I am turning into a car mechanic

Of course! The impact wrench is for the "untorqueing" process. And it does work wonders at that. On our Ford Ranger it took the impact gun plus a shot with the MAP torch to get the rear lugs off. Tire shops unfortunately *don't* seem to use a torque wrench they just whale on it until it is way over tight, and then a season of road salt on top of that... :mad2:

Makes you wonder what would happen if I actually got a flat tire and had to change the wheel by the side of the road. Anything that doesn't loosen after a few minutes of tough love with an impact gun is going to be a royal pain with the "wrench" they supply with the tire change kit.

I broke a 10" piece of tubing on the end of a breaker bar trying to get the lugs off of my JETTA on night. I almost drove to discount tire and punched the guy in the face.
 
I'm hoping you follow that impact wrench with a good, accurate torque wrench!

Calibrated torque limiting extensions are what your car is put together with at the factory, either that or rotation measurement. Torque wrenches are actually the second best method for tightening bolts. Measuring rotation after contact is the best way.
 
I broke a 10" piece of tubing on the end of a breaker bar trying to get the lugs off of my JETTA on night. I almost drove to discount tire and punched the guy in the face.


Stuck lug nuts are simple to get loose, put the handle against the ground and drive an inch or two, backwards for drivers side, forward on passenger.
 
Calibrated torque limiting extensions are what your car is put together with at the factory, either that or rotation measurement. Torque wrenches are actually the second best method for tightening bolts. Measuring rotation after contact is the best way.

Yes we used a torque wrench. Yes I did that in a criss cross pattern.
 
Calibrated torque limiting extensions are what your car is put together with at the factory, either that or rotation measurement. Torque wrenches are actually the second best method for tightening bolts. Measuring rotation after contact is the best way.

We used those at Jiffy Lube. I never trusted them. What I do trust is the satisfying click of my torque wrench!
 
The cheap click type torque wrenches do need recalibration from time to time. Easiest way is to hang weights from them.

Good ones don't need it nearly as much. Often years.
 
Stuck lug nuts are simple to get loose, put the handle against the ground and drive an inch or two, backwards for drivers side, forward on passenger.

I wish I had known that trick a few years ago. A friend was driving us back to our hotel in Tel Aviv when he had a flat. Took forever to finally break those lug nuts free. That would have saved some significant time.
 
I wish I had known that trick a few years ago. A friend was driving us back to our hotel in Tel Aviv when he had a flat. Took forever to finally break those lug nuts free. That would have saved some significant time.

Even more annoying is when you can't get th rim off after all the lug nuts are removed. This was always a problem with my sunfire. One day I just got sick of it..loosened all the lug nuts..then swerved back in forth in a parking lot until the damn thing popped off.
 
Even more annoying is when you can't get th rim off after all the lug nuts are removed. This was always a problem with my sunfire. One day I just got sick of it..loosened all the lug nuts..then swerved back in forth in a parking lot until the damn thing popped off.

Now there's the $2 solution!
 
Even more annoying is when you can't get th rim off after all the lug nuts are removed. This was always a problem with my sunfire. One day I just got sick of it..loosened all the lug nuts..then swerved back in forth in a parking lot until the damn thing popped off.

when that happened to me i just called AAA. it took a BIG sledge hammer
 
A hangar or a sweet garage is like the ultimate man-cave.

Why does it always have to be called a 'man cave'? Our 60x40 pole barn is my 'woman cave'. lol. If I had the $$$$, it would be done, but, little by little, its getting there. I just wish I had room for a small paint booth.
 
Heh well I guess it's a man cave because only dudes hang out in it? If only women hung out in the cave, it would be a woman cave! Hahaha
 
Why does it always have to be called a 'man cave'? Our 60x40 pole barn is my 'woman cave'. lol. If I had the $$$$, it would be done, but, little by little, its getting there. I just wish I had room for a small paint booth.

Because women have powder rooms.;)
 
Not my wife. Her idea of a woman cave would be a walk-in-closet the size of a two-car garage, directly off the bedroom. ;)
 
Not my wife. Her idea of a woman cave would be a walk-in-closet the size of a two-car garage, directly off the bedroom. ;)

And the contents that would make Imelda Marcos jealous?
 
Why does it always have to be called a 'man cave'? Our 60x40 pole barn is my 'woman cave'. lol. If I had the $$$$, it would be done, but, little by little, its getting there. I just wish I had room for a small paint booth.


Because there are very few women like you, and women typically feminize the entire house as they see it as singularly "their turf" leaving the garage, heater room, or hangar to the man. Thus the term "man cave".
 
