How many miles on your cars?

[ntbjounin]

1990 Honda Accord LX: 157k
2001 Volvo S40: 155k

and both are maintained by Spike and my favorite Beech 18 owner!

 

[Alexb2000]

All I can say after 5 pages of posts is that you guys aren't leaving any meat on the bone for the used car dealers.

 

[fgcason]

All I can say after 5 pages of posts is that you guys aren't leaving any meat on the bone for the used car dealers.

I'm not funding a vehicle donation/charity business. I don't buy a vehicle to give to the used car saleman. He can go buy his own damned car if he wants one.

You're not doing it right unless the junkyard guy asks "Where's the rest of it?" when you hand him the remains of the severely worn out steering wheel.

 

[Dart]

My two current cars have 65k and 170k. But my last car I gave to my kid at 175k, the one before that went to my uncle at 250k and the one before that died at 135k. BUT, the third was an MG Midget so, really, it was more like 275k in real car miles. :wink2:

 

[flygirl34q]

Over the weekend, Christopher and I got to borrow a truly ancient airport vehicle with an in-op gas gauge and wires hanging out under the panel...

This thing HAD to have way more than 100K on it... maybe even 200K! But, it still got us to where we were going to get lunch!

 

[steingar]

All I can say after 5 pages of posts is that you guys aren't leaving any meat on the bone for the used car dealers.

More for me.

 

[SCCutler]

All I can say after 5 pages of posts is that you guys aren't leaving any meat on the bone for the used car dealers.

I blame the stunningly ludicrous "cash for clunkers" program... removing a huge number of serviceable used cars from the pool, and even mandating destruction of their engines.

Stooo-pid.

 

[weilke]

I blame the stunningly ludicrous "cash for clunkers" program... removing a huge number of serviceable used cars from the pool, and even mandating destruction of their engines.

That really broke my heart. This was even worse in europe, tens of thousands of 5 year old 35-40mpg compacts went into the crusher to be replaced by vehicles with marginally better enviromental record. After you include the energy cost of making new vehicles, this was easily the dumbest 'green' move ever conceived.

 

[Trapper John]

I blame the stunningly ludicrous "cash for clunkers" program... removing a huge number of serviceable used cars from the pool, and even mandating destruction of their engines.

Stooo-pid.

Participation in that program was purely voluntary. Perhaps blame should go to the participants.

 

[Alexb2000]

I blame the stunningly ludicrous "cash for clunkers" program... removing a huge number of serviceable used cars from the pool, and even mandating destruction of their engines.

Stooo-pid.

As a fellow lover of old cars, don't ever search youtube for "Cash for Clunkers". The vehicles that were destroyed could have made a lot of people happy:

BMW 535
Mustang GT
Landcruiser
Etc.

Based on this thread, most of these pilots could have gotten another 10 years of use out of any one of them.

 

[wsuffa]

I blame the stunningly ludicrous "cash for clunkers" program... removing a huge number of serviceable used cars from the pool, and even mandating destruction of their engines.

Stooo-pid.

Which move also served to push used car prices much higher, making it cheaper to buy new. Hmmm... didn't the US own a new car manufacturer?

 

[Ted]

Which move also served to push used car prices much higher, making it cheaper to buy new. Hmmm... didn't the US own a new car manufacturer?

Government Motors: English for "Volkswagen."

 

[Trapper John]

Which move also served to push used car prices much higher, making it cheaper to buy new. Hmmm... didn't the US own a new car manufacturer?

There was a lot of hand-wringing amongst those opposed and claims that used car prices would go up. I've never seen any documentation of that. The other big claim was that the new car sales would just cannabilize future sales - but if you look at the SAAR stats, that didn't happen, either.

 

[Ted]

There was a lot of hand-wringing amongst those opposed and claims that used car prices would go up. I've never seen any documentation of that. The other big claim was that the new car sales would just cannabilize future sales - but if you look at the SAAR stats, that didn't happen, either.

I definitely saw used car prices go up. In that same time period, I saw prices of various cars I was interested go up by typically about 30%.

There were some cases where the program made sense. My cousin, for instance, traded in a beat up Explorer that was on its last legs on Cash for Clunkers, and then with the additional mileage discount got a new Fusion for a very reasonable price. I wouldn't have made that choice, but it worked well for him.

