Rear Windshield Replacement Cessna 152

2nd505th

2nd505th

Pre-takeoff checklist
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2nd505th
I want to replace my rear windshield on a 152. I'm imagining a mechanic will charge 10 hrs labor or so. But looking at the service manual it looks like all you have to to do is remove the center strip and only drill out the rivets on the lower outside window retainer. The window should then come out?

Guessing you need to use a Dremel to trim and some type of rubber channeling and sealant. Has anyone done this and can offer advice? The front windshield looks like a project I would not want to tackle but this looks possible. I just don't want to get into the middle of it and wish I had not started.
 
FARs permit window ( not windshield ) replacement as preventative maintenance that the Owner/ Operator is permitted to do. I commend you for reaching out for advice prior to launch.
You will want to brush up on riveting installation and removal skills. Can you identify the current rivets ? You get zero points if you make the hole larger.

Will you go with solids? Blind ( Cherry-max) or screw?

I’m not a fan of RTV as a sealant. You?
 
I’ve done the rear window on a 172. Guessing it’s similar to the 152. I replaced all the windows actually. It’s been a while but I do remember that one being a challenge. With a helper it took us about 48 hours for all the windows. We knocked it out in two back to back weekends pulling 12 hour days.
Both of us were comfortable with rivet work prior to starting. We went with solid rivets everywhere possible. The results were amazing. Definitely worth the effort to tackle the job.
 
2nd505th said:
I want to replace my rear windshield on a 152. I'm imagining a mechanic will charge 10 hrs labor or so. But looking at the service manual it looks like all you have to to do is remove the center strip and only drill out the rivets on the lower outside window retainer. The window should then come out?

Guessing you need to use a Dremel to trim and some type of rubber channeling and sealant. Has anyone done this and can offer advice? The front windshield looks like a project I would not want to tackle but this looks possible. I just don't want to get into the middle of it and wish I had not started.
Click to expand...
Can you really look that far backwards?
 
2nd505th said:
I want to replace my rear windshield on a 152. I'm imagining a mechanic will charge 10 hrs labor or so. But looking at the service manual it looks like all you have to to do is remove the center strip and only drill out the rivets on the lower outside window retainer. The window should then come out?

Guessing you need to use a Dremel to trim and some type of rubber channeling and sealant. Has anyone done this and can offer advice? The front windshield looks like a project I would not want to tackle but this looks possible. I just don't want to get into the middle of it and wish I had not started.
Click to expand...
Have you considered just polishing the current plexiglass?
 
Does the Cessna maintenance manual have details?

#1 do not use silicone as a sealant. check the thread here on POA about replacing Piper windows.
 
murphey said:
Does the Cessna maintenance manual have details?

#1 do not use silicone as a sealant. check the thread here on POA about replacing Piper windows.
Click to expand...
I used a nice polish after considering removing mine and it worked out super clear
 
I did try to polish with a oxidation remover sandpaper and lens polish and cereakote clear sealant. It did nothing but add some light scratches. My rear window is 42 years old and is very milky. The sandpaper was 2000 3000 and 5000. Seems the whiteish fog goes all the way through.
John Pringle said:
Can you really look that far backwards?
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I don’t know but I’ve always wanted two things that are not available. A turn signal and a rear view mirror.
 
Jdm said:
I’ve done the rear window on a 172. Guessing it’s similar to the 152. I replaced all the windows actually. It’s been a while but I do remember that one being a challenge. With a helper it took us about 48 hours for all the windows. We knocked it out in two back to back weekends pulling 12 hour days.
Both of us were comfortable with rivet work prior to starting. We went with solid rivets everywhere possible. The results were amazing. Definitely worth the effort to tackle the job.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Do you recall what was particularly difficult about the rear windshield?
 
I agree with the other’s that it can probably be polished out but I wouldn’t. I’ve polished them out when you couldn’t hardly see through them. Problem is it takes a very long time and a lot of effort to remove deep scratches. When they’re as bad as you described I’d prefer to put my efforts into a replacement. It’s all about what you’re comfortable with and want at the end of the day.
I just remember it being a difficult fit and awkward location to work. Nothing terribly absurd though. Me and the buddy who helped went to A&P school together. He and I had been doing this this kind of stuff forever but mostly in the 121 capacity. We both thought it was a pain but some of that might have been bc we needed something new fuss about anyway:)
 
Jdm said:
I agree with the other’s that it can probably be polished out but I wouldn’t. I’ve polished them out when you couldn’t hardly see through them. Problem is it takes a very long time and a lot of effort to remove deep scratches. When they’re as bad as you described I’d prefer to put my efforts into a replacement. It’s all about what you’re comfortable with and want at the end of the day.
I just remember it being a difficult fit and awkward location to work. Nothing terribly absurd though. Me and the buddy who helped went to A&P school together. He and I had been doing this this kind of stuff forever but mostly in the 121 capacity. We both thought it was a pain but some of that might have been bc we needed something new fuss about anyway:)
Click to expand...
Thanks for your information. What kind of tool did you used to get the window to the correct size, trim it down? Also do you remember only needing to remove the lower strip at the bottom of the back window?
 
