A&P student tool deals?

PilotMedic865

PilotMedic865

Filing Flight Plan
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FlyBoy913
So, since I have the time with work and some extra GI bill money to spend I’m looking at starting A&P school in September to supplement my pilot’s license. I was given a mandatory tool list and was seeing if anyone had any recommendations on good student tool deals? I know all the big truck brands have some student deals, but being a craftsman guy my whole life am not sure which is the better option for the price.


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Not able to help you with packages that way but I might suggest the military discount at Autozone since they have tools. If you have to buy tools individually, maybe that could save you some cash. Just an idea. Maybe even Harbor Freight tools might save some money. Good luck!

David
 
Also, remember that "Craftsman" is now really Stanley/Black&Decker . No judgement.. just saying that the Craftsman tools we bought years ago may not have a contemporary equivalent. For my admittedly cheap tool dollar, Gear Wrench has been a consistent winner in the hand-tool world, and the Home Depot brand Ridgid line of lithium power tools has been great w/ their lifetime warranty INCLUDING the batteries. I had to avail myself of that warranty once for a drill, and they replaced it, no questions asked, with a newer model w/ a brushless motor. Yes, I prefer my Dewalt and Porter Cable gear by a wide margin, and the couple Makita things I've got by a smaller margin, but I have NO serious complaints about the Ridgid stuff... and I like to complain.
 
MuseChaser said:
Also, remember that "Craftsman" is now really Stanley/Black&Decker . No judgement.. just saying that the Craftsman tools we bought years ago may not have a contemporary equivalent. For my admittedly cheap tool dollar, Gear Wrench has been a consistent winner in the hand-tool world, and the Home Depot brand Ridgid line of lithium power tools has been great w/ their lifetime warranty INCLUDING the batteries. I had to avail myself of that warranty once for a drill, and they replaced it, no questions asked, with a newer model w/ a brushless motor. Yes, I prefer my Dewalt and Porter Cable gear by a wide margin, and the couple Makita things I've got by a smaller margin, but I have NO serious complaints about the Ridgid stuff... and I like to complain.
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Yeah. We use Snap On in the Air Force and they are good, but not a price tag a broke A&P student can afford at this moment.


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Check with the school. My local community college has an agreement with Snap-On for 50% off.

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been seeing a lot of discussion on caterpillar branded tools the same as snap on? same quality for a lot better price, but done auto-mechanics for 30 years, and old craftsman was great, vintage Bonney tools that later branded as NAPA, Indestro-Select, Gear Wrench is awesome today, you may find older Falcon or S&K, and of course MAC, Cornwell, and I am not a fan of MATCO, but there are plenty of good old tools, & some fit your hand better than others.
 
Having some cheap tools is good too. Never know when you’ll need to modify something to fit in a place no tool maker had thought of... I have a small collection of home made tools that are very application specific. You don’t want a box of nothing but tool truck merchandise when those times come.
 
Original old Craftsman stuff was great and I see the hand tools in pawn shops from time to time. No need to buy new, especially with the lifetime warranty.
 
I think Gearwrench is a great brand for you to start with. It can be fairly cheap and they do have a warranty program. There are things that Snap on, matco and the likes just cant be beat with though, specifically ratchets, sockets and wrenches. As an A&P, the tools you work with everyday matter, so keep that in mind. But starting out, go with gearwrench.
 
I'm embarking on this now, albeit without the benefit of GI Bill money. Any chance you can share their list of tools? I've been shoppy lately.

I troll craigslist every so often looking for "estate toolboxes", but there seems to be a brisk trade in used tools from the name brands, so prices are ridiculous and not enough savings over new to deal with.

If you're not doing it as a career, the old adage "buy your first X at harbor freight, then when you break it, replace it with [snap on, mac, matco... etc]" might apply -- it always seemed pretty logical to me. :D
 
schmookeeg said:
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If you're not doing it as a career, the old adage "buy your first X at harbor freight, then when you break it, replace it with [snap on, mac, matco... etc]" might apply -- it always seemed pretty logical to me. :D
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Not bad advice, except my rule is....if the tool will break or become damaged before whatever expensive part or assembly you're using it on will break or become damaged, Harbor Freight stuff is fine. When the converse is true, get a good quality tool the first time. Torque wrenches are one area where you should avoid Harbor Freight like tha plague. Trust me.... I didn't, and should have.
 
