Areoshell 100 for winter?

simtech

simtech

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Simtech
Well its time for an oil change on my new to me plane. The previous owner has in the logs that he always changed oil with Areoshell w100. Is that a good year round oil for the southeast or would I be better getting the aeroshell 15w50 multigrade??
 
Aeroshell 15/50? Oh hell no! If you want to go to a multi weight then go to Phillips but, in the south, you'll likely be fine with 100w
 
Read your manual...
See the attachment for what mine says. I am putting in W80 and preheating.
 

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simtech said:
Well its time for an oil change on my new to me plane. The previous owner has in the logs that he always changed oil with Areoshell w100. Is that a good year round oil for the southeast or would I be better getting the aeroshell 15w50 multigrade??
Click to expand...

What engine do you have?

Multigrade + camguard is a recipe that will almost certainly work all year without having to worry about what flavor of straight weight oil is in your case.
 
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I've run multi weight year round in my Stinson and now the 185F (both already were running multi weight when I bought them), nothing but a positive experince, from the desert to the snow.

In GA or FL you could get away with running 100 year round, its a little cheaper, and easier to find at FBOs too.

Of course check your POH
 
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Aeroshell 100 (like any other SAE 50 single grade oil) is unsuitable for use when ambient temperatures are below 60F. You can find this in the service publications for both Lycoming and Continental engines. Below that temperature, you need either a lighter weight single-grade oil or a multigrade such as Aeroshell 15W50, Phillips X/C 20W50, or Exxon Elite 15W50. So, I'd say Aeroshell 15W50 is a lot better choice for winter oil than Aeroshell 100 unless you live in South Florida or South Texas or somewhere else that the temperature stays above 60F all the time. And you won't have to be changing the oil every time you change the clocks if you use multigrade.

See Lycoming Service Instruction 1014M for more details on the Lycoming side. Search tcmlink.com for specific engine models for Continental's recommendations. And FWIW, I use Exxon Elite 20W50 in my plane year round in Maryland.
 
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The only reason to go to a lighter weight oil is if your engine cranks slow when it's cold.

If it is cranking and starting OK, leave it alone.
 
Norman said:
Phillips XC 20W50.
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:yeahthat:

Great stuff. Been using it 9 years, never any warm or cold issues. I fly from TX up into CO. If it's really cold in CO I'll drain out the oil when I land and put it back in when I am ready to go. I would do the same with any other oil but this stuff just work, and works, and works.
 
Tom-D said:
The only reason to go to a lighter weight oil is if your engine cranks slow when it's cold.

If it is cranking and starting OK, leave it alone.
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Good advice.....

If it cranks ok,,, thicker viscosity is your friend...:yes::yes:
 
Ron Levy said:
Aeroshell 100 (like any other SAE 50 single grade oil) is unsuitable for use when ambient temperatures are below 60F. You can find this in the service publications for both Lycoming and Continental engines.
Click to expand...

My O470-L states that 100W is acceptable down to 40dF. And, since I never start my engine until I've preheated my engine (and oil) to 50dF, I don't worry about it much.

And, once the engine is started, it couldn't give a **** about what the ambient temperature is. Well, unless it's like 0dF (or below) anyway. And if gets that cold in Missouri, you ain't gonna find this kid in anywhere near an airplane.
 
Tom-D said:
The only reason to go to a lighter weight oil is if your engine cranks slow when it's cold.

If it is cranking and starting OK, leave it alone.
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I know of no engine manufacturer which agrees with Tom. Choose wisely.
 
Ron Levy said:
I know of no engine manufacturer which agrees with Tom. Choose wisely.
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Do you know why they want lighter oil in the engine when it's colder?

What's the theory behind the need?
 
Ron Levy said:
I know of no engine manufacturer which agrees with Tom. Choose wisely.
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Actually - they all do. Right back to round engines, and forward to the most modern Toyota engines which spec multi-vis. Cold start is the basis for mulit-vis oils. The entire reason there are multi-vis oils is that cold starting is when the oil fails and metal contacts metal.
 
timwinters said:
My O470-L states that 100W is acceptable down to 40dF. And, since I never start my engine until I've preheated my engine (and oil) to 50dF, I don't worry about it much.

And, once the engine is started, it couldn't give a **** about what the ambient temperature is. Well, unless it's like 0dF (or below) anyway. And if gets that cold in Missouri, you ain't gonna find this kid in anywhere near an airplane.
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Exactly. !
 
simtech said:
Well its time for an oil change on my new to me plane. The previous owner has in the logs that he always changed oil with Areoshell w100. Is that a good year round oil for the southeast or would I be better getting the aeroshell 15w50 multigrade??
Click to expand...

Not the Aeroshell, the Phillips if you want multi viscosity. The Synthetic base stock used in oil does not play well with 100LL, it was engineered for MoGas which is quite different. In Mississippi you could keep using the 100w as long as you preheat on the cold days.
 
timwinters said:
My O470-L states that 100W is acceptable down to 40dF. And, since I never start my engine until I've preheated my engine (and oil) to 50dF, I don't worry about it much.

