Removing Warrior Yokes

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buzzard86

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Jim R
Hey gang -

I have to go pull a set of yokes out of a Warrior. Hoping not to have to bring the whole toolbox with me in the airplane when I fly out to fetch them. Is it as simple as removing a bolt from the shaft? Do you know the nut/bolt sizes??

Thanks.
Jim
 
probably not. most were installed with a taper pin in the u-joint to shaft. that pin is a bi..h to get out. you cant just un-bolt it and drive it out, the pin will bend before it moves. some guys use a modified motorcycle chain breaker to remove it.
 
unsafervguy said:
probably not. most were installed with a taper pin in the u-joint to shaft. that pin is a bi..h to get out. you cant just un-bolt it and drive it out, the pin will bend before it moves. some guys use a modified motorcycle chain breaker to remove it.
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Dang. Great info, thanks. I’ve obviously never done it before. Pulling a set of rams horns from a parts plane to have installed to replace the bow ties in my Cherokee.

Not sure if this question makes sense, but is it easier to remove more of the assembly from the plane and then remove the taper pin on the bench?
 
Suggest talking to the A&P that will be installing them.

Back in 2002 I replaced the bow ties on my 140 with ram horns. The A&Ps working on my airplane (we were in the middle of some extensive work, including firewall forward overhaul) recommended that we hire a local guy that specialized in replacing the yokes. "My" A&Ps could have done it, but it would have taken them a lot more hours. Sometimes it makes sense to have someone experienced doing the work rather than pay for a learning curve.
 
Make sure the yoke shafts are the same size.
 
Bob Noel said:
Suggest talking to the A&P that will be installing them.

Back in 2002 I replaced the bow ties on my 140 with ram horns. The A&Ps working on my airplane (we were in the middle of some extensive work, including firewall forward overhaul) recommended that we hire a local guy that specialized in replacing the yokes. "My" A&Ps could have done it, but it would have taken them a lot more hours. Sometimes it makes sense to have someone experienced doing the work rather than pay for a learning curve.
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I have a message in, but he’s out of country so I don’t expect to hear back for a few days. I assumed that this was a simple swap since it’s so common. I don’t particularly like the shape of the bowtie and I fly a lot so the hundred hour A.D. is really a pain.
 
Can you replace the entire shaft so the taper pin doesn't have to be removed?
 
buzzard86 said:
I have a message in, but he’s out of country so I don’t expect to hear back for a few days. I assumed that this was a simple swap since it’s so common. I don’t particularly like the shape of the bowtie and I fly a lot so the hundred hour A.D. is really a pain.
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my understanding is that it's not a simple swap.

But perhaps my airplane also needed the u-joints replaced as well. It's been 22 years and I don't have the logs anymore... the logs went with the airplane when I sold the plane.
 
buzzard86 said:
I have no idea. I'm hoping that I can remove more than I need and then have my A&P sort it out.
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Perhaps with your mechanics input you could "practice" on your co-pilot control wheel and see exactly what it will take to remove?
 
buzzard86 said:
Hey gang -

I have to go pull a set of yokes out of a Warrior. Hoping not to have to bring the whole toolbox with me in the airplane when I fly out to fetch them. Is it as simple as removing a bolt from the shaft? Do you know the nut/bolt sizes??

Thanks.
Jim
Click to expand...
I agree with Bell206, if they are going on your plane than look at yours first. Then I would look around for a warrior near by and ask if you could take a few pictures. Maybe look around with a mirror and light.
This would be after I looked at the service manual for planes you're working on.

Instead of taking my dog with me, I would take most of my tools with me.

Good luck!
 
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Bell206 said:
Perhaps with your mechanics input you could "practice" on your co-pilot control wheel and see exactly what it will take to remove?
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My mechanic is away and these will likely be scooped up by someone else if I hesitate, thus my post here. They're reasonably local, I may make the first trip a scouting trip and then make a return trip with tools and a plan.
 
Dana said:
Can you replace the entire shaft so the taper pin doesn't have to be removed?
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Not likely. That taper pin sticks out, as does its nut, and it won't fit though the bushing in the panel on the way out.

1725121217551.png


One might be able to get it out by dismantling the bushing assembly from the panel. Dunno; never done it.

1725121242917.png

I do remember having to drill that taper pin once, from the fat end, very carefully, starting with a small bit and working up to somewhat larger bits, to remove enough metal that the remaining shell collapses and the pin comes out.

Cessna just uses an AN3 bolt there. No hassle at all. Doesn't wear out, either, if torqued to specs.
 
Dan Thomas said:
Not likely. That taper pin sticks out, as does its nut, and it won't fit though the bushing in the panel on the way out.

View attachment 132979


One might be able to get it out by dismantling the bushing assembly from the panel. Dunno; never done it.

View attachment 132980

I do remember having to drill that taper pin once, from the fat end, very carefully, starting with a small bit and working up to somewhat larger bits, to remove enough metal that the remaining shell collapses and the pin comes out.

Cessna just uses an AN3 bolt there. No hassle at all. Doesn't wear out, either, if torqued to specs.
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Dan, this schematic is a HUGE help. Is #30 the pin in question, or better to pull #24 and the entire u-joint? And if I'm understanding correct, the bolt comes off but the pin remains and is too large to fit through the bushing assembly?
 
buzzard86 said:
And if I'm understanding correct, the bolt comes off but the pin remains and is too large to fit through the bushing assembly?
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The nut comes off but there's still the pin's threads and its fat end sticking out.

