PoA Jet Ski Project

asechrest

asechrest

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asechrest
I was recently forced (against my will) to purchase a Jet Ski, thanks to this thread about watercraft. I've been wanting to take on an engine project for some time because I am decidedly clueless when it comes to mechanical stuff and I want to learn. The goal here is mostly educational. Originally I thought maybe I would pick up a broken riding mower and work on that. But a Jet Ski sounded lots more fun. So after some good advice from lots of folks, including by PM (thanks Doc), I found one for sale near my house and I bought it. What I thought I'd do is post my progress to this thread for comments and advice. In return, any POA member who visits my areas of Florida (Tampa Bay or Ft. Lauderdale), gets free jet ski or airplane rides. :D

Here's what I know about it:

In the package: Got it for $500 out the door. For that I got a 1995 Continental trailer in very good condition, a 2-inch trailer hitch ball mount with 1-7/8" ball, a 1995 Kawasaki 900 zxi Jet Ski, the title, the original user's manual, a life vest, an anchor, a fire extinguisher, a quick-connect flush hose, three new-in-box OE spark plugs, a half bottle of Kawasaki 2-cycle engine oil, and shop receipts from some preventive maintenance in 2009.

What I know about this ski: It's in good cosmetic condition. Some of the compartment seals could use replacing (like around the steering column and the bow storage). There's a bit of paint chipping in the right-side foot well. It hasn't been used in ~ 2 years and was stored outside next to the seller's house. There was a very small amount of standing water in the bottom of the engine compartment which I attribute to rainwater coming in around some of the aging compartment seals. I shined a flashlight into the impeller intake(?) and then looked through the back of the jet pump. I could see a slight bit of light peeking out around all or most of the impeller blades. It cranks but won't start. The seller hooked a power supply up to it and I watched the drive shaft and impeller spin while he cranked it. The seller said the no start problem was diagnosed by a jet ski mechanic as a faulty starter relay. My understanding is that this is preventing power from coming through the e-box to other stuff like the gauges and spark plugs. I have no knowledge of whether this is actually the problem. I purchased as-is.

--

What I've done so far: I took some basic photos of the exterior and engine compartment (attached). I washed the exterior and opened up the engine compartment to dry out. I ordered a PDF version of the factory service manual but the engine photos used in the manual are of very poor quality, so I may order a hard copy of the manual. I've done a fair bit of reading about this Jet Ski vintage and the engine.

I've never done a project like this of any kind. I am open to any and all suggestions. Here's the way I figured I'd start:

  1. I'll siphon out the 2-year old gas and oil
  2. I'll take out the e-box and, assuming it hasn't been removed, I'll get access to the supposedly faulty relay
  3. The service manual shows me how to test the relay using a multimeter so I'll do so and see if the part is truly faulty
  4. If it's faulty, I'll order the replacement part, install and put the ebox back in
  5. Put in new gas and oil
  6. Try to start her up

If she starts, great, the seller told the truth and I know what the problem is/was. I'll probably then move onto an engine teardown to inspect everything, learn how it works, and rebuild the items that probably should be rebuilt anyway.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions for a starting point for a complete beginner with both engines and jet skis?

Thanks.
 

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Before you break out the chrome plated screwdrivers, get thee on the Google machine to search for and start participating in PWC forums. Learn as much as you can about that specific model by learning from others experiences and mistakes. These things are 2-stroke and are not from this world...I speak as a 4-stroke guy that owns a bunch of them. Still keeping the 89 Yamaha Wave Jammer 500 alive so the grandkids can ride it someday as well as my old 200 Merc outboard on a 17' hot boat. We've worn out a couple of SeaDoos over the years and I was the appointed maintenance and repair officer for them all, as well as funding manager, and logistics coordinator (I tow them to the ramp & back and pay for all fuel and insurance).

Oh, BTW, check the shape of fuel lines and the tank. That's where some of my problems started...fuel quality and sediment. NO ETHANOL FUEL, too. Causes too much trouble with fuel systems over time...if the previous owner left 10% ethanol fuel in it over the winters, there may already be some problems since it's a 95 model. Looks pretty clean by the photos, tho. Considering the environment, it's downright tidy. Just remember to flush/flush/flush after use....even in fresh water. It makes a difference in cooling to keep the mud out of the nooks and crannies in the water jacket. It's a little ditch pump after all, and it sucks mud etc along with the water.

