Using Power Polisher

SoCal 182 Driver

SoCal 182 Driver

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SoCal 182 Driver
Friends -

I have a Porter Cable polisher (7424XP). I have used it very successfully on my cars, including a vintage German car. I'd like to wax and polish my C182, but I'm concerned about burning the paint on the rivet heads.

Has anyone successfully used a power polisher on their plane? If so, what are the tricks and tips to keep from burning the paint on the rivet heads?

Thanks very much!
 
I bought a polisher to fix some scratching on the rear windows of my Cessna and this lead me down the deep dark rabbit hole of polishing. Soon I found myself polishing my truck, my wife's car, my mom's SUV, the lawnmower (just kidding), etc etc etc. Who knew it could be so addicting?

One thing I have not been successful in polishing is the plane (the windows, yes, the paint, no). But my experience is probably unique to my plane, whose paint is super old and marginal as is. What I found happening was that the polishing was actually removing the paint (not actually removing it [down to bare aluminum] but that there was the tiniest smudging effect where colors overlap).

Given my experience polishing, I wouldn't personally worry too much about burning the paint on the rivet heads - you could probably ignore them for all intents and purposes, but even if not, with a little bit of care you should be able to work around them.

That said, if this is your first time polishing, I would definitely recommend starting on something that is less expensive than your plane (like the lawnmower, hah). It's not that hard, and there's not that much that you can really hurt, but there is a lot to learn to do it reasonably well. Following the instructions of whatever product you are using to a "T" is pretty important for good results, in my experience.
 
What shape is your paint in? Unless you've got some heavy oxidation going on, you don't need to hit it with strong compound. A good wash and some collinite works well.
 
flyingron said:
What shape is your paint in? Unless you've got some heavy oxidation going on, you don't need to hit it with strong compound. A good wash and some collinite works well.
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Paint is decent, but not great. It's a 20-footer. :D

Tell me more about Collinite.
 
It's called Collinite insulator wax number 845. You can google it and Amazon among other places sell it. It's good stuff BUT you need the surface clean of oxidation and bug splatter because this stuff will just wax over it.

Having said that, I too have tried to use my Porter Cable ROS on my airplane. It doesn't work very well. You're better off with just an orbital sander or polisher with a wool pad on it. I wouldn't worry too much about the rivets unless you're spending too much time in one area. If you have to do that, just do it by hand.

I've used just about every polish in the book and it just came down to regular old Turtle Wax rubbing compound for the oxidation and the Collinite for the top. It really depends on the shape of your paint. Hard paints polish easier.

I also go over the bugs splatter with Lucas Slick Mist after every flight. I only wax about every other year. I do a lot of spot waxing in between if needed and people always ask me if the plane was just painted even though the paint is over 20 years old.
 
Timbeck2 said:
I've used just about every polish in the book and it just came down to regular old Turtle Wax rubbing compound for the oxidation and the Collinite for the top.
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Are you referring to the classic red Turtle Wax rubbing compound, or the less aggressive white polishing compound?
 
I'm not sure, but aren't most GA aircraft single stage paints with no clear coat? If so, polishing may take a lot more finesse on an airplane than you can get away with on a car.
 
There are plenty of good vids on YT about detailing aircraft. They don't hit the rivet heads hard, but you can go over them gently.
 
Snowmass said:
Yes, you can easily polish the paint off of the rivet heads so do it by hand and circumvent the rivet head.
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I had a similar thought, but there are so many rivet heads, and they're relatively close together, that it seems difficult (at best) to use a power buffer and avoid hitting the rivet heads.

I've ordered pads with no cutting abrasiveness, and will not be using any sort of polishing compound. My plan is to get the plane clean and then apply Collinite with the buffer to wax it, and wipe-off the Collinite by hand. The plane is a "20-footer," and all I'm trying to do is making a better 20-footer, or maybe a 15-footer. My intent isn't to make it a showpiece...and instead just to make it shine a bit more.
 
The power polisher, aka the power paint swirler/remover in the wrong hands. Be careful.
 
PaulS said:
The power polisher, aka the power paint swirler/remover in the wrong hands. Be careful.
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I'm experienced with power polishers (see the original post), but it's the rivet heads that have me concerned. I'm hoping that the non-cutting pads, a light touch with the polisher, and non-abrasive wax will do the trick!
 
I've used a Porter Cable polisher on my airplane for years. Works great, I just use it at a low setting.
 
steingar said:
I've used a Porter Cable polisher on my airplane for years. Works great, I just use it at a low setting.
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I have the same polisher, and my intent is the same...low power setting (with non-cutting pads).
 
Polishers like you guys are taking about are pretty safe to use in most cases. Got to use a good polish, opinions vary. Use a good one not a as seen on TV product. Like my buddy was using. I gave him some 3M polish and a foam pad buffer on low speed. It made a believer out of him. Lol

Buffer is a rotary pad and can do more aggressive polishing. You have to be careful with a buffer cause if you get carried away you will have bare rivet heads.

I usually start with a buffer and finish with a orbital polisher to remove swirl marks from the buffer.

Many different pads can be used.View attachment 105694
 
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Single stage paint that’s in need of polish? Buff it first with kerosene by hand. No BS! Works great restores the oils to the paint- buffed off it leaves no oily residue… before everyone freaks out most polished contain petroleum distillates… my understanding is that’s industry lingo for basically kerosene!

don’t smoke while doing it n U’ll be fine- really breathes new life into older chalky paint
 
Huckster79 said:
Single stage paint that’s in need of polish? Buff it first with kerosene by hand. No BS! Works great restores the oils to the paint- buffed off it leaves no oily residue… before everyone freaks out most polished contain petroleum distillates… my understanding is that’s industry lingo for basically kerosene!

don’t smoke while doing it n U’ll be fine- really breathes new life into older chalky paint
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Otherwise known as a Mexican paint job. Looks good, but only lasts a couple months at most. I had pretty good success bringing back an oxidized paint job with NuFinish, but on an old Camaro with single stage.
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Otherwise known as a Mexican paint job. Looks good, but only lasts a couple months at most. I had pretty good success bringing back an oxidized paint job with NuFinish, but on an old Camaro with single stage.
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Idk I thought it brought it back further than waxes faster and then waxed more, but I think starting with it very much helped
 
I’d make sure the polisher is slow speed, use a cleaner solution, not a cutting polish, and change the bonnet often. Collinite cleaner did such a good job on my top surfaces the final wax wasn’t necessary.
 
Stewartb said:
I’d make sure the polisher is slow speed, use a cleaner solution, not a cutting polish, and change the bonnet often. Collinite cleaner did such a good job on my top surfaces the final wax wasn’t necessary.
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I'm not using bonnets, but I've ordered several non-cutting foam pads, as well as the Collinite cleaner and Collinite wax.
 
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