The most of my tools are a 3/8"th socket set. a 1/4" socket set, with a couple ratchets for each, one 1/2" breaker bar, and the adaptors for each, combination wrench set 1/4' to 1-1/4. craftman, dropped end box wrench set. 1/4"-3/4". couple pry bars, screw driver set, chisel, ball peen Hamer, a 2 pound sledge, compression gauge, time rite, bendix "P" lead adaptors, multimeter, amp meter. Dewalt hand drill (18v battery) piston ring compressor, torque wrench 1/4" and a 3/8th"
Plus a few other things. most bought as I needed them. some from pawn shops, even some from garage sales.
I like the new tools from Lowes.
 
schmookeeg said:
I'm embarking on this now, albeit without the benefit of GI Bill money. Any chance you can share their list of tools? I've been shoppy lately.

I troll craigslist every so often looking for "estate toolboxes", but there seems to be a brisk trade in used tools from the name brands, so prices are ridiculous and not enough savings over new to deal with.

If you're not doing it as a career, the old adage "buy your first X at harbor freight, then when you break it, replace it with [snap on, mac, matco... etc]" might apply -- it always seemed pretty logical to me. :D
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This is the list they gave my in my admissions packet

23641b92daf0cdf5f5a2302b611773bb.jpg





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You probably wont use half that list.

I work out of an armstrong GMTK set, has a nice rolling pelican case. The quality is top notch. You can buy them on ebay for ~$1500. Some stuff in there you will not need.

This set looks interesting. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273849539535

My company now offers new hires new Sonic rolling boxes and tool kits. I really like some of the stuff in them, the knipex pliers and cutters are really nice.
 
A couple things I’d add to your list.

Get a good pair of safety wire pliers—the 9" $100 ones, not the cheap 6" ones.
You should have a couple of straight picks along with the ones that come in the set.
I use a ratcheting screwdriver made by Lutz all the time.
Get a set of stubby ratcheting combination wrenches from Gearwrench. Very handy for tight places.
If you ever work on Cessnas you will appreciate having a good electric screwdriver—I like my Black and Decker pistol grip.
Fuel stains don’t show up well with LED lights. You should have a halogen bulb flashlight for inspections. The cheap LED ones from Harbor Freight are great for working inside or on the engine.
A cheap pair of scissors from the dollar store comes in handy as does a good razor knife.
A small magnet on a stick can be useful for picking up dropped screws and nuts.
A good sharpie marker and a pen come in handy as well.
Scotch-brite and fine sandpaper.
Green tape for marking things that you need to remember come back to. e.g bolts not tightened, things you need your instructor to look at.

I have worked with lots of guys who spend more time looking for their tools than actually working. I keep mine in an electricians toolbag. I put them back in the bag after using them and never have to worry about where they are. I also like to wear an apron to keep my tools in.
 
Couple thoughts on specific tools...

Safety wire pliers...Milbar, 25W's...they are bidirectional and have the jaw inserts that will capture the cut pieces most of the time. There will be times that you need to twist different directions.

Diagonals...Spend the bucks on cushion throat ones. Chasing the cut end of a piece of wire that drops into the bottoms of an airplane is no fun and potentially way more costly to you than the tool price. Here's a pair of SO numbers: 388ACF 388ACFT

Combination square.... Buy the blades and the heads from Starrett.... 11H-12-16R would be a good starting point. The 16R blade has tenths and hundredths, and is much more practical for layout work. You can later add a centering head or protractor head if the need arises. You can also go to longer blades if you need and everything will work together.

DMM...for the most part I'd recommend a Fluke, but there are a few other brands that come close in quality and longevity. I'd also suggest that you add a decent analog meter too. I use an analog for lots of very quick checks, where I am not concerned about exact numbers, just that they are in the area of what they need to be. They are also much quicker when you are ringing out wires or harnesses. Unless you are looking for specific resistances, you can ring out a harness many times faster with an analog meter than a DVM, as you don't have to wait for the display to settle, or to get a tone, get the needle deflection past half scale and you are on to the next wire.

Steel rules...I got laughed at when I went to work in the plant for bringing in a 24" rule....guess what was one of the most borrowed tools in our department....I'd bring in a 12 and a 24 if you have to space to compliment the 6" they require.