I'll bet if you read a bit further, you'll find someone that's already been thru the relay thing, if that's what it is. Sometimes it is a complete failure of the electronic ignition, too. Those boxes ain't cheap (BTDT). And once you get it running, and I know you will, I'd seriously not want to crack it open unless you find something else wrong that leads you into the block. It'll probably run just fine and not need anything else (I'm optimistic....). The cost of overhauling it may only teach you more than you ever wanted to know, but not gain you anything in the 'runs better' department.


Again, get on a few appropriate forums and start reading...alot...then start asking questions....much as you have done here. (Just because there's 'jet' in the name doesn't mean a Pilot's discussion forum will be all that helpful!)
 
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Thanks, Dave, and advice noted! I've been reading on PWCToday and GreenHulk quite a bit.

Your comment about not cracking it open if the starter relay fixes it is interesting. If I did that, in some respects I'd feel like I let myself down, since educating myself about the engine is part of my primary goal. (On the other hand, if that fixed it and I truly chose not to crack it open, I bet I could flip it for $1k profit?) Does it not also make sense to go ahead and rebuild the carbs, convert to pre-mix, and take a look at the pistons and cylinders, if nothing else but for longevity of my enjoyment after it's fixed?
 
asechrest said:
Thanks, Dave, and advice noted! I've been reading on PWCToday and GreenHulk quite a bit.

Your comment about not cracking it open if the starter relay fixes it is interesting. If I did that, in some respects I'd feel like I let myself down, since educating myself about the engine is part of my primary goal. (On the other hand, if that fixed it and I truly chose not to crack it open, I bet I could flip it for $1k profit?) Does it not also make sense to go ahead and rebuild the carbs, convert to pre-mix, and take a look at the pistons and cylinders, if nothing else but for longevity of my enjoyment after it's fixed?
Click to expand...

When I start a project like this I never tear into anything like rebuilding the cards etc. Every change you make confuses diagnostics. I would do as you suggested prior change all the fluids, first. Then focus on fuel, air, ignition, and compression. Try to get it running and work from there.

Hypothetically, if you get the ski running good without major work. Then sell it immediately and take what money you can make on it. It's really easy to spend a lot of money and time and be upside-down in it at the end.
 
Since you are already on PWC Today and Green Hulk, I would only add maybe joining the AWA. American Watercraft Association. They are like the AOPA, or NRA, trying desperately to keep America's waterways open to PWCs. Sadly (to me anyway) we PWC lovers are much like airplane lovers and we are against the general consensus. More and more water ways are closed to PWC operation every year. Always in the name of safety and ecology.

It is well known that we PWC operators club baby seals, rape the sea floor, dump at least a quart of oil wherever we go and end our days in a fiery crash with a peaceful aluminum fishing boat with a family of four on board. :rolleyes2::mad2::(

If you want to actually use your boat after you fix it, think about it. You are 2 stroke, so you are already banned from about half of America's waterways. More to come.

On a lighter note, when you get your boat going, if you feel up for a big adventure, trailer it out here to the California Delta and I will personally put you up for a weekend adventure on your boat you will fondly remember the rest of your life. :yes:
 
Actually the first thing to break out is a #2 Phillips screwdriver, pull a plug boot, insert screwdriver, hold it within 1/4" of something metal and grounded, spin the engine and see if you get a spark. That engine needs three things to run, fuel, compression, & timed ignition. Start by checking ignition. If you have a spark, for now you can assume it's timed. With spark and still no starting, pull the plugs and put your thumb on the hole and crank. Do you get your thumb blown off? Good, that means you have compression. Does your thumb get sucked on as well? A little is normal, a lot means you have stuck reed valves, none means you have broken reed valves. Smell the air that comes out of the hole at you, does it smell like fresh gas? Does it smell like varnish? Does it not smell at all? If it smells like varnish or not at all after a two year sit, I suggest you change the fuel filter (buy 3 or 4 if you have a load of 2 year old gas, you're going to need them.) pump acetone through the fuel system and be ready to disassemble it all to clear it out after the acetone breaks everything loose. If the engine cranks and has compression, you don't have a huge project, this one will be a couple hundred dollars of servicing to get going.

