]

No problem always willing to help if there are any questions

Alright, what works for getting love bug residue off? Every time I go down to FL I get those horny bastards all over the front end. Thanks CC.

 

[ktup-flyer]

Alright, what works for getting love bug residue off? Every time I go down to FL I get those horny bastards all over the front end. Thanks CC.

Soak with detail spray and it should just wipe off with a microfiber. That's what I do, but I keep it sealed/waxed