gismo
Touchdown! Greaser!
A man's gotta know his limitations!
DB25 Connector
- Thread starter tonycondon
- Start date
A man's gotta know his limitations!
jesse
Touchdown! Greaser!
LMFAO
tonycondon
Gastons CRO (Chief Dinner Reservation Officer)
im building the connector on my dining room table. but that is a pretty funny mental image. i did do some soldering at the glider today, connecting the microphone and speaker. But thanksfully I have many feet of extra wire so I could do the soldering well away from the highly flammable glider.
xactly.
Started crimping tonight. it seems to be going well enough. started putting the pins in the connector and that went fine too. I managed to get one pin stuck in the connector. When i pulled the tool out it brought the wire with it. that was frustrating and I really couldn't figure out how to use the "extraction" tool to do anything but ram the pin deeper into the connector.
so. do i cut the wires off that are connected so far, buy a new connector, and start over? or do you smart people have a better idea for removing the stuck pin?
gismo
Touchdown! Greaser!
The "extractor" (a little flimsy piece of metal with a red and white plastic grip) is only intended to release the clips that hold the pins in the connector body. You have to use something else to push them out if you don't have a wire attached, otherwise you can just pull on the wire. You are supposed to insert the tool into the shell from the wire side to shield the pin from the latches that are molded into the sides of the holes in the shell. Usually you cannot push the tool far enough into the shell unless you also push the wire/pin INTO the shell with a slight pressure at the same time as you insert the tool. You can see the proper insertion distance by putting the tool into an open hole with no pin, you need to get it into the shell that same amount when releasing a pin. You will feel some extra resistance about 3/4'ths the way in on an empty hole, that's the latches being pushed aside. When you repeat this on a hole with a pin in it, it's much more difficult to feel that happening because the wire and pin creates a lot of extra friction but the proper insertion depth is the same either way (pin or no pin). The two ends of the tool are different and I've never figured out why. One forms a more complete circle and that's the only one that will release all three latches in the hole at the same time but it's also the most difficult end of the tool to get around the pin and wire. I have managed to release pins with the other end of the tool by rotating it around the pin as I gently push and pull on the wire. If you don't have a wire on the pin you may need an additional tool like a sharp scribe or even a straightened paper clip to push the pin in while inserting the tool all the way down the hole. Be careful when pushing the pins from the mating connector side as it's easy to bend them if they are male and if the implement you use on female pins (actually called sockets) is too large it won't easily slip into the hollow portion without damaging the pin (socket). You want something no larger in diameter than the male pins. IIRC a regular small paper clip is about right.
BTW, unless you crimp the pins properly they probably won't fit into the holes very well. The result needs to be fairly compact.