aah, did a grease job on my truck today...

vman

vman

Pre-takeoff checklist
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vman
ended up with a combo of zerks & sealed, so went after it needle fitting & normal...

one zerk that was plugged, popped out when i tried to pull off the grease gun fitting..

nothing quite like dealin with basics :D
 
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So, this truck built before the mid-90’s? Doesn’t seem like anything comes equipped with grease-able fittings anymore.


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SoonerAviator said:
So, this truck built before the mid-90’s? Doesn’t seem like anything comes equipped with grease-able fittings anymore.


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You can easily wear out a few sets of ball joints in the lifetime of a modern truck. And aftermarket replacements are almost always equipped to be greased.
 
Gotcha, was just curious if this was OEM we were talking about. I prefer Moog suspension components when replacing most OE parts.


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SoonerAviator said:
So, this truck built before the mid-90’s? Doesn’t seem like anything comes equipped with grease-able fittings anymore.
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My 2005 GMC has 11 grease fittings, if I remember all of them.

My 1947 Chevy truck had many grease fittings all over..... I always knew when it was ready for grease as it would start squeaking while going down the road.
 
Yo guys need to spend an entire shift with a grease gun and an L-1011. Ah, those were the days.
 
Zeldman said:
My 2005 GMC has 11 grease fittings, if I remember all of them.

My 1947 Chevy truck had many grease fittings all over..... I always knew when it was ready for grease as it would start squeaking while going down the road.
Click to expand...

Right, I’m just saying many of the current generation of vehicles (cars/light duty trucks) come from the factory with non-serviceable ball joints and other pivot points which can only be replaced as opposed to greased.


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SoonerAviator said:
Right, I’m just saying many of the current generation of vehicles (cars/light duty trucks) come from the factory with non-serviceable ball joints and other pivot points which can only be replaced as opposed to greased.
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Yep. If it isn't already here then soon there won't be drain plugs. To change the oil it will have to be sucked up out the dipstick tube. And according to my dealer buddy, soon there won't even be a dipstick, requiring a person to go to the dealer just to get the oil level checked. (and he does not like that idea)
 
Zeldman said:
Yep. If it isn't already here then soon there won't be drain plugs. To change the oil it will have to be sucked up out the dipstick tube. And according to my dealer buddy, soon there won't even be a dipstick, requiring a person to go to the dealer just to get the oil level checked. (and he does not like that idea)
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Re drain plugs: That’s actually not a bad thing. I use a pump via the dipstick tube to get the oil out of my 351w in the boat. It’s a pain to get to the drain plug in the tight bilge, and even tougher to avoid making a giant mess with dirty oil draining out since there’s no way to fit a drain pan into the bilge. The siphon pump works remarkably well and requires very little cleanup.


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SoonerAviator said:
Re drain plugs: That’s actually not a bad thing. I use a pump via the dipstick tube to get the oil out of my 351w in the boat. It’s a pain to get to the drain plug in the tight bilge, and even tougher to avoid making a giant mess with dirty oil draining out since there’s no way to fit a drain pan into the bilge. The siphon pump works remarkably well and requires very little cleanup.
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Once there is a decent after market home oil change pump it probably will go pretty good. Right now on my diesel I have notched the skid plate so the oil won't hit it as it comes out of the pan. Then I have to pour 2 1/2 gallons of used oil back into the empty oil containers. The possibility of making a mess is pretty good.

But once the dip stick is gone just checking the oil level will be a dealer only item. That is the part I really don't agree with. My dealer buddy tells me that the only way to check the oil will be to suck all the oil out, determine how much oil is needed, add that amount and replace into the engine. And only be able to charge for the amount of oil that is added.
 
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/nodipstick/
lol
But it gets even more complicated: some manufacturers require on some models, including Toyota and Volkswagen, that a proprietary scan tool be used to enable opening specific passageways in the transmission before checking fluid level.
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https://wiygul.com/support/1911/the-disappearing-dipstick/

a quick search shows 2010
https://waynestransmissions.com/fluid-level-checks-on-automatic-transmissions-without-dipsticks/
Some vehicles in this category actually have a special tool that is used like a dipstick to check the fluid level but then is removed. Year 2005 and up Chrysler models with a NAG-1 transmission are an example.

<snip>
here’s an example of what is involved to check the fluid level for a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier with a 4T40-E automatic transaxle:

  • fluid temp must be at 104 degrees F. when checking
  • engine must be running with transaxle in Park
  • an oil pan should be placed under the removal plug area; then remove plug
  • if fluid doesn’t come out when plug is removed, add fluid until it starts to come out; then stop adding
  • allow level to stabilize even with the bottom of the check plug hole
  • replace plug when fluid no longer comes out of check plug hole
  • tighten plug to the correct torque specification
Click to expand...

https://jalopnik.com/5522543/why-the-dipstick-is-dying
 
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