2nd505th said:
I want to replace my rear windshield on a 152. I'm imagining a mechanic will charge 10 hrs labor or so. But looking at the service manual it looks like all you have to to do is remove the center strip and only drill out the rivets on the lower outside window retainer. The window should then come out?
Click to expand...
Remove center strip, remove lower retaining strip, remove window, install new window, trim as needed, install felt, need 2 people to rivet the retainer back on, melt the new hole in for the center strip so it won't crack. I used a die grinder with a sanding drum for trimming. All very easy.
 
martym said:
Remove center strip, remove lower retaining strip, remove window, install new window, trim as needed, install felt, need 2 people to rivet the retainer back on, melt the new hole in for the center strip so it won't crack. I used a die grinder with a sanding drum for trimming. All very easy.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much that was very helpful.
 
martym said:
Remove center strip, remove lower retaining strip, remove window, install new window, trim as needed, install felt, need 2 people to rivet the retainer back on, melt the new hole in for the center strip so it won't crack. I used a die grinder with a sanding drum for trimming. All very easy.
Click to expand...
One other question, the service manual calls for isocryl 5603 at the bottom edge for sealing. May be some type of tape or u-channel - don't know. Manual is old and part does not appear available. What did you use?
 
I think it says Apply Isocryl 5603 to all edges of the winshield and under the retainer. That's in addition to felt. The glass manufacturer usually supplied enough felt to do the job. I don't use it. I use proseal in the gap when the job is done.
 
2nd505th said:
What kind of tool did you used to get the window to the correct size, trim it down? Also do you remember only needing to remove the lower strip at the bottom of the back window?
Click to expand...

Die grinder with cutoff wheel and sanding disk, also for the die grinder.
I’m looking at it now. Definitely lower strip only.
 
OP Apologies if you know this stuff already; but you did ask for input.I have no idea of what facilities you have.

It would seem that the proper size Cleco (temporary sheet metal fastener)

and Cherry max rivets would help the process.
 
Magman said:
OP Apologies if you know this stuff already; but you did ask for input.I have no idea of what facilities you have.

It would seem that the proper size Cleco (temporary sheet metal fastener)

and Cherry max rivets would help the process.
Click to expand...
Thank you I will definitely look into that. No this information definitely helps.
martym said:
I think it says Apply Isocryl 5603 to all edges of the winshield and under the retainer. That's in addition to felt. The glass manufacturer usually supplied enough felt to do the job. I don't use it. I use proseal in the gap when the job is done.
Click to expand...
I’m guessing the pro seal sealer is something to use along the edge of the window once the job is complete for waterproofing purposes is that correct?
 
Magman said:
FARs permit window ( not windshield ) replacement as preventative maintenance that the Owner/ Operator is permitted to do. I commend you for reaching out for advice prior to launch.
You will want to brush up on riveting installation and removal skills. Can you identify the current rivets ? You get zero points if you make the hole larger.

Will you go with solids? Blind ( Cherry-max) or screw?

I’m not a fan of RTV as a sealant. You?
Click to expand...
replacing the rear window of a cessna is not covered under appendix a
(13) Replacing side windows where that work does not interfere with the structure or any operating system such as controls, electrical equipment, etc.
note: side windows, and drilling out rivets falls under interfering with the structure. by all means do it, but do it under the supervision of a A&P and get the proper sign offs done.
 
Use the Cessna maintenance manual. If it calls for felt tape around the edges, use felt tape. Isocryl 5603 is a sealant tape. Available from Textron, which owns Cessna. Cessna dealers should be able to get it. https://aeroval.com/ref/1148607/5603/

Don't go bonding that window in with PRC or RTV. Use what the manual specifies. It needs to be able to move in there a bit. That area of the fuselage flexes under yaw loads from the fin and rudder, and if the window is bonded in it will try to resist that flexing and will crack. The fuselage bulkhead under that window should be checked closely for cracks due to that flexing. The 150 had a problem with that. Cracks need to be properly repaired, and that isn't an owner-maintenance thing.

Milkiness can be caused by using cleaners with ammonia in them. Don't do that. No Windex. Use a cleaner intended for acrylics. Using household stuff is false economy. If nothing else, mild soap and water will clean it safely.
 
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Keep the old window for a reference. If you have access to a Cessna 100 series maintenance manual see what they call out for a sealant. I personally think ppg pro-seal or something similar works the best. Always use solid rivets when possible because they hold a lot better, and are not as much of a pain as cherry- max are.
 
whatever you do, don't use $%# cherry max rivets ! !
 
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