Tempest Oil Filter Mess

Cruzinchris

Cruzinchris

Pre-takeoff checklist
Joined
Jul 18, 2017
Messages
143
Display Name
Display name:
Cruzinchris
I like Tempest products; spark plugs and oil filters with a magnet. Unfortunately, I had a recent issue with their oil filter, trying to get the darn thing off.

They have a 1" nut to facilitate removal. Unfortunately, they paint it. When trying to get it off the plane my socket would not fully engage the nut because of the paint. The paint also seems to serve as a lubricant to help it slip. It turned out to be an exasperating ordeal.

I suggest that the paint be removed from the nut before installation. The socket fits much better and shouldn't be a problem next time.

upload_2020-6-29_17-26-45.png

upload_2020-6-29_17-27-30.png
 
I've used Tempest filters exactly one time for that reason. Never any problem with a Champion. I prefer the path of least resistance.
 
If this happens again and IF you have room (and I know "that second if is a big if when talking airplanes) Just drive a fairly long screwdriver all the way thru it and use it as your handle.

I've done this many times on airplanes and various yard and farm equipment. Works quite well...and long as there's ample room for the screwdriver to spin and you can catch the oil that pours out when you punch it thru.

or...

just drive the socket onto the nut with a hammer. I've done that before also.
 
I use a 1” 12 point box end craftsman wrench to remove them, have never had this issue with any tempest filters. At least 30 filters in the last 5 years.
Install with a 6 point craftsmen socket and snap on torque wrench
 
Sounds like someone over-torqued the filter when they put it on. If you use the Dow Compound W grease on the oil filter gasket and torque to 16-18 lbs., as most A&Ps do, the filter is not that hard to remove. That said, you can also use an oil filter band on the side of the filter with a socket for a 1/2". If you want to use the band to install the filter you will have to compute a revised torque for the filter because you are no longer using the center of the filter.
 
bnt83 said:
I use a 1” 12 point box end craftsman wrench to remove them, have never had this issue with any tempest filters. At least 30 filters in the last 5 years.
Install with a 6 point craftsmen socket and snap on torque wrench
Click to expand...

Thanks for your info. No problem torquing with any of my sockets. On removal I tired a 12 point initially and it started to slip immediately. Went to the 6 point and it seemed to grip but slipped before coming loose. I think they should drop the EZ!
 
Might be a trick here that will help you ...


A great grip and a rubber glove used to work for me most times when I was a younger man!
 
I wonder if it is because the filter gasket was lubed or oiled?
The new ones have a silicone based lube impregnated into the gasket.
Or, torqued to the upper range (I torque to the lower range).
Torque wrench checked recently?
I say all this b/c I've had zero problems with my Tempest.
 
anyone have documentation on "don't lube the filter ring?" as our A&P advocates a light schmear of Dow Corning DC-4 lube on the new ring ...

a quick google search brings this article up https://www.avweb.com/ownership/no-muss-no-fuss-oil-changing/
which states (in part)

"To prevent sticking of the new filter, prelubricate its gasket not with engine oil (as is usually done), but with Dow Corning DC-4 Compound, applied sparingly but evenly. Unlike engine oil, DC-4 will not break down at high operating temperatures (thus cementing the filter to the pad). Champion specifically approves the use of Dow Corning DC-4 as an “anti-stick” agent for spin-on filters; however, Champion recommends that this compound not be used on the gaskets that accompany take-apart (can/stud-type) filters."

but no cite to reference the "Champion approves Dow Corning DC-4"

From Lycoming https://www.lycoming.com/content/tips-changing-your-spin-oil-filter

"To prevent damage to the converter-plate gasket, the oil-filter gasket should be lubricated with a thin coating of Dow Corning Compound (DC-4) before the filter is installed. The filter should then be installed and hand-tightened until the seating surface makes contact with the lubricated gasket. The filter should then be turned with a torque wrench until a torque of 18-20 foot pounds is reached. The 20-foot pound maximum torque should not be exceeded."
 
