brien23
Cleared for Takeoff
Just in time for Christmas A/D 2020-24-05 wing spar inspection, get your kit for Christmas now avoid the rush.
For those interested, it is the dreaded "wing spar" inspection AD. Applicable to PA-28s, 140, 150, 160, 180, 235, 32-260, 32-300
https://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_...14d21fb6862586290049fc9f/$FILE/2020-24-05.pdf
I think I got an early Xmas present. After reading the AD my model number is not included (PA28-181) nor is my serial number. Yaaaay! (I think)
Are any of the semi-taper wings included?
So I looked at my kit and decided to locate where it goes under the wing. The instructions are pretty much non-existent and ambiguous. 5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16") and second, you would have to have x-ray vision in order to measure from the spar and the rib. Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row or rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets? And how exactly to install it?
I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing it one way and read another blog with pictures with another guy installing it another way. One has the inspection cover over the under wing surface, the other has it flush with the under wing surface. I would prefer the flush method but which one is supposed to be correct?
I'm all for complying with the AD but come on FAA, a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.
https://zookaviation.com/blog/2019/02/05/piper-pa-28-32-main-wing-spar-corrosion/
So I looked at my kit and decided to locate where it goes under the wing. The instructions are pretty much non-existent and ambiguous. 5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16") and second, you would have to have x-ray vision in order to measure from the spar and the rib. Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row of rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets? And how exactly to install it?
I watched a YouTube video of a guy installing it one way and read another blog with pictures with another guy installing it another way. The video has the inspection cover over the under wing surface, the blog has it flush with the under wing surface. I would prefer the flush method but which one is supposed to be correct, or is either way fine?
I'm all for complying with the AD but come on FAA, a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.
FYI: No test. Most technical drawing are in decimal dimensions and it's usually easier to use measuring scales in 10ths/100ths vs converting to fractional dimensions. You can pick up a 6" scale in 10ths/100ths for about $6 in most places.5.7 inches from the spar, 4.7 inches from the rib? First of all, its like an FAA test, one has to extrapolate where .7" would be (I guessed 11/16")
Because the data was designed and written by an engineer instead of a mechanic.Why couldn't they just tell the A&P to measure X inches from this row of rivets, and X inches from the other row of rivets?
Without seeing the instructions can't specifically comment. But in my experience, if the panel has a rolled edge it usually indicates it is externally mounted and if the panel has a straight edge it is flush mounted. Looking at the pics/vid above it appears the panel edges are rolled so I would go with the video install method. However, if the instructions don't specify which way and all the sheetmetal edge distances are maintained it doesn't mean the blog version is technically wrong either. If I went the flush route I would have fabricated a new panel with straight edges so that it would fit better.And how exactly to install it? which one is supposed to be correct, or is either way fine?
FWIW: From my experience those instructions are typical of OEM install data in general. At least you got some instructions instead of just a box of parts and a pick list. Those type kits are always a load of fun to figure out.a little help would be nice instead of the bullchit "instructions." Its as if they are setting us up to fail.
Any link to in stock availability?
FYI: you can not sell owner produced parts. There are routes to share or sell data but the owner has to be involved in 1 of 5 ways. And simply buying the produced parts from someone else is not one of them.He made up kits as an Owner Produced Part and sells for about $60 .
You may want to check out a post from Avid Flyer on Piper Forum .
He made up kits as an Owner Produced Part and sells for about $60 .
Thats for 2 sides.
Someone I know has ordered and I hope to see it soon.
FYI: you can not sell owner produced parts. There are routes to share or sell data but the owner has to be involved in 1 of 5 ways. And simply buying the produced parts from someone else is not one of them.
Directing the mechanic to assemble still doesn't make it an owner produced part. The owner must be involved in the manufacture of the part.The Owner would direct the Tech to assemble as an Owner Produced Part.