We started with the shrimp cocktail, which was almost perfect (the jumbos were a bit too big and just slightly overdone, but this is just me picking a nit. The ginger aioli was a great addition. My Caesar was out of sight. Stunning. The table side presentation just adds to the love I have for this dish, and this restaurant. The flavors - bright lemon quickly absorbed into a rich emulsion of sweet oil, slightly spicy, acidic mustard, a shot of garlic - which is tied together with the most slight hint of anchovy - creating this savory package that finishes with a touch of garlic heat. Each bite was an absolute pleasure and a study in exceptional thought about the nature of this classic dish.
Jessie went with the "Wedge", which was a noble attempt at updating the now resurrected steakhouse classic, just didn't take off. The tomatoes were mealy and flavorless, gritty almost - and distracted from the overall salad. Sometimes, you have to go out on a ledge (the beet "maki" salad looked excellent), other times, you can't delude your diners. This one could have won with a great tomato, but a tomato compote / reduction at the bottom of the plate does not make up for a bad tomato. I was willing to give it a 7, but, Jessie was in the 5 range. Tough break, and the only one of the meal.
The sommalier service was stunningly exceptional. I didn't even catch her name - but she was exactly what one expects (and thensome) from a good sommalier. We had a great dialogue about thier Rhone-side of the menu, and settled on a Patrick Jasmin Cote-Rotie (2000) that was perfect with the steak. No upselling (I mentioned a $160 bottle I wanted; she steered me towards the Cote-Rotie [which is what I wanted in the first place!]), a fluid conversation, exceptional insights, and she even ensured our glasses were topped off (when the waiter was otherwise occupied), and even checked back twice to ensure we were enjoying the bottle.
I could write on and on and on for pages about the steak. Jessie went with the South Side bone-in filet, which had a GREAT crust. She was in love with it from first bite, and went as far to inform me that I could be replaced by this steak. My 65 day ribeye was beyond comparison. Minerally rich, a beefy, delicious tang and a tenderness that belies such an "old" piece of meat. I wish I could thank the steer that gave it's life so honorably, and the chef who had the intuition to respect that sacrifice to create this steak. The waiter asked how I liked my steak - and I blurted out "Absolutely ****ing magnificent, the best steak of my life." The waiter beamed back "I've always wanted to hear that! That's what I want to tell the customers - this is the most ****ing amazing steak you will ever eat". He's right, it is.
Jessie, a medium well kinda gal, went to a Medium+ for her bone-in. The crust on this steak, as I alluded to before, was just delicious. The flavor in this cut was nice, very tender, and very well put together. For a filet, this was a great presentation. Jessie was clearly smitten.
We did tempura green beans and the twice baked potato (filled with a broccoli gratin), which were very nice. But I couldn't imagine eating anything but the steak. The tempura was quite nice, but it seemed a bit greasy to me (Jessie completely disagreed). The twice baked potato was enjoyable and provided a good dose of green coated in a healthy slug of cheddar cheese, which is what any good chef should do with greenery. We rounded out with a glass of the 77 Warres port (I was yearning for the Maderia flight), the cheesecake tree, and espressos each. All I needed was a Partagas P or a Aurora Preforido and I would have in heaven. The service was outstanding - there when we needed it, invisible when required, and filling in the parts inbetween - and I was simply smitten overall.
Primehouse was the singular best steak I have ever had in my life. I could drown the meal in superlatives and flowy prose but that doesn't do it justice. Exceptional service, amazing meats, probably the most flawless and integrated Caesar salad I've ever had the pleasure of eating, and a great wine list. In my (all too recent) consulting days, I seemed to hit every "I'm a captain of industry" steak joint with clients across our fair nation. What always grates against me is that these places think that they can put big prices on the menu, serve room temperature Chateau Montelena and throw a short, attitude-laden waiter at you and you'll have a great meal. Primehouse short-cuts all of that and let's the food shine, with a modern atmosphere and naugahyde tables (I agree with Gary, they are ugly, but hey, I like a change of pace from white linen and oak panels), with exceptional service to boot.
Did I mention that I loved this meal?
) But, I will try to be there...
Watch for flying chairs!
