You probably could fix that by cleaning the right ground connection(s). So, basically, it's one of the wire connections or metal to metal connections on the airplane. You're welcome, I'll take my finders fee now.
I might be dating myself and alienating myself from some but does anyone remember driving a car with points? A condeser (yes autocorrect didn't have it in the dictionary) that is failing on a points based ignition system will give feedback. Grounding straps that are broken or corroded will do the same.I am going to clean the grounds tomorrow and I bought an alternator filter that I am going to find out if I can install or if my A&P has to do it.
Hopefully I can do it. Its 1 screw. Either way I am doing my first owner assisted annual so it should be fine.
I think a "finders fee" is proper but you should be a bit more specific as to which connection to clean ...
Good luck with that. Might not even find them in a really good electronics store, which are few now anyway, since so few folks actually build or fix anything anymore.So I noticed some of the headset jacks are missing the fiber washer and rubber spacer. so metal on metal.
Where might one source these locally?
I see them on aviation websites but surely these exist at a brick and mortar store?
Noisy points ignition will cause a low-frequency buzz or a bunch of crackling. The alternator whine is a distinct sine-wave howl, at a much higher frequency than ignition noise. If the condenser in a magneto goes bad, the spark get weak or dies, and hard starting is the usual result.I might be dating myself and alienating myself from some but does anyone remember driving a car with points? A condeser (yes autocorrect didn't have it in the dictionary) that is failing on a points based ignition system will give feedback. Grounding straps that are broken or corroded will do the same.
So I noticed some of the headset jacks are missing the fiber washer and rubber spacer. so metal on metal.
Where might one source these locally?
I see them on aviation websites but surely these exist at a brick and mortar
store?
Got to take all of them out, even those in the back seat, if there is one, and the handheld mike jack, too.Ok, if you have the jacks removed from the panel so they no longer can create a ground loop, go ahead and plug your headset up and see if the noise has gone away. If not, then that is not your problem.
So I noticed some of the headset jacks are missing the fiber washer and rubber spacer. so metal on metal.
Where might one source these locally?
I see them on aviation websites but surely these exist at a brick and mortar store?
I gave up on Radio Shack a long time ago. It's just a toy store now. Our society has changed a lot. People don't have hobbies like amateur radio or electronics. They don't have hobbies like metalworking and machining either. A few do some woodworking. Of all the people I know, only two besides myself have a metalworking lathe, and one of them is my son. He and I are the only two people I know who have built wooden boats. Even the EA-B world is almost all kitplanes; very few build an aircraft from raw materials and a set of blueprints. A kitplane is more like paint-by-numbers than real homebuilding.I actually think that might have had a little to do with Radio Shack's downfall.... they actually stopped carrying a lot of those little things. Towards the end they didn't have much stock of little pieces and parts....switches, connectors, and the like. Instead they moved focus to compete with stores like Circuit City or Best Buy
The insulator is a stepped fiber washer. You won't find it. It's like that to prevent the side of the jack's thread from contacting the hole edge. That hole has to be drilled larger to accommodate the step.Other than amazon, maybe try to bring some of the intact ones to a hardware store and ask the old guy who seems to know everything if they have anything that looks like that. I imagine you could cut the fiber out of a lot of things like maybe gasket sheets(auto parts store) and rubber washers are a thing, just have to find one the right size.
If I was desperate I'd chuck a scrap of Delrin in the lathe and spin off a few.https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/04-00976.php?
I was going to suggest I could 3D print that but there seems to be an easier path.
Isolate each electrical circuit individually by switch/CB/fuse/disconnect until whine stops with power on. Then repair it.what is the next step?
Turn coordinator filter shot or disconnected? Strobe powerpack? Is everything turned off that can be turned off, with the master on?Ruled out the alternator.
Just did annual and cleaned up sow wiring around the alternator and installed the alternator filter.
Also did the obvious step of turning the master on while the engine wasn't running and there was that whining.
So having ruled out the alternator, what is the next step?
Ha! Wrong thread. I believe you were looking for "Let's Make Friday 'Joke Day!'" thread.40 hours of randomly replacing parts can easily save 4 hours of troubleshooting.