Best way to glue/weld plastic on my headset

ejensen

ejensen

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Eric Jensen
The plastic ring at the base of the mic boom had developed a big crack. Unless I can fix it I might have to buy those new Lightspeeds.:D But I like the DRE6000s and wouldn't mind if they lasted another couple years. Manufacturer is out of business so I'm on my own. I tried epoxy and it didn't stick. Anyone know of a glue or solvent weld that might work. Not sure what kind of plastic it is.
 
Did you give the epoxy enough time? If JB Weld can't fix it--you don't need it.
 
I've found that almost all industrial/consumer plastic cannot be glued under any circumstance. Only the polystyrene airplane models I used to make would stick together with any sort of glue. There's PVC pipe of course, but that's another story.

Maybe try some duct tape?
 
Did you try super glue? That sometime works on clean ABS. If not go to the model shop and get a 2-part epoxy that the modelers use. I have yet to find a plastic that did not work with, get the quick set (5 minutes not the 30 minute stuff).
 
can you send us a pic Eric? Trying to image the location and the types of stresses it experiences.
 
Eric,

If the plastic has a high content of oil (like polypropylene/polyethylene) in it you will have a problem with alot of of glue. One thing that might work is hot air welding I have one at my shop; let me know if I can be of any help. I have a problem with my clutch master cylinder on my Beretta and I needed to weld it glue would not work. No I could not just buy the little cup that holds the fluid if I wanted it GM said I needed to buy the master cylinder.

Bob
 
rmciottijr said:
Eric,

If the plastic has a high content of oil (like polypropylene/polyethylene) in it you will have a problem with alot of of glue. One thing that might work is hot air welding I have one at my shop; let me know if I can be of any help. I have a problem with my clutch master cylinder on my Beretta and I needed to weld it glue would not work. No I could not just buy the little cup that holds the fluid if I wanted it GM said I needed to buy the master cylinder.

Bob
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Gotta watch what is underneath the material when you use that technique. Like if there are wires with thin plastic insulation on them. You run the risk of melting that off and causing a short in the mic circuit. So if you do this you would have to take all of that boom apart including the wires. Sometimes they can be a pain to get back in though the boom too.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
can you send us a pic Eric? Trying to image the location and the types of stresses it experiences.
Click to expand...

I should have time later to post a pick. Just got done putting the yard to bed for the winter and now the wife wants to go out to eat.:)

The crack is in the circle of plastic that the mike boom pivots on. Center of the disk screws to the earcup. Fair amount of stress when you push/pull the mike away from your mouth. Also when you pivot the boom but that direction is still partially intact.

I left the epoxy overnight. It just peeled off.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
You might want to add something to absorb the stress, perhaps a disc of plastic or metal as a "doubler"; agree, need to see a picture to engineer what you need, but there ain't nothin' can't be fixed.
 
OK, here are pictures.
 

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I'd take a piece if aluminum stock, maybe 2.5" long and 3/4"-1" wide; round the ends (or at least grind 'em to take the sharp corners of), drill a hole for the thumbscrew, install it adjacent to the earcup, attach the mic boom to it with a good 2-part epoxy (or drill 2 or 3 hole pairs and tie-wrap it). Sort of a splint.

If you have time and motivation, you could put a conforming curve in the part that will be supporting the boom, and you could even paint or anodize it black, if you wanted to get fancy.

I know it'd work, done well, it would even look decent (not that it matters so mcuh(.

Ideas, anyone?
 
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I don't think my first choice would be glue...looks like it takes a lot of bending and rotatory stresses there.
I would try to splint it.
It looks like the circular part has a hole in it, and the knobby thing screws into the hole and tensions the circular part.
If so, I would cut a piece of 032 or 040 aluminum in the shape of a skeleton keyhole (with the round part the same size as your circular part, and the 'long part' about 2" long and 1/4" wide). Drill a hole in the center of the round part to accomodate the tensioner knob screw.
Install, with the round aluminum part under the circular broken piece, and screw the knob back on. Align the 'long part' with the boom. Affix the long part to the boom with some tiny geared clamps. (now, blunt or protect all sharp edges)
Need a diagram?
It will last until you can get a new boom from the company, ebay or a radio shop that has a hundred old headsets to pick through!
 
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Eric, post me

the diameter of the broken circle
the OD of the threads on the knob
the diameter of the boom
your mailing address

I have everything you need in my shop and can send it to you tomorrow.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Eric, post me

the diameter of the broken circle
the OD of the threads on the knob
the diameter of the boom
your mailing address

I have everything you need in my shop and can send it to you tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. Tonight when I get home, I'll get the numbers.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
I don't think my first choice would be glue...looks like it takes a lot of bending and rotatory stresses there.
I would try to splint it.
It looks like the circular part has a hole in it, and the knobby thing screws into the hole and tensions the circular part.
If so, I would cut a piece of 032 or 040 aluminum in the shape of a skeleton keyhole (with the round part the same size as your circular part, and the 'long part' about 2" long and 1/4" wide). Drill a hole in the center of the round part to accomodate the tensioner knob screw.
Install, with the round aluminum part under the circular broken piece, and screw the knob back on. Align the 'long part' with the boom. Affix the long part to the boom with some tiny geared clamps. (now, blunt or protect all sharp edges)
Need a diagram?
It will last until you can get a new boom from the company, ebay or a radio shop that has a hundred old headsets to pick through!
Click to expand...