When you look at the cost of some of these tools, keep this in mind....If you take care of these well, they will last your lifetime and that of your kids too. Dropping a couple of hundred bucks on the high quality specialty tools now, means that the cost over your work life is very small and you will most likely never need to replace them or even upgrade them.
 
Not an aircraft mechanic, but I've done a fair amount of wrenching on racecars and motorcycles. I've found a small camera to come in handy. Granted, your cell phone can do the job, but mine gets full of personal and family snapshots. Grabbing a camera to pop a few quick photos of how a wire harness is routed before I unfasten it, or how some assembly goes together, has proven to be very helpful.

Also a few muffin tins to hold fasteners and other small parts, along with some masking tape and a sharpie to label them.
 
I haven't managed to break any of the store-branded "Kobalt" tools at Lowe's yet. I think they have a lifetime guarantee, and I know they give a 10 percent veteran's discount. If you register with "My Lowe's," they code the veteran's discount into the loyalty card, automatically apply it to both in-person and online orders, and throw in free shipping on online orders.

Rich
 
Counterpoint:

Though many may disagree with the logic, here goes-
When an A&P w/IA I know interviews a potential new hire, he asks to see the new guy's toolbox.
If he sees Harbor Freight stuff or Craftsman, he will not hire him/her. "They're not serious"
He says it shows a level of professionalism to have professional tools.

I'm definitely not a fan of buying cheap to replace later with higher quality. Why buy the same tools twice?
Because I'm a cheap-skate, if I'm going to spend money, I want to spend it only once. Accumulate the good stuff as you are able.
 
Tom-D said:
Buy what you need as you go. No need to buy the expensive stuff.
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I agree with Tom. I think the idea that every new mechanic needs to get a Snap-On account is fading as the once great brands seem to have lost their greatness to some extent.

When I started working on cars about 20 years ago I bought a lot of cheaper brand tools - Stanley, Companion (the "budget" version of Craftsman) and Harbor Freight. One of my friends said he just didn't get it, because I'd be using tools for life and they'd fail me well before, then I'd be buying a second set. 20 years in I still am using a good number of those same tools and they work well. Some of the cheaper tools I have have shocked me with how well they've lasted, like a "Chicago Electric" reciprocating saw and electric impact gun that I've owned for about 15 years.

Generally things like sockets, ratchets, box/open end wrenches, and extensions, anyone can make those pretty well. Some of the other more precise hand tools there, including (oddly) screwdrivers, I would spend money on good ones although with any of the precision hand tools, including safety wire pliers. The Snap On screwdrivers I've used are noticeably way, way better than cheaper ones. I also buy a lot of Milwaukee impact drill bits for Phillips, and for power tools my go-to is DeWalt. My toolbox is Harbor Freight and I'm very happy with it.

However if I could get a 50% discount from SnapOn, I would absolutely do that.
 
Lowe's has a 10% military discount. IIRC, snap on or Mac make their Kobalt brand tools. They, as the Craftsman brand they carry are lifetime warranted

As for the AP/AI that wouldn't hire the guys with Craftsman or Harbor Freight tools... My answer is that it is a poor craftsman who blames his tools

Do what you can. If that's Harbor Freight, so be it.

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CharlieD3 said:
As for the AP/AI that wouldn't hire the guys with Craftsman or Harbor Freight tools... My answer is that it is a poor craftsman who blames his tools

Do what you can. If that's Harbor Freight, so be it.
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A couple months ago a guy bought some parts off of my parts Mustang. He worked for a Chevy dealer as a mechanic and had all Harbor Freight.
 
CharlieD3 said:
Lowe's has a 10% military discount. IIRC, snap on or Mac make their Kobalt brand tools. They, as the Craftsman brand they carry are lifetime warranted

As for the AP/AI that wouldn't hire the guys with Craftsman or Harbor Freight tools... My answer is that it is a poor craftsman who blames his tools

Do what you can. If that's Harbor Freight, so be it.

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A good soldier shoots with any gun.

