Tom-D
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Tom-D
For the reason I posted it is.not even the same comparison......not even close.
If you are going to eavesdrop pay attention.
For the reason I posted it is.not even the same comparison......not even close.
no....you're wrong, Tom.For the reason I posted it is.
If you are going to eavesdrop pay attention.
Well every one is saying it is cheaper to own a E/AB. my point is it isn't.Of course there isn't. In a word, duh. But your point is pretty meaningless because extremely few people select a model of airplane to buy based simply on the number of seats. Most if not all 4 place kits available today are FAR cheaper to build or purchase built than any certified 4-place aircraft of similar age and performance. So if your answer to that is 'yeah but you can buy a '59 Pacer for $35k so they're cheaper...' well that's a pretty weak argument IMO because the guy that's considering an RV10 build or purchase ain't in the market for a Pacer.
You can have your opinion.no....you're wrong, Tom.
However, getting an A&P as an air force maintainer is essentially free. All I would need to do is get signed off on jobs in a variety of other fields (which can be done on the job), study for the A&P, take a permissive TDY to take a 2 week crash course, then final test. That crash course can be paid for via military benefits. Which means before I leave my current base, I could acquire an A&P license. I've also heard it's relatively easy for engine mechanics like myself compared to other shops, since propulsion makes up about half of what is needed to get one.
Anyway, I've been trying to do some research on the most cost effective method of purchasing and operating a private aircraft. I've been thinking about possibly getting an old, mid or high time Cessna 150 or similar aircraft, due to the very low initial cost. However, obviously these machines will be more maintenance intensive, espescially if they require something like an engine overhaul right off the bat. I've found resources on aproximate cost breakdowns of aircraft like this, however maintenance is basically lumped into one big cost.
So my question is, when I get certified as an A&P, what kind of cost reductions could I expect if I were to work on my own aircraft? I understand parts would still be a cost to consider, but the labor costs would be essentially eliminated. It would be my own time and effort. Does anybody here have knowledge on the cost breakdown of light aircraft maintenance?
Also, does anybody here have experience both owning and maintaining their own aircraft? Are pilots even allowed to be their own A&Ps, or is that regulated due to concern over conflict of interest?
Ugghhh. Fine. In most cases, when comparing planes of similar performance and mission, EAB tend to cost less to own and fly than certified. Happy now?Well every one is saying it is cheaper to own a E/AB. my point is it isn't.
And again this completely ignores many other factors such as performance and mission. If I just wanted to get in the air as dirt cheap as possible, powered parachutes can be had for a song.In order to get into any aircraft the purchase price must be considered. In these days it is a dam poor E/AB that can be bought for what a 150 can be.
This is just flat out wrong.And to add you can't buy E/AB parts for less than you can buy Certified parts for. Simply because a Lycoming part is still a Lycoming part. Radios the same thing, appliances same, a Cleveland brake is still a Cleveland brake.
Ugghhh. Fine. In most cases, when comparing planes of similar performance and mission, EAB tend to cost less to own and fly than certified. Happy now?
And again this completely ignores many other factors such as performance and mission. If I just wanted to get in the air as dirt cheap as possible, powered parachutes can be had for a song.
This is just flat out wrong.
Well you don't get the SEI if your CFETP tasks don't get signed off. All the DD-214 lists is the SEI and the title thereof, not specific tasks. I guess it wouldn't hurt to bring your 623 to the FSDO for backup but I doubt it would help since it isn't listed in their list of what it takes to get the sign off to take the test.
FYI: the way the military handles documenting experience for an A&P has changed dramatically in the last 10 years. If he has the opportunity to get his A&P while in service NOW he will be light years ahead. If he waits till he's out he has a 50/50 chance of getting his authorization tickets to attend Bakers or worse. As I stated earlier, he should finish his A&P now if what he says is true and can obtain it at his current assignment. The military currently uses off-the-shelf TC'd aircraft and they have paths to getting an A&P while serving.I'm not a veteran so I can't tell you about this first hand but you can use your military experience to qualify.
There are more parts on a plane than just cylinders. Do you go to NAPA to buy alternators for your customers Bonanza?find me a cylinder for a Lycoming Engine that isn't certified and prices as a Lycoming cylinder. or are you going to run junk.?
when you compare a certified aircraft to a E/AB in the same seating category like you wanted, you are limited to the cheaper portion of the certified market. you are simply not going to find a E/AB in the same dollar range. So the E/AB is going to cost you more to start with, and the operation of them will not be any significantly less, tires are tires, fuel is fuel, parts are still a fixed price.
If you believe the parts issue isn't true, find me a cylinder for a Lycoming Engine that isn't certified and prices as a Lycoming cylinder. or are you going to run junk.?
Well every one is saying it is cheaper to own a E/AB. my point is it isn't.