In that first picture, a bolt is used rather than a taper pin. Likely depends on airplane serial number. You might get lucky and find a bolt in it.
 
as dan said, you might get lucky and have one with the bolt. are you replacing just the yoke or the yoke and the tube? i have never heard of anyone replacing the yoke in the plane, they all seem to take the tube out and replace the whole thing or change the yoke on the bench. you have the yoke and tube you could have the problem of yours being a bolt and the new one a taper pin, or vice versa. that would mean you would have to change a few more parts. mainly the u-joint, and hang on they are north of 200 bucks last time i checked.
 
Below is the AD for Yoke Universal Joint Inspection and the Piper MSB that goes with it.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0m27...oint.pdf?rlkey=dsqk0gequzl7rdjrr5oxbnl5g&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l9s8...haft.pdf?rlkey=1e4u4alfjnwb03sl11id0l4rj&dl=0

A PDF showing the inspection process and the aforementioned chain breaker modified to remove the taper pin.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l1gz...on.r.pdf?rlkey=wt9ewxhdlelhlcnrgpgihd9oq&dl=0

More chain breaker info and a forum thread on the process.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/q11z...ol.r.pdf?rlkey=5fljd6kangwdmtr26yf7vkk97&dl=0

Specs on the taper hole reamer.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gvtn...e.-1.pdf?rlkey=kw0ul6275dw0gwg04b4rzoh6d&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hbx2...N386.jpg?rlkey=osb35osxhjme21nelbwblj0oo&dl=0

McFarlane parts invoice.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/cxgr...cted.pdf?rlkey=lgpqwsfdjgx2aw9rggx3dgdqw&dl=0
 
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Hey guys, thanks to ALL for the great info in this thread. Will definitely revisit this content with my A&P for the reinstall. The seller's A&P was there today and offered to pull the yokes for me for $100. Seemed like money well spent to have someone who knows that they're doing pull them and ensure that I don't damage them.

I'll post pics here when this project is done. Thanks again!
-Jim
 
I would have paid $100 to have someone pull my yoke.

Wait. Does that sound suggestive?
 
View attachment IMG_0606.jpeg
Success! A&P said one came out easily and the other was a PITA. They are in good shape
and I got the u-joints with them.

Question, the pilot side has the trim button but I don’t have electric trim and would like to remove. Anybody know where I can find some sort of a blank to replace that switch? My initial search was unproductive.
 
buzzard86 said:
View attachment 133124
Success! A&P said one came out easily and the other was a PITA. They are in good shape
and I got the u-joints with them.

Question, the pilot side has the trim button but I don’t have electric trim and would like to remove. Anybody know where I can find some sort of a blank to replace that switch? My initial search was unproductive.
Click to expand...

Why not just leave it?

You can make up all sorts of things it’s used for, just to mess with people
 
buzzard86 said:
View attachment 133124


Question, the pilot side has the trim button but I don’t have electric trim and would like to remove. Anybody know where I can find some sort of a blank to replace that switch? My initial search was unproductive.
Click to expand...

Can’t you cut a piece of metal to be a cover?
 
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buzzard86 said:
I have a message in, but he’s out of country so I don’t expect to hear back for a few days. I assumed that this was a simple swap since it’s so common. I don’t particularly like the shape of the bowtie and I fly a lot so the hundred hour A.D. is really a pain.
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To get a head start on what's required, download copies of the relevant exploded parts diagrams and part number list for both aircraft, then compare the two.

Edit: I posted before reading all replies to the thread, and see, to no surprise, Dan Thomas has done my suggestion one better. He is the best information source on the internet for questions about maintaining and repairing piston powered aircraft, and is truly a treasure.
 
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3393RP said:
To get a head start on what's required, download copies of the relevant exploded parts diagrams and part number list for both aircraft, then compare the two.

Edit: I posted before reading all replies to the thread, and see, to no surprise, Dan Thomas has done my suggestion one better. He is the best information source on the internet for questions about maintaining and repairing piston powered aircraft, and is truly a treasure.
Click to expand...
Indeed! The wealth of information here and the generosity of people sharing their expertise is amazing.
 
Ok guys, new question. I’d like to get these powder coated while they’re off. Before I do anything that could damage the center logos, can anyone tell me how they are affixed? Any tips on getting them off without breaking/cracking?

IMG_0614.jpeg
 
Yoke looks great.

Will the temperature of powder coating affect the temper of the tubes?

Would plating be more desirable?
 
geezer said:
Yoke looks great.

Will the temperature of powder coating affect the temper of the tubes?

Would plating be more desirable?
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Good questions. Yokes are in good shape but chipping on grips (not pictured). I didn't think powder coating got concerningly hot, but I could be wrong.
 
After extensive surface prep, an electrostatic charge is applied to the piece and the oppositely charged resin sprayed on. The piece is then cured with heat. How hot depends on the type and thickness of the resin. Specifics are left as a exercise for the reader.
 
geezer said:
Yoke looks great.

Will the temperature of powder coating affect the temper of the tubes?

Would plating be more desirable?
Click to expand...
I'd be more concerned with the aluminum casting of that control wheel, which is its proper name. The yoke is the mechanism behind the panel that rocks back and forth and carries the aileron control mechanisms.

Powder coating involves baking temps of 400 or 450°F. That's higher than the artificial aging temps of some aluminum casting alloys.

Piper calls their yoke a "T bar."

1725742356133.png
 
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