I didn't handle it on the ground at all, but I did get some bonus stick time recently in a WACO in NC when I paid for a ride and there was nobody else to put up front with me. The pilot put the front stick in and let me fly it for most of the scenic flight.
My impression flying it was that flies pretty much like it looks: lotsa power, but very draggy. Very stable and forgiving, but to fly it nicely you have to get your feet programmed to do what it wants. I kept noticing the ball touching the right-hand line... not sure what that was about, but if I just thought about adding a little pressure with my right foot, it was fine.
I tried some Dutch rolls, but found that I'd need a bit more practice in that plane before I could do that smoothly... the timing of stick and rudder movement required was pretty alien to me. It's not quite like any Cessna I've flown, or even the Champ or the J3s I've flown.
It is a lot of fun! Excellent visibility despite the big slab o' wing overhead, and the little windscreen keeps the wind off your face, but not out of your hair. Perfect.
I mostly just tried to keep it straight and level, but when we approached the old lighthouse at Bald Head, I just had to do a tight-ish turn around it. It was pretty sloppy, but I held my altitude (600 feet- weee!!). I took it all the way back to the entry to downwind, then he took over.
The approach and landing showed me how sprightly it can be in experienced hands- he carried just enough power to keep the sink rate under control as he hauled it around in a classic "modified base"- more like a flat "U" than a rectangle, if you know what I mean.
The vis over the nose from the rear cockpit can't be very good, but the wings don't quite block your peripheral vision when landing. He made it look easy; a very good landing.
Good luck finding one used for training... a Stearman is a more likely bet, but even that will probably not be available for solo flight. And, uh, rather expensive... those big radials are extremely thirsty beasts, and the insurance, etc., etc. There's a Stearman near me, dual-only, that goes for $200/hr with the instructor. Not a bad deal, but not cheap, that's for sure.
That won't stop me from flying it this summer...
... but if I were looking to do the tailwheel add-on, I'd shoot for something a little more affordable, and preferably something I could fly solo once I get the nod.
There's a Champ at Clow that's available for solo rental; you might consider that for the tailwheel add-on. Not quite as exciting as an open cockpit, but you can cruise with the window open and your elbow out in the breeze, and they're pretty drafty.
And it's just different enough (from the later-era trikes you're probably most familiar with) that it's still a fun challenge with a little romance to it.
Like hand-propping... can't get more "romantic" than that!
Just be sure to put the white scarf on
after you prop it...