In order to get into any aircraft the purchase price must be considered. In these days it is a dam poor E/AB that can be bought for what a 150 can be.
And to add you can't buy E/AB parts for less than you can buy Certified parts for. Simply because a Lycoming part is still a Lycoming part. Radios the same thing, appliances same, a Cleveland brake is still a Cleveland brake.
Show me those parts. parts to build a 0-360 for example are either build by superior or Lycoming. and they are not cheap.That "Lycoming" engine might be built with non "certified" aftermarket parts that are less expensive and/or better quality.
All else being equal, certified vs EAB doesn't make a difference as far as building time goes. Hours are hours. Both can be operated IFR if appropriately equipped and certified. Both can be used for training and checkrides if they otherwise meet the requirements of the checkride in question.I'm not well versed in the regulations in the matter, but I assume building hours towards things like instrument rating, instructor certificate, and CPL is more feasible in a certified aircraft, yes?
No one is saying that 100% of all parts are cheaper on EAB. There are certain major parts that are going to cost no matter what. But there are lots of parts options available to the owner of an EAB that are not available to the owner of a Cessna.Show me those parts. parts to build a 0-360 for example are either build by superior or Lycoming. and they are not cheap.
Well yes they are..they go under the names like minor alterations, major alterations and STCs.No one is saying that 100% of all parts are cheaper on EAB. There are certain major parts that are going to cost no matter what. But there are lots of parts options available to the owner of an EAB that are not available to the owner of a Cessna.
My wife has had a 150 for about 10 years now. Other than routine oil changes and such the only maintenance its needed is a vacuum pump, a compass, and a couple sets of tires. Annuals run between $250-400 depending on my IA's mood. That's with me stripping the interior, inspection plates, etc.Have you ever maintained one? I've maintained several (I'm both a pilot and mechanic, and used them as a flight instructor as well). They are little cheaper than a Lyc-powered 172. That O-200 usually needed valve work at mid-time, while our O-320's in the 172s went all the way to TBO without ever pulling the cylinders. There are places that things crack in the 150, as well. And the older ones with the flat-leaf gear legs suffer corrosion pitting that weakens that shot-peened surface so it cracks and fails, and legs are pretty hard to find now. Most are corroded. And just try finding a new fuel shutoff valve...
Yeah. I started out in PLSC (PACAF Logistics Support Center, don't know if that's a thing anymore there.) in-shop working on J-79s. Then went to the F-110 in-shop then went to test cell.
Fortitude is only required if you don't like the job. There are A&P's that actually like what they do, no fortitude required. Likewise, I have known more than a few professional pilots who did not enjoy the work they did one bit and could not get out of bed in the morning without a healthy cup of fortitude. Different strokes and all that.I'm not saying any of this to disrespect those who have made a career of maintenance, like it's a bad choice in career. Rather, I respect people who stick with it for their fortitude.
But that piece of paper is worth its weight in gold. We all start with zip experience. If you have the opportunity, pursue the A&P while in the service. I can't repeat that enough. Once out it will cost you time (30 months) to get it as it is increasing rare for someone to leave the service with their FAA A&P Test Authorization slips.I realize there's a world of difference between owning a piece of paper and actually having the knowhow.
And don't sell your A&P certificate short. A person with an A&P enjoys more recognition...and money...OUTSIDE the aviation industry than in. There are a number of non-aviation industries that hire only A&Ps like dental equipment mfg'rs, directional drilling companies, and other specialized entities. The reason: an A&P is one of the few certifications that requires a certain level of A-Z of skill sets in order to pass. Get your A&P now then decide what you want to do with it. It doesn't expire after you get it.Honestly... No.
Show me a E/AB 4 place that can be built for less than you can buy a Certified 4 place for.
Parts are parts you will pay as much for a starter for A Experimental as you will a certified.
Cleveland brake set, probably more.
so...how much gas do you need to save to break even with certified?
Some STC's cost money. A lot more than just the components themselves. An E-AB doesn't need to use the STC.Well yes they are..they go under the names like minor alterations, major alterations and STCs.
Want to get rid of the expensive alternator. lots of after market ones available STCed and ready to go.
Yes, I know that can be done. Lapping it with very fine valve grinding compound works, too. But in the world of aviation, where the regs require that repairs be done in accordance with manufacturer's instructions or equivalent, or in accordance with standard practices, it gets sketchy. The valve works fine, but if it failed and caused an accident it wouldn't clear the court case.The fuel valve was leaking about 5 years ago so I chucked it in the lathe, took a light skim cut to clean up the taper, then polished it. It's fine now.
You can't just convert a certified airplane into an experimental.To go even cheaper and slower, I also had this idea of finding a super cub project, buying it sans engine and prop, and making it into an experimental by slapping a new aerovee in with the option to turbo it later on.