And, once the engine is started, it couldn't give a **** about what the ambient temperature is. Well, unless it's like 0dF (or below) anyway. And if gets that cold in Missouri, you ain't gonna find this kid in anywhere near an airplane.
Click to expand...

I've taken off in -25F.... Free horsepower and i was warm from the ankles down.
 
docmirror said:
Actually - they all do. Right back to round engines, and forward to the most modern Toyota engines which spec multi-vis. Cold start is the basis for mulit-vis oils. The entire reason there are multi-vis oils is that cold starting is when the oil fails and metal contacts metal.
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And.... If his engine cranks and starts good why mess with it?

This guy ain't tying down out side in Nome.
 
My personal choice is aero shell 15/50. Have used it in three airplanes with no problems.
 
simtech said:
Well its time for an oil change on my new to me plane. The previous owner has in the logs that he always changed oil with Areoshell w100. Is that a good year round oil for the southeast or would I be better getting the aeroshell 15w50 multigrade??
Click to expand...

Why do you mention 15w50 variable weight? Did a mechanic recommend this? Someone must have. What do other aircraft owners in your area use during the various seasons? You should be able to get your answer from them and the mechanics at your airport. It obvious that in cold weather a thinner oil gets to the cylinder walls quicker than a thicker oil. It's also well known that a great deal of wear in the engine occurs on startup before the oil circulates entirely. It's pretty easy to look this up and decide. Personally, I use 15-50 year round , on the advice of two older excellent mechanics plus what I've read over the years. Never had a problem in over 45 years. I hope those from the northern states and Alaska will chime in here.
 
Tom-D said:
The only reason to go to a lighter weight oil is if your engine cranks slow when it's cold.



If it is cranking and starting OK, leave it alone.
Click to expand...


Ah...respectively I'd like to see the supporting evidence you used for that being the only reason.

1st, a multi-viscosity oil will get up to the critical parts sooner than a single weight, especially in winter, reducing cold start wear.

2nd and more importantly the straight 50w oil, at cold temps increase the odds of the oil congealing in a oil cooler. I personally in my Mooney m20j had 20w-50w phillips congeal in my oil cooler in cruise when it got to -38c! Oil temp went from 165 to 220 in 5 min!

This was my fault as I didn't have my oil cooler block of plate installed. If a good multi viscosity oil congealed at cold temps a straight 50w will certainly congeal before the multi oil....

The 15w-50 oil doesn't keep the led suspended as well. If we switch to unleade fuel it could be a good choice, right now I would encourage anyone running it to google "mike busch all about oil", and my guess is you will stop running it.
 
Tom-D said:
Do you know why they want lighter oil in the engine when it's colder?

What's the theory behind the need?
Click to expand...

With a Continental I would to save starter drives, those puppies are expensive.
 
I bought a shop light with a 60 watt bulb to stick in the cowl flap on cold days before flying. It gets the oil temp close to 60 according to the engine monitor.
 
Jimmy cooper said:
Personally, I use 15-50 year round , on the advice of two older excellent mechanics plus what I've read over the years. Never had a problem in over 45 years. I hope those from the northern states and Alaska will chime in here.
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I don't live too far north anymore, but I have yet to work on an airplane that is running a straight weight oil. Everyone I know is running 20w50 XC or 15w50 Aeroshell these days.
 
Jimmy cooper said:
Why do you mention 15w50 variable weight? Did a mechanic recommend this? Someone must have. What do other aircraft owners in your area use during the various seasons? You should be able to get your answer from them and the mechanics at your airport. It obvious that in cold weather a thinner oil gets to the cylinder walls quicker than a thicker oil. It's also well known that a great deal of wear in the engine occurs on startup before the oil circulates entirely. It's pretty easy to look this up and decide. Personally, I use 15-50 year round , on the advice of two older excellent mechanics plus what I've read over the years. Never had a problem in over 45 years. I hope those from the northern states and Alaska will chime in here.
Click to expand...

Actually, the cylinder walls can get by with miniscule amounts of oil. It's those bearings and cam and lifter faces that really need it. Thick oil doesn't move easily, and sure doesn't suck easily through the oil pickup tube into the pump. You can start an engine and have some time before oil starts going where it should.

We used 15W50 year round in Alberta, and we didn't fly below -25°C (-32°F). We had a heated hangar, insulated cowling covers, and heaters for overnight cross-countries. I used to stick quarts of several different oils in the fridge freezer and show the students what it looked like when it was a few degrees below freezing. The 100 would barely pour. 80 was better but still slow. The 15W50 moved just fine.

Dan
 
Aaronk25 said:
I would encourage anyone running it to google "mike busch all about oil"
Click to expand...

