Why Alkaline Batteries are not in my flight bag

asicer

Touchdown! Greaser!
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asicer
I was gifted a set of LED candles about 9 years ago. It came with a set of AA batteries, which I kept in the original shrink wrap packaging and promptly transferred them to a plastic box specially designed to hold AA batteries. I then placed that box in my bedroom closet.

Fast forward to today. I have a device running on LSD NiMH's that's acting up, so I decide to see if works better on alkaline batteries. I pull out the box and discover that 2 sets of that 7 look like this:
1720126102757.png
1720126081277.png
 
I have them in bags and on aircraft but I look at them regularly to check for this.
Many of my devices have label-maker dates on them indicating when new batteries were installed.
It's a known problem (I angrily suggested a class action after the last device I lost from this).
(9 years is a bit much to expect)
 
Perhaps a nicely worded email to Duracell would get them replaced as they obviously did not last until Mar 2025.
 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.

 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.

We used lithium CR123 batteries in our many of our flashlights and weapon lights, and had boxes of spares on the shelf. They legit have a loooong shelf life, don’t leak and last just as long in use as brand-new fresh from the factory batteries.
 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.
We used lithium CR123 batteries in our many of our flashlights and weapon lights, and had boxes of spares on the shelf. They legit have a loooong shelf life, don’t leak and last just as long in use as brand-new fresh from the factory batteries.
That’s my new strategy as of a few years ago. I am glad to hear confirmation that it’s a viable plan.

And by the way, I believe they are lithium iron disulfide and not lithium ion.
 
Many devices have agreements with battery manufacturers to replace damaged units caused by battery leaks in pre-expiration date batteries. Mag light wouldn’t replace my flashlight after the 10yr past expiration date Ray-O-Vacs exploded inside.
 
As stated above, I also use only the “Lithium” primary (non-rechargeable) batteries for all my AAA/AA aviation needs. Another contributing cause is the heat cycling, If the batteries are left in a hot plane, or in your flight bag that gets left in a hot car, I’ve noticed severely shortened lifetime and leaks. Eg alkaline headset batteries will leak if left in hot plane, Lithium primary cells eliminate that risk.

Nowadays I always use the Enegrizer Lithium big packs at Costco, or the EBL brand on Amazon.
 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.

Good tip! Stealing.
 
Another battery tip:
If you have a battery that’s going to be closed-up for a long time, wear some nitrile/latex gloves when installing so that the residue from your fingers doesn’t cause corrosion.

This is for any battery that is goin to sit for a year or more.

I’ve opened up old coin battery compartments and seen my fingerprints as corrosion on the battery terminal, where I touched it when inserting.
 
I've had some devices damaged by leakage from that brand of alkaline cells, so I have switched to Energizer brand a year or two ago. So far so good, but it's probably too soon to conclude anything.
 
Yeah, I used to buy Duracell because they never seemed to leak. That was 20+ years ago. Then I had some leak after less than a year of storage, way before expiry. So now I just buy AA's in bulk from B&H, whatever brand is reasonably priced at the time and I never keep batteries in devices that aren't being used every day.

Oh, the other thing that's changed is that some of the NiMH AA's, particularly Panasonic, are better than they used to be. Very low self discharge compared to years ago.
 
I keep mine in a ziplock bag in the flight bag. I’m changing them often enough it’s a non-issue, just using the Sam’s club store brand ones that come in a gigantic package.
 
The rechargeables seem to last a long time, I have some over 10 years old, they will eventually not be able to be charged, but they don’t leak.
It’s funny some devices explicitly mention not to use rechargeables when they clearly work just fine.
 
The rechargeables seem to last a long time, I have some over 10 years old, they will eventually not be able to be charged, but they don’t leak.
It’s funny some devices explicitly mention not to use rechargeables when they clearly work just fine.
I forget if it was LightSpeed or Tekex but I once asked a headset manufacturer about that. They said the concern was charge continuity. Since they didn’t say, “damage to the unit,” I used them. No problem.
 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.

:yeahthat:

I've been switching to those too. I used then in the outdoor sensor for my weather station, and couldn't believe how long they lasted...it was 4-5 years. I was lucky to get a full year out of Duracells with temp swings from 100F down to below zero. Yes, sadly, that does happen for you Florida folk. :lol:
 
Had a Duracell battery leak in a weather station a few weeks after purchase. Duracell covered the loss.
Tried Energizer, so far no problems. Eneloop is another brand that has good feedback.
 
I am not sure there are any small batteries NOT manufactured in China.
They have us by the balls. How many military sighting systems use such batteries? Imagine if the CCP decided to stop exporting batteries.
 
Anyone using rechargeable batteries in the common sizes AA, AAA, C, D...?
 
Anyone using rechargeable batteries in the common sizes AA, AAA, C, D...?
I’ve used the NiMh rechargeables in AA and AAA. Some High quality batteries will work good enough for children’s toys, but for long storage they self-drain too much for my needs.

The problem is if the NiMh drains too far, the charger rejects it and will not charge it again. I’ve “forced” a recovery of some of these discharged batteries, but they are never the same again. The fact that the single deep-discharge kills the battery, is what made me stop using them.

I’ve heard some Li-rechargeable for AA is better now but the voltage is incompatible: Li chemistry is 3.6v / cell so can’t really work in a AA/AAA unless extra converter circuits, etc.

