I haven't been in a couple of years, but I will say if you're going to eat, go to the seafood place upstairs where the locals go. I think it's called Barbara's. They only take cash, and the atmosphere is pure fish shack, but the food is outstanding. There's also an art cooperative on the main drag which had some pretty neat stuff and mostly local artists.
Judy's taxi (may not be Judy's anymore) is a cool experience in itself - she knows alot about the history of the place. Also, my son and I took a wildlife cruise from the pier. The captain was a retired state biologist and the trip was facinating.
If the wind is from the south, the crosswind disappears suddenly at about 20-30' AGL as you drop behind the trees. No big deal if you're ready for it.
John