How does the Lycoming 540 Intake Connection Pipe get secured & sealed?

J

JasonM

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JM
Part image attached below..

I have had the rubber hose that connects to the metal pipe replaced 2 times and it continues to leak some of that blue goo (fuel).

On the last replacement the A&P was able to wiggle the Intake Connection Pipe a little and said if it continues to leak that I will need to take it to an engine shop to fix that pipe as the leak is likely from that and not the rubber hose.

I found an image of the part and am curious as to how it is secured and sealed in there? How difficult is this repair?

My A&P has not dealt with this before. I'd love to have some good news for him to do this himself and save myself a trip to some unknown engine shop $$$.
 

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Before doing anything else your mechanic might want to try some EZ Turn

ezturnlube.jpg
 
EZ Turn is a specific product. It's called a "lubricant" but it's more like a sealant, very thick and tacky almost like mousetrap glue. It is completely impervious to fuel and does not harden or dry up. It's very effective for sealing fuel leaks on wet gauges, transmitters and NPT drains.

In your case this is not a pressure leak, it is residual fuel in the intake either at initial priming before start or after shutdown. Do you have an engine monitor that might indicate an intake leak on that cylinder? Because in operation the manifold pressure is lower than ambient so any leak would be in that direction. It would only be possible for residual fuel to leak out either prior to start or after shut down.
 
Silvaire said:
EZ Turn is a specific product. It's called a "lubricant" but it's more like a sealant, very thick and tacky almost like mousetrap glue. It is completely impervious to fuel and does not harden or dry up. It's very effective for sealing fuel leaks on wet gauges, transmitters and NPT drains.

In your case this is not a pressure leak, it is residual fuel in the intake either at initial priming before start or after shutdown. Do you have an engine monitor that might indicate an intake leak on that cylinder? Because in operation the manifold pressure is lower than ambient so any leak would be in that direction. It would only be possible for residual fuel to leak out either prior to start or after shut down.
Click to expand...

I will ask. If not, I will try. :wink2: Thanks!
 
And BTW you just need the small tube, no need for that big can as pictured.
 
Silvaire said:
And BTW you just need the small tube, no need for that big can as pictured.
Click to expand...

Although when you find how nifty the stuff is, if you are prone to working on things, you will find other uses for it, especially holding a flat & lock washer as well as a nut on the tip of your finger or screwdriver so you can stick them on a barely reachable stud..;)
 
Silvaire said:
And BTW you just need the small tube, no need for that big can as pictured.
Click to expand...

That depends on your age. A one-pound can lasts a LONG time. We had one in a busy flight school shop that lasted about 14 years. For an old guy a tube is plenty. Sorta like old folks not buying green bananas.

Great stuff, that. Used to know it as Fuel Lube. It's the grease they use in those tapered-plug fuel valves. You know, the ones that are all sticky or stuck or squeaky in old airplanes. It works great on gaskets (but will also allow thick rubber gaskets to extrude out of the joint if tightened up much). It can be used to stick little nuts or washers to your fingertip or a screwdriver to get them into tight spots.

Dan
 
I've seen many temp repairs smearing RTV, pro seal etc all over the joint. These do work, but look like dog crap.

That's if you can get the area clean enough. I'm not aware of fuel resistant RTV either.
 
bnt83 said:
I've seen many temp repairs smearing RTV, pro seal etc all over the joint. These do work, but look like dog crap.

That's if you can get the area clean enough. I'm not aware of fuel resistant RTV either.
Click to expand...

There is no fuel resistant RTV, I have used Indian Head liquid and a syringe to inject it into the crack. It's a temporary fix at best as once the swage is deformed and compressed, there is little to be done about vibration making it worse.
 
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