Semi NA- Pirep Rustoleum floor epoxy after a year

Cap'n Jack

Final Approach
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Cap'n Jack
I applied the Rustoleum floor epoxy to my garage roughly a year ago. Since questions about this occasionally arise, I thought I'd share my experience over a year.

It is still on the floor- no blisters or chips. It cleans up easily. Lincoln, NE uses the filthiest salt or sand I've seen anywhere in the winter. The cars pick it up and despite my best efforts to kick it off before pulling into the garage it still leaves messy black deposits. I mopped it twice this winter. I cleaned the floor again today- before & after pix are posted. I used a wet vac to pick up the water this time to remove any accumulation in the expansion joints.

Apply the stuff according to the directions and it seems to hold up just fine. I suggest adding the anti-skid ($5/can extra).

It strikes me as making a good floor covering for a hangar
 

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> Apply the stuff according to the directions and it seems to hold up just fine.
> I suggest adding the anti-skid ($5/can extra).

Note that the anti-skid stuff can make the floor just a little harder to sweep
(at least that's the case with my basement floor).
 
Bob- I thought the same thing- that it would be harder to sweep. I don't notice that since I mop or vacuum it.

If I were finishing an interior floor, I'd leave the non-skid out. A garage has water dripping off cars from rain or snow and it would be plenty slick otherwise.
 
Captain Jack & Troy... are you still happy with the RustOleum Epoxy? I just purchased a hangar with a bare concrete floor, and plan on putting down an epoxy paint coating before moving the plane into the hangar.

From your reviews and a few others on the internet, the RustOleum seems to be a good choice.
 
Captain Jack & Troy... are you still happy with the RustOleum Epoxy? I just purchased a hangar with a bare concrete floor, and plan on putting down an epoxy paint coating before moving the plane into the hangar.

From your reviews and a few others on the internet, the RustOleum seems to be a good choice.

I'm still happy with it.

Like any paint product, the surface prep is what takes the time, but the instructions are easy to follow. The ascorbic acid prep will generate some kind of powder (small sand grains and whatever isn't acid soluble in the concrete) and this will need to be washed off well- if this is left behind, I can imagine that the epoxy will stick to the powder and not adhere to the floor surface- any paint product will peel if this happens. After the floor dries from the prep, see if any powder gets kicked up by a broom- if so, rinse again.

It's summer- mind the temperature and working times for the epoxy.
 
I ended up painting the hangar floor with RustOleum Garage Floor Epoxy. So far, I really like the results. We will see how well it holds up...

For those considering, the same... It was not exactly trivial to paint the floor. but it is definitely do-able with about 10-12 hrs of work.

First, I swept and vaccumed the floor several times (~2hrs), removing what dirt I could... Then, I wanted to pressure wash the hangar floor... Unfortunately, we do not have water at the hangar, but there is water at the airport... so I rigged a 35 gallon water tank in a pickup truck and connected it to a ~3gpm farm/irrigation-sprayer pump from Farm and Fleet. The output of the pump was connected to a gas powered pressure washer.

I washed the metal walls of the hangar (quite a few cobwebs) and then pressure washed the floor twice. Next was degrease-ing using Behr concrete degreaser. I applied the degreaser in very strong quantities directly to oil stained areas, and scrubbed like mad. I then applied a weaker solution of degreaser to the entier floor, and followed by 2 more pressure washes and a squeegee dry. The degreaser did a good job of lifting the old oil and 5606 hydraulic stains in the hangar.

Next was etching the concrete. I used the dry/powder acid mix that comes with the RustOleum concrete, and mixed it with water in a 5 gallon bucket. I then spread the etch using a mop, and scrubbed it into the concrete. Again, it was pressure washed clean twice, and squeegee'd dry.

The pressure washing, degreasing and etching took about 8hrs, working almost non-stop. The time would have been about 2 hrs less if I had access to water at the hangar.

I then left the hangar to dry for about 7 days. Probably overkill, but we had several high humidity days, so I wanted to make sure that all the moisture had left the concrete. A good test for this is to place a 2ft x 2ft square of clear plastic down on the concrete with duct tape. If the plastic is dry after 24 hrs, then the concrete is dry.