Oh yeah, I prefer BelRay 2-stroke oils to everything except DragOn Snowmobile oil which had some nitro in it. I haven't see it in many years though.
 
Dav8or said:
Since you are already on PWC Today and Green Hulk, I would only add maybe joining the AWA. American Watercraft Association. They are like the AOPA, or NRA, trying desperately to keep America's waterways open to PWCs. Sadly (to me anyway) we PWC lovers are much like airplane lovers and we are against the general consensus. More and more water ways are closed to PWC operation every year. Always in the name of safety and ecology.

It is well known that we PWC operators club baby seals, rape the sea floor, dump at least a quart of oil wherever we go and end our days in a fiery crash with a peaceful aluminum fishing boat with a family of four on board. :rolleyes2::mad2::(

If you want to actually use your boat after you fix it, think about it. You are 2 stroke, so you are already banned from about half of America's waterways. More to come.

On a lighter note, when you get your boat going, if you feel up for a big adventure, trailer it out here to the California Delta and I will personally put you up for a weekend adventure on your boat you will fondly remember the rest of your life. :yes:
Click to expand...

The Delta is an excellent area to check out by ski.
 
Alexb2000 said:
When I start a project like this I never tear into anything like rebuilding the cards etc. Every change you make confuses diagnostics. I would do as you suggested prior change all the fluids, first. Then focus on fuel, air, ignition, and compression. Try to get it running and work from there.

Hypothetically, if you get the ski running good without major work. Then sell it immediately and take what money you can make on it. It's really easy to spend a lot of money and time and be upside-down in it at the end.
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Pray tell, outside of fuel, what fluids does it take?
 
Alexb2000 said:
Pray tell, doesn't the final drive have some kind of lubrication? Sea-Doo's have pump oil, I don't know about the Kawasaki's.
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Depends, sometimes there is an oil tank for the pump, but I wouldn't fill any of it until I had the engine running in case I still needed to remove it.
 
Jet skis are the biggest pita to work on there ever was. Engine is sitting in a box and none of the bolts/nuts play well with magnet. Don't drop anything.

On the plus side, the engines and systems are extremely simple.
 
Ah grasshopper, a few words of advice.

First, if it's stuck, force it, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway.

Second, any schlub can disassemble something, getting it back together and working separates the men from the boys....


I think Henning gives good advice. Start simple then work from there, except I would pursue the starter relay as you supposedly have expert advice on that. I think you will be amazed at the price of replacement parts. While certainly not rising to the expense of aircraft parts it certainly defies logic why parts are so expensive.


Good luck.
 
Don't know if those things are carbureted or fuel-injected, but if its been sitting for two years it is a good bet that fuel is having a hard time getting to the engine. Starter relays are cheap and easy, fuel systems a little less so. If they are carbs have someone else rebuild them, takes special equipment. Learned that working on a Kawasaki motorcycle engine.
 
I'd agree with not tearing into the motor unless you need to from a practical perspective. I also wouldn't tear into the carbs. The general method of diagnosis is really what is most valuable to you, so try all of that listed above, ride it for a bit, and then either sell it or keep it and maintain the thing.

If you like the thing, I'd say keep it and enjoy it. You'll still have learned something and it will break again. :)

I'm interested in the 2-stroke PWC being banned so many places, I didn't realize that. Are 4-strokes still banned just for being PWC? That's something that makes no sense to me.
 
Ok, I'll do Henning's tests tonight or tomorrow. I need to take the battery to Autozone and see if it'll take a charge (I don't have a charger). If not I need to buy a new battery. So maybe I'll do the compression and smell tests tonight, and save the spark test for tomorrow.

Dav8or: Thanks for the offer! Not sure that I could swing it, but it sounds like the trip of a lifetime.
 
I owned the same Jetski, same year, same color. The engine seized about a year after I bought it (used), I had it rebuilt and then had zero troubles with it riding it for a long time. The guy who rebuilt the engine disconnected (removed?, I forgot, it was a while ago) the oil injection pump. This required the use of pre-mix gas/oil but also ensured that the engine would never be starved of oil in the case of pump failure.
This is a very fun, quick Jetski. It has much better handling than the 3-seaters. It does consume quite a bit of fuel, I could go through a 13 gallon tankful in a matter of a few hours of hard riding.
Great fun, I miss that 'ski.
And yeah, I spent many days at the California Delta...
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I'm interested in the 2-stroke PWC being banned so many places, I didn't realize that. Are 4-strokes still banned just for being PWC? That's something that makes no sense to me.
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Yes and yes.