Last edited:
gkainz said:
anyone have documentation on "don't lube the filter ring?" as our A&P advocates a light schmear of Dow Corning DC-4 lube on the new ring ...

a quick google search brings this article up https://www.avweb.com/ownership/no-muss-no-fuss-oil-changing/
which states (in part)

"To prevent sticking of the new filter, prelubricate its gasket not with engine oil (as is usually done), but with Dow Corning DC-4 Compound, applied sparingly but evenly. Unlike engine oil, DC-4 will not break down at high operating temperatures (thus cementing the filter to the pad). Champion specifically approves the use of Dow Corning DC-4 as an “anti-stick” agent for spin-on filters; however, Champion recommends that this compound not be used on the gaskets that accompany take-apart (can/stud-type) filters."

but no cite to reference the "Champion approves Dow Corning DC-4"

From Lycoming https://www.lycoming.com/content/tips-changing-your-spin-oil-filter

"To prevent damage to the converter-plate gasket, the oil-filter gasket should be lubricated with a thin coating of Dow Corning Compound (DC-4) before the filter is installed. The filter should then be installed and hand-tightened until the seating surface makes contact with the lubricated gasket. The filter should then be turned with a torque wrench until a torque of 18-20 foot pounds is reached. The 20-foot pound maximum torque should not be exceeded."
Click to expand...

That's a logical reference but Lycoming doesn't make oil filters. Also the torque printed right on the filter is 16-18 ft/pounds. In all my years of wrenching I've only put used oil on the gasket prior to using the spin-ez filters.

upload_2020-6-30_7-49-6.png
 
Cruzinchris said:
Thanks for your info. No problem torquing with any of my sockets. On removal I tired a 12 point initially and it started to slip immediately. Went to the 6 point and it seemed to grip but slipped before coming loose. I think they should drop the EZ!
Click to expand...

You might try different tools, I own a couple wrenches that are a lot tighter than others.
 
bnt83 said:
That's a logical reference but Lycoming doesn't make oil filters. Also the torque printed right on the filter is 16-18 ft/pounds. In all my years of wrenching I've only put used oil on the gasket prior to using the spin-ez filters.
Click to expand...
In automotive, I've also lubed the gasket with engine oil for years ... We're not using the Tempest filters, so I guess I need to verify which filter and that mfg's recommendation.
Thanks!
 
gkainz said:
anyone have documentation on "don't lube the filter ring?" as our A&P advocates a light schmear of Dow Corning DC-4 lube on the new ring ...
Click to expand...
That's what I always used.

and, admittedly, I've never torqued an oil filter in my life. Cars, trucks, tractors, mowers, airplanes...Nope!

I just always tighten them till they feel right, but I have about 45 years of experience doing so...

never had a problem with removal unless it was a seldom used piece of equipment that hadn't seen an oil change in multiple years.
 
The fact remains (from my experience) that Champions have better hex drives than Tempest. Given that neither has a TBO or service life advantage over the other my choice is the one that works better.

I use a 1" combination wrench on my filters. Always have. When the Tempest failed it wasn't from paint. It was from a poorly pressed canister and soft metal. Champion's can is much better.

I never torqued an oil filter until recently when I bought a torque wrench adapter wrench from Anti Splat at the same time I bought their CS propeller wrench ( the prop wrench is awesome!) It validates that my hand wrenching torque has been pretty darn good. And I always pick up a dab of oil from the adapter and lube the new filter's gasket. Always have, always will.
 
I have been using Tempest filters for some time now, and have never had any trouble getting them off with (gasp!) a crescent wrench. I have, on occasion over the years, used timwinters' screwdriver trick, but never (so far) on the airplane.

Tim
 
I used this thing for years:

proxy-image


It's a ratcheting box-end wrench. Preset to the 16-18 foot-pound torque. Flip it over to remove the filter. It gets into tight places where a socket can't go.
 
