Cylinder compressions low on an IO-360

Clip4 said:
Yes, but that doesn’t assure the run perfectly straight and abrasion does not occur.
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First off, they will as long as the operator is proficient. Second, if the issue is lead buildup, it's like a haircut, it will grow back and tighten up on it's own.
 
arnoha said:
This is commercial insurance arranged through the flying club that manages my plane. They are not an FBO, but rather a flying non-profit. (West Valley Flying Club in Palo Alto, my plane there: http://www.wvfc.org/a/wvfc.org/template-2/aircraft/n194sp ) They do have some of the most draconian rules that I've seen about stuff like this. They also have a stellar safety record, excellent insurance, and cheap rates. They also run their own shop and run their own fuel service. (So...what makes it not an FBO, you ask? The answer: you must be a club member to use any of these services, except for the fuel.) They're popular, too, with over 50 aircraft that tend to stay very busy.

Palo Alto is a weird airport. Very small towered airport. Three major clubs, and a few smaller ones. Over 150 total aircraft available for rent...and they definitely get rented and fly, mine included. I'm typically getting 40-60 hours each month when the plane is healthy.
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Ah. I'm familiar with WVFC, I flew one of their planes once (a DA40, with Max Trescott - An excellent experience!) and I've flown my plane into Palo Alto too, since my brother lives nearby.

But still... Is this really an insurance rule, or is it a club rule?
 
flyingcheesehead said:
Ah. I'm familiar with WVFC, I flew one of their planes once (a DA40, with Max Trescott - An excellent experience!) and I've flown my plane into Palo Alto too, since my brother lives nearby.

But still... Is this really an insurance rule, or is it a club rule?
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My understanding is that the cost for the insurance is negotiated based on the club's rule set. So, it's not written directly into the policy, but instead the policy references the club's rules. So, yeah, I'm to understand it's not directly in the insurance policy, but the two are joined at the hip. Whether it's written into the contract directly or not, it's insurance that's driving that conversation.

I'll note, WVFC does not make me use their shop. It is 100% acceptable to have a plane on the line with them serviced by another shop. They will and do accommodate that. There just isn't anyone else at KPAO that I'd rather taking care of my plane. WVFC's shop has taken good care of me, with my primary complaint being the rather longish hours they charge. My plane has been to Rossi, AeroWorx, and Peninsula at times when that made the most sense. Notably, Rossi did the work for the fuel senders, and WVFC was too impacted to do that long procedure and Peninsula just straight up refused. Wouldn't change what they require to be done, of course.
 
PaulS said:
Oh yes they do Tom, that's why gage pins were invented. Many things can go wrong, not the least of which is a dull reamer.
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Remind me not to have you do it either.
 
Tom-D said:
Remind me not to have you do it either.
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Personally I wouldn't do it, but I've spec'd out parts to be reamed of which hundreds of thousands if not millions have been produced, I've seen lots of junk produced mostly by those who think they are experts and don't have a clue. Pointless to argue with them, if it was an employee, just move them to another job, if it was a vendor, fire them.
 
PaulS said:
Personally I wouldn't do it, but I've spec'd out parts to be reamed of which hundreds of thousands if not millions have been produced, I've seen lots of junk produced mostly by those who think they are experts and don't have a clue. Pointless to argue with them, if it was an employee, just move them to another job, if it was a vendor, fire them.
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have either of you two guys ever reamed a guide?

Here is an excerpt from the Lycoming instruction. Keep in mind these reamers are special tools they are not your ordinary sizing reamers.

NOTE

Refer to Textron Lycoming, Service Table of Limits and Torque Value Recommendations, SSP1776 or latest revision thereof, for valve guide dimensions when selecting a reamer. See special tools section of this instruction for reamer part numbers.

9. Place ordinary cup grease on the flutes of the reamer, so the deposits will be removed with the reamer.

10. Work the reamer by hand and make sure cutting position has gone through entire length of guide. The one- inch pilot should he completely visible through the exhaust port or through spark plug hole using a dental mirror.

Like I've said these are special tools, they are piloted and run by hand, so it is difficult at best to screw it up. But of course given the right klutz :)
 
Tom-D said:
have either of you two guys ever reamed a guide?

Here is an excerpt from the Lycoming instruction. Keep in mind these reamers are special tools they are not your ordinary sizing reamers.

NOTE

Refer to Textron Lycoming, Service Table of Limits and Torque Value Recommendations, SSP1776 or latest revision thereof, for valve guide dimensions when selecting a reamer. See special tools section of this instruction for reamer part numbers.

9. Place ordinary cup grease on the flutes of the reamer, so the deposits will be removed with the reamer.

10. Work the reamer by hand and make sure cutting position has gone through entire length of guide. The one- inch pilot should he completely visible through the exhaust port or through spark plug hole using a dental mirror.

Like I've said these are special tools, they are piloted and run by hand, so it is difficult at best to screw it up. But of course given the right klutz :)
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Would you recommend these?

https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/category/valve-guide-cleaning-reamers/
 
Tom-D said:
have either of you two guys ever reamed a guide?

Here is an excerpt from the Lycoming instruction. Keep in mind these reamers are special tools they are not your ordinary sizing reamers.

NOTE

Refer to Textron Lycoming, Service Table of Limits and Torque Value Recommendations, SSP1776 or latest revision thereof, for valve guide dimensions when selecting a reamer. See special tools section of this instruction for reamer part numbers.

9. Place ordinary cup grease on the flutes of the reamer, so the deposits will be removed with the reamer.

10. Work the reamer by hand and make sure cutting position has gone through entire length of guide. The one- inch pilot should he completely visible through the exhaust port or through spark plug hole using a dental mirror.

Like I've said these are special tools, they are piloted and run by hand, so it is difficult at best to screw it up. But of course given the right klutz :)
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Yep, works great... Lasts a long time! Way better than changing a cylinder prematurely ;-) I did it on our engine around 1,000hrs STOH, went ahead and did the exhaust valves on the whole engine in an afternoon. It's amazing the kind of operations you can do without tearing off the jugs! A borescope, some dental floss, a set of mechanical fingers, a shop vac, the reamer in question, etc... I went a step further and installed new valve springs and keepers on all cylinders as well.

In your case, it would be relatively easy to pull the jugs, hone & re-ring. Just another hour or two per jug--a set of rings is about $100 or so. Plus $50 or so per jug for new gaskets and hardware.

Of course, it never hurts to follow the Lycoming (or Connie in my case) instructions and run their tests before removing the jug for repair. Hopefully they installed everything with brand new hardware, and a new piston pin while they were at it...
 
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