AD 2020-24-05 from Piper

brien23

brien23

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Brien
Just in time for Christmas A/D 2020-24-05 wing spar inspection, get your kit for Christmas now avoid the rush.
 
Any A&Ps know if this is a viable method for most of us?

(iv) Use a lighted borescope capable of 10X or higher power magnification display through existing access points (e.g., wing root fairing, landing gear panels, internal lightening holes, or other access points depending on model).
 
That's not the "dreaded one". See post #4.
 
I just had SB1006 done and fogged the wings with corrosion X at that time. Looks like at the next annual we will be using a borescope.
 
I think I got an early Xmas present. After reading the AD my model number is not included (PA28-181) nor is my serial number. Yaaaay! (I think):dunno:
 
Archer Jack said:
I think I got an early Xmas present. After reading the AD my model number is not included (PA28-181) nor is my serial number. Yaaaay! (I think):dunno:
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That is correct(assuming I am reading the AD correctly). In any case, I already have that inspection plate
 
181 is not included

2a8ab037b4557411131a9d5debb90ee5.jpg
 
Are any of the semi-taper wings included?
 
GRG55 said:
Are any of the semi-taper wings included?
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Doesn't look like it. I believe they all have the access panel factory installed that allows access for the inspection.
 
So I looked at my kit and decided to locate where it goes under the wing. The instructions are pretty much non-existent and ambiguous. 5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16") and second, you would have to have x-ray vision in order to measure from the spar and the rib. Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row of rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets? And how exactly to install it?

I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing it one way and read another blog with pictures with another guy installing it another way. The video has the inspection cover over the under wing surface, the blog has it flush with the under wing surface. I would prefer the flush method but which one is supposed to be correct, or is either way fine?

I'm all for complying with the AD but come on FAA, a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.


https://zookaviation.com/blog/2019/02/05/piper-pa-28-32-main-wing-spar-corrosion/

Clecos.jpg
 
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Timbeck2 said:
So I looked at my kit and decided to locate where it goes under the wing. The instructions are pretty much non-existent and ambiguous. 5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16") and second, you would have to have x-ray vision in order to measure from the spar and the rib. Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row or rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets? And how exactly to install it?

I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing it one way and read another blog with pictures with another guy installing it another way. One has the inspection cover over the under wing surface, the other has it flush with the under wing surface. I would prefer the flush method but which one is supposed to be correct?

I'm all for complying with the AD but come on FAA, a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.


https://zookaviation.com/blog/2019/02/05/piper-pa-28-32-main-wing-spar-corrosion/

Clecos.jpg
Click to expand...

remember their slogan...”we’re not happy until you’re not happy.”
 
Timbeck2 said:
So I looked at my kit and decided to locate where it goes under the wing. The instructions are pretty much non-existent and ambiguous. 5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16") and second, you would have to have x-ray vision in order to measure from the spar and the rib. Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row of rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets? And how exactly to install it?

I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing it one way and read another blog with pictures with another guy installing it another way. The video has the inspection cover over the under wing surface, the blog has it flush with the under wing surface. I would prefer the flush method but which one is supposed to be correct, or is either way fine?

I'm all for complying with the AD but come on FAA, a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.
Click to expand...

I have not had to install one so I can't speak from personal experience, but I suspect the exact location isn't critical enough to warrant the precision you're seeking. The taper wing airplanes have the access panel you're looking to install, perhaps locate one of those airplanes to take measurements and copy how Piper installed them on those wings?
 
Timbeck2 said:
5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16")
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FYI: No test. Most technical drawing are in decimal dimensions and it's usually easier to use measuring scales in 10ths/100ths vs converting to fractional dimensions. You can pick up a 6" scale in 10ths/100ths for about $6 in most places.
Timbeck2 said:
Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row of rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets?
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Because the data was designed and written by an engineer instead of a mechanic. :eek:
Timbeck2 said:
And how exactly to install it? which one is supposed to be correct, or is either way fine?
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Without seeing the instructions can't specifically comment. But in my experience, if the panel has a rolled edge it usually indicates it is externally mounted and if the panel has a straight edge it is flush mounted. Looking at the pics/vid above it appears the panel edges are rolled so I would go with the video install method. However, if the instructions don't specify which way and all the sheetmetal edge distances are maintained it doesn't mean the blog version is technically wrong either. If I went the flush route I would have fabricated a new panel with straight edges so that it would fit better.
Timbeck2 said:
a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.
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FWIW: From my experience those instructions are typical of OEM install data in general. At least you got some instructions instead of just a box of parts and a pick list. Those type kits are always a load of fun to figure out.;)
 
What? You don’t have a machinist scale marked in tenths? I thought everybody has at least one of those.
 
Well, probably the scariest thing for me to do was to drill into my wing and make a hole for the access panels but I did it. It looks like the bottom picture I posted above with the caveat that on advice of my A&P, I didn't dimple the holes for flush rivets and installed universal because dimpling stretches the aluminum and increases the risk of cracking. I mounted the access panels flush and they look awesome if I say so myself. My A&P mentor is happy with my work and so am I. My spar looks like it did when it left the factory in October 1969. But I'm lucky as my plane never left the SW so its been in a dry climate all it's life.
 
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Roland Donnell said:
Any link to in stock availability?
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A quick look shows that its going to be hard to find for a while. Sky Geek is 100-110 days before availability and the price has increased about $100 since I bought mine almost two years ago. The good news is that you have 100 hours before you have to install the panel. The not so good news is it states, within 100 hours OR the next inspection. So if your annual is due soon...
 
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You may want to check out a post from Avid Flyer on Piper Forum .

He made up kits as an Owner Produced Part and sells for about $60 .

Thats for 2 sides.

Someone I know has ordered and I hope to see it soon.
 
Magman said:
He made up kits as an Owner Produced Part and sells for about $60 .
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FYI: you can not sell owner produced parts. There are routes to share or sell data but the owner has to be involved in 1 of 5 ways. And simply buying the produced parts from someone else is not one of them.
 
Magman said:
You may want to check out a post from Avid Flyer on Piper Forum .

He made up kits as an Owner Produced Part and sells for about $60 .

Thats for 2 sides.

Someone I know has ordered and I hope to see it soon.
Click to expand...

Bell206 said:
FYI: you can not sell owner produced parts. There are routes to share or sell data but the owner has to be involved in 1 of 5 ways. And simply buying the produced parts from someone else is not one of them.
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Yes, a common method is seller sends the detailed specification to buyer for review and sign as the specification/directions for manufacture.
 
I would say it’s not sold as an owner produced part but rather as the basis for one.

The aluminum is part to shape but holes need to be debarred and nut plates must

be riveted in place .

The Owner would direct the Tech to assemble as an Owner Produced Part.
 
Magman said:
The Owner would direct the Tech to assemble as an Owner Produced Part.
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Directing the mechanic to assemble still doesn't make it an owner produced part. The owner must be involved in the manufacture of the part.

And given one will be signing off an AD via an SB what design data were these "owner" parts manufactured from?

PS: you really need to find a neighborhood kid to come fix the formatting on your posts. Seriously.;)
 
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