2 strokes are banned because they pollute the air and water. Of course there is no such restrictions on 2 stroke outboards, that would be unreasonable!! You can't ban grandpa's trusty aluminum fishing boat now can you? :rolleyes: 4 strokes are still banned because they are still jet powered watercraft. They have a shallow draft and because of the jet drive, they are known to suck up anything below them and kill it all forever!! :rolleyes: In addition, they move so fast, they could potentially hit things like seals, dolphins and whales!! Oh my!!! (Never mind that seals have no issues with us, I see them all the time and dolphins actually like to go along with us. I have no experience with whales and don't want any. They're too big and would freak me out.) :rolleyes: PWCs are a navigational hazard. It is well known that if you are out for a peaceful day on your kayak and there is a PWC in the water, you have a 140% chance of death by high speed impact that day!! They are pretty much unguided missiles looking for a target. Yikes!! :rolleyes:

Lots of hyperbole and unfounded fear involved, but that never stopped legislation before...

Regrettably, PWCs are hated by many. Many new, or occasional users of watercraft are self centered, idiot, clueless pricks. Much like some pilots that like to buzz crowds for fun, outsiders get bitter. Much like some people feel threatened when some jack wad starts blasting his AR-15 off the back porch during July 4th, or at a campground. Much like some sport bike riders do wheelies on the freeway and lane split at 70+ mph. People don't care for it much.

However, unlike guns and motorcycles, we are a small and largely non vocal group politically, so like the airplanes, it is easier to get rid of us. So ride your ski as much as you can for now and try to be as friendly as possible. Soon we will be relegated to the backyard swimming poll... assuming the insurance company OKs it.
 
Interesting to know. I did observe a pair of jetskis at the lake getting off at the ramp getting yelled at by some boaters. No idea why, I didn't see enough. I do see a number out at the lake and haven't had any problems with them so far.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Interesting to know. I did observe a pair of jetskis at the lake getting off at the ramp getting yelled at by some boaters. No idea why, I didn't see enough. I do see a number out at the lake and haven't had any problems with them so far.
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The most typical issue is the jet skis coming too close to the back of people's boats while jumping wakes. It bad form to just come in and jump wakes without asking on people you don't know, yet this happens all the time.

I've had charter guests almost eat the back of the boat getting in too close and falling into the 7' pit that's at the back of the boat when I'm pushing 7' of draft at 28 kts. You can't really yell at them for it, they're paying big bucks, I just advise them of what is likely to get them in serious trouble. While a 7' wake is pretty big, even a 2' wake if a ski gets in too close, they can get tossed into the back of your boat.
 
My Dad's response when I told him I was a jet ski owner: "Arrrgh", and "they ruin the peaceful ambiance of the flats".
 
Henning said:
The most typical issue is the jet skis coming too close to the back of people's boats while jumping wakes. It bad form to just come in and jump wakes without asking on people you don't know, yet this happens all the time.

I've had charter guests almost eat the back of the boat getting in too close and falling into the 7' pit that's at the back of the boat when I'm pushing 7' of draft at 28 kts. You can't really yell at them for it, they're paying big bucks, I just advise them of what is likely to get them in serious trouble. While a 7' wake is pretty big, even a 2' wake if a ski gets in too close, they can get tossed into the back of your boat.
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Happens all the time here as well. I don't care as long as they stay back. Since I have a wooden runabout they tend to give me a wider berth I guess.
 
flyingron said:
Happens all the time here as well. I don't care as long as they stay back. Since I have a wooden runabout they tend to give me a wider berth I guess.
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I have both, pwcs and a 27 foot bow rider. I used to pull the kids around on a tube behind the boat, most pwcs were good, but you always had one or two who would try to jump the wake about 25 feet beyond the tube, no room to turn if one of the kids fell off. So I would come about and drive straight at them. Some were really stupid, it would take a few times before they figured it out......
 
