Clutch Slipping

[Matthew K]

A few things we did was take off the radiator fan and add an electric fan. I also added a second alternator on the rear axle, and it had two batteries. We also did a port matching on the head and intake and put in bigger valves along with a 5 angle valve job. And we added harder valve seats for the unleaded gas. We also CC'ed the combustion chambers just for practice. We also balanced the rotating assembly just for practice as well. For the cam we called Iskey Cams and gave them the information and they ground a cam for us to meet out needs. (wants) It really worked good.

In the long term I've thought about changing out the rad and putting in a electric fan to go with. Of course I'll have to upgrade the alternator if I do that. Also, interesting concept to have an alternator attached to the rear axle? First time I've heard of it.

 

[Zeldman]

In the long term I've thought about changing out the rad and putting in a electric fan to go with. Of course I'll have to upgrade the alternator if I do that. Also, interesting concept to have an alternator attached to the rear axle? First time I've heard of it.

We did that on race cars so the alternators would not destroy themselves at the RPM range we ran. We learned to put a spare belt around the drive shaft in case the belt on the alternator broke..... guess how we learned that trick...

We put a second alternator on the van because we had the alternator quit very late at night and a long way from home. After that if the idiot light came on, flip the switch and idiot light goes off. Basically on the van we put the alternator on the rear end because we could not find a V- belt that would work if we put it on the engine. Otherwise we would have had to remove the A/C compressor.

Taking the fan off released the HP used to turn the direct drive fan, and quieted the noise down.

For ignition we turned the Ford distributor into a MSD ignition, with a rev limiter. We limited the RPM to 4500 because after there just wasn't any more pull left.

Single barrel carburetors just don't work on an inline engine. An after market intake with a 2 or small 4 bbl carburetor may improve gas mileage. And as Chip Sylverne stated above an intake warmed by the coolant works better.

I am an old school guy, I like multi carbed engines over electric computer controlled cars.

 

[Chip Sylverne]

If you go with a Duraspark II distributor and GM four prong (like out of a late 70's Camaro) you have a multi-spark ignition as good as the MSD for about 1/10 the price. Being an 83, you probably are already running a Duraspark II system. You just need to fab a good aluminum heat sink for the module. A good HEI coil is a plus too.

The Ford TFI module has a tendency to die with regularity, and when it does it turns off like a switch. After the second time I yanked it and went with the GM. Been solid so far. Mounted it up right in near the fan so it keeps cool.

IMHO, an electric fan really won't save you much hp over a clutch fan, spend the $ on something with more bang for the buck.

My original carb was one of those one bbl pre-fuel injection electronic deals that had a solenoid to control how much air was in the fuel mixture. What a piece of junk.

 

[Matthew K]

We did that on race cars so the alternators would not destroy themselves at the RPM range we ran. We learned to put a spare belt around the drive shaft in case the belt on the alternator broke..... guess how we learned that trick...

We put a second alternator on the van because we had the alternator quit very late at night and a long way from home. After that if the idiot light came on, flip the switch and idiot light goes off. Basically on the van we put the alternator on the rear end because we could not find a V- belt that would work if we put it on the engine. Otherwise we would have had to remove the A/C compressor.

Taking the fan off released the HP used to turn the direct drive fan, and quieted the noise down.

For ignition we turned the Ford distributor into a MSD ignition, with a rev limiter. We limited the RPM to 4500 because after there just wasn't any more pull left.

Single barrel carburetors just don't work on an inline engine. An after market intake with a 2 or small 4 bbl carburetor may improve gas mileage. And as Chip Sylverne stated above an intake warmed by the coolant works better.

I am an old school guy, I like multi carbed engines over electric computer controlled cars.

Makes sense. However, a friend of mine races a late model dirt track car and if I remember correctly he doesn't have an alternator at all. Just a good AGM battery to start it up and keep the gauge lights on, and then just has to keep spares on hand and recharge them.

I also like the simplicity of these older carb engines. However, during idle, I would enjoy this truck being electrically controlled. Right now, at idle, the truck is at about 650-700 rpm with no accessories on. If I turn things like the a/c or headlights on, it goes down to 400-500rpm, and starts discharging the battery as the alt is spinning to slow for the load. Any suggestions to combat this would be appreciated.

