Anyone had a G5 installed in

bnt83

bnt83

Final Approach
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something like this? This shock mount holds the gyros about 6 degrees from being perpendicular with the rest of the metal panel. I'm thinking about just laying a sheet over the AI hole that picks up the four existing fasteners and mounting it to that. Might have to trim out the shock mount immediately behind it a bit IDK. Can't cut the top half of the shock mount off so its gotta be in there.




Might have to shim it a bit
 
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There has been some issues Witt the G5s not working correctly, ya know. If you're OK with that is all I'm saying.
 
I think there is something in the installation manual that mentions shock mounts. I don't think it will work.

Flav
 
You will have to mount the G5 per the manual. Depends on if your panel is floating or rigid. You can't just fabricate something at random to mount it on, although I wouldn't rule it out before running it by Garmin.

By the way v.2.70 of the G5 software has resolved ALL issues related to incorrect attitude indications. You may install with no concerns.
 
At this point its a survey of the job and data.

A guy could try and make a shim to go between the G5 and the gyro panel but it would need to be pretty thick and the plastic overlay would need a giant hole cut into it to prevent sandwiching the overlay between the G5 and the floating panel which would basically attach the overlay to the floating panel and defeating the purpose of the shock mounts.

Says in Limitations 2.1 cannot be installed in a shock mounted panel, so not an option anyway.


Ryan F. said:
You can't just fabricate something at random to mount it on./QUOTE]
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That's basically what the OEM did to mount the TC gyro. There is a separate formed piece to offset the gyro by X degrees, rigidly attached to the fixed panel using four MS210470AD-4 rivets.

If the four shock mounts with brass posts attached with brass nuts that can support the entire gyro panel + two gyros + hoses, then there shouldn't be a problem taking the vacuum gyro out of it.

Adding a sheet that picks up the those four existing fasteners seems most logical. If lined up well with the original attitude indicator hole there should be clearance around the G5 and the floating panel which would be immediately behind it but not attached to it. Worse case is trim the floating panel hole a bit to increase clearance.

Since this would rigidly mount the G5 to the larger fixed panel it would not have the ~6 degree offset but that will be compensated for during calibration/setup and within installation manual specs. Also, since the G5 would not be floating, there should be no issues letting the plastic overlay extend under the G5 bezel so should not need to cut a giant hole in it.

It appears that electrical bonding of the G5 to the mounting ring is ensured by the guide pin on the top of it as there is no mention of bonding straps in the manual or even bonding check.
 
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Read the most recent Garmin install manual, as I believe I read that the shock mount prohibition has been removed.
 
bnt83 said:
That's basically what the OEM did to mount the TC gyro. There is a separate formed piece to offset the gyro by X degrees, rigidly attached to the fixed panel using four MS210470AD-4 rivets.

If the four shock mounts with brass posts attached with brass nuts that can support the entire gyro panel + two gyros + hoses, then there shouldn't be a problem taking the vacuum gyro out of it.
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Understood. However, at time of my installation there was a big to-do over exactly what kind of panel I had and approved mounting methods for installing the the G5. Perhaps what you want to do is possible in some fashion, however the G5 is not like a mechanical gyro, it has to be mounted in a very specific way.
 
There's a garmin guy on VAF, G3xpert, that can probably speak authoritatively on mounting the G5.

I don't know if he reads this forum.
 
I don't have a G5 yet and not planning on buying one this year but I'm gonna take a piece of clear plastic and make a template for this. With the G5 mounted in that new sheet, which would be securely fastened to the fixed panel, I doubt there would be any issues. It looks like it would meet all the minimum requirements of the installation manual. Since that mod would not be covered under the STC instructions it may or may not require a separate approval. I'm sure the FSDO would be happy to provide an opinion.

In one manual they say the installation ring isn't included with the G5 kit so maybe I'll buy the $50 mounting kit.
 
Here is a near scale reference I drew for kicks to get an idea how much larger the bezel is. Typically instruments in small aircraft are mounted from behind the panel and the G5 is mounted from the front, there could be interference caused by the larger bezel in some airplanes.

 
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bnt83 said:
With the G5 mounted in that new sheet, which would be securely fastened to the fixed panel, I doubt there would be any issues. It looks like it would meet all the minimum requirements of the installation manual.
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Maybe, maybe not. The issue isn't approval, it's whether or not the G5 will actually work reliably mounted to that type of material. Having just been through a G5 install and part of a user group working through vibration and WAAS signal issues leading to incorrect attitude indications, I can tell you that all aspects of the precise method of installation are quite important to this unit working properly. Strongly suggest you talk to Garmin to get their take on any ideas of this sort before undertaking them.
 
Ryan F. said:
Maybe, maybe not. The issue isn't approval, it's whether or not the G5 will actually work reliably mounted to that type of material. Having just been through a G5 install and part of a user group working through vibration and WAAS signal issues leading to incorrect attitude indications, I can tell you that all aspects of the precise method of installation are quite important to this unit working properly. Strongly suggest you talk to Garmin to get their take on any ideas of this sort before undertaking them.
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I'm not understanding your issue. The install manual says the instrument panel must be 0.040 thick aluminum minimum, what the difference if that is an added piece bolted or riveted to the original metal panel that's even thicker? Its not gonna be flimsy pop can like the panels they were probably having issues with.

Its gonna get WAAS from a GTN650 RS232 so that won't be a problem.
 
If it was that critical, the STCed FAA approved installation instructions would be a little more in depth like using a spring scale and pulling on the area and measuring deflection and flexibility. The .040 minimum requirement should cover that.

When it comes right down to it, no one knows if it will work till its tried, hence the setup procedure and engine run-up and vibration test requirements.

That brings up a question actually, if it passes the vibration test at the initial installation does that mean it will still operate satisfactorily with an engine that isn't? If a spark plug or mag fails will that fail the G5 from different vibration pattern?

I'm thinking all these things will be covered by the time I buy ;-)

Since Dynon has had these out there for several years I'm guessing they have already heard it all.
 
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bnt83 said:
I'm not understanding your issue. The install manual says the instrument panel must be 0.040 thick aluminum minimum, what the difference if that is an added piece bolted or riveted to the original metal panel that's even thicker? Its not gonna be flimsy pop can like the panels they were probably having issues with.

Its gonna get WAAS from a GTN650 RS232 so that won't be a problem.
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I may have misunderstood you - I thought you were talking about mounting it on plastic, or aluminum + plastic. I would imagine that a square of aluminum bolted into place probably wouldn't be a problem.
 
Ryan F. said:
I may have misunderstood you - I thought you were talking about mounting it on plastic, or aluminum + plastic. I would imagine that a square of aluminum bolted into place probably wouldn't be a problem.
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I'll try it with the plastic overlay under it to see what happens. Then its in the perfect spot to draw a line on the plastic around the bezel to cut it out.
 
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