The hangar is about 1000sqft and required ~4 gallons of exoxy mix... which was 2 'jumbo kits' of 2 gallons each, plus a single gallon kit. I mixed all the color tint together into a single 5 gallong bucket and then mixed all the hardener into the same 5 gallon bucket. This helped ensure uniformity in the paint color. It was about 80 degrees when the epoxy paint was applied, which meant less than 1.5 hrs from mixing the paint until it became unworkable. I drafted my brother-in-law to help with the painting, and we were able to finish in about 1.75 hrs. The paint was starting to thicken during the last section, but still seemed to adhere well.

We used a brush to edge the floor, and then backrolled with the roller. For the bulk of the floor, we worked in ~5x5ft sections, generously applying paint, and upon completion of a few 5x5 sections... sprinkled handfuls of the colored sprinkles that came with the kit by grabbing a handful and throwing it violently towards the area.

I then waited 7 days to move materials back into the hangar, and 10 days to move the plane. That is probably excessive, but I was paranoid about hot tires lifting the paint before it had fully adhered to the concrete.

End results can be seen in the photos attached. For those considering doing this to their hangar... I would definitely go for the sprinkles. They add a tiny bit of traction to the floor which is a bit slick (but not excessively so) when wet. Also, the sprinkles do a remarkable job of covering up the imperfections in the concrete finish, cracks, and roller/back-roller marks in the paint.

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Captain Jack & Troy... are you still happy with the RustOleum Epoxy? I just purchased a hangar with a bare concrete floor, and plan on putting down an epoxy paint coating before moving the plane into the hangar.

From your reviews and a few others on the internet, the RustOleum seems to be a good choice.
 
That looks really nice. I'll do that to my basement if I can ever get all the junk out of it.
 
I ended up painting the hangar floor with RustOleum Garage Floor Epoxy. So far, I really like the results. We will see how well it holds up...

Very nice. To answer the quoted question at the end of your post, yes, our Rustoleum floor is still holding up well, no peeling or anything.
 
They did an application of an epoxy floor in a huge garage on "Ask This Old House" - with a pro - who did pretty much what you did and not as thoroughly as you:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047070,00.html

My only comment I might have shop-vacuumed it really well again after the week of drying to get up any dust that settled during that time.
 
Nice. I plan on doing this in the garage of the house that I'll hopefully close on someday.
 
Nice. I plan on doing this in the garage of the house that I'll hopefully close on someday.

Do it, Jesse! Easy weekend project, really REALLY dresses up the garage for a couple hundred bucks and some elbow grease.
 
Nice. I plan on doing this in the garage of the house that I'll hopefully close on someday.

Do it, Jesse! Easy weekend project, really REALLY dresses up the garage for a couple hundred bucks and some elbow grease.
+1...if possible, do it before you get stuff moved into it. It makes the job a lot easier. I got the stuff on sale at Menards and spent $120 but my garage looks bigger than yours.
 
They did an application of an epoxy floor in a huge garage on "Ask This Old House" - with a pro - who did pretty much what you did and not as thoroughly as you:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047070,00.html

My only comment I might have shop-vacuumed it really well again after the week of drying to get up any dust that settled during that time.

I suspect that any residual dust would simple be incorporated into the coating with little or no noticeable side effects.
 
Sure. I already had some of the materials, so I can give a rough number on those...

-35 gallon water tank ($75)
-3gpm pump ($75)
-3 rollers $10
-2 paint trays ($10)
-1 edging brush ($5)
-1 gallon behr concrete degreaser (? ~$10)
-1 scrubber attachment ($7)

RustOleum 2-part garage epoxy paint/floor covering:
(2) x extra large kits (2 gallon) $99 each
(1) x (1 gallon) $70

Last - make sure you use the 2-part epoxy. I have used the 1-part epoxy on a basement floor (previously) and was not happy with the results. It did not adhere very well.

Nathan,

Do you know what you spent on all the material?
 
Update. After 4 months, I am still very happy with the finish in the hangar. It shows no signs of wear, and still looks brand new. Cool. Soon, we'll see how it holds up to the winter's snow and ice melter chemicals.