The parts that made me sad were when I saw some very nice, rare cars that ended up getting the engines destroyed, and not even being left as potential parts swaps for other cars out there.

 

[cessna182h]

2011 Dodge Ram, 186 miles (one month old)
2010 VW Jetta TDI, 6500 miles
1994 Ford F250 Turbodiesel, 108000 miles
2008 Harley VROD, 7500 miles
1965 Cessna 182, 2500 TT, 1100 engine

 

[wsuffa]

There was a lot of hand-wringing amongst those opposed and claims that used car prices would go up. I've never seen any documentation of that. The other big claim was that the new car sales would just cannabilize future sales - but if you look at the SAAR stats, that didn't happen, either.

Anecdotally, I can tell you that used vehicle prices are higher. I recently got done shopping for a vehicle. I chose new because the pricing on a new vehicle was less about $3K higher than the comparable vehicle used w/40,000+ miles on it. The new car pricing for the vehicles I was looking at were very aggressive. I did note higher inventory (and lower used pricing) for vehicles that were above the C4C cutoff, but less efficient than hybrids.

I didn't do an exhaustive study, so I imagine it varies by vehicle type, locale, local personal property (car) taxes, etc.

Not conclusive, anecdotal.

 

[weilke]

There were some cases where the program made sense. My cousin, for instance, traded in a beat up Explorer that was on its last legs on Cash for Clunkers, and then with the additional mileage discount got a new Fusion for a very reasonable price. I wouldn't have made that choice, but it worked well for him.

IT made sense for him personally. In terms of the stated goals of the program, this transaction didn't make sense. If the Explorer was 'on its last legs', he would have bought a replacement within the next year or so anyway. The financial incentive only moved that purchase up by a unspecified amount of time. He would still have been free to choose a more fuel efficient car at that point.
- net economic effect was zero
- environmental effect was very low (basically the 30% more in fuel that the Explorer would have burned during the at max one year it would still have been on the road).

 

[Ted]

IT made sense for him personally. In terms of the stated goals of the program, this transaction didn't make sense. If the Explorer was 'on its last legs', he would have bought a replacement within the next year or so anyway. The financial incentive only moved that purchase up by a unspecified amount of time. He would still have been free to choose a more fuel efficient car at that point.
- net economic effect was zero
- environmental effect was very low (basically the 30% more in fuel that the Explorer would have burned during the at max one year it would still have been on the road).

Yes, but seeing as the program was flawed, it really didn't make sense at all. So, he made the best use of it possible.

I looked into doing something similar, except all my vehicles are in too good of shape for it to make sense.

 

[Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe]

http://www.365daysofa.com/

This guy parked his modern ride and is using a Model A for his daily driver. (Note: expect some plugs for the insurance company he works for - but still interesting.)

 

[EstorilM]

iBristol - was that the S52 engine or the S54 in the M Roadster? I forget what year they changed them.. that was my dream car for a while when I had my M3! LOW miles on yours too.

For the OT:
2005 Mustang GT ~48,500mi (done lots of stuff to it.. she mostly sits in the garage)
1999 Land Rover Discovery II ~159,200mi (picked her up for $3,500 as a "beater" except I fell in love and now it's the only thing I drive!)

Probably selling both for an '05-'06 land rover "something"

 

[mikea]

I underestimated the mileage on my cars.

Currently the Sable Wagon with 137,000 miles is in the shop for a power steering pump and maybe more front end work.

The Sable Sedan has 189,000 miles and it's gone! My neighbor just went into the used car business and is convinced he can flip it.

So right now I have a clear driveway and only two cars that actually run! (The Silhouette minivan - 150,000(?) miles - needs the driver's outside door latch replaced, but you can open up the passenger door and open the driver's door from the inside. I need to paint the latch and put it in.)

I keep looking out at the wonder of a clear driveway. The neighbor selling her house is doing backflips.

 

[mikea]

...Currently the Sable Wagon with 137,000 miles is in the shop for a power steering pump and maybe more front end work.
...

The mechanic called. $474+ for a new steering rack + $600+ labor.

There's never a lake around to jump in when you need one.

 

[wsuffa]

The mechanic called. $474+ for a new steering rack + $600+ labor.

There's never a lake around to jump in when you need one.