Rich
 
I am a frequent shopper at Harbor Freight. Their mechanic's tool boxes are perhaps their best value for money. Stay away from any electric tools there. Their hand tools are junk but I buy what I need so I don't feel bad when I grind them down to fit some specific application that I would hate to ruin a "good" tool. The big advantage of the high priced professional tools are they will fit in places the junk brands are too chunky to fit. I have about half a dozen of the HF multimeters scattered around to mostly check battery voltage but my go to meter is a Fluke for wiring work. Digital Snap On torque wrench is an investment I am happy I made. Quality safety wire twist pliers are another place not to scrimp. I second the need for a decent digital camera--I take pictures of everything before I start messing with it. One of those electronic bore scopes that attach to your phone are handy and not expensive.
 
Witmo said:
I am a frequent shopper at Harbor Freight. Their mechanic's tool boxes are perhaps their best value for money. Stay away from any electric tools there. Their hand tools are junk but I buy what I need so I don't feel bad when I grind them down to fit some specific application that I would hate to ruin a "good" tool. The big advantage of the high priced professional tools are they will fit in places the junk brands are too chunky to fit. I have about half a dozen of the HF multimeters scattered around to mostly check battery voltage but my go to meter is a Fluke for wiring work. Digital Snap On torque wrench is an investment I am happy I made. Quality safety wire twist pliers are another place not to scrimp. I second the need for a decent digital camera--I take pictures of everything before I start messing with it. One of those electronic bore scopes that attach to your phone are handy and not expensive.
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+1 on the torque wrench. If there's any tool you don't want to bargain-shop for, that would be the one.

Rich
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I agree with Tom. I think the idea that every new mechanic needs to get a Snap-On account is fading as the once great brands seem to have lost their greatness to some extent.

When I started working on cars about 20 years ago I bought a lot of cheaper brand tools - Stanley, Companion (the "budget" version of Craftsman) and Harbor Freight. One of my friends said he just didn't get it, because I'd be using tools for life and they'd fail me well before, then I'd be buying a second set. 20 years in I still am using a good number of those same tools and they work well. Some of the cheaper tools I have have shocked me with how well they've lasted, like a "Chicago Electric" reciprocating saw and electric impact gun that I've owned for about 15 years.

Generally things like sockets, ratchets, box/open end wrenches, and extensions, anyone can make those pretty well. Some of the other more precise hand tools there, including (oddly) screwdrivers, I would spend money on good ones although with any of the precision hand tools, including safety wire pliers. The Snap On screwdrivers I've used are noticeably way, way better than cheaper ones. I also buy a lot of Milwaukee impact drill bits for Phillips, and for power tools my go-to is DeWalt. My toolbox is Harbor Freight and I'm very happy with it.

However if I could get a 50% discount from SnapOn, I would absolutely do that.
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I respectfully disagree about the sockets. I've got scars from cheap sockets breaking.
 
John221us said:
Maybe step up on a few tools that will see a lot of use, like a ratcheting screw driver and the ratchet drivers. JH Williams is the industrial brand for Snap On (but a lot cheaper). I bought this one and love it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NI1LZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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+1. I am still using my SO and SK wrenches and ratchets daily. Bought when I started in school. If you get a discount, use it now.

That said, it is nice to have some cheap stuff to modify and let the pilots use.

PS Get a good 10x magnifier. I use mine regularly. Cessna single seat tracks, prop dressing.
 
two ratchets that I use a lot.
 

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What does "long drive" in item #1 of the school's list mean?
 
JAWS said:
And with a good gun, the soldier just might hit the target!:)
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Unless you're a sniper, a rifle is there to keep the other guys head down until the artillery can take him out. If you have a lot of guys shooting, odds are the lead swarm has to hit somebody. (Was never an artillery man.)
 
When I got my A&P, Snap-On offered a great discount, but even with a discount, they didn't match Craftsman's prices and they both had lifetime warranties. They both fit the same sizes. Snap-On is a little more precise in their dimensions, which eliminates slop when turning wrenches and might be helpful in tight quarters, but if the nut/bolt head has some damage, the Craftsman might fit, while the Snap-On might not.

Oh, and as far as toolboxes go, get ones with roller bearings on the drawers. They are really nice, and reduce the effort to open and close. We also got shelf liner for the drawers. That way, the tools stay in place when you open and close the drawers. The liner should be open mesh, and have a bit of stick to it.

Finally, get the pizza cart style, so the top is lower than a low-winged plane. Then you don't have to worry about hitting wings. I made the mistake of getting an upright set of cases that were higher than the low-winged plane's wing. Never caused any hangar rash, but I had to be extra careful.
 
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