Doc - is this the same as building an artificial knee for a small animal? You amaze me, sir! :)
 
smigaldi said:
Looking at the fracture and the type of material that would probably be the best solution. OR acquire another boom from a similar headset and just replace. But at this point I would say it is a very good excuse for a new headset.
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I'm watching ebay.:)

You're right I should just buy new. But I hate throwing anything away and I liked the performance.
 
ejensen said:
I'm watching ebay.:)

You're right I should just buy new. But I hate throwing anything away and I liked the performance.
Click to expand...

I have a DRE, too. As we discussed I had a nut come off, but I'm going to be off to Ace to find a generic one that will work. I don't think mine is the same model so we can't put them together to have a parts set.
 
gkainz said:
Doc - is this the same as building an artificial knee for a small animal? You amaze me, sir! :)
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not hardly, but thanks Greg. :)
Once you see how simple the piece is you will go, 'oh jeez'!
(But it will be backed by a full 30 minute warrantee!)
Spike and I had the same idea at the same time(well, he won by minutes) so we will put our heads together and send Eric something.
My usual policy will apply...if it works, I get the credit - if not, he gets the blame...fair enough?
 
mikea said:
I have a DRE, too. As we discussed I had a nut come off, but I'm going to be off to Ace to find a generic one that will work. I don't think mine is the same model so we can't put them together to have a parts set.
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Yes, I remember your trouble. Guess you didn't find the part in the carpet. Hope Ace works. They surprised me Saturday when they had the tiny set screws for the radio knobs, #4x1/8.

IFAIK DRE only made one ANR model, the 6000. They were working on another when they disappeared.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
not hardly, but thanks Greg. :)
Once you see how simple the piece is you will go, 'oh jeez'!
(But it will be backed by a full 30 minute warrantee!)
Spike and I had the same idea at the same time(well, he won by minutes) so we will put our heads together and send Eric something.
My usual policy will apply...if it works, I get the credit - if not, he gets the blame...fair enough?
Click to expand...

Deal:yes:
 
ejensen said:
Yes, I remember your trouble. Guess you didn't find the part in the carpet. Hope Ace works. They surprised me Saturday when they had the tiny set screws for the radio knobs, #4x1/8.

IFAIK DRE only made one ANR model, the 6000. They were working on another when they disappeared.
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I was thinking mine was different but I guess I missed what end of the boom has the crack on yours. You can see the nut that's missing here.
 
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mikea said:
I was thinking mine was different but I guess I missed what end of the boom has the crack on yours. You can see the nut that's missing here.
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Funny. Looking at the picture I see that the cable is loose from the strain relief. I unbolted it to see if I could put the cable back in. I had no idea that the cord was removable! :D

I'll heatshrink or tape it up. I bought some of that sucker self adhesive repair tape at Oshkosh. Now if I can find it.

Wouldn't it be nice if I could order a replacement cord?

We should start a parts depot. No DREs on eBay right now.
 
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Eric,

What you could do is have someone make a metal part the will wrap around the boom acting as a clamp with a flat round plate that you can put under the screw. Or you can make the round plate with a flat extension and maybe screw it in place. The first might cost more then it is worth but it is an Idea. here are some drawings I know they stink but it will give you an idea what I am talking about.

BOb
 

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Cracked right where the boom leaves the earcup by that knurled nut.

Looks like you could use a new cable too. Do I see copper?
 
rmciottijr said:
Eric,

What you could do is have someone make a metal part the will wrap around the boom acting as a clamp with a flat round plate that you can put under the screw. Or you can make the round plate with a flat extension and maybe screw it in place. The first might cost more then it is worth but it is an Idea. here are some drawings I know they stink but it will give you an idea what I am talking about.

BOb
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think that's what Spike and Dave are suggesting. I'll give it some thought, you're right it isn't worth alot of time.
 
ejensen said:
Thanks, I think that's what Spike and Dave are suggesting. I'll give it some thought, you're right it isn't worth alot of time.
Click to expand...

Dave has already transmitted the CAD files to the CNC shop. :D
 
ejensen said:
Thanks, I think that's what Spike and Dave are suggesting. I'll give it some thought, you're right it isn't worth alot of time.
Click to expand...


Oops. I guess I should read all the post huh sorry Spike and Dave. Oh did I mention Drawing not to scale lol.

Eric if you need or want the part made let me know a laser or water jet does great work.
 
ejensen said:
Cracked right where the boom leaves the earcup by that knurled nut.

Looks like you could use a new cable too. Do I see copper?
Click to expand...

Yep. I'll beef up the strain relief.

I didn't notice until I saw the pictures.

I guess I should pay attention because I'll need a new headset in a year or two.
 
Dave, Spike, Bob,
You folks are way too generous. Thank you.

I got home tonight and started measuring for Dave. First thing the remain plastic let go. I started looking them over and realized I should let them go and take the wife up on the early Christmas present. Still hate not being able to fix things but sounds like Mike can use the parts. I will remember your generosity and take you up on it when the project is worth you time. Thanks again.
 
mikea said:
Yep. I'll beef up the strain relief.

I didn't notice until I saw the pictures.

I guess I should pay attention because I'll need a new headset in a year or two.
Click to expand...

I convinced myself that mine are beyond reasonable repair. Do you want the carcass? PM me an address.

Eric
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
okey dokey, had us excited there.
Click to expand...
I could tell, I was too.:) I got home and started measuring. Found there was a step down from the ring the the boom. And I was having trouble figuring how the new reinforcing plate would attach to the ring area and stay out of the way of the nut and washers. Anyway, I think it would have worked but there were issues with the battery box and some other plastic parts. I got over 6 good years out of them, close to 1000 hours. Not terrible for a $300 headset.
 
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