Gawdddam Carpenter..........

Unit74

Final Approach
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Unit74
Ants.



New pad we just settled into and these big MoFo ants are popping up. like close to 1/2 inch big. WTF..... these ai t I fire ants. they are slow and don't like to die when smacked with shoes or magazines.


WTH do I have to do to evict these squatters? I have no clue where they are coming from. I put out Terro drinking fountains but these me be Fiji water drinkers.

I can't kill em with fire just yet. but I want to......
 
They be thirsty man, we haven't had rain for 2 months+ until last might. Like that Cajun dude says, "Choot, choot 'em". Supposed to get rain tonight, so they should get their asses back outside and drink up soon. Maybe.
 
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One word to get rid of ants:

Gasoline.

You don't have to light it, just the liquid will kill ants, but there might be side effects if you or someone in the family smokes......
 
Borax and sugar/honey mixture. Absolutely deadly, and not as toxic to handle as pesticides or gasoline. Mix it 3 parts syrup/honey to 1 part Borax (yep, the 20 Mule Team stuff). Find the ant trails entering the house (just outside is preferable for obvious reasons) and apply. Unlike the pesticides which tend to kill the ants before they can carry any back to the colony, the borax will go home and eliminate the nest. Give it 2-4 days from one application.
 
Borax and sugar/honey mixture. Absolutely deadly, and not as toxic to handle as pesticides or gasoline. Mix it 3 parts syrup/honey to 1 part Borax (yep, the 20 Mule Team stuff). Find the ant trails entering the house (just outside is preferable for obvious reasons) and apply. Unlike the pesticides which tend to kill the ants before they can carry any back to the colony, the borax will go home and eliminate the nest. Give it 2-4 days from one application.
That's the stuff that's in Terro, and it is outstanding on many kinds of ants. Carpenters don't have as big a sweet tooth, though, and it might not work so well. The good thing about this mixture is that it's kid and pet safe.
 
Ants.



New pad we just settled into and these big MoFo ants are popping up. like close to 1/2 inch big. WTF..... these ai t I fire ants. they are slow and don't like to die when smacked with shoes or magazines.


WTH do I have to do to evict these squatters? I have no clue where they are coming from. I put out Terro drinking fountains but these me be Fiji water drinkers.

I can't kill em with fire just yet. but I want to......

Try to figure out where their coming into the house. We had a whole Carpenter ant hill coming through a gap in the A/C ducts whenever it would rain. If you can find the location put down a mat of Diatomaceous Earth around the entire opening. My father uses it to great success in his beehives.

I declared total war once I started waking up in the middle of the night with ants on my face. :mad:o_O
 
I have no clue where they are coming from of getting in. I'm ready to bulldoze the south wing.
 
I have no clue where they are coming from of getting in. I'm ready to bulldoze the south wing.

Use the dozer to build a moat. Fill the moat with JP4, wait for ants to enter, and light it off! No? Too drastic?
 
Carpenter ant infestations in a structure, if that's what they are, are usually (but not always) associated with past or current moisture problems. If that's the case, the moisture problem must be addressed if it hasn't already been. It's also possible, however, that the ants are just foraging. If that's the case, then baiting the outside of the house with a weather-resistant granular bait labeled for carpenter ants is a good approach. They should stop coming in once they find a source of food that is closer to their nest.

One good approach to finding the nest is to watch the ants. Ants are social insects and foragers, so the ones who are traveling empty-handed, as it were, are looking for food; but the ones who are carrying food are returning to the nest. If you look for the ants who are carrying food (which can be pretty much anything) and stealthily follow them, they will lead you to the nest. If you are lazy but have access to a small child, consider enlisting them for the job of following the ants. They're usually good at it, especially when promised a reward of pocket change, junk food, toys, or some other suitable payment upon finding the nest. They can be very diligent when properly motivated.

As for the ants themselves, if there is a single vertical node rising from the dorsal side of the petiole between the thoracic and abdominal segments, then the ants are most likely carpenter ants. You can also ask to see their union cards, but they may or may not comply.

Rich
 
We only see one or two a night. No rhyme or reason to the sightings.

If I knew where'd to hit em, I'd call for a nuclear strike. I've looked all over and just can't find any clues to where they might be bivouwacked at. These must be spec ops ants.
 
We only see one or two a night. No rhyme or reason to the sightings.

If I knew where'd to hit em, I'd call for a nuclear strike. I've looked all over and just can't find any clues to where they might be bivouwacked at. These must be spec ops ants.

They're probably foragers then. Use a good granular bait around the house and see if they're gone after a week or so.

Rich
 
Sometimes I'll get a hose-end sprayer of insecticide and soak around the perimeter of the foundation. I used to get ants inside the house on a regular basis. I am pretty sure there was a colony of black ants underneath our patio slab and they would come inside the house whenever we had heavy spring rains. I couldn't get anything under that slab to kill them, so I'd have to wait for the rains to drive them inside the house. Once inside, I'd hit them with Terro (basically, corn syrup and borax). This would knock them out for another year.