Perhaps the car should end up in the Chicago River. Cue the Blues Brothers...

 

[Trapper John]

The mechanic called. $474+ for a new steering rack + $600+ labor.

Must be a bunch of other parts in that number? Reman steering racks are pretty cheap these days, maybe $200 +/-.

 

[EstorilM]

Ehh that's not too bad for retail - I can get a cheapo rack for the land rover.. $400 (one of those OEM-equivalent brands) but that's going to be far cheaper than the $tealership would charge.

Mine's been leaking for years and is covered in PS fluid, but the levels never seem to drop so screw it.

The pump on the other hand, is gonna die soon-ish. The wurrring/groaning noises are starting to bug me (no it doesn't have the obnoxious screeching sound)

 

[mikea]

Must be a bunch of other parts in that number? Reman steering racks are pretty cheap these days, maybe $200 +/-.

He says that's the best price is from Ford - and I trust this guy. I might try searching myself for used parts.

 

[catmandu]

He says that's the best price is from Ford - and I trust this guy. I might try searching myself for used parts.

I just jumped online to NAPA, re-manufactured rack with lifetime limited warranty for that car is retail $237, my price $165 plus tax and core.

I have had good luck with extending the life of racks and pumps tens of thousands of miles by using Lucas Stop Leak.

 

[weilke]

I have had good luck with extending the life of racks and pumps tens of thousands of miles by using Lucas Stop Leak.

Is there a product to elminate the screeching sound from my PS pump when the car is cold ?

 

[fgcason]

Is there a product to elminate the screeching sound from my PS pump when the car is cold ?

A new belt.

 

[catmandu]

Is there a product to elminate the screeching sound from my PS pump when the car is cold ?

Poke the cat that sleeps on top of the pump first. (sorry, old family story ).

Belt is the culprit 90% of the time, temporarily you can tighten it or use a 'stop squeel' spray (which is a mild adhesive). But belt replacement is the ultimate answer.

 

[weilke]

Poke the cat that sleeps on top of the pump first. (sorry, old family story ).

Belt is the culprit 90% of the time, temporarily you can tighten it or use a 'stop squeel' spray (which is a mild adhesive). But belt replacement is the ultimate answer.

Belt is good (newish), doesn't sound like a belt squeal, seems to be somewhere in the innards of the pump.

 

[catmandu]

Belt is good (newish), doesn't sound like a belt squeal, seems to be somewhere in the innards of the pump.

Even newish belts have given me problems, but here's a test: On a cold start, have someone else start the car, you stand by with a can of Brakleen or equivalent with the long nozzle installed on the spray head and pointed at the belt's side that contacts the pump. Give a quick squirt until the squeek stops, then see if it comes back (Brakleen evaporates quickly). If it does come back, it's the belt slipping. Tighten if able, replace if not.

If you still have a squeal, belt slippage could be due to mechanical resistance, possibly at the power steering pump. My next step would be to buy a cheap mechanic's stethoscope and use it to make sure it is the pump, not some other nearby device, by touching it to the body of suspect devices (the offending device will be obvious when compared to the others). Replace the offending device.

Caveat: Advice from me? You get what you pay for, so no complaints!

 

[fgcason]

Belt is good (newish), doesn't sound like a belt squeal, seems to be somewhere in the innards of the pump.

Too tight of a belt causes as many problems as too loose including bearing noise.

Or it could be the guts failing. I also learned a while back to never assume someone topped the fluid off and it could be nearing empty.

 

[weilke]

Even newish belts have given me problems, but here's a test: On a cold start, have someone else start the car, you stand by with a can of Brakleen or equivalent with the long nozzle installed on the spray head and pointed at the belt's side that contacts the pump. Give a quick squirt until the squeek stops, then see if it comes back (Brakleen evaporates quickly). If it does come back, it's the belt slipping. Tighten if able, replace if not.

If you still have a squeal, belt slippage could be due to mechanical resistance, possibly at the power steering pump. My next step would be to buy a cheap mechanic's stethoscope and use it to make sure it is the pump, not some other nearby device, by touching it to the body of suspect devices (the offending device will be obvious when compared to the others). Replace the offending device.

Caveat: Advice from me? You get what you pay for, so no complaints!

And then there is the option of doing nothing and to wait for either the belt to break or the pump to seize .