Dan Thomas said:
I used this thing for years:

proxy-image


It's a ratcheting box-end wrench. Preset to the 16-18 foot-pound torque. Flip it over to remove the filter. It gets into tight places where a socket can't go.
Click to expand...

Do you have to get that calibrated regularly? It's cool and for someone like yourself that does this for a living, its perfect but at $80 for a dedicated torque wrench...
 
I've found that a strap wrench will get most balky filters, even better if you can pair it up with a socket on top.
 
Timbeck2 said:
Do you have to get that calibrated regularly? It's cool and for someone like yourself that does this for a living, its perfect but at $80 for a dedicated torque wrench...
Click to expand...
It would need recalibrating to stay legal. If a shop has approved procedures it could just be set using a calibrated wrench and a homemade adapter to fit between the filter wrench and calibrated wrench. Accuracy isn't all that big a deal here; it just needs to fall within 16-18 ft-lb. There's a cap on the end of the handle that comes off and exposes a screw for resetting.
 
timwinters said:
That's what I always used.

and, admittedly, I've never torqued an oil filter in my life. Cars, trucks, tractors, mowers, airplanes...Nope!

I just always tighten them till they feel right, but I have about 45 years of experience doing so...

never had a problem with removal unless it was a seldom used piece of equipment that hadn't seen an oil change in multiple years.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I use a glove with rubber numbers, and snug it up. Never lost one.
 
I had so much trouble getting the $%#&%!!! oil filter off last time I did an oil change that I pounded a chisel into the thing and used the chisel to turn. Made a mess, but it go the thing out.
 
I use a smear of oil on the seal (Champion filter); never had an issue. Always Guttenteit when removed, but never stuck.
 
Makes me glad that:

1. Oil changes and the like for the club planes are not in my job description.
2. Oil and filter changes for my cars are done by Jiffy Lube. I gave up dealing with the mess in the driveway decades ago.

That reminds me that the Jeep Wrangler really ought to go in for an oil change. It's been a number of years. OK based on miles, not OK based on time. Just don't drive it much these days.
 
I’ve used two Tempest filters every oil change the past several years. I put the thin layer of DC-4...evidentially just because. I’ll have to read it next time. I use the oil filter torque wrench similar to what @Dan Thomas posted above. Thought it was by Tempest sold at Spruce? Never had any issues. While I am a Tempest fan, I think it probably falls into the Coke vs Pepsi category :)
 
kgruber said:
not supposed to lube the new filters
Click to expand...

:yeahthat:

If you read the instructions for Tempest filters (they're either on or in the box, or on the filter itself), they say to not lubricate the gasket. They go on dry. Most people, myself included, are in the habit of wetting their finger with some oil and giving the gasket a smear. I was shocked when I saw that these filters go on dry.

When the filter was changed, do you know of the person who installed it lubed the gasket?

Next time, put it on dry. I'll bet it comes off much easier.

HTH. YMMV.
 
I just went to Tempest's website. They tout a dry lubricant. What they don't say is when it gets lubed accidentally, it forms a crazy-tight bond.

Spin EZ® Solid Lubricant – Tempest Spin EZ oil filter’s proprietary solid lubricant allows for easy removal of the filter. Unlike oil, grease or DC4 compound that leave the filter seemingly “bonded” to the engines mount pad, making it nearly impossible to remove, our Spin EZ solid lubricant wont extrude or squirt out from under the seal; allowing for removal without a fight.

The attached screen shot is from a Continental Service Letter. It discusses Tempest oil filters. Note the section inside the red box.

tempest filter.jpg
 
Last edited:
This thread is about Tempest.
It’s been said many times; Tempest’s new filters are pre-lubed and it is wrong to put oil or DC or anything else on the gasket.
 
What about Tempest's older filters? The non-Tempest Spin EZ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top