One time I was pushing a 2 up of gravel barges up the Petaluma River with about 8' of draft in a tiny channel. I push a huge bow wave ahead of me at 7kts and this ski boat towing a wake boarder kept coming at me head on and slinging the wake board guy up my bow wake. Incredibly stupid and I had to laugh. I signaled him, but not much more I can do. I did call the CG and told them what was happening in case something went wrong.
 
I had a few minutes to look at the jet ski tonight.

The electrical box has clearly been disassembled at some point. Some of the bolts holding the cover on are part-way out. This would be consistent with the supposedly faulty relay having been examined or even removed. I believe the positive (red) battery cable routes power through the electrical box, then to everything else. There are two side-by-side circular cable terminals on the port side of the e-box that nothing is connected to. They have screw holes in them. There is also a standalone length of red battery cable. I believe the length of cable connects from the battery to one terminal of the e-box, then the "rest" of the red cable (the length that leads to and is connected to the engine) connects to the other e-box terminal.

Since the spark plug wires lead directly from the e-box, without the battery cable connected to it I can't test the spark. What I did do was attempt to bypass the e-box and just hook the red cable directly to the positive battery terminal, then connect the black cable normally. I thought that this is what the seller did when he cranked the engine for me. I then tried to crank the engine, but got nothing. I might be missing something. Or it could be the battery. I've got a multimeter on order (mine was busted) and will get the battery tested and charged up, or replace it if needed.

Here's the e-box looking toward the stern:
TeCwjhA.jpg



Here are the e-box terminals:
z0C17v6.jpg



And here I'm bypassing the e-box with the red cable:
Kiqp2FF.jpg



Here I'm about to connect the black cable to the negative battery terminal:
4pYbX00.jpg
 
Um, I presume someone at some point unscrewed the big round black cap and checked the fuses inside? There is one fuse for ignition and one for the jet nozzle tilt adjust if I recall right.

I know this is a job of troubleshooting, but you may ask this guy if he has and will sell the electrical box from his part out Kaw 900.

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/boa/4668614259.html
 
There's a "trim" fuse and a "main" fuse. Both look ok visually. I'll test them when my multimeter comes in. I also have a spare trim fuse. But what I thought I was doing this evening was bypassing the entire e-box and connecting enough to at least get it to crank. No spark or gauges, sure, but at least cranking.

I'll get my battery situation worked out and then try again. Thanks for the link.
 
I own that same model PWC. It's been ran a lot during the summer months and never skips a beat. I bought it so my in laws would stop riding my Sea Doo. It hauls two real size adults pretty good. They are not fast, but not the slowest thing out there. As far as the carbs, be careful when going through them, it's a 2 stroke, they need to be correct as lean will equal a new engine.
 
On a related note, I appear to have gotten lucky on a hitch assuming the Craiglist seller comes through.

New in box hitch, fits my car, includes ball mount, for $80.
 
http://www.dsmlink.com/personal/ski/00zxi1100/elecshem.gif

This is for the 1100ZXi. Pretty sure it's the same as the 900, or will be very close.

If the starter relay is letting the engine crank, I doubt that is the issue. From what I see in there, once the safety lanyard is on, and the green button is pressed that picks the starter relay, and the high current is fed to the + side of the starter.

Doesn't appear to have anything to do with the ignition circuit. That's comprised of the Ignition switch, start safety lanyard, igniter, coils and high tension leads to plugs.

Try this: See boxed legend on print above for ref. Put the two big red wires back on the e-box where they belong. On the panel in front of the seat, locate the ignition switch. Remove the wires from the back of the switch. Locate the red and red with white trace wires. Jumper them together, and leave the other wires open circuit(not touching). Remove the spark plugs, snap them into the plug wires, and lay them on the top of the engine with the ground lug(L shaped thing) down so you can see if there is spark. Once the two red and red/white trace are jumpered, watch the spark plug ends and crank the engine. See if you get spark. Disconnect the jumpered wires. Report back results.
 
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Wiring diagram for the 900 attached. I'll update the thread when I can get back into the ski. Thanks.

Still not quite sure what I'm missing as far as emulating the seller. He connected the leads of his portable power source and cranked it a bunch of times right in front of me. I thought he connected it just like I tried to do; completely bypassing the ebox on the pos side, and connecting as typical on the neg side. He got no gauges and no spark, but he did get crank.