Of course! The impact wrench is for the "untorqueing" process. And it does work wonders at that. On our Ford Ranger it took the impact gun plus a shot with the MAP torch to get the rear lugs off. Tire shops unfortunately *don't* seem to use a torque wrench they just whale on it until it is way over tight, and then a season of road salt on top of that... :mad2:

Anytime I have tire work done, I carry my torque wrench and a big lug wrench as well. After they're done, I drive around the corner, find a parking lot, and loosen all the lugs and re-torque to spec. Yes, anal, but on some car models improper lug torque will kill brake rotors.
 
Anytime I have tire work done, I carry my torque wrench and a big lug wrench as well. After they're done, I drive around the corner, find a parking lot, and loosen all the lugs and re-torque to spec. Yes, anal, but on some car models improper lug torque will kill brake rotors.

Yeah? Which ones? :popcorn:
 
I don't think it's so much the torque, but not tightening the lugs in the proper pattern. Just going in a circle is bad, or so I've been told. I've always just used the procedure recommended in the owner's manual, which seems to mostly be the "star" pattern. Haven't warped a rotor yet.
 
Rotors warp due to brakes dragging, whether from mechanical defect or a drivers foot on the brake. It's a heat issue. Unless the wheel flange is bent, lug torque has nothing to do with it.
 
Anytime I have tire work done, I carry my torque wrench and a big lug wrench as well. After they're done, I drive around the corner, find a parking lot, and loosen all the lugs and re-torque to spec. Yes, anal, but on some car models improper lug torque will kill brake rotors.

I watched a shop snap three bolts off another car then they came back 10 minutes later with a torque wrench and snapped another one off. (Idgets don't know how to torque a bolt) Then they came out with a huge jack to lift the front of my motorhome and put it under the tie rod to lift instead of on the huge solid I-beam lift point. We got into a big argument over that. Right then I called it quits on anyone touching anything except the wheel and tire and they only touch that because I don't have the tools to pull the tire.

I now take the wheels off and take just the wheels into to the shop and watch them like a starving vulture watches a mouse. If I can't pull the wheels elsewhere, I pull the wheels right in their parking lot.
 
Because there are very few women like you,

That's what the Snap On guy says.


and women typically feminize the entire house as they see it as singularly "their turf" leaving the garage, heater room, or hangar to the man. Thus the term "man cave".

I've seen how some women 'feminize' their houses. blech. Although, I do have my sewing room. I guess you could call it feminine. One purpleish wall, Some Monet prints, three Bernina sewing machines and a Janome Coverlock.

One wall has nothing but fabric hanging from it. And that can be tempered by the opposite wall which has AAA maps, 8 m/c helmets and my welding helmet hanging from it. :D
 
Garage built into house, new roof, can't raise garage any higher. No room for lifting to double the car space. Also, the garage used to have no cars and lots of machines (Mill, Lathe, CNC etc)

So further down the road, make room for both:

shop8.jpg


Back wall, there's a mill on the right, and a lathe on the left. The lift made things real easy when I was replacing the bearings on the Spitfire the other day and realized I need new axles. Drive the Ford coupe project out underneath to move it to the barn, then patch the Spit back together enough to roll it forward while waiting for parts to travel across the country. Freed up the lift so my daughter could change her oil and rotate the tires last night prior to today's trip to the beach with friends. In the process, we discovered a bad tie rod end. Quick call to NAPA just before closing, get an order in to the warehouse for the overnight truck, leave everything in place on the lift. NAPA manager meets her their this morning at 6:45, by 7:30 am she is done and back on the road.

tierod2.jpg


Yes, I AM proud of my 17 year old! :D
 
Boraxo powder works good for cleaning your hands.

What works even better is the heavy duty disposible rubber gloves roofers use to keep tar off their hands. I buy those by the box (about $15) at the hardware store.

Don't bother with latex or nitrile. Your first snag on a bolt will rip them.

Why do you bother getting rotors resurfaced? New rotors generally cost about the same, and it saves a trip. Well, maybe it's a shorter trip for you. For me, it's 20 minutes each way.

You're doing brake jobs and oil changes now. Next, you graduate to the cooling system, belts, hoses and vacuum lines. It's only a matter of time before your first transmission rebuild (it's not as hard as it sounds, but it is time consuming and can be messy).

Believe me, it's really rewarding when you replace your first rear main seal for $20. Or find your own electrical gremlin and fix it for pennies.
 
when that happened to me i just called AAA. it took a BIG sledge hammer

And a new rim!

Rims are shockingly easy to bend.

You can solve a lot of automotive problems with a BFH, but this doesn't seem to be the best candidate....

The idea about driving on the lug wrench will work, but (a), DO NOT get it backwards, and (b) be prepared to replace broken studs.
 
What works even better is the heavy duty disposible rubber gloves roofers use to keep tar off their hands. I buy those by the box (about $15) at the hardware store.