A device made for rechargeable Li-Ion from the start, like an 18650 cell, seems the best tech, those things are great; wish I could switch everything over to 18650 cells.
 
Anyone using rechargeable batteries in the common sizes AA, AAA, C, D...?
Not that many good options in C or D format. Most of them are just a AA in a C or D case, but severely overpriced and most of them with fake capacity markings.
Get a few sets of low self-discharge Ni-MH cells (Eneloops, GP Recyko, even the Amazon brand) and a decent charger that can do single cells and do a capacity check. Ask a friend with a 3D printer (if you don't have one) to make you a few spacers to turn them into C and D cells. You won't have to buy primary cells ever again.
 
Anyone using rechargeable batteries in the common sizes AA, AAA, C, D...?
AA and AAA all the time in photo and audio equipment. I like the panasonic batteries.

And for D cells, the following works OK. Not perfect, way less capacity than a D cell, but useful for LED camping lanterns that only take D.


With NiMH's, it's just as important to get a good charger as good batteries, IMO.
 
AA and AAA all the time in photo and audio equipment. I like the panasonic batteries.

And for D cells, the following works OK. Not perfect, way less capacity than a D cell, but useful for LED camping lanterns that only take D.


With NiMH's, it's just as important to get a good charger as good batteries, IMO.
 
I am not sure there are any small batteries NOT manufactured in China.
The FDK factory in Japan makes NiMH for Eneloop and IKEA.
Anyone using rechargeable batteries in the common sizes AA, AAA, C, D...?
I’ve heard some Li-rechargeable for AA is better now but the voltage is incompatible: Li chemistry is 3.6v / cell so can’t really work in a AA/AAA unless extra converter circuits, etc.
The charger, converter and BMS have been miniaturized enough that it’s built into the cell now. Here’s one example in a D size.

And AAA.
Batteria-ricaricabile-ad-alta-capacit-1-5V-AAA-batteria-agli-ioni-di-litio-1110mwh-batteria-1.jpg_.webp
 
I put AA batteries in my flight bag, They get used rather quickly.
 
I have about 3 dozen Eneloops. I rarely use regular batteries. They have been great so far.
I think I read somewhere that Panasonic and Eneloop were somehow connected manufacturing wise.
 
I've gone to using non-rechargeable Li-ion in things that will be sitting for a long time, like the flashlight and handheld radio in my plane. Not only do they last an eternity, they won't corrode and leak.

me too.

Also just an anecdotal observation, but it seems like every time I've dealt with leaking cells, it has been either Duracell or cheap dollar store type stuff. I wonder if there are any scientific studies comparing leaking to battery brand.....
 
To add a data point. I just found a leaked Duracell AA in a flashlight I keep in my bag. It stopped working so I went to replace the battery. The cell was completely corroded. It was well inside the good by date and hardly used. It destroyed the $70 light by eating it from the inside.
 
The eveready endergizers have not leaked on me yet, and do command a premium..
The duracell brand is no longer any better than any store bought brand as far as leakage, and corrosion...:(
 
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To add a data point. I just found a leaked Duracell AA in a flashlight I keep in my bag. It stopped working so I went to replace the battery. The cell was completely corroded. It was well inside the good by date and hardly used. It destroyed the $70 light by eating it from the inside.

DURACELL BATTERY GUARANTEE
GUARANTEE: If not completely satisfied with your Duracell battery product, call 1-800-551-2355 (9:00AM – 5:00PM EST). Duracell guarantees its batteries against defects in materials and workmanship. Should any device be damaged due to a battery defect, we will repair or replace it at our option. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided as proof of claim. Duracell may deny claims of damage caused by misuse or modification of the batteries or device.
 

DURACELL BATTERY GUARANTEE
GUARANTEE: If not completely satisfied with your Duracell battery product, call 1-800-551-2355 (9:00AM – 5:00PM EST). Duracell guarantees its batteries against defects in materials and workmanship. Should any device be damaged due to a battery defect, we will repair or replace it at our option. Leaking battery and damaged device must be provided as proof of claim. Duracell may deny claims of damage caused by misuse or modification of the batteries or device.
Great to know!
 
Rechargeable flashlights, with USB-C ports would eliminate messing with battery removal and external chargers. So many devices are USB-C now that you can easily charge them while on the road too.

I have a rechargeable USB-C headlamp, that’s the only “flashlight” I need anymore. get a good one that’s water resistant and had Red LED.

I use the Nitecore NU25 400, about $35 to $40 on Amazon.

Mine is powerful enough to light up a bright spot for pre-flight inspections, but also a Red LED for in-cockpit night flying. Battery Lasts forever, has capacity indicator so you never run low.

I’m really a fan of the “Headlamp” style, allows me to have both hands free, and the light is always pointed where I am looking.
 
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Duraleaks strike again. Their battery guarantee isn't worth the hassle of time/convenience lost, IMHO.
 
I have a rechargeable USB-C headlamp, that’s the only “flashlight” I need anymore. get a good one that’s water resistant and had Red LED.

I use the Nitecore NU25 400, about $35 to $40 on Amazon.

Mine is powerful enough to light up a bright spot for pre-flight inspections, but also a Red LED for in-cockpit night flying. Battery Lasts forever, has capacity indicator so you never run low.

I’m really a fan of the “Headlamp” style, allows me to have both hands free, and the light is always pointed where I am looking.

You can’t wear one of those headlamps without looking like a geek. ;-)
 
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