Car Advice - Cold Weather - Toyota Corolla

No problem doing it, it's not a bad idea to check the balance every now and then since sometimes wheel weights come off. Unless I see a wear issue in the tires, have drive ability issues, or have been hitting big potholes/running on rough roads, I won't bother with alignment at tire rotation, at change of tires is frequent enough. More than likely they are rolling it on the rack and finding everything in spec.

Thanks for this advice!
 
Like Henning I get an alignment with a new set of tires, and don't mess with it unless something comes up that requires it.

I do get my tires re-balanced with every rotation.

I am starting to see that I don't need all the alignments I've asked for!
 
I'm at work but thanks for all the responses so far. I'll read through them this evening.
 
Though alignment shops almost universally underestimate how well you can feel a pull. It's been years since a shop has gotten an alignment done to my satisfaction on the first try.

Ugh I am dealing with this now. I bought a 2004 Acura that had a worn out set of tires. Alignment was dead on though when I bought it. I put new tires on it and replaced the struts and shocks too. Took it to get an alignment and when I got it back, the wheel was left of center. Took it back to get it fixed, now wheel is right of center AND it pulls slightly to the left now.

Merchant's tire. Paid $90 for the alignment (way too much) but they were open on Saturday so it was a convenience. I used to take my cars to Raleigh tire who only charges $60 and got my pathfinder dead on the first time.

MAKG had another good comment. I know of at least one alignment shop that will check the alignment for free. Ask for the print-out. They only charge if they need to put a wrench on the thing.
 
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Yes, but that would cause poor running when WARM, as a dead CTS says it's -40 deg out.

Usually, but only if it outright burns out and creates an open circuit (R = infinity). That's what usually happens, but there are other ways they can malfunction, such as due to intermittent faults, corrosion, damage to the tip, and so forth. In those cases they could show neither zero nor infinity resistance, either of which would trigger a code and a light the MIL; but the data they're sending is facocta.

In any case, it's an easy enough thing to check, an easy enough problem to fix, and can cause so many different sorts of problems, that I always like to rule it out early.

-Rich
 
Usually, but only if it outright burns out and creates an open circuit (R = infinity). That's what usually happens, but there are other ways they can malfunction, such as due to intermittent faults, corrosion, damage to the tip, and so forth. In those cases they could show neither zero nor infinity resistance, either of which would trigger a code and a light the MIL; but the data they're sending is facocta.

In any case, it's an easy enough thing to check, an easy enough problem to fix, and can cause so many different sorts of problems, that I always like to rule it out early.

-Rich
It can also go to dead short with a chaffed wire.
 
My #1 advice to you is to buy the factory service manual printed by Toyota. They are probably $50-100 but its an invaluable resource. Don't **** around with the $25 manuals you see at autozone, get the real deal.

Not this post, but generally, guys some of the advice on this thread is straight crazy.


Anyway, the cheapest and easiest way to get the Toyota factory service manual is to access the Toyota Dealer support website. I believe it is about $20 for 24 hours. Then download ALL the manuals (PDF form) for this car and any other Toyota/Lexus/Scion you have in your family.

https://techinfo.toyota.com

You need to create an account, but it's easy to do.

Keep in mind there are usually about 50 PDF's for one car.
 
A trick in some shops is to ask them to CHECK the alignment.

Then, you get charged only if they make an adjustment. If it's necessary, so be it.

Thanks!
 
How much are they charging you for them and how frequently are you doing them?

Well, I'm a bit lazy. I would say I rotate tires every other year. When I get new tires, the alignment is included, of course; but when I go in for a rotation and balance, I think they charge like $50?
 
Well, I'm a bit lazy. I would say I rotate tires every other year. When I get new tires, the alignment is included, of course; but when I go in for a rotation and balance, I think they charge like $50?

Then they aren't charging for alignment, or just a very minimal 'check alignment' fee. They're doing you right.
 
Then they aren't charging for alignment, or just a very minimal 'check alignment' fee. They're doing you right.

That's good to know. I found a local garage I like, and they've always done good work for me.

They also do nice extras. For example, at the last inspection I bought a new set of RainX wipers (highly recommend), and a cabin air filter. I intended to put them in myself, since it's so easy, but they threw it in for free.
 