You might try Terro. Carpenter ants aren't necessarily sugar eaters, according to the interweb, so they may or may not be attracted to that bait. It's cheap and worth a try, though. If you see them swarm over that bait, keep adding more for a day or two until you don't see any more ants. But from what I've heard about termites might apply to carpenter ants: They need water, food, and contact with earth. If you take any one of those away, you get rid of them. For termites, the food is your house, and they need the ground for their nests - that's why you'll find mud tunnels between your house and the ground so they can move in and out. I'm not really sure if that's going to be a similar situation for carpenter ants.

Since you are in GA, here's a link to your extension:

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B1225
 
Carpenter ants have no interest in eating wood. They sometimes eat fungi that grow in wet wood, but not the wood itself. They do, however, excavate galleries in wood to lay eggs and raise their young. That's not the only place where they'll nest, but it's where they would usually nest in nature.

Nowadays, they'll nest in any protected void area. They're often found in the structural voids around doors and windows in homes, for example, and they won't necessarily do any excavating in the wood if the void is suitable enough for them as it is.

Rich
 
Terro doesn't seemed to have worked these sum beeches are still cohabitating without a permit. Still can't find where they are coming from. Centered on one side of the house, mostly found in one room but no signs of infultration point, mess deck or bivouac. Like ninjas they are.

Will a Raid bug and roach cup kills these things?
 
I was talking with a pest control guy about a week or so ago. He recommends Bayer products. They come in blue spray bottles at Lowes and HD. Check out their website and see what they say about carpenter ants.
 
I've got WD40 and a lighter on stand by....
 
Try Orthene, smells like hell but kills the nest every time. I mean every time , the nest does not move. never fail. Used for over a decade, never not worked. Not available everywhere.
 
Kill them and put their heads on toothpicks. Then put the toothpicks around your home pour encourager les autres.
 
If you are ever able to find the best, pour gasoline into it. Ant genocide is the only way to rid yourself of them, have been there many a time. in the fall we always have ants get into the house, we just follow them black to the hill, dump in a ton of gas, they are all dead in a few minutes.
 
If you are ever able to find the best, pour gasoline into it. Ant genocide is the only way to rid yourself of them, have been there many a time. in the fall we always have ants get into the house, we just follow them black to the hill, dump in a ton of gas, they are all dead in a few minutes.


I wouldn't be able to resist torching it if I did that.
 
Try Orthene, smells like hell but kills the nest every time. I mean every time , the nest does not move. never fail. Used for over a decade, never not worked. Not available everywhere.

The active ingredient in Orthene is acephate, an old-school organophosphate acetylcholinesterase inhibitor. It's illegal in many places, and should be used carefully in places where it's not. It's most useful either as a direct treatment if you know where the nest is, or as a perimeter "barrier" treatment if you know for a fact that the ants are just foraging and the nest is elsewhere. It's repellent enough that they usually won't try to cross it; and if they do, they die excruciating deaths as their synapses go into hyperdrive.

Rich
 
The active ingredient in Orthene is acephate, an old-school organophosphate acetylcholinesterase inhibitor. It's illegal in many places, and should be used carefully in places where it's not. It's most useful either as a direct treatment if you know where the nest is, or as a perimeter "barrier" treatment if you know for a fact that the ants are just foraging and the nest is elsewhere. It's repellent enough that they usually won't try to cross it; and if they do, they die excruciating deaths as their synapses go into hyperdrive.

Rich
organophosphate acetylcholinesterase. Nice, i liked the post just because of that, what is that? If I'm not mistake a "phosate Esper" is the same thing as an organophosphate correct? Such as DNA and RNA?
 
organophosphate acetylcholinesterase. Nice, i liked the post just because of that, what is that? If I'm not mistake a "phosate Esper" is the same thing as an organophosphate correct? Such as DNA and RNA?

Chemically speaking, yes, they're all in the same group of compounds. Colloquially, "organophosphate" usually refers to insecticides. If you search on the word using any search engine in the world, probably 95 percent of the results will refer to pesticides, not to the basic chemistry.

Acetylcholinesterase is an enzyme that breaks down acetylcholine, which is an important neurotransmitter that is involved in virtually every aspect of nervous system function. Organophosphate insecticides inhibit its function. Although if you know what a phosphate ester is, you probably know that already, probably in more detail than I do.

Rich
 
Chemically speaking, yes, they're all in the same group of compounds. Colloquially, "organophosphate" usually refers to insecticides. If you search on the word using any search engine in the world, probably 95 percent of the results will refer to pesticides, not to the basic chemistry.

Acetylcholinesterase is an enzyme that breaks down acetylcholine, which is an important neurotransmitter that is involved in virtually every aspect of nervous system function. Organophosphate insecticides inhibit its function. Although if you know what a phosphate ester is, you probably know that already, probably in more detail than I do.