Don't bother with latex or nitrile. Your first snag on a bolt will rip them.

Why do you bother getting rotors resurfaced? New rotors generally cost about the same, and it saves a trip. Well, maybe it's a shorter trip for you. For me, it's 20 minutes each way.

You're doing brake jobs and oil changes now. Next, you graduate to the cooling system, belts, hoses and vacuum lines. It's only a matter of time before your first transmission rebuild (it's not as hard as it sounds, but it is time consuming and can be messy).

Believe me, it's really rewarding when you replace your first rear main seal for $20. Or find your own electrical gremlin and fix it for pennies.

I've never changed oil (yet). The brakes - I called my "Honda specialist" and confessed I needed to save money. They insisted over the phone that I don't go to Kragen like the BF wanted and that I go to the Honda dealership to pick up Honda factory parts. BF hated this but I insisted. They were $68 for the front brake pads. The specialist - who I've had 4 Honda Civics with, through 15 years, and hundreds of thousands of miles - told me NOT to get new rotors since this was my first time and they were within spec. Next time I will probably get new rotors.

Note: through all 4 Honda Civics, not one "surprise". These guys are family-owned, top notch, and I do "services" (minor (includes oil change), oil change, another minor (includes oil change), and then a major (includes oil change), etc.) They have a list of everything they do and percentages so you watch your front / rear brakes wear over time, it is never a "surprise" when they need to be replaced. The thing I hate the most about the BF and his Dad (both engineers) is that when I took the brakes off they said I had "plenty" left. This annoys me. I have 132,000 miles and this is my first brake change. My dad is an engineer too and they seem to think they can wait until the last second on everything. Literally they wait until stuff breaks. I think it was fine that I did my front brakes when I did, I have no issue with it.
 
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And a new rim!

Rims are shockingly easy to bend.

I concur. Wheels are my #3 seller in terms of dollar volume.
 

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They insisted over the phone that I don't go to Kragen like the BF wanted and that I go to the Honda dealership to pick up Honda factory parts.

I don't think much of Kragen either, though they have gotten a little better since they were sold. A good auto parts store will give you good advice, do things like test alternators, starters and batteries, perhaps do basic machine work (rotors, drums and flywheels) for you, and so on. Kragen will pick random words out of a Haynes book.

A really good sign is a set of parts guys who do their own repair work on their own vehicles. It's hard to find this in a national chain. Sometimes an individual store from a national chain can be good; it's a crapshoot.

But factory "original" brake pads? Since when does Honda make their own pads? They come from a third party. You can probably find the exact same pads elsewhere. Look for the stores that supply nearby mechanics.

It's possible that your "Honda guy" really believes he's getting better stuff from the dealer. I've seen stranger. But, more than likely, he's getting his own shop's stuff from an auto parts store as well, because the pricing makes him more competitive.

Virtually all mechanics do "services." They are usually not necessary, unless you never read your maintenance schedule. If you frequently work on your own car (including pre-roadtrip inspections), you'll take care of most of it. These services are a way of selling more work, as you can look at a mildly overtightened radiator hose and say it needs to be replaced (really, you can wait until it shows signs of seeping coolant -- but not any longer than that), and make $100 on the simultaneous flush'n'full and the thermostat and rad cap you "might as well" replace along with it. Oh, and your water pump has 50,000 miles, you might want to do that, too (IRL, not unless you see evidence of corrosion around the weep hole).
 
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MAKG -- Last paragraph is all true... But you forgot an item... topping off the blinker fluid.
 
I don't think much of Kragen either, though they have gotten a little better since they were sold. A good auto parts store will give you good advice, do things like test alternators, starters and batteries, perhaps do basic machine work (rotors, drums and flywheels) for you, and so on. Kragen will pick random words out of a Haynes book.

A really good sign is a set of parts guys who do their own repair work on their own vehicles. It's hard to find this in a national chain. Sometimes an individual store from a national chain can be good; it's a crapshoot.

But factory "original" brake pads? Since when does Honda make their own pads? They come from a third party. You can probably find the exact same pads elsewhere. Look for the stores that supply nearby mechanics.

It's possible that your "Honda guy" really believes he's getting better stuff from the dealer. I've seen stranger. But, more than likely, he's getting his own shop's stuff from an auto parts store as well, because the pricing makes him more competitive.

Virtually all mechanics do "services." They are usually not necessary, unless you never read your maintenance schedule. If you frequently work on your own car (including pre-roadtrip inspections), you'll take care of most of it. These services are a way of selling more work, as you can look at a mildly overtightened radiator hose and say it needs to be replaced (really, you can wait until it shows signs of seeping coolant -- but not any longer than that), and make $100 on the simultaneous flush'n'full and the thermostat and rad cap you "might as well" replace along with it. Oh, and your water pump has 50,000 miles, you might want to do that, too (IRL, not unless you see evidence of corrosion around the weep hole).