DIY'ers tend to just throw parts at things. We've all done it.



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My favorite gimmick is Autozone offering to pull the codes on a car for free. Well as you know a code reader doesn't say, "replace this part". I had a friend with a check engine light go down there. They said you need a knock sensor it's $168. He calls me and says they want to sell him a knock sensor. I told him if those people could fix anything on a car they'd be working as a mechanic not retail for minimum wage. Anyway, it was just old gas, the knock sensor was working as designed.

I agree with your and at least on other poster's recommendation based on the following:

IF we apply logic to what limited information we have about this problem. It only idles strangely in cold weather.

So…..

It is not a cold start injector since they don't have one.

It is not fuel pressure, not temperature effected.

It is not the ignition system, it would run better cold if anything.

It is not a dead short, wouldn't go away with warmer weather.

It is not a bad ground, would get worse with heat not better.

It is not an open circuit, it would not get better with temperature.

The throttle body is undoubtedly dirty and in need of cleaning, but would probably not cause this specific problem.

The IAC is the logical place to start. If we can all agree on that we can move forward.
 
My favorite gimmick is Autozone offering to pull the codes on a car for free. Well as you know a code reader doesn't say, "replace this part". I had a friend with a check engine light go down there. They said you need a knock sensor it's $168. He calls me and says they want to sell him a knock sensor. I told him if those people could fix anything on a car they'd be working as a mechanic not retail for minimum wage. Anyway, it was just old gas, the knock sensor was working as designed.

I agree with your and at least on other poster's recommendation based on the following:

IF we apply logic to what limited information we have about this problem. It only idles strangely in cold weather.

So…..

It is not a cold start injector since they don't have one.

It is not fuel pressure, not temperature effected.

It is not the ignition system, it would run better cold if anything.

It is not a dead short, wouldn't go away with warmer weather.

It is not a bad ground, would get worse with heat not better.

It is not an open circuit, it would not get better with temperature.

The throttle body is undoubtedly dirty and in need of cleaning, but would probably not cause this specific problem.

The IAC is the logical place to start. If we can all agree on that we can move forward.

You had me all the way up to the emboldened part.... the air gap around the throttle plates when at base idle position is a "fixed orifice" the IAC is designed to work in conjunction with that designed "fixed orifice" based on a preset lookup table of parameters as it is running in open loop mode when cold. In other words it is entirely possible that a simple throttle body service could fix this problem. :yesnod: Again, retired ase master auto, advanced engine performance and toyota certified technician's two cents worth. ;)
 
You had me all the way up to the emboldened part.... the air gap around the throttle plates when at base idle position is a "fixed orifice" the IAC is designed to work in conjunction with that designed "fixed orifice" based on a preset lookup table of parameters as it is running in open loop mode when cold. In other words it is entirely possible that a simple throttle body service could fix this problem. :yesnod: Again, retired ase master auto, advanced engine performance and toyota certified technician's two cents worth. ;)

Given the idle is hunting, I would start with the IAC just because I suspect the bypass chamber is full of crap. Of course cleaning the throttle body is a smart thing to do while there, so half-dozen of one. I'm also an ex dealer tech.:wink2:
 
If the ECT and the IAT are within 2 degrees, the problem most likely lies in the operation of the IAC.
Alignments consist of camber, caster and toe adjustments. On some cars the camber is not adjustable and the caster is a pain in the butt to adjust. Most shops adjust the toe and call it an alignment.
When you have worn inner edges, smooth not scalloped, it's a camber issue. The body of the car has relaxed and on non camber adjustable cars, a camber kit has to be installed at considerable cost.
Tires are balanced when they are rotated because an out of balance rear tire will be felt when it's moved to the front. This causes a comeback issue for the tech and he has to re rack the car, remove the wheels and balance at no charge. The customer complaint is "It didn't shake before you rotated the tires".
A proper alignment including set up, before and after readings, trying to loosen rusted and frozen bolts will take a couple of hours and well above $60. For $60 it's a profit point for the shop and a feel good repair for the customer. You only get toe adjustment within a few degrees of each side.
 