P.S. I just had to buy a new battery for this truck today. Old one lasted 4 years. Kept having to put it on a charger if I let the truck sit more than a few days and then a couple days ago I checked and it was at 5 volts...tried charging it, didn't work out.

If you go with a Duraspark II distributor and GM four prong (like out of a late 70's Camaro) you have a multi-spark ignition as good as the MSD for about 1/10 the price. Being an 83, you probably are already running a Duraspark II system. You just need to fab a good aluminum heat sink for the module. A good HEI coil is a plus too.

The Ford TFI module has a tendency to die with regularity, and when it does it turns off like a switch. After the second time I yanked it and went with the GM. Been solid so far. Mounted it up right in near the fan so it keeps cool.

IMHO, an electric fan really won't save you much hp over a clutch fan, spend the $ on something with more bang for the buck.

My original carb was one of those one bbl pre-fuel injection electronic deals that had a solenoid to control how much air was in the fuel mixture. What a piece of junk.

I'll keep the distributor idea in mind if/when I have to replace it . Also, as far as the electric fan goes, I wouldn't get it for the slight hp savings. It'd be more for efficiency, having the ability to control when its on, and just for the heck of it.

 

[Chip Sylverne]

You should have an electric solenoid "kicker" that bumps up the throttle linkage at the carb a touch when the a/c is turned on. Might check that.

My truck idles at 900 rpm, but it's nowhere near stock. Idle speed should be on your tune-up sticker. Maybe it's a little low, or you could use some service? I can see idle dropping with a/c, but headlights, not so much.

 

[Matthew K]

You should have an electric solenoid "kicker" that bumps up the throttle linkage at the carb a touch when the a/c is turned on. Might check that.

My truck idles at 900 rpm, but it's nowhere near stock. Idle speed should be on your tune-up sticker. Maybe it's a little low, or you could use some service? I can see idle dropping with a/c, but headlights, not so much.

My idle is definitely not 900 rpm. Maybe it does give it some gas when the a/c kicks on, but the battery still discharges given it is still at 500ish rpm. Since I'm inexperienced with automotive carbs and you all seem to know these Ford 300 engines, how would I go about tuning this for a higher idle?

 

[FormerHangie]

Makes sense. However, a friend of mine races a late model dirt track car and if I remember correctly he doesn't have an alternator at all. Just a good AGM battery to start it up and keep the gauge lights on, and then just has to keep spares on hand and recharge them.

I also like the simplicity of these older carb engines. However, during idle, I would enjoy this truck being electrically controlled. Right now, at idle, the truck is at about 650-700 rpm with no accessories on. If I turn things like the a/c or headlights on, it goes down to 400-500rpm, and starts discharging the battery as the alt is spinning to slow for the load. Any suggestions to combat this would be appreciated.

P.S. I just had to buy a new battery for this truck today. Old one lasted 4 years. Kept having to put it on a charger if I let the truck sit more than a few days and then a couple days ago I checked and it was at 5 volts...tried charging it, didn't work out.

I'll keep the distributor idea in mind if/when I have to replace it . Also, as far as the electric fan goes, I wouldn't get it for the slight hp savings. It'd be more for efficiency, having the ability to control when its on, and just for the heck of it.

My Formula Ford didn't have an alternator either, just a motorcycle battery. We used a plug in booster battery to start the car and charged between sessions.

 

[Chip Sylverne]

My idle is definitely not 900 rpm. Maybe it does give it some gas when the a/c kicks on, but the battery still discharges given it is still at 500ish rpm. Since I'm inexperienced with automotive carbs and you all seem to know these Ford 300 engines, how would I go about tuning this for a higher idle?

500 rpm ain't enough.

Look at where the throttle linkage attaches to the carb. Have someone push the accelerator, and watch how it works. When the accelerator is released, you should see the linkage rest against a stop. The stop ought to have a spring/screw type adjustment. Adjust the screw so the throttle opens a little bit.