Nope, read my post again, no surprises. By keeping it up (with the regular maintenance, which includes things like adjusting the clutch / e-brake, rotating the tires, doing pre-alignment checks and no I never need alignments etc).

I'm saying because of these regular services I've never had a "phone call" like "oh well such and such needs work"
 
MAKG -- Last paragraph is all true... But you forgot an item... topping off the blinker fluid.

I also forgot replacing the Knudsen valve, but who's counting?

For these things, you need to go to kalecoauto.com . Make sure you pick up some elbow grease while you're there.
 
Nope, read my post again, no surprises. By keeping it up (with the regular maintenance, which includes things like adjusting the clutch / e-brake, rotating the tires, doing pre-alignment checks and no I never need alignments etc).

I'm saying because of these regular services I've never had a "phone call" like "oh well such and such needs work"

Just so you know --- leaving aside the fact that rotating tires is pretty easy to do yourself, there is a school of thought that the money and time spent rotating tires every 5000 miles exceeds the money spent replacing them early. This presumes you solve handling problems, especially worn balljoints, struts, bearings, and steering linkages promptly. A front end inspection is not at all difficult, and it's something that you should consider doing periodically, yourself.

I've found that depending on tire shops to make good front end inspections is hit or miss. Especially if finding a problem means they won't sell you a $75 alignment this time.
 
Who pays for tire rotation? There's at least three major brand shops nearby here who do it for free, and offer an "inspection" for other things wrong. (Or the chance to sell you new tires if they're worn out.)
 
Who pays for tire rotation? There's at least three major brand shops nearby here who do it for free, and offer an "inspection" for other things wrong. (Or the chance to sell you new tires if they're worn out.)

I just bought new tires and they told me to come in every so many miles for free rotation. Not sure if I will, my place already does that. But this reminds me I should go look at the paperwork and see when I'm supposed to do it.
 
Who pays for tire rotation? There's at least three major brand shops nearby here who do it for free, and offer an "inspection" for other things wrong. (Or the chance to sell you new tires if they're worn out.)

And the chance to sell you a bunch of stuff that doesn't need fixing to start with.

Rotate your own tires. Once you do it a couple times, it takes about 30 minutes and you can inspect the brakes and other stuff in the wheel well while you're at it. Plus the shops can't air ratchet things to the point of failure.
 
Plus the shops can't air ratchet things to the point of failure.

It's not so much air ratchets, but air impact wrenches that are bad. I eventually bought a 5 foot galvanized pipe that fits around my breaker bar because of those (it is kinda nice for suspension work as well). Once, I picked up my vehicle from Wheel Works after having them try balancing the wheels for the third time (I get very particular about that) and found steel shavings inside the wheels. I made them replace all 20 lugnuts and put them on with a torque wrench like they should have in the first place. I now insist that no impact wrenches be used to install anything (removal is fine), on the work order, whenever I have work done at a shop that needs wheel removal. They almost always comply, and it's easy to figure out when they don't.

It's important to understand that for a shop to be profitable, they must be in a huge hurry all the time. As pilots, you know what happens when you hurry.
 
And the chance to sell you a bunch of stuff that doesn't need fixing to start with.

Rotate your own tires. Once you do it a couple times, it takes about 30 minutes and you can inspect the brakes and other stuff in the wheel well while you're at it. Plus the shops can't air ratchet things to the point of failure.

Or just find a shop that doesn't do that from the multitudes that offer the service, and save yourself 30 minutes unless you're bored.

My shop I like just happens to be next door to a passable BBQ place, so it's drop off, lunch, pick up and drive away during any lunchtime during the week except Friday when they're busy.
 
Or just find a shop that doesn't do that from the multitudes that offer the service, and save yourself 30 minutes unless you're bored.

My shop I like just happens to be next door to a passable BBQ place, so it's drop off, lunch, pick up and drive away during any lunchtime during the week except Friday when they're busy.
I think I know where you are speaking of and use them too. They have never tried to convince me to get extra work done.
 
Or just find a shop that doesn't do that from the multitudes that offer the service, and save yourself 30 minutes unless you're bored.

Sitting at a shop or having to sit next door piddling around for 30 minutes for the work to be done plus the 30+ minutes round trip drive time if it's close by plus dropoff/pickup paperwork exceeds the do it yourself total time.

It's really mindset thing about doing your own work and trust in shops as much as anything else. Personally I don't mind the work at all, I can also inspect or replace other things while it's apart and I know everything that is done is done properly. YMMV.
 
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