Who can do Rigging?

WDD

WDD

Final Approach
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Vintage Snazzy (so my adult children say)
If I wanted to get rigging checked and re rigged, would your standard A&P be able to do that, or does that require a special shop to get it dialed in? I’m finding I need nose down trim and left trim in cruise, and want it checked out.
 
You will want to specify what configuration you want it ring for.

Fuel level, passengers, right seat, or rear, baggage etc.

Flying perfectly would just someone in the left seat is one thing, but then

he put some in the right seat. It’ll change everything.
 
Hang 4 said:
Assume from your avatar, you have a Cessna? Any A&P can follow the service procedure, but this guy takes it to the next level.

https://www.cessnarigging.com/
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I reached out to John a couple months back to do my plane and he was scheduled out to the end of the year and reluctant at that time to schedule more work. I reached out to him recently but have not heard back yet.
 
WDD said:
Hoping to find an expert like that a bit closer.
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Any mechanic is capable, but the key is their experience and what procedure they use. Its not really a technical task per say, just takes patience and to follow the complete process with no shortcuts.

However, all proper rigging starts with a control system that meets spec: wear within limits, clean, and lubed. If your system is not to spec, then usually the results will not be spec either.

A good place to start is at your next annual when everything is open and review, clean, and lube every flight control item per the book. Or if this is something you want done sooner, then open things up and check it. Once you know the system is to spec, then have it rigged per the book.

What's your current mechanic input on this?

If you have access to your specific maintenance manual, perhaps read up on it to give you a better understanding on it. Any questions post here?
 
I found most older Cessnas out of rig. Mechanics too often shoot from the hip on this stuff, and over the years an airplane just gets worse as subsequent mechanics change stuff to try to fix previous misrigging instead of reading the manuals and starting over and doing it right. The dumbest is rigging one aileron low to fix a wing-heavy issue; it does not work. The airflow will push the low aileron up until the other is pushed down to a similar low angle, and the wing-heaviness will still be there, but with an aggravated stall and lower cruising speed.

Read the manuals and do exactly what they say.
 
455 Bravo Uniform said:
I reached out to John a couple months back to do my plane and he was scheduled out to the end of the year and reluctant at that time to schedule more work. I reached out to him recently but have not heard back yet.
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I also tried reaching out to John to schedule a rigging job, either he's booked solid, not taking any new customers or a bunch of reasons. Finally gave up and I'm now trying to work with another rigging guy at K81 in KS
 
Larry Korona said:
I also tried reaching out to John to schedule a rigging job, either he's booked solid, not taking any new customers or a bunch of reasons. Finally gave up and I'm now trying to work with another rigging guy at K81 in KS
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Let me know how it goes, please.
 
There are actually things you or your Tech can check but you cannot

adjust.Everyone will have a different starting point and sequence on

this but this is my approach: ( my recall of 150 Manual.)

1. Determine if Flaps UP is correct . This will also provide the

NEUTRAL of Ailerons. If this is not correct you have likely found

the problem and proceed to rig Flaps then Ailerons per SM.

This is significant in cruise.

Note that it is quite common on Cessnas to find sagging Panel Shock Mounts.

This can cause the T & B Ball to be in error.


If NEUTRAL is correct you may have bigger issues. When

Wings are repaired it is ESSENTIAL that wing twist or “ wash-out”

be verified. There is a simple procedure in the SM using a level

and grinding 3 scrap bolts to particular lengths. This can be

checked with zero disassembly. If incorrect; the fix is not easy.


2. If Flaps and Ailerons have correct NEUTRAL position and a check

flight reveals a wing- heavy condition it’s likely the “Eccentrics”

at the Rear Spar Attach require adjustment.


NOT A ONE PERSON JOB

Generally it’s a 3 person task for a few minutes for the

actual adjustment. One front,one rear and an observer to

coordinate. If not done simultaneously Spar Damage will result.

This may affect cable tension.o


3. Control Surface Travel should not be a factor in cruise but is

important when maneuvering. When ailerons are adjusted it’s

Important the Bellcranks are centered per SM. Failure to do

will give odd roll/turn characteristics even if NEUTRAL is right.


3. Check Trim Indicator - With Elevator and Tab both in NEUTRAL

what is the indication?


Again; you are checking to verify rigging per SM but a Tech must

adjust.



Hope this helps
 
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Magman said:
3. Check Trim Indicator - With Elevator and Tab both in NEUTRAL

what is the indication?
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In some of the 172s the tab will be up a few degrees with the trim in the takeoff position. Adjusting the system to have the tab neutral at the T/O indication will result in having to rapidly trim nose-down after takeoff. Pilots hate that. The manual gives the rigging procedure.
 
WDD said:
If I wanted to get rigging checked and re rigged, would your standard A&P be able to do that, or does that require a special shop to get it dialed in? I’m finding I need nose down trim and left trim in cruise, and want it checked out.
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I have a rather low opinion of standard APs these days. Most APs with experience are have an IA and I would stick with that.
 
Clip4 said:
I have a rather low opinion of standard APs these days. Most APs with experience are have an IA and I would stick with that.


Several A&P’s I know are quite competent. They tend to hate “ paperwork

and would rather focus on a few large jobs rather than multiple inspections.
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Clip4 said:
Most APs with experience are have an IA and I would stick with that.
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Not really. If you were talking about IAs prior to 2000 I'd agree, but after that its not always an indicator of "experience" or knowledge. In todays the better way to vet a mechanic is for you to become more knowledgeable on what you need to have performed and engage in a discussion with them. Then make your decision.
 
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