Given the idle is hunting, I would start with the IAC just because I suspect the bypass chamber is full of crap. Of course cleaning the throttle body is a smart thing to do while there, so half-dozen of one. I'm also an ex dealer tech.:wink2:

fair 'nuff - next part is putting an eyeball on it either way B)
 
Given the idle is hunting, I would start with the IAC just because I suspect the bypass chamber is full of crap. Of course cleaning the throttle body is a smart thing to do while there, so half-dozen of one. I'm also an ex dealer tech.:wink2:

This seems likely. However, I think you've overlooked a vacuum leak. Sometimes the aluminum parts move around as they warm up.

Toyota sticks have idle switches in the transmission that can cause the idle to hunt. Real easy to test, though. It may sound odd, but I've seen temperature sensitive switch failures.

IF the IAC is indeed full of crap, change the PCV valve and consider more frequent oil changes or maybe synthetic oil.
 
This seems likely. However, I think you've overlooked a vacuum leak. Sometimes the aluminum parts move around as they warm up.

Toyota sticks have idle switches in the transmission that can cause the idle to hunt. Real easy to test, though. It may sound odd, but I've seen temperature sensitive switch failures.

IF the IAC is indeed full of crap, change the PCV valve and consider more frequent oil changes or maybe synthetic oil.

Of course there are a lot of possibilities, but in terms of probability where you would start?

As Jaybee mentioned this seems be isolated to an open loop problem. Cleaning this area up is not a big job and doesn't cost anything. Not to mention every Toyota I've seen with 200K has a lot of funk around the throttle body IAC area, so even if it does nothing to solve the problem, it isn't wasted time.
 
My favorite gimmick is Autozone offering to pull the codes on a car for free. Well as you know a code reader doesn't say, "replace this part". I had a friend with a check engine light go down there. They said you need a knock sensor it's $168. He calls me and says they want to sell him a knock sensor. I told him if those people could fix anything on a car they'd be working as a mechanic not retail for minimum wage. Anyway, it was just old gas, the knock sensor was working as designed.

I agree with your and at least on other poster's recommendation based on the following:

IF we apply logic to what limited information we have about this problem. It only idles strangely in cold weather.

So…..

It is not a cold start injector since they don't have one.

It is not fuel pressure, not temperature effected.

It is not the ignition system, it would run better cold if anything.

It is not a dead short, wouldn't go away with warmer weather.

It is not a bad ground, would get worse with heat not better.

It is not an open circuit, it would not get better with temperature.

The throttle body is undoubtedly dirty and in need of cleaning, but would probably not cause this specific problem.

The IAC is the logical place to start. If we can all agree on that we can move forward.

I believe the fuel pressure is still worth checking. The temp does not affect the fuel pressure ok, but the vehicle is enrichened by a longer pulse width to the injector. It counts on the fuel pressure being correct. On many vehicles you will not notice slightly low pressure in normal driveability. I have seen it with my own eyes and fixed it with my own hands. If a poorly running fuel injected boat comes in my shop, fuel pressure at the rail is one of the first things we check. It takes no time at all to do and shows a number of things are working correctly eliminating them as possibilities.

As I mentioned up thread a quick check of Toyota forums shows that many people have had almost the identical problems from a leaky gasket.

IAC (idle air controller) is a very strong possibility.



Obviously we are not all going to agree, the OP will have to decide for himself what advice to follow. I've hired many mechanics that use different troubleshooting techniques to accomplish the same job.

Be very aware that as Alex mentioned above me, many trouble codes are caused not by the circuit that is indicated as a fault or out of range. You have to understand how the different items in the system interact and then do some additional testing to isolate the problem.
 
Of course there are a lot of possibilities, but in terms of probability where you would start?

As Jaybee mentioned this seems be isolated to an open loop problem. Cleaning this area up is not a big job and doesn't cost anything. Not to mention every Toyota I've seen with 200K has a lot of funk around the throttle body IAC area, so even if it does nothing to solve the problem, it isn't wasted time.

AMEN !

whoudda thunk ? some former techs giving some advice based on real life experience.

no offense to toyota car forums but i would be highly, no check that extremely surprised if cleaning throttle body and iac doesn't fix it.

but hey, whadda i know :idea: :lol:

and as said, 2 bucks for some carb clean and 10 minutes top of underhood time.
 
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