Rich

You didn't say, but I think you meant to, that it affects people (and animals) exactly the same way as it does insects, only less so because people are bigger. Organophosphate pesticides can cause permanent nervous system damage with very little exposure and in my mind are not worth the health risk. In fact, they are more acutely toxic than the organochlorines (like DDT) that they replaced, but DDT was banned first because it builds up in the environment and damages ecosystems to a greater extent.
 
You didn't say, but I think you meant to, that it affects people (and animals) exactly the same way as it does insects, only less so because people are bigger. Organophosphate pesticides can cause permanent nervous system damage with very little exposure and in my mind are not worth the health risk. In fact, they are more acutely toxic than the organochlorines (like DDT) that they replaced, but DDT was banned first because it builds up in the environment and damages ecosystems to a greater extent.

Absolutely. The effects on humans and other animals is exactly the same as the effect on insects and other arthropods. The only difference is that it takes more to poison larger animals than it does to poison insects.

When they first came out, organophosphates were considered "safer" than the organochlorines because they're much less persistent in the environment and much less accumulative in the body. But their effects in the body are accumulative: Continued sub-acute exposure to organophosphate insecticides before AChE levels have recovered can cause an acute poisoning event. We handled a lot of them back when I was with EMS in the 1980s when I lived in Central NY, mainly farmers who applied "moderately" toxic OPs like chlorpyrifos and malathion day after day, suffering no apparent effects, and therefore getting lax about exposure protection; and then one day -- BAM -- OP poisoning hit them like a bullet.

In addition, many chronic effects of organophosphates have been uncovered in the intervening decades (reproductive toxicity and probable carcinogenicity and teratogenicity, among others), mainly by looking at the health histories of pesticide applicators and their families. I'm glad the organophosphates as a group are being phased out for all but a very few uses.

All that being said, if someone who lives in an area where it's legal wants to properly apply Dursban or Orthene around the exterior perimeter of their house to keep arthropod pests out, I don't lose any sleep about that. Applied and handled properly, there will be no actual exposure and little or no risk. Also, none of the alternative residual insecticides are risk-free, either, other than boric acid if you can get the insects to eat it; or maybe microencapsulated pyrethrum as a spray, depending on the formulation. Sometimes the "inactive" ingredients are more toxic than the "active" ones. :hairraise:

As for alternatives, the neonicotinoids are pretty low-risk to humans and mammals in general, but come with huge risks to non-target invertebrates, fish, and birds, in that order. They're also slower-acting against insects; but they do tend to eliminate entire nests of social insects like ants. Unfortunately, they also wipe out entire bee colonies if the foragers are exposed :(

The cyano-pyrethroids seem pretty low-risk as long as there's no drift or run-off, but most of them are also very repellent and scare off more insects than they kill (which may or may not be a bad thing). Deltamethrin seems to be an exception in this regard. It's not very repellent at all. I sometimes use deltamethrin dust up inside hornets' nests when they build them too close to the house for comfort. The returning foragers walk right over it like it wasn't even there. The nest is usually dead within an hour or two.

Back to safety, what it all comes down to is that there's really no such thing as a "safe" insecticide: but almost any of them can be used "safely." When applied correctly observing all safety precautions, there usually is no exposure, and therefore little or no health risk. The problem is that too many people either don't read labels or try to "improve" upon the label instructions, especially with OTC products, which they tend not to respect as "real" pesticides.

Personally, I usually treat the exterior of my home twice- or thrice-yearly, once in the early spring, and then again (if needed) in June and August. If there's no activity, I defer the subsequent treatments until there is. I use one or the other of the neonicotinoids as a crack-and-crevice treatment up under the siding around the foundation; a boric acid bait like Niban sprinkled around the perimeter; and a cyanopyrethroid (usually deltamethrin) behind the shutters and under the deck for the wasps. Anything else exterior, like hornets' nests, are only as-needed, and my thresholds are high.

I almost never apply anything at all inside the house. It's almost never necessary if the exterior is thoughtfully treated.

Rich
 
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Chemically speaking, yes, they're all in the same group of compounds. Colloquially, "organophosphate" usually refers to insecticides. If you search on the word using any search engine in the world, probably 95 percent of the results will refer to pesticides, not to the basic chemistry.

Acetylcholinesterase is an enzyme that breaks down acetylcholine, which is an important neurotransmitter that is involved in virtually every aspect of nervous system function. Organophosphate insecticides inhibit its function. Although if you know what a phosphate ester is, you probably know that already, probably in more detail than I do.

Rich
No, not really :) thank you for the indulgence.
 
I do what @RJM62 does but without the fancy words.

I spray the hell out of the outside perimeter of the house with Ortho Home Defense only when I notice bug activity (spiders, mostly) inside the house. So that is usually 1-2 times a year. Never have to do the baseboards inside like the directions suggest if I do the outside properly.

We have a wall out back with Spanish tile on top. Seemed to be home to hundreds of spiders. Once I treated that area, seemed like we stopped having to spray much outside.
 
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