Mountain Biking

SoonerAviator

SoonerAviator

Final Approach
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SoonerAviator
Anyone here into mountain biking, at least to the point of making some recommendations on entry-level bikes? I've been wanting to get into biking for a while, and I will be looking for something I can take on light/medium dirt trails in addition to a good bit of paved riding. Obviously, the majority of hardcore biking enthusiasts would say that it would require two bikes, but I'm sure a compromise can be made by getting a hardtail mountain bike and swapping tires for the intended mission, or a hybrid tire to manage the two environments. I'm not opposed to buying used, as there are plenty on CL and such. I really would like to stay under $500 if possible, but would consider a bit more if the value of components was truly substantially noticeable.

I've been looking at bikes like a new Trek Marlin and used Trek X Caliber models. Any input to others I should investigate, or possible different route altogether? The last mountain bike I owned was a Wally World 18-speed with spring-shocks on the front when I was in my early teens. I spend most of my pre-driving years on a single-speed BMX/Freestyle bike jumping ramps, riding dirt trails, and canyon wall half-pipes. So, I have very little true mountain-biking experience.

Thoughts?
 
Can't go wrong with a Trek Marlin. that is what I started on and still have. I will be upgrading sooner than later but there is nothing wrong with the bike. You don't need high end shifters, brakes, or wheel sets to start off as you will not be good enough to take advantage of them. The one thing I will say is you will want a high quality front fork shock. Look for a Marlin that somebody has upgraded or find a bike on the lower end of your budget and upgrade the fork your self. The ones that come on the Marlin is pure garbage. I would also suggest a 29er if you are at least average height. They are much faster and more comfortable on the trails.
 
Also, if you are going to do road riding make sure the bike has a front fork lockout. The Marlin's are good on the road as they have the lockout and by mountain bike standards a pretty skinny set of tires which are better on road.
 
It's going to be tough to find a decent bike under $500. I personally would stay away from full suspension - it just adds weight and cost, plus you really don't need it unless you're doing some pretty intense downhill riding. Also the big trend these days is 29 inch wheels (the road standard 700 mm) adapted for mountain bikes. I can't stand them. They are heavy, big, and make the bike generally less maneuverable. I would go with 26 inch, or no bigger than 27.5 (650 mm). The models you are looking at are pricey. Trek has an entry level bike that might suit your needs, but you might get a better value in a Specialized or Diamondback.
 
I was looking specifically at hardtails, no full-suspension stuff. I was under the impression that the 19" frame/29" wheels were suitable for someone at my height (6' even). I know Specialized has the Rockhopper models in the same range as the Marlin/XCaliber. I know Diamondback from the BMX/Freestyle bikes, but I've not investigated their mountain bike models. The fork lockout was something I found important, too. Just from a pure loss of pedaling efficiency perspective on pavement.
 
SoonerAviator said:
I was looking specifically at hardtails, no full-suspension stuff. I was under the impression that the 19" frame/29" wheels were suitable for someone at my height (6' even). I know Specialized has the Rockhopper models in the same range as the Marlin/XCaliber. I know Diamondback from the BMX/Freestyle bikes, but I've not investigated their mountain bike models. The fork lockout was something I found important, too. Just from a pure loss of pedaling efficiency perspective on pavement.
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That is exactly what I ride and am the same size. Most bike shops here do not stock 26" bikes anymore and only have the 27.5 for the shorter riders. Mine is a Gary Fisher edition Trek Marlin. The mechanical disc brakes are noisy and they do not have a lot of aftermarket pads for them. Hydraulic disc are a cheap upgrade and you can find a decent fork for $300.00 used when you start to get faster in the woods.
 
Grum.Man said:
That is exactly what I ride and am the same size. Most bike shops here do not stock 26" bikes anymore and only have the 27.5 for the shorter riders. Mine is a Gary Fisher edition Trek Marlin. The mechanical disc brakes are noisy and they do not have a lot of aftermarket pads for them. Hydraulic disc are a cheap upgrade and you can find a decent fork for $300.00 used when you start to get faster in the woods.
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That's what led me to consider something like a used X Caliber since the fork was upgraded, along with hydraulic disc brakes. I believe they also come with double-walled rims which may hold up a bit better under my 220lbs of fury, lol.


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Specialized Rockerhopper comp 29er. Thank me later :)

I absolutely love my rockhopper but mine is a 26er. Great entry level bike for starting mountain biking.
 
If you find something with a Suntour fork, they have a trade in program that makes upgrading more affordable.
 
To help with the 26er vs 29er debate...what type of terrain are you riding most? If hilly with not a lot of roots and ground obstacles Id stick with the smaller tire. The 29er rolls over things much more easily but on the down side its more tire to turn over going up hills.

I didn't read your OP fully but for $500 or under your best bet would be to go to Dicks sporting goods and get you a diamondback Axis. A step above a wal mart bike with decent components. Trek and specialized will cost your normally in the $800+ range for a entry level bike. Better to buy those at the model year change. That's what I did...I got my rockhopper for $600 with the normal price of $880. My wife got a hardrock for $350 and normal price was $500 if I remember right.
 