That was a good webinar! Mike Busch claims cold weather starting is below freezing. So we rarely get that here and if we do Im not gonna be flying anyway. He also recommends monograde oil over multi unless you plan to have sub freezing starts. His recommendation is Aeroshell w100 with cam guard or Areoshell w100 plus. He breaks down why he is against synthetic blends due to lead and its inability to suspend particles and clean.

So.....after listening to him for almost 2 hours Im gonna go with the Aeroshell w100 plus and the bonus is I can buy it by the case locally.

To those who haven't listened to his webinar here it is http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
check it out.. And thanks for all the replies!!
 
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simtech said:
That was a good webinar! Mike Busch claims cold weather starting is below freezing. So we rarely get that here and if we do Im not gonna be flying anyway. He also recommends monograde oil over multi unless you plan to have sub freezing starts. His recommendation is Aeroshell w100 with cam guard or Areoshell w100 plus. He breaks down why he is against synthetic blends due to lead and its ability to suspend particles and clean.

So.....after listening to him for almost 2 hours Im gonna go with the Aeroshell w100 plus and the bonus is I can buy it by the case locally.

To those who haven't listened to his webinar here it is http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001
check it out.. And thanks for all the replies!!
Click to expand...



Mike Busch is one smart cookie....if you wanna read more google Ed kollins of camguard, he used to be the head chemist for most of the oil companies at one time or another. If I remember right shell plus has $.10 per quart of additive that makes up the "plus" part. Camguard is great stuff..anti corrosion, shear additive for high loafing areas such as cam and lifter interface, seal conditioner and eliminates lead sludge build ups.....
 
Jimmy cooper said:
...... Personally, I use 15-50 year round , on the advice of two older excellent mechanics plus what I've read over the years. Never had a problem in over 45 years. I hope those from the northern states and Alaska will chime in here.
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Northeast Montana, I too run Aeroshell 15W50 year 'round.
 
Aeroshell 15W-50. No problems so far.
 
Here is a good write up from Ed at Camguard on why he steers clear of semi-synthetic aviation oils.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=109023&page=2

Seems in some of the threads some have been running it with good success, but they appear to be folks who fly a lot of hours.

I would think semi syn oil would run off the cam faster than straight 50w oil, promoting cam failure on infrequently flown engines.
 
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Aaronk25 said:
Here is a good write up from Ed at Camguard on why he steers clear of semi-synthetic aviation oils.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=109023&page=2

Seems in some of the threads some have been running it with good success, but they appear to be folks who fly a lot of hours.

I would think semi syn oil would run off the cam faster than straight 50w oil, promoting cam failure on infrequently flown engines.
Click to expand...

All oils will run off the cam. None of them have glue in them.


Dan
 
Dan Thomas said:
All oils will run off the cam. None of them have glue in them.


Dan
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Well....duh...but the heavier the weight, non-synthetic oils stay on days longer.

In fact on a io-360 after shut down it take 2 days for 1/4 quart to come back to sump and up to 7days for the 3/4 of a quart to return to the sump.

I've ran 15-50w semi-syn oil and after about 2 days it's all back in the sump.

Just pull the dipstick on 50w vs 15-50w and it clings to it much better.
 
Dan Thomas said:
Actually, the cylinder walls can get by with miniscule amounts of oil. It's those bearings and cam and lifter faces that really need it. Thick oil doesn't move easily, and sure doesn't suck easily through the oil pickup tube into the pump. You can start an engine and have some time before oil starts going where it should.

We used 15W50 year round in Alberta, and we didn't fly below -25°C (-32°F). We had a heated hangar, insulated cowling covers, and heaters for overnight cross-countries. I used to stick quarts of several different oils in the fridge freezer and show the students what it looked like when it was a few degrees below freezing. The 100 would barely pour. 80 was better but still slow. The 15W50 moved just fine.

Dan
Click to expand...

When the lower tier states of the lower 48 get as cold as Alberta, I'll run 15W50 too.
 
Anyone stop to think the oils of today far exceed the requirements that were written way back prior to having multi weight oils?

Way back when we were using the big radial engines we used D-120 (65weight) and the engines used starters with clutches to prevent damage during a hydraulic lock, so they wouldn't even crank when really cold.
So how did we get them started?
Heated oil tanks ? yep
Oil delution ? yep

Heavy weight oil when cold creates a lot of internal friction, it acts more like glue than oil. So we preheat. After the oil gets hot it flows and we are good to go.

The alternative is a lighter weight oil, but when they get hot they won't protect, so we end up with a multi weight oil simply because we need to get started.

The OP's engine has been run on W100, if he sees constant temps below freezing he should change to W80 of any brand name. they will all do the job.

my first advice still stands. If he is not having problems don't F##@ with it.
 
Dan Thomas said:
All oils will run off the cam. None of them have glue in them.


Dan
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That's why when I store an engine I dose the oil with a big load of Lucas Oil Treatment while still hot, and give it a run to coat everything.
 
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