I think this old battery might be toast. That's my first order of biz tomorrow.
 

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Charge your battery fully and buy a $3 battery hygrometer. It will have 4 little color balls in it. Dip in and check the electrolyte level before you go buying stuff. If the engine cranks well, your battery should be good. The white and black/white trace are the ignition kill circuit. If that ignition switch is not working, it will kill the engine just like the P lead on a plane engine. This is a start. Follow the wires I told you inside the ignition switch on the print. It's the same as I sent you. Red to red/white trace is start allowed. White to black/white trace is engine kill. Jumper the red and red/white, open circuit the white and blue/white.

Diagnose -> repair or replace. Or - you can be a chimp and throw shyte at problems.

<edit: After blowing up the print a bit, I made a mistake on the lead colors. The engine kill is black/white trace not blue. Please edit the quote as well. Black/white trace is a generic ground for many circuits. Solid black is chassis ground, or sometimes called 'common' ground. When connected to the white wire leaving the ignition switch, it will stop spark. Note the legend on the print. The solid black is the set of wipers. The ignition switch is shown in the 'off' position, and the top wiper it touching BL/W > W and that goes into the igniter inside the elec box. Note that the bottom wiper shows the wiper covering the R contactor, but NOT the R/W, which inhibits the green start switch. I don't care what the switch does mechanically, I want to bypass it with my test procedure. >
 
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docmirror said:
Charge your battery fully and buy a $3 battery hygrometer. It will have 4 little color balls in it. Dip in and check the electrolyte level before you go buying stuff. If the engine cranks well, your battery should be good. The white and blue/white trace are the ignition kill circuit. If that ignition switch is not working, it will kill the engine just like the P lead on a plane engine. This is a start. Follow the wires I told you inside the ignition switch on the print. It's the same as I sent you. Red to red/white trace is start allowed. White to blue/white trace is engine kill. Jumper the red and red/white, open circuit the white and blue/white.

Diagnose -> repair or replace. Or - you can be a chimp and throw shyte at problems.

<edit: After blowing up the print a bit, I made a mistake on the lead colors. The engine kill is black/white trace not blue. Please edit the quote as well. Black/white trace is a generic ground for many circuits. Solid black is chassis ground, or sometimes called 'common' ground. When connected to the white wire leaving the ignition switch, it will stop spark. Note the legend on the print. The solid black is the set of wipers. The ignition switch is shown in the 'off' position, and the top wiper it touching BL/W > W and that goes into the igniter inside the elec box. Note that the bottom wiper shows the wiper covering the R contactor, but NOT the R/W, which inhibits the green start switch. I don't care what the switch does mechanically, I want to bypass it with my test procedure. >
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I'll shoot for the former. I'll update the thread once I do the above.
 
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Red positive battery power goes from battery to e box. Red cable goes from e box to starter. Relay in box to start.

If you want to "bypass" the relay just stick a screw driver between the two red cables on the e box and it will crank.
 
Engine cranking isn't the problem. There is no spark. I'm betting that the 'no start' and 'no spark' are related to a fault in the ignition switch. This would explain both symptoms. I don't care how he cranks the engine, it's the spark that is needed to get it to run. Once we have spark, we'll deal with crank starting. It may yet need a starter solenoid, or it may simply need a new switch. Of course you can jump the two lugs on the side of the e-box by prying the rubber seal back, but he's already got them off the e-box and tied together to do a direct crank. Problem with this is that the e-box needs 12 volt power from the batt too. So, better to put the big red wires back on the e-box where they came off so the circuitry inside the e-box has power to work. Notice the two small wires(R) coming off the big red wire from battery inside the e-box. If the e-box doesn't have the big red wire, the igniter doesn't get 12V from the reg/rectifier on the far right of the print. This is why I first had him check the fuse.
 
asechrest said:
Ok, I'll do Henning's tests tonight or tomorrow. I need to take the battery to Autozone and see if it'll take a charge (I don't have a charger). If not I need to buy a new battery. So maybe I'll do the compression and smell tests tonight, and save the spark test for tomorrow.

Dav8or: Thanks for the offer! Not sure that I could swing it, but it sounds like the trip of a lifetime.
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Get a gel cell battery. I went through what seemed like a battery a year on our Sea-Doo. Changed to gel cell and still good after five years.
 
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