Having had 26" and 29", definitely go with the 29". Less rolling resistance, smoother over bumps, etc. I echo to stay away from a full suspension. Stick with the major brands (Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale, etc) and you will be happy. 2016 models will be heavily reduced now and I bet you will score a sweet deal.
 
simtech said:
To help with the 26er vs 29er debate...what type of terrain are you riding most? If hilly with not a lot of roots and ground obstacles Id stick with the smaller tire. The 29er rolls over things much more easily but on the down side its more tire to turn over going up hills.

I didn't read your OP fully but for $500 or under your best bet would be to go to Dicks sporting goods and get you a diamondback Axis. A step above a wal mart bike with decent components. Trek and specialized will cost your normally in the $800+ range for a entry level bike. Better to buy those at the model year change. That's what I did...I got my rockhopper for $600 with the normal price of $880. My wife got a hardrock for $350 and normal price was $500 if I remember right.
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That's sort of where I was stuck. It will probably be 65% pavement or smooth dirt, 30% tree roots/bumpy trails, 5% truly rough/rocky paths. I have no desire to go on 50mile rides on the road, nor will I be doing time trial descents down a steep grade.

The $500 was a starting point, but I've seen several Trek Marlins with a year or two of light use for $300-400, and a few X Caliber/Rockhopper comps a year or two old for $500-700, depending on specific model and upgrades. I might drop by a few of the local bike shops to try out the frame geometry and see what fits and what deals they have on new/used models in stock.


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Grum.Man said:
If you find something with a Suntour fork, they have a trade in program that makes upgrading more affordable.
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The Trek Marlin 5/6 comes with a Suntour fork of some model, the higher models come with the RockShox 30 which seems to be well-regarded as far as coil shocks go, from my limited research.


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Buy an American made bike. All those listed are Chinese junk. You will out grow a crappy bike very quickly if you are actually riding.

I've got a Cannondale Rize 2 Carbon. It's been a great bike. I've also got some Chinese bikes that I use to beat on. But even those 're $2500 plus bikes.

Bottom line, but more bike than you think you need. Otherwise, you'll end up spending double.
 
I believe most all frames are made in Taiwan for trek and specialized...Carbon for trek is made in the US. However the frame is a small part and likely to never cause problems in what most people can throw at them. The components are what truly matter and every bike pretty much uses the same companies...sram, shimano..and so on. Im pretty hard on my specialized and have yet to have any issues with it and Ive put some miles on it in the trails weekly.

My wife's hardrock has a suntour shock as did my old diamondback. I am not impressed with them in the lower end arena. They have no adjustments and bottom out really easy and think they are mainly for looks. My rockhopper on the other hand came with a rock shox dart 3. Not a bad shock but still low end and can bottom out easily. But...I can adjust dampening and rebound as well as lock the shock out. Again its still entry level but better than the suntour xc entry level shock.

A good hardtail will likely be around the $1k (MSRP) range and don't touch a FS under $1500.

But you have a good plan. Go to the LBS and try some one. Trek's geometry may not feel right for you and specialized might or vice versa. Some LBS has loaner bikes you can try as well. Get some seat time and strike a deal.
 
Craigslist, you'll double your buying power until you figure out what you really want. I picked up a trek all carbon road bike for $700.
 
ifly4fun said:
Craigslist, you'll double your buying power until you figure out what you really want. I picked up a trek all carbon road bike for $700.
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Trust me, I've been scouring the CL ads to see what was out there in the local areas. There was a 2-yr old Trek X Caliber for $500 that would have been great, but it was bright orange, and I just can't be seen riding a bright orange bike as a Sooner, lol.
 
Unit74 said:
Buy an American made bike. All those listed are Chinese junk. You will out grow a crappy bike very quickly if you are actually riding.

I've got a Cannondale Rize 2 Carbon. It's been a great bike. I've also got some Chinese bikes that I use to beat on. But even those 're $2500 plus bikes.

Bottom line, but more bike than you think you need. Otherwise, you'll end up spending double.
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I figured it was just like most hobbies, lol. Buy more than you need so you don't outgrow it in a year. The Cannondale Trail-series seem to be on-par with the Marlin XCal and Specialized Rockhopper Comp stuff. I'll have to look into them. I know nothing of Shimano/XRAM/etc. gear sets, so it's difficult to tell what is even relevant when some don't recommend anything less than "X" even for light use. The only Shimano stuff I own are a couple of fishing reels!
 