Anyway, I liked the result in the hangar so much that I decided to paint the garage floor at home. The garage floor is much older than the hangar. (I believe the slab dates from the 50s or 60s). It had quite a few cracks, which I patched using RustOleum's EpoxyShield concrete patch. The epoxy concrete patch worked well, covered and filled the cracks nicely, but is expensive... about $20 per ~pint kit. Each kit is enough to do about 15 feet of a large crack. I think if time wasn't an issue, it would be much more cost effective to use a latex/concrete based patch and let it dry for a week before painting.

Anyway, I let the concrete patch dry for about 10 hours, and then painted the floor. The garage floor was noticeably more porous than the hangar, and required substantially more paint per sqft. The garage required about 2 gallons of paint for the ~375 sqft area (187sqft of coverage per gallon). In contrast, the hangar is around 1100 sqft, and required just over 4 gallons of paint, which worked out to about 250sqft of coverage per gallon.

I thought I'd post this info here in case anyone references it for their own garage or hangar work. I think the data is important for 2 reasons.

1. Cost. The reduced coverage would have cost almost 2 more gallons for an area the size of the hangar.

2. It is a good idea to buy more of this paint than you need, and then return it if you do not use it. I ended up leaving the workshop area of the garage unpainted since the 2 gallons I had only covered the stall area. It would have been really nice to have a 3rd gallon so that I could have finished the project last night. There is a bit of a tradeoff to this approach. Ideally, the paint base should be blended together prior to mixing with the epoxy hardener. If not, the color match between the different cans may not be perfect.

After checking the garage this morning, I am happy with the result. The product looks almost as good as the hangar... which is a dramatic improvement over how the garage floor looked previously.

Also, I will comment again that the sprinkles are (almost) a required portion of the paint process. They do a great job to blend/hide the imperfections (pits, cracks, scratches) in the concrete surface. I thought this was important for the hangar floor, but it turned out to be critical for the garage floor.
 
I've been thinking about doing it with my garage floor (once it warms up). I'm really curious how resistive to scratching it is though. For example, my snow blower will scrape some of the cement as I position it (have to hav ethe front down to move the rear wheels close to the wall).
 
I've been thinking about doing it with my garage floor (once it warms up). I'm really curious how resistive to scratching it is though. For example, my snow blower will scrape some of the cement as I position it (have to hav ethe front down to move the rear wheels close to the wall).

If you are really concerned, why not use a small pad or mat under the snowblower?

fwiw - the rustoleum floor expoxy I put on my basement floor in early 2008 still looks like new. However, it doesn't get a lot of traffic.
 
I've been thinking about doing it with my garage floor (once it warms up). I'm really curious how resistive to scratching it is though. For example, my snow blower will scrape some of the cement as I position it (have to hav ethe front down to move the rear wheels close to the wall).[/quote]

Sounds like you need a bigger garage already if you are sliding things into position :D
 
If you are really concerned, why not use a small pad or mat under the snowblower?

fwiw - the rustoleum floor expoxy I put on my basement floor in early 2008 still looks like new. However, it doesn't get a lot of traffic.
Oh I could -- but I'd hate to have to be paranoid about putting pads down before I did anything that could potentially scratch it.
 
Sounds like you need a bigger garage already if you are sliding things into position :D
Snow blowers don't really maneuver that well. It's the only way to get it flat against a wall.

As far as the size of a garage -- well -- you'll always want a bigger one.
 
I've been thinking about doing it with my garage floor (once it warms up). I'm really curious how resistive to scratching it is though. For example, my snow blower will scrape some of the cement as I position it (have to hav ethe front down to move the rear wheels close to the wall).
Mine still looks good after menuvering snowblowers, lawnmowers, and cars on it It will be two or three winter seasons this winter. I slide things up to the wall (not the cars obviously)- the epoxy stands up to it ok.

If the floor is rough, you can skip the anti-skid I suggested in my original post.
 
If the floor is rough, you can skip the anti-skid I suggested in my original post.

Note that the anti-skid stuff makes it a little harder to sweep the floor.
 
Note that the anti-skid stuff makes it a little harder to sweep the floor.
Only slightly...I do mop the floor to get the salt and other junk up in winter.

The non-skid is needed IMO on a smooth garage floor since the epoxy paint gets slick when wet. The non-skid gives boots and shoes enough grip that it isn't dangerous.
 
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