A&Ps, AI's and other aircraft mechanics

Tom-D said:
I guess you missed the subject change in post 58..please try to keep up.

Or is it you don't know the difference between a bucking bad and rivet set.
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Try ordering a "bucking bad"! :oops:
 
I'll add some more if you care to hear it.

The ATS rivet gun kit should work OK. Practice, find a setting on the regulator for #3 and #4 rivets and mark it. That will be your starting setting.

Tungsten bucking bars are great, but expensive. I have two that are my go to bars and 25 others that are used if necessary. Would like a couple more different shapes/sizes. The ATS kit bars will work for now.

Soft rivits are non-stuctural. Work good for installing nutplates in hard to access areas. Easy to set.

Buy or make a set of rivet gauges. It will help to get your bucked head to spec until you can do it by eye.

The "AVERY" hand squeezer would be the one to get if you want the best. Now sold by Cleveland Aircraft Tools. Uses standard "C" squeezer yokes. More than the cheap stuff, but a fantastic tool. Watch on VANS AIRFORCE for a used one or put up a WTB post on the same.

Most small dents can be removed with a piece of lead and a flush rivet set. Leave the bondo out if at all possible.

Read: https://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm

Do not buy junk. Stay out of Harbor Freight except for dustpans and disposable die grinders. Maybe a few others thing, but not much.

Find a mentor and suck up the knowledge like a sponge.

Send me your address and I will send a free APEX bit. You will be a believer.

Can add more if interested.

GM
RV8, Cessna 180, PA12, N35 Bonanza, Champ project
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
depends on the application.....mostly soft. The rivet head will tell ya what type they are.... AC 43.13 1B has a nice section on everything you'd ever want to know bout rivets. see Chapter 4....table 4-8.
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I'll put that on my books and publications list.
 
JAWS said:
Try ordering a "bucking bad"! :oops:
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"Bucking Bad" is the aircraft mechanic version of "Breaking Bad". It's the story of a crusty old A&P mechanic who falls into the drug manufacturing trade with a punk azz young RJ pilot.
 
Timbeck2:
I was given "How to do Aircraft Sheet Metal Work" by Carl Norcross & James D. Quinn by the best rivet pounder I've ever known and it was always my go to book.
 
Just an update because I'm sure there were some who were worried about me and my progress. I've amassed several sheet metal tools since I started this thread thanks to people here's advice. One thing in particular that I really like is the palm pro air drill from ATS with variable speed trigger and Jacob's chuck. That thing is nice and quiet and the variable speed actually works compared to the DeWalt I was using before. The ATS 3X rivet gun is great as well although the learning curve (as warned) was pretty steep in getting it dialed in or rather back for #3 rivets. Not a shill for ATS as I think they occasionally have a "bait and wait*" website that I'm not too happy about, but overall I'm pleased.


*they claim a tool or item is in stock but several were backordered and three items I had to wait 4 days shy of a month to receive.
 
I just picked up a nice scope. Very good resolution, hooks to you lap top or I phone. Takes pictures or you can use it as a video camera. I really like it. Going to put it through its paces next weekend after I change out my E-Z Heating pad.

edit: $350 at Aircraft Spruce
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My buddy Ryan has that one but I think he paid less for it on Amazon. Too late for you but its a great scope with good resolution.
 
Timbeck2 said:
My buddy Ryan has that one but I think he paid less for it on Amazon. Too late for you but its a great scope with good resolution.
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Wondering if he has the VA-400 looks the same but not as many features, it goes for $200. The VA-800 goes for $350.
 
Don't forget about electrical tools. A decent multi meter, set of stripmasters, a good pair of crimpers for butt splices, a butane soldering kit, flush cut cutters for ty-wraps. I just ordered the MG-1400 cutters, specifically for cutting ty-wraps without nicking wires.

One of my often used electrical tools is a little box for testing headsets. It is not as fancy as Jim's (which I intend on building one day), but it works and makes headset repair very easy and convenient.
 
Timbeck2 said:
Just an update because I'm sure there were some who were worried about me and my progress. I've amassed several sheet metal tools since I started this thread thanks to people here's advice. One thing in particular that I really like is the palm pro air drill from ATS with variable speed trigger and Jacob's chuck. That thing is nice and quiet and the variable speed actually works compared to the DeWalt I was using before. The ATS 3X rivet gun is great as well although the learning curve (as warned) was pretty steep in getting it dialed in or rather back for #3 rivets. Not a shill for ATS as I think they occasionally have a "bait and wait*" website that I'm not too happy about, but overall I'm pleased.


*they claim a tool or item is in stock but several were backordered and three items I had to wait 4 days shy of a month to receive.
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Well, Tim,

Now you are on course to learn how to use them properly. There are proper techniques to using them properly. Drilling out old rivets and mashing new ones are a case in point and until you learn best practices be prepared to drill out your screw-ups and learn the proper cuss words. BTDT a hundred times over. Like getting to Carnagee Hall you gotta practice, practice, practice.
 
JAWS said:
Don't forget about electrical tools. A decent multi meter, set of stripmasters, a good pair of crimpers for butt splices, a butane soldering kit, flush cut cutters for ty-wraps. I just ordered the MG-1400 cutters, specifically for cutting ty-wraps without nicking wires.

One of my often used electrical tools is a little box for testing headsets. It is not as fancy as Jim's (which I intend on building one day), but it works and makes headset repair very easy and convenient.
Click to expand...

decent multi meter - got it
strippers - two types both good ones
crimpers - got the nice ratcheting type
butane soldering kit - not yet but I have the plug in type. Having seen the butane version with the guard used for shrink wrap, it is high on the list of things to get.
flush cutters - went overboard and bought Snap On - I was in the truck and needed to buy something.
 
Norman said:
Well, Tim,

Now you are on course to learn how to use them properly. There are proper techniques to using them properly. Drilling out old rivets and mashing new ones are a case in point and until you learn best practices be prepared to drill out your screw-ups and learn the proper cuss words. BTDT a hundred times over. Like getting to Carnagee Hall you gotta practice, practice, practice.
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My first project was a spark plug tray. I decided to get all fancy and instead of square, build an A frame type with angles and such. Big mistake, lots of cussing and nowhere to put a bucking bar squarely on half of the rivets. I had to drill out several rivets and install an oversize one but it still looks like crap. I'll keep it around as a visual reminder of what not to do.
 
If you're going to work on light single and twins, 1/4 inch ratchet and sockets, normal and deep will work most of the time.
Screw drivers, phillips and slots, various sizes and lengths. safety pliers, needle nose, open end wrenches, and box end, what I call 30 degree 60 degree open ends wrenches. small hammer, soft head hammer. Pair of channel lock pliers, reg size and large size. Deep socket for Spark Plug and large 1/2" breaker bar.
 
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