SoonerAviator said:
I figured it was just like most hobbies, lol. Buy more than you need so you don't outgrow it in a year. The Cannondale Trail-series seem to be on-par with the Marlin XCal and Specialized Rockhopper Comp stuff. I'll have to look into them. I know nothing of Shimano/XRAM/etc. gear sets, so it's difficult to tell what is even relevant when some don't recommend anything less than "X" even for light use. The only Shimano stuff I own are a couple of fishing reels!
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I would suggest sticking to a budget bike first to see what you like. You may not like riding on the road and want more of a focused off road bike or maybe you don't like off road and want a road focused bike. Also, you will learn what features you like and need and which ones you could care less about. Better to loose a couple hundred dollars on a used bike than to loose 1,000.00 on some high end bike you don't enjoy. As for brands, well they really don't matter. Pick a store you like the best and a bike that fits you best. As someone else said, the frame is about the only difference between the brands and at your level it will have no impact on durability or performance.

With the exception of the fork, even the budget bikes have good enough components to keep you satisfied for a while (I'm talking budget bikes sold in bike stores, not walmart or target). If you like the hard tail and wheel size you choose, you can upgrade the components easy enough. Otherwise sell it after a year or two and upgrade to what you really want.
 
tawood said:
I know this is out of your price range, but if you can swing it... I can't say enough good things about my bike (and it fits easily in my plane):
View attachment 49404

https://www.montaguebikes.com/paratrooper-pro-folding-bike.html

I have seen them used for less than $600, btw.
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I've been kicking around the idea to get a Montague myself, for hauling around in the plane. I'd stay on the cheap end though, since it's use would be basic short range transportation and not trail riding.
 
In any case, the best plan is to try some different bikes out at the LBS. Particularly when choosing wheel size. Frame geometry aside, you're either going to love 29 inch wheels, or hate them. I fall in the latter category, but you want to know exactly where you stand before spending a lot of money.

And it may not be important to you, but if you like doing wheelies, some bikes are easier at it than others. I've ridden Gary Fishers that I can ride like a unicycle. My Raleigh takes some effort but it's doable.
 
Sac Arrow said:
In any case, the best plan is to try some different bikes out at the LBS. Particularly when choosing wheel size. Frame geometry aside, you're either going to love 29 inch wheels, or hate them. I fall in the latter category, but you want to know exactly where you stand before spending a lot of money.

And it may not be important to you, but if you like doing wheelies, some bikes are easier at it than others. I've ridden Gary Fishers that I can ride like a unicycle. My Raleigh takes some effort but it's doable.
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Lol, I'm sure I'll ride a few wheelies just to prove that I can still do it, but it's not going to be quite the same as the GT/Robinson I spent my younger years on. I could hold that bike up with 2-3 fingers at age 14 because it was so light, lol. I see the Gary Fisher name on a lot of the Trek bikes, but I never looked into who he was or what made that edition different from the other ones.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Lol, I'm sure I'll ride a few wheelies just to prove that I can still do it, but it's not going to be quite the same as the GT/Robinson I spent my younger years on. I could hold that bike up with 2-3 fingers at age 14 because it was so light, lol. I see the Gary Fisher name on a lot of the Trek bikes, but I never looked into who he was or what made that edition different from the other ones.
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Fisher

He was the creator of the modern mountain bike as we know it, and the Gary Fisher company went through a few hands before being acquired by Trek.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Lol, I'm sure I'll ride a few wheelies just to prove that I can still do it, but it's not going to be quite the same as the GT/Robinson I spent my younger years on. I could hold that bike up with 2-3 fingers at age 14 because it was so light, lol. I see the Gary Fisher name on a lot of the Trek bikes, but I never looked into who he was or what made that edition different from the other ones.
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The only real difference is in steering and frame geometry. You sit more over the rear tire on Gary Fisher branded Trek bikes and the steering has a more race oriented geometry. Some cant tell a difference but some can. I could tell a slight difference when I bought mine. It makes a 29er feel almost as quick as a 26er in fast left right transitions.
 
Sac Arrow said:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Fisher

He was the creator of the modern mountain bike as we know it, and the Gary Fisher company went through a few hands before being acquired by Trek.
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I figured it was something to that effect, since I've only see the name on the mountain bike-style frames. I've seen quite a few single-speed models, too, which was what confused me a bit as to what the differences in bikes entailed.

Grum.Man said:
The only real difference is in steering and frame geometry. You sit more over the rear tire on Gary Fisher branded Trek bikes and the steering has a more race oriented geometry. Some cant tell a difference but some can. I could tell a slight difference when I bought mine. It makes a 29er feel almost as quick as a 26er in fast left right transitions.
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The frame geometry is certainly something to take note of, assuming I would have a GF and a standard side-by-side to compare them. Either way, that's good info. Thanks!
 
Just an update to this thread, I ended up increasing my purchase price to $800 and bought a 2014 Trek Superfly FS 8 from someone who was getting out of trail riding and wanted a road bike. It has a few upgraded items (tubeless, better chain, metal platforms) but seems to be a very clean bike (barely a scratch). 100MM travel suspension with decent, trail, and lockout modes, hydraulic discs, and through-bolted axles. Original price was around $2,100 I believe, so it’s a mid-model in Trek’s lineup and weighs something like 27lbs. Hopefully this is the last bike purchase I make for a long while.

e0ee251460f8541ca48af8